There are several reasons you may need to complete this modification. If you own a 1997 or 1998 Volvo 850/S70 there is a good chance you will run into the dreaded EFI-442 EFI-446 EFI-448 check engine light. This modification will buy you some time. Deleting the SAS signal will allow the car to adjust fuel trim even though the SAS pump is not working. Whatever your reason for deleting the SAS system, this guide will walk you through it with images and video. Remember: TAMPERING WITH FACTORY EMISSIONS SYSTEMS IS A VIOLATION OF FEDERAL AND STATE LAW

Before you start, you need to understand a few things. First, this will lower engine compression slightly as you are removing material from the chambers. It is almost an insignificant amount on the order of less than a cubic centimeter (cc), but it is something to consider. Next, you need to be very careful when polishing next to the valve seats. If possible, you should polish the chambers before having the seats re-cut. In this DIY, the head already had a 3-angle valve job, so I had to be less aggressive than I usually would be.
Finally, you may want to measure chamber volume. The easiest way to do this is with a piece of glass with a hole in it. The glass will prevent measurement errors caused by the water level meniscus. Start by installing an old spark plus finger tight. Then lay back in the 4 valves. If the engine is in good shape, the valves should be water tight. If not, you will definitely need to re-cut the valve seats. Using a piece of glass larger than your chamber, fill the chambers with water from a pipette through the hole in the glass. Be sure you keep track of how much water you fill the chamber with. This will give you your pre-porting volume. Repeat this step for each cylinder using the same spark plug.

Starting with a new Koni sport adjustable shock, cut a slice in the lower spring seat. Cut it on the side that has the small hole in it. I used a chop saw, but a hack saw (etc) will work also. Cut right up to the little hole. Using a small disc grinder, grind a shallow grove around the seat just under the weld. Don't go too deep or you will score the actual strut body! You are not trying to cut all the way through the seat!

Remove as much oil from the gearbox as possible before opening the casing. Put the gearbox on a bench or kitchen table with the clutch bell housing facing down. Use a driver to remove the split pin so you can remove the small shifter lever from the gearbox. Next unbolt all the 12 mm hex bolts which fix the case split. After that use a rubber hammer, a piece of wood or a metal bar (with care) to evenly loosen the top casing from the bottom.

What is porting? Porting is the process of opening up an air pathway on an engine. Porting is done as a way of increasing engine efficiency and output. If you look at the image below you will see two intake runners. The one on the right as been ported while the one on the left has not. In another guide we will walk through the steps to flowing a head and advanced porting techniques such as radiusing.

Before you do anything to the car you are going to need to get a 2.33" outside diameter pipe. http://www.onlinemetals.com/ is where I purchesed mine and had it turned down by a machine shop for an exact fit. You will also need to drill a hole the size of the inside diameter of your flange in your pipe where the flange is going to be welded.

With the muffler out of the way proceed to remove the sway bar from its home. The best advice here is to wiggle the sway bar out as much as you can. Eventually you will figure out that it is the driver’s side transverse arm is the culprit in blocking the exit of the sway bar. Pulled on the transverse arm and wiggle the bar out.

Remove only the rear sub frame bolts and only loosen the front sub frame bolts. Slowly rotate each nut one full turn. One full turn on the rear left bolt, then one full turn on the front left bolt, then one full turn the front right bolt and then finally one full turn on the rear right bolt. Slowly lower the rear of the sub frame using the jack. Repeat the process four times. The front sub frame bolts are only rotated 4 full turns that’s it. Once the fronts have been loosened proceed to turn the rears only one full turn.

The first step in replacing the struts is to raise the vehicle and open the hood. Instructions on how to safely raise and support the vehicle can be found in the repair section of the site. With the vehicle raised and supported you are ready to begin. Remember to never remove the strut retaining nut until the spring is compressed.

Start by following the instructions on Bay 13 for wheel and rotor removal. At this point do not remove the caliper. Hang it from a coat hanger or support it on a box until you are ready to install the new caliper.