Remove as
much oil from the gearbox as possible before opening the casing.
Put the gearbox on a bench or kitchen table with the clutch
bell housing facing down. Use a driver to remove the split
pin so you can remove the small shifter lever from the gearbox.
Next
unbolt all the 12 mm hex bolts which fix the case split.
After
that use a rubber hammer, a piece of wood or a metal bar (with care) to
evenly loosen the top casing from the bottom. There
are several places on each corner of the gearbox where you can apply
some force to split the casing. Make
sure the force is applied evenly!!
While
lifting the upper half of the casing try to gently rotate the
black shifter lever counter clockwise until the casing comes off.
Now
locate the only 12mm hex bolt in the internals. The bolt is holding a
metal bracket. Remove the bolt and the bracket.
In some
cases, with older type geargoxes, instead of a metal bracket
there will be a cast alloy part. If this is the case be as careful as
you can since the alloy part can break when loosening the bolt.
Next
locate a spring at the bottom of the shifter mechanism and look for a
straight extention of the spring which is held behind a nipple. Move
the extension over the nipple so the spring tension will be released,
next remove the shifter assembly by turning it counter clockwise until
it
is free of obstructions.
After
that the long metal lever bar can be taken out. In the middle of
the bar there is a metal pin. With some gearboxes this pin sits loose
and can be taken out after which the bar almost falls out of it's
position. With some gearboxes the pin sits tight and can hardly be
removed. In this case try to remove the bar using gentle force while
moving it around a bit. Use
care not to bend anything!
The next
step I would advice to get an extra pair of hands. This can be done
alone but it is difficult. The next step the 3 gear packs
need to be taken out. Try
to lift the 3 packs straight up while maintaining their position. Make
sure to lift straight else the shift fork shafts might lock in their
sleeves preventing the packs to lift any further. Use gentle force.
Don't stress anything. The gear packs aren't light either. Once the
assy is free of the sleeves you can take the packs apart and put them
aside. Leave the shift forks in their position and grouped
with
it's gear pack (I didn't..) or take pictures of the situation before
taking things apart.
Next take
out the diff gear and put it in a clamp.
I used
rubber surfaced clamps to prevent damage to the diff gear.
Next
step the bearings need to come off. A special bearing puller
is needed, space behind the bearings is very
limited and your average K-Mart puller won't do. On this
picture borrowed from Michiel Nouwens you can see the type of puller
best used
After
removing the bearings and storing them in a safe place the bolts can be
removed from the diff
And the
diff can be removed from the gear by gently tapping it out using a
rubber hammer. Now degrease the bolts you just removed.
Unpacked
the Quaife diff from it's box. The stock open diff is on the
right.
After
degreasing the gear I installed the Quaife diff in the gear and
used 4 bolts to cross tighten the diff in the gear. Evenly tighten the
bolts. Make sure the diff goes in straight else it might lock itself in
the gear before it is fully engaged. Don't use any force or large
tools. Just tighten the bolts lightly. After the diff is in
place remove the 4 bolts again and apply loctite to them. I have used
mild thread locker 243.
Put the
bolts back in and cross tighten them to 65 Nm - 48 lb-ft.
Put the
bearings back on, same special tool is needed. Again don't slam
anything out of line, be gentle.
Next put
everthing back in to the casing in the reversed order. Take
good notice of how the gearpacks need to go back in. Remeber that the
shift fork shafts need to go in as straight as possible. Don't force.
Shifter
mechanism in place.
Don't forget the magnet!!
Clean this surface on both the casting halfs. Make sure all
the old
silicone is removed. Use mild sand paper, I used a sanding block and
sponge. Degrease well, apply silicone and close the box. Before
closing the gearbox make sure the shift fork levers on the shifter
mechanism are all in their middle position.
While
closing the box move the black shifter lever in the top casing all the
way counter clockwise until it blocks. Align the top casing with the
shifter shaft and the diff bearing and slide in back on. At some point
you can feel some resistance at the black lever. While lowering the
casing at this point the leaver should turn clockwise back in to the
shifter mechanism. Fix the 12 mm hex bolts some something
near 30 Nm - 22 lb-ft
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