Vacuum Mold Building

Tools Needed:
Razor Autobody Filler
Plywood
Sandpaper
Paper Towels WD40

Creating a good mold is the key to any form of casting.  In vacuum forming with composites this is especially true. Traditionally molds are created in wax, plastic, or plaster and later in metal if large production runs are intended. Due to cost and its ability to capture fine detail, plaster is one of the most common mold materials.  For medium sized low detail parts, I prefer autobody filler instead.  The filler has a faster curing time, and is more forgiving to rough handling.  In the next steps I will outline the process of creating molds suitable for everything from valve covers to dash trim.  

Mold release

For any parts with paint or a finish, start by applying mold release to the parts entire surface.  For non-finished parts such as airboxes, cam covers, or other plastic parts, start by applying a liberal amount of WD40. Let the WD40 sit for a few minutes then dab up any excess.  

apply auto body filler

With your mold release applied you can now start mixing your filler.  Simply apply the filler to the surface or item you want to replicate.  Extend the filler out at least 1" past the edges.  Using your fingers do your best to assure there are no airspaces.  Now wait 10-30 minutes depending how you potted your filler.  

Trim filler

Once the filler has dried, the newly created mold should lift off with almost no effort.  Inspect the mold for any flaws which should be addressed.  In the above picture you can see the "U" in TURBO did not completely transfer. This is easy to fix by simply applying a little filler to the area and re-pressing it to the original piece.  

mount the mold on a backer board
 
Once you have a clean negative mold, you need to mount it on a flat piece of wood.  This assures when you draw vacuum it does not crush or distort.  To mount the mold, lay down a thick bed of filler on a sheet of plywood 1" larger than the mold itself.  Next, press the mold into the layer of filler with the face up.  
sand down any high spots
 
Once the mold mounted and dry, sand down any high spots that may cause your fabric to bridge in the vacuum bag. In the above mold you can see where I sanded off the higher edges especially at the bottom.  Now is also the time to lightly sand any places you had to touch up, or any other rough spots.  220 grit seems to be about the best grit for this.  In the next how to I will talk about how to build a budget vacuum bag system, and tips on how to best use your molds.  

Project S60
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