Step 5 - Running it into the trunk.
Once you run it under the seat backs, lift up the little flap (you may need to take off some quick-release plastic screws in order to pull the flap up). By running it under there, it allows you to run it virtually anywhere in the trunk without it being seen until you want it to be seen.
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Other than that, that is pretty much it, just hook that power wire into your amp.
Step 6 - Running the ground wire.
Since all of the metal in the car is grounded, you just need to find a piece of bare metal that you can secure the ground wire to. I used the location below, which is just to the passenger's side of the drivers side tail-light assembly when you open that little carpet flap that covers the light assembly. There is a screw in there that I just scraped off the existing paint (as to make a good, solid connection) and screwed it on tight, Although connecting it to any bare metal in the trunk should work as it is all grounded.
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Step 7 - The "pouch"
I call this the pouch because there is actually a fair sized space in there in which to store stuff (such as a line level convertor and wire or something) Just thought I'd point it out. (There is one under each rear light)
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Step 8 - Hooking up a "remote" wire to power on/off the amp with the stock radio.
I tapped off of the control wire to the power antenna motor to get a remote wire, as all that is required is a 12V source that turns on and off with the radio. So I spliced the solid red wire and connected it to the remote connection on my amp. (the red wire with the green strip is constant 12V so it will not work for the purpose of a remote lead)
You will have to remove more of those little plastic quick connect screws and pull back on the carpeting and insulation to get access to the antenna motor
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Here is a pic of the splice.
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And this is how my install turned out. Nothing is permanantly mounted yet, but I will more than likely mount it to the side of the trunk on the Drivers side right in front of the tail light cluster.
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As far as hooking up the actual audio cables to the amp, if you have an aftermarket head unit just connect the RCA cables to the sub-outs and run the wire on the passenger side of the car using the same instructions for running it in the interior. Running it on the passenger side helps to eliminate any noise that might bleed over from the power wire.
If you have a stock deck, then I recommend making an adapter to get RCA lines
from you stock deck using the amp DIN connector on the back of the stock deck.
See these instructions that I made for making your own "home-made"
adapter using less than $5 in Radioshack parts.
How
to get RCA pre-outs from a factory deck
Another route to go is to use a speaker line level convertor and splice off of your rear speakers and the convertor will convert them into an RCA signal, but from my experience using both the home made adapter and a line level convertor, there is a noticably better sound/clarity with the adapter. Plus lower and cleaner bass.
And finally, as far as where to put the sub, just experiment with different locations. I would recommend having it as close to the back seats as possible and pointing towards the rear of the car, as I (and many others) have found that it is much louder in this position.
Hope this helps, and if you have any further questions, just ask one of the VolvoSpeed staff and we will be glad to help you.