Bilstein Rear Shocks

Bilstein Shock Installation

Tools Needed

Socket Wrenches	4.5 mm Hex Socket	Scissors	Vice
Scissors Jack	Bottle Jack	Torque Wrench	Penetrating Oil
	2 Hours of Time

With the trunk open, the first step is to gain access to the upper spring mounts. To do this remove the three retainers indicated with red arrows. These retainers are removed by pulling straight up on them. With all three retainers removed the trunk liner can be folded back and out of the way. Now, cut the last half inch of the vents indicated with the blue arrow. When doing this, take care not to cut the wring harness located behind the vents. . Note: Some early model Volvos have no vents precut. If this applies to you, with the back seat folded forward undo the front support panel and fold it back. On station wagons, the front floor panel must be removed. This is accomplished by removing the two bolts on each side and folding it back to release it from its mounting points.

Before you continue, jack up the side of the car you are working on. You need to have a full suspension drop. Click here for jacking instructions. Once full suspension drop has been achieved, Unbolt the two bolts on the upper shock mount. It is held in with two 11 mm bolts. With the two bolts removed place a bottle jack under the rear spring mount and compress the rear trailing arm.

With the shock compressed remove the 18 mm bolt indicated by the white arrow. If the shock is fully compressed, it will slide off its mount. If you can not move the shock, double check and make sure it is all the way compressed. With the shock free from the lower mount it will easily lift out from the top.

If you are reusing your old shock mounts they need to be removed with care from the old shocks. There are two methods to accomplish this. If the top of the shock is only slightly corroded it can be done with a spanner and a hex bit wrench. An offset 15 mm box wrench can be substituted for the spanner. If rust prevents the use of a hex bit, the other option is to clamp the mount in a vice and use a 15 mm socket wrench to free the bolt. Penetrating lube comes in very helpful here as does an external source of heat.

With the mount free inspect it for damage before you continue. Now reinstall the mount on your new shock. This time you have to use a spanner/offset box wrench and hex bit. The new bolt will be 17 mm instead of 15 mm. Using the spanner and a hex bit on a torque wrench, tighten the bolt to 40 Nm/ or 30 lb/ft. Lower the new shock assembly back into place and replace the bottom 18 mm bolt and hand tighten it. As you slowly lower the trailing arm, make sure the top lowers into place. Before you lower the trailing arm the last half inch, slide the upper two bolts into place. Finish lowering the trailing arm and tighten the upper bolts to 40 Nm/ or 30 lb/ft. Now tighten the lower shock mounting bolt to 80 Nm or 59 lb/ft.

Now lower the car to the ground and check all your bolts for proper torque. If all is well you can now start on the other side, which should go much quicker.