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Mitsubishi TD04HL-15G Rebuild Instructions

Published on January 11, 2012 by MattXXL

Before you start you will need to collect the folowing parts:


1 K5T09671 CBV Diaphragm
1 49170-14020 Bolt
1 05634-00620 Self-Locking Nut
1 34336-04100 Oil Pipe Gasket
1 49173-22500 Insert
1 49173-22200 Deflector
1 49177-21601 Thrust Bearing
1 49135-42200 Lock Nut
1 49177-22200 O-Ring
1 49170-23201 Snap Ring
1 49183-19300 Plate
1 49172-23200 Piston Ring
1 49177-21220 Bearing (x2 in Bag)
1 49177-23100 Ring
1 49183-42400 Thrust Ring
1 49177-22100 O-Ring
1 49183-42100 Thrust Sleeve
1 Gallon Of Coolant
1 Oil Filter
6 Liters Of Oil


You can get all of these parts in a kit like the one shown here: Turbo Rebuild Kit Whatever kit you opt for assure it is a quality OEM kit. IE MHI or Melett
You may also want to pick up a turbo drain line seal kit. IPD sells them for just a few dollars here: Drain Line Kit

Now collect the following tools:


7mm Socket
8mm Socket
10mm Socket
12mm 12 Point Socket
13mm Socket
17mm Socket
Flat Head Screw Drivers
5mm Allen
Small Pick Set
Large Snap Ring Pliers
Rubber Mallet
Drain Pan
New Vacuum Line
2 Jack stands




turbo rebuild parts
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Start out with disconnecting the battery. Jack up the car and remove the passenger wheel so you have more light to work with. Insert the Jack-stands underneath the sub-frame. Do not work under the car without jack stands!!! Remove the airbox and air inlet tube. Now remove the upper intercooler pipe, and the turbo heat shield. You will now have access to remove the cotter pin from the wastegate arm.


turbo oil line removal
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Now go under the car and un-do the 10mm nut that holds the 2 oil lines together You will need the 10mm wrench to hold the upper bolt.  Use the 5mm Allen to remove the two Allen bolts holding the oil return line to the turbo. I threaded the two bolts back into the turbo so I would not lose them. Remove the oil drain line. (You will check this later for any corrosion.)  Next with your drain pan nearby, crack open the radiator drain and drain your coolant.  Now back at the top Use your 17mm socket to remove the oil feed line from the turbo. Remove the banjo bolt and both copper washers and place them somewhere safe together.


remove water line
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Now remove the coolant drain hose with your 17mm. If you do not want drips of coolant in your drive way or garage use your drain pan to catch the residual coolant that will drip.


remove compressor housing
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Now is a good time to address any fluids which may have spilled, or any excess oil on the turbo. Wipe everything down and continue to the next step. Next loosen the hose clamp on the coolant feed line.


oil leaking from turbo
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Now with all of those lines loose You can focus on the center band clamp.  Use your 10mm socket to loosen the nut. Once its loose use a long flat head to hold the top of the bolt in the holder and continue removing the nut.


v band turbo clamp
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Once the nut is off the bolt will come out and you may need to lightly tap the clamp loose. Now take the time to remove all of the vacuum lines. You may wish to mark them with colored tape so you can but them back easier when you are done. If any are damage now is the time to replace them. Now with everything off and loose lightly tap on the compressor housing with the rubber mallet to release the cartridge from the exhaust housing. Once it pops out, you can slide out the coolant feed line and route the turbo out of the engine bay.


oily turbo
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Make sure you have rags in the exhaust housing, and in the Intercooler inlet to prevent foreign objects from entering while you are at your bench.

Lay some rags out so you have a clean work surface.  Lay out all of your new parts (DO NOT REMOVE THEM FROM THEIR BAGS UNTIL YOU ARE READY TO USE THEM)  Start By removing the rubber intercooler sleeve  Next remove your waste gate by removing the 2 bolts  Now place the turbo inlet down and remove the large snap-ring holding the compressor in the housing.

Now is the perfect time to get the housing and compressor into the parts washer. Clean them till they are oil and sediment free.  If you want to clean the compressor wheels I suggest a red scotch brite cloth. That will not remove any metal from the wheels. No not use a wire brush.


turbo cleaning
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Once that it done sit down at your bench with your compressor and start the dis-assembly.  Mark your wheels with the sharpie, as a reference when you put them back in. Making sure the exhaust marks go all the way down to the main compressor body because the cover under the wheel gets replaced. You don’t need to do this but I figured It would help with the balancing.  Now use your 12mm 12 point on the exhaust side and the 8mm on the intake side.  The 8mm Lock nut is Reverse Thread  Holding the 12mm still remove the 8mm Reverse Thread nut.  The intake wheel will slide off easily now.  Now lightly tap the shaft with your rubber mallet. the exhaust wheel will pop out. Most of the time the bearing will slide out with the shaft. Note the way the bearing sits on the shaft, one side is tapered the other side is stepped, you will see the difference.  Set them aside and now remove the Snap-ring on the intake side.  Now use the two flat head screwdrivers to lift out the Plate, the center sleeve and deflector will come out with it.  Remove the inner O-Ring with your picks  Now lift out the thrust ring  Pull out the thrust spacer  Noting which side is down (Tapered or Stepped) Pull out the bearing  Inside the housing you will see the rings.


rebuild turbo
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These are the HARDEST step in the entire process. If you don’t think you can replace these leave them alone. If not, see if your turbo shop can do it for you.  Now Clean the cartridge up good getting all of the gunk out, making sure you blow it clean with air at the end.  Now its time to re-assemble.  Every thing should get a nice coating of 20-50 oil before you install the new parts.  Insert your New bearing  Place your New thrust spacer on top of the bearing  Insert the New Brass Thrust Ring  Install the New O-Ring.


mitsubishi turbo rebuild
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Now take your new Deflector, new Thrust Sleeve, new Clip, and new Plate and assemble them exactly as the old set up was. Taking a photo of the turbo before you start is a good idea as it will help you rememebr what went where.


alomost done
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Slide the new assembly into place.  Install the new snap-Ring  Flip the housing over and install the new bearing.  Replace the clip on the shaft. Place the new cover on and Insert the shaft.  The shaft should just click into place.


reverse order volvo turbo swap
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Now align your marks you made with the sharpie.  Install your Intake wheel, lining it up with your mark.  Once it is aligned You can put on your new Lock Nut, tightening it to 2 ft lbs. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN YOU WILL SNAP THE SHAFT!  Your compressor cartridge is now assembled.


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You don’t need to put it back in the housing yet because the turbo shop only need the cartridge to balance it.  Balancing is highly recommended!  Your turbo spins at anywhere from 100,000 150,000 RPM.  Any reputable turbo shop should be able to balance it for $30 to $75.  There are also places that you can ship your cartridge to get balanced they usually charge the same plus shipping. 

Now with your freshly balanced cartridge you are ready to put it back together.  Install your cartridge into the intake housing, keep in mind there is a alignment pin.  Pop in your new Snap-Ring  Install Your new CBV  Re-Install the waste gate actuator  Re-Install the coolant feed line  Now back out to the car.  Line up the turbo with the alignment pin in the exhaust housing.  Slip the coolant feed line back into the rubber hose  Using light pushing push the housings together.  Install the clamp with your new bolt and lock nut.  Tighten the clamp on the coolant feed line.  Go underneath the car install the new O-Ring on the drain pipe and slip it into place.  Install your new Gasket at the top of the pipe and thread in your Allen bolts holding it in place.  Tighten the 10mm nut and bolt that holds the two oil lines together and tighten down the two Allen bolts for the return line.  Use a Long Funnel and Prime the Oil inlet hole.  Install the oil feed line cleaning up the banjo bolt threads and copper washers first.  Install the coolant return line cleaning up the banjo bolt and copper washers.  Fill the Coolant Reservoir.  Do an oil and filter change.  Re-install the Intercooler piping  Install the new vacuum hose.  Clean Your PTC  Re-install the inlet piping  Install your Air Box  Reconnect the battery  Do not install the heat shield until later, it makes it easier to see leaks.  Put all your other odds and ends on. 

Start the car.  Run it for 30 sec.  Shut it off and check your oil level, Add if needed. Re-start the car  Let it run, Keeping your eye in the temp gauge  Add coolant when needed, keeping in mind you will have some air pockets that need to work their way out.  Check for leaks while the car is running.  If everything is tight and installed correct you will be leak free.  After about 20 minutes, take her for a test drive.  Go slow and don’t stray far from your house or shop.  Try to avoid letting the car into boost, just let everything flow thru for now.  Give the turbo some break in time before heavy boosting.  Keep in mind this process will work on 13G, 15G, 16T, 18T, and 19T turbos in the TD04 and TD05 Series.  Different part numbers would be used for the 16T, 18T, and 19T because they are a supper back.  the 13G and 15G use the same flat back kit.


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