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Tools Needed:
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Allen Keys
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Razor
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Pliers
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5/16 Fuel Hose
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Drill and Bits
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8mm Vac Hose
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Wire Crimpers
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Zip Ties
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Start your install by deciding on a mounting location for all of the physical components. If you have a strut tower brace, I would suggest you take advantage of it. Any marina will be able to sell you a universal mount that is meant to be clamped onto a 3/4 - 1 1/4 pipe. I purchased my bracket at West Marine. Using a suitable mount, you will be able to secure both the pump and the actuator to the strut bar. I suggest you locate the system as far from the turbo as possible due to heat soak issues.
With all the parts securely mounted, you can now run the vacuum line from the actuator to an open port on the vacuum tree shown below.
Now turn your attention to the actual water jet. Most of you should be using the .5mm jet. I would suggest you only use a larger jet if you are running over 20psi of boost on a regular basis. To install the jet, remove the plastic return intercooler (IC) pipe. Now drill a hole in the section of pipe shown below. For an M8 tap you should use a 7.5mm bit, but due to the nature of this project, I suggest a 7mm bit. You will want to take care to drill towards the back of the clamping area, while making sure you drill through both metal and plastic. With the hole drilled, tap it and notch the blue hose in the correct location to allow the hose to be reinstalled correctly. The last step here is to run the line from the pump to the jet. The line should go from the jet to the side of the pump with the right angle. I suggest you install some form of protective covering over the line. I used an 8mm silicone line for this job.
Now, comes the wiring. The 2 small wires go to the actuator. The polarity does not matter, so all you have to do is trim the wire to the correct length, crimp on the provided connectors and plug them in. Next locate the black and red heavy gauge wires. The black gets wired directly to the negative battery terminal, while the red hooks directly to the positive. The only wire that is left is a medium gauge purple wire. This wire needs to be a positive ignition on. The easiest source for this is the ignition coils positive terminal as shown below. Just make sure to keep the positive and negative wires separated to prevent a short. The last step of wiring is to mount the relay on the upper engine mount arm, and wire loom any loose wire. With everything neat and clean, now install the 15 amp fuse.
Now, all that is left is to locate a source for you to store the water/methanol. Aquamist suggests using the windscreen washer tank. I was against this due to purity issues, as well as size. If you do use the washer tank, all you have to do is drain the tank and tap in a 1/4 inch barbed fitting. Then using the provided line, hook up the straight fitting on the pump to your barb on the tank. To test the system, remove any connection on the actuator to open the system. With the switch open, and the car's ignition in position II the pump will come on if everything is connected correctly. If you are willing to give up a little trunk space, a trunk mounted tank is a great way to go. An aluminum tank like the one below can be purchased at any kart shop. If you use a trunk mounted tank, I recommend you install an in-line check valve, or a primer pump as Aquamist suggests.
