This is a basic tutorial giving
a general description on how to replace
the outer CV boot on your FWD Volvo. This particular documentation was
done on a 1998 70 series but most of the others are similar.
Start by removing the CV joint
nut which is 36mm. I used air tools for
this job but if they are unavailable break the nut loose with the tire
on the ground and use a 1/2" breaker bar or equivalent.
Next remove
your 2-15mm caliper to spindle bolts. Then remove your lower balljoint
pinch bolt. The bolt is 13mm and the nut on the back is 15mm from the
factory.
Now take your unbolted cailper
and either bungee cord it to
the spring or lay it around the backside of the rotor. It doesn't
really matter how you support it, just don't leave it hanging/dangling
by the hose.
Now that the caliper is out of
the way take a pry bar and pry downward
on the control arm releasing the balljoint from the spindle.
You can now push your CV joint
out of the wheel bearing splines by
pulling the spindle towards you slightly and pushing the joint out the
back. Sometimes the joint can be seized in the splines. If so install
your 36mm nut back on the end of the joint making it flush with the
end. Now you can tap it out with a hammer. The nut on the end keeps you
from messing up the threads or the end of the joint. The above picture
shows the released joint from the hub.
I'm working on the RH
(passenger) side of the vehicle so you have to remove your carrier
bearing bolts which are 12mm.
If
this was the LH (drivers) side, you would just use a pry bar to pop the
joint out of the transmission.
Now just grab
a hold of the entire axle shaft, slide it out of the
transmission and out the RH fenderwell. Take the whole assembly to a
work bench. A vise is pretty much essential for the next steps.
This is a very basic outer boot
kit with 2 clamps a boot and some
grease. Volvo sells a kit (which is very nice) it includes both inner
and outer boots with all the goodies but is a bit on the pricey side. I
usually do both and would recommend going that route, however for this
job were going the cost effective route and just doing the outer. This
kit cost about $20 or less.
Clamp the axle shaft in a vise,
take a pair of side cutters(dikes) and
cut your clamps off. Now take a razor blade and slice the boot up the
middle end to end and discard. Clean up all the grease you can with
shop rags and wipe the joint clean.
Now with the axle shaft clamped
tightly in the vise with the joint
hanging freely, locate the snap ring on the inside of the joint(which
can be a bit tricky). This ring sits in a groove on the shaft and locks
the joint to the shaft. Now use a pair of retaining ring(snap ring)
pliers and spread the ring open.
Next while using your one hand
to spread the ring open with your
pliers. Take a hammer(preferably brass) and smack the joint off the
shaft. Once the snap ring has released from the groove it will stay
open and you can continue to tap the joint off the shaft without the
need for your snap ring pliers.
Now clean the old grease out of
the joint as best as possible and take
your bag or tube of grease. Cut off the end and stuff it down inside
the hole in the center as shown above. Squeeze your grease into the
joint until it starts to push out past the balls in the cage (as shown)
basically packing the joint full,it probably won't take all the grease
in the bag/tube. Don't throw away the left over grease in the bag/tube.
You want to squeeze the rest of that into the boot later.
Now
take your little clamp and the boot and slide them onto the shaft.
Next take your newly greased
joint install your 36mm nut on the end
"flush with the end" and slide it onto the shaft. Rotate it slightly
back and forth, you should be able to feel the splines interlock. Once
there, slightly tap the end of the joint and make sure it is sliding
down the shaft. DO NOT BEAT THE JOINT ON. If it doesn't seem like it's
going tap a little harder but don't force it or cross the splines.
Don't worry about the snap ring as it should spread open once you slide
the joint onto the shaft.
Tap the joint down until the
snap ring is seated in the groove. I paint
marked mine for a bit easier viewing here, but the ring ends should be
almost touching each other if it is down far enough and locked on the
groove in the shaft.
Now take your extra grease and
squeeze it into the boot. Slide the boot
over the joint, place/position your new clamps and pinch them down. I
have a special tool for this but a medium to large pair of side
cutters(dikes) will work fine as shown above.
Now
it's time to
re-assemble, basically it is reverse procedure. I do like to add anti
seize to the carrier bearing,the balljont spindle socket &
pinch
bolt and the inside of the wheel bearing splines as shown below.
This
makes for ease of disassembly the next time around if you ever need to
replace something else in the future.
The below picture shows the
finished job. Oh yes, the picture
doesn't show it but put some grease on your steering stops while your
there and clean up all the residual grease that was slung around by the
torn boot.
