Start
by removing the 2 T30 torx screws for the top spark plug cover and
remove it. Then remove the 13mm nut holding the power steering line
bracket and lightly loosen the 16mm flare nut on the pump pressure
line. Now rotate that line upward and on top of the plug cover and snug
nut back up to hold it's position.
Next
I like to remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the pump reservoir in
place and move it aside. Remove the 10mm bolt securing the top half of
the belt cover (where my finger is pointing). Lift straight up and out
of the way.
Now
with a floor jack and a block of wood on top. Slide it under the oil
pan and as closely to the corners/edges as possible. Do not dead center
it on the oil pan as the middle is the weakest point. Use a 2x4 or such
that will span the entire pan side to side. Apply light pressure with
the jack, now go back up top and remove your 6-15mm bolts (2 nuts)
securing the mount to the frame and the motor. Remove the mount and set
aside.
I'm removing the center mounting bracket on the motor for ease of
pictures. This does not have to be removed when doing the job but I
recommend it. You will need to remove 4-13mm bolts and the one mounting
stud(red dot next to it) in order to get the upper bolt removed. This
bracket is dowel pinned so you may have to wiggle it a bit once the
bolts are removed.
Now
use a long 14mm wrench and release the serpentine belt tensioner,
remove the belt. With the belt out of the way you can remove the lower
half of the timing cover by simply pulling out and upward (it slides
into grooves on the rear cover)
Remove
the right front wheel and remove the 2 bolts holding the plastic
side cover in place. Take the side cover and flex it down under the
front of the car to expose the crank pulley.
Now
reinstall the spark plug cover with the timing mark cutouts and with a
30mm socket rotate the crank and bring the motor up on TDC. The cam
marks are very difficult to see (yes they are there) they are tiny hash
marks so I paint marked them for this documentation. Align the cam
gears straight up with the 2 cutouts on the underside of the forward
spark plug cover. With it all in time go back down and remove the
4-10mm bolts and the 30mm crank pulley nut. (An impact gun is
recommended for this).
With
the pulley bolts removed go back up top and with a nice size pry
bar. Slide it between the back of the crank pulley and on the front of
the timing belt tensioner. Pry towards you and the pulley will be
released. This is not a good picture but the dark shadow in the middle
is the pry bar.
With
the crank pulley removed I paint marked the crank timing mark that
should be aligned with the pointer on the oil pump housing. If your
timing marks are not aligned you may re-install the 30mm nut and rotate
the assembly into time again.
Now
I like to pull the belt snug on the intake side and recommend you
lock your cam gears together. I'm using a cheap universal tool (and
actually my favorite one) to do such.
Next
you want to loosen your 12mm bolt holding the tensioner in place.
I just remove it all together as I ALWAYS replace the MANUAL tensioner
with every job. This is an absolute MUST on the S40/V40!
I
remove the top forward spark plug cover again and remove the belt.
Install your new tensioner loosely and then the belt. Slide the belt
around the crank first, working the belt counter clockwise around your
gears and idler pulley's keeping it taught on the intake side. This can
be a bit trying sometimes and it will be a tight fit. Once the new belt
is on remove the cam locking device and your ready to adjust the
tensioner.
With
the 12mm bolt lightly snugged use a 6mm allen wrench and rotate
the eccentric clockwise to a full stop. Return counter clockwise until
the pointer reaches the ambient temp the motor is at. I HIGHLY
recommend doing this job with an ambient motor temp of approx. 70
degrees F. At this temperature the pointer should be about centered.
The chart above gives you the variables. When you have the pointer
where it belongs lock down your 12mm bolt. If you miss your point on
the return direction you must start over again and go to full clockwise
stop then return to your point and lock down the bolt. This process is
also a bit tricky at times. Now with the
new belt on reassemble most and rotate the crank 2 full revolutions and
re-check all marks. If all is good reassemble the rest and done!