CVVT hub removable, install, and set up on late model Volvos. 

Turbo rebuilds are fairly simple, it is just time consuming and requires your undivided attention. Keep in mind this process will work on 13G, 15G, 16T, 18T, and 19T turbos in the TD04 and TD05 Series. But Different part numbers would be used for the 16T, 18T, and 19T because they are a supper back. Depending on the shop you get it balanced at you can have this repair done in 2-3 hours for the experienced mechanic and, 4-5 hours for the novice mechanic. Keep in mind the turbo shop will need 10-60 minutes of this time for the balancing.

In this example a Forge Blow Off Valve was used. The best place to order these for your vehicle in the United States seems to be directly from Forge on Amazon. Volvo Blow Off Valves From Forge. You should service this kind of Blow Off Valve annualy to keep it properly functioning. This involves cleaning and lubricating the internal components.

The problem wth replacing your valve stems is nobody will have a puller. They can order you one for around $50, but this is something you will not use very often. The solution is to make your own tool. You can do this with Stanley Part Number: 264764. Or purchase here: Stanley Fatmax Plyers. The key is to cut off the tips of the plyers as shown above. The best way to do this if you do not have a cut off saw, is a bandsaw or a hacksaw in a pinch. With both tips cut off you should have something like what is shown above. Before you continue, slip an old valve back in so you do no crush the valve stems. There is a fair amount of force required to remove these.

Seafoam like Techron or any other valve cleaner or additive should only be used every 10-15k miles.  Over the course of normal driving carbon deposits itself on the back of the valves and piston tops.  Using a cleaner through the intake can help control these deposits, which can cause a loss in fuel economy and performance.  Below you can see two pistons removed from an engine with 30,000 miles. The piston on the left is from a cylinder treated with Seafoam.

The question has come up about replacing the fuel pump relay on the 850s. There are many reasons you might want to do this. If your fuel pump is cutting out, or if you are having a hard time starting the car. Age is another thing to consider. My car is a 1995 and I just put a new fuel pump, level sender, fuel pressure regulator, and now the relay. I did this mainly for piece of mind.. The fuel pump relay is red and numbered 103. The Volvo part number for the relay is 9434225. To gain access to the 103 relay, you have to take the top cover off of the fuse box that is in the engine compartment. Remove the four 25 torx screws, see the green arrows. Once the torx screws are out just lift the lid and you will see the relay.

Manual Tensioner Adjustment

There are several items that need to be disconnect at the top of the radiator so that it will drop out the bottom. When it drops out the bottom the intercooler will come with it. The condensor (in the front) will stay in place, don't try to drop it down with the radiator and the intercooler. So up top you need to disconnect the coolant hose from the top. Disconnect the transmission cooling line on the left side and the oil cooling line on the right. Remove the intercooler hose thats on the center top. There are a couple of bolts that hold the plastic housing to the radiator that have to be removed. The red arrows are pointing to 10mm bolts that have to be removed. Just below the 10mm bolts are smaller 8mm bolts that also need to be removed

The procedures for replacing the seals for the turbo return line are the same as on the 850 and S/V/C 70. The problem with the XC models is that there is a front differential in the way. The new O ring seal is green in color, so don't let anyone sell you the old orange colored ones. The newer green ones are a different compound and last longer before deforming enough to allow oil to leak out. You also need the green paper gasket that is behind the 30torx screws. Note I said 30 torx screws, most of the other cars have a hex bolt but for some reason Volvo has decided to make these 30 torx screws/bolts. I use a ¼ with a swivel for the front bolt and the back one is a lot easier, and no swivel is needed, although a long extension is also needed.

The 850 and X70 use the vacuum created on the intake manifold from the engine running to open or shut components on the engine. The majority of the lines are made of hard black plastic that may be wrapped in rubber hose for protection, the connection points are almost always rubber elbows. What happens in time is the rubber becomes soft, mushy, and may open up a hole. When a hole is opened, un-metered air is taken into the intake manifold causing a lean condition in the combustion chamber. The oxygen sensor will detect the lean condition (lean on fuel) and the Engine Control Module (ECM) will make adjustments to the air/fuel ratio. Adjustments can only be made so far before the adjustment tables are pegged and a code is set (EFI-232/231) and the check engine light is turned on. The other side of the "Mushy" elbows is that the elbow just gets soft and mushy and closes up, not allowing the vacuum line to do what ever job it's suppose to.