The path I chose to route the harness was not a direct one. I wanted to keep the harness away from engine heat as much as possible while still maintaining a factory look. I chose to route it up and around the battery to the left side of the car, then around the right side of the strut tower and finally under the cowling to the fuse box. Drilling a 5/16" hole in the left side of the fuse box allowed the wires to be run through it and into the passenger compartment with ease. Once the harness is inserted into the fuse box and it has been pulled all the way through, seal the hole in the fuse box where the wire harnesses go through it with black RTV silicone sealer from both sides of the box. This will ensure no wind noise getting into the passenger compartment and maintain weatherproof design of the fuse box.
Not to get the cart ahead of the horse here but make sure the cowl cover is removed so you can rout the wires under it and into the fuse box. The cowl cover is removed by taking off the wiper arm assemblies, removing the Torx fasteners, and disconnecting the hose clamps that hold the drain hoses onto the cowl (2 total).
This is the only visible sign on the outside of the car that there is a radar/laser detector present.
Mounting the rear radar pod was very easy. The rear bumper under the right side of the car behind the bumper cover offers a stealthy mounting location away from the exhaust system that exits on the left side of the car.
Two possibilities exist for running the rear radar harness into the trunk. One: you may drill an extra hole in the trunk and use the special nut assembly to route it through the hole and seal it. Two: slice a hole in the right side body plug, route the harness through it and seal the plug with black RTV. I chose the latter since I don't like drilling extra holes when a perfectly good one exists from the factory. Here you can see the body plug with the harness run through it and behind the trunk rear trim panel.
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