Here is a simple write-up for troubleshooting battery drain issues on your Volvo. Recently I went on vacation, when I returned my battery was dead. I thought this might be a good time to document how to track down battery drain issues with some pictures. Keep in mind I did this with no clue as to what was causing this drain. Remember your battery needs to be in good health before you can start this trouble shooting process.

Before you start, disconnect the negative battery cable for safety and block the front wheels, before jacking up the rear. With the rear of the car jacked up, support it with jack stands. Now remove the floor board to open up the area to access the top of the fuel pump and sender. Unbolt the cover over the fuel pump and sender. Unhook the electrical connectors so they can go through the hole when dropping the tank. Next, unscrew the gas cap so you can lower the tank. Line up a floor jack to support the gas tank when you unbolt the supports. There are 3 bolts that hold up the metal band supports. Unbolt them and use your floor jack to slowly lower the tank while guiding the fuel filler tube as you slowly lower the tank. Move the metal bands out of the way and lower the tank. Make sure your electrical connectors come through the holes without getting hung up.

We have all been there. You are almost finished with a manifold swap when you remember you have a broken off stud that has to be removed. Or maybe you purchased a "refurb" engine that was rebuilt on a Friday and it has a stud broken off below the surface. Don't worry, there are repair options. First, you should be sure there is no way to grab it with a pair of vice-grips and spin it out. If it is truely below the surface, the first step is to spray it with penetrating lube now. That way the oil is working on the bolt/stud while you are setting up.

Maintenance/Service Items For FWD/AWD

Service intervals and what is done at the service interval is always being discussed. Service and price from one Volvo shop to another will vary depending on what is actually being done at the service. The starting point for Scheduled Maintenance should be your owner's manual. I say starting point because the owner's manual only covers the major basic items, and with time the Repair shops discover items that should be addressed at the service. If you are not going to do your own work, I would recommend you chose a Volvo dealer or and Independent Shop that specializes in Volvos only. To keep things simple use Volvo Parts. Using non-Volvo parts because they are cheaper can lead to problems down the road. Because of all the different intervals from 1993 to present, I'll cover the service item and mention the interval. Intervals between the models range from 5K to 10K, and a lot of the reasoning behind the longer interval has become political. In order to brag about lower annual maintenance cost items are left out or the interval is just increased. Despite all the new high tech that goes into the making of today's cars, the various oils and tires that are on the vehicle don't last any longer then they did 10 years ago.

To start, the Ignition key must be in position II, engine not running. Locate the two diagnostic sockets just inboard of the washer fill cap. The "A" connector (shown above) has a jumper that is stored in the lid of the "A" diagnostic connector. The jumper is used for both diagnostic connectors.  Put the jumper into A1 and push the black button for one second.