This is a basic tutorial giving a general description on how to replace the outer CV boot on your FWD Volvo. This particular documentation was done on a 1998 70 series but most of the others are similar.
Start by removing the CV joint nut which is 36mm. I used air tools for this job but if they are unavailable break the nut loose with the tire on the ground and use a 1/2" breaker bar or equivalent.
Next remove your 2-15mm caliper to spindle bolts. Then remove your lower balljoint pinch bolt. The bolt is 13mm and the nut on the back is 15mm from the factory.
Now take your unbolted cailper and either bungee cord it to the spring or lay it around the backside of the rotor. It doesn't really matter how you support it, just don't leave it hanging/dangling by the hose.
Now that the caliper is out of the way take a pry bar and pry downward on the control arm releasing the balljoint from the spindle.
You can now push your CV joint out of the wheel bearing splines by pulling the spindle towards you slightly and pushing the joint out the back. Sometimes the joint can be seized in the splines. If so install your 36mm nut back on the end of the joint making it flush with the end. Now you can tap it out with a hammer. The nut on the end keeps you from messing up the threads or the end of the joint. The above picture shows the released joint from the hub .
I'm working on the RH (passenger) side of the vehicle so you have to remove your carrier bearing bolts which are 12mm.
If this was the LH (drivers) side, you would just use a pry bar to pop the joint out of the transmission.
Now just grab a hold of the entire axle shaft, slide it out of the transmission and out the RH fenderwell. Take the whole assembly to a work bench. A vise is pretty much essential for the next steps.
This is a very basic outer boot kit with 2 clamps a boot and some grease. Volvo sells a kit (which is very nice) it includes both inner and outer boots with all the goodies but is a bit on the pricey side. I usually do both and would recommend going that route, however for this job were going the cost effective route and just doing the outer. This kit cost about $20 or less.
Clamp the axle shaft in a vise, take a pair of side cutters(dikes) and cut your clamps off. Now take a razor blade and slice the boot up the middle end to end and discard. Clean up all the grease you can with shop rags and wipe the joint clean.
Now with the axle shaft clamped tightly in the vise with the joint hanging freely, locate the snap ring on the inside of the joint(which can be a bit tricky). This ring sits in a groove on the shaft and locks the joint to the shaft. Now use a pair of retaining ring(snap ring) pliers and spread the ring open.
Next while using your one hand to spread the ring open with your pliers. Take a hammer(preferably brass) and smack the joint off the shaft. Once the snap ring has released from the groove it will stay open and you can continue to tap the joint off the shaft without the need for your snap ring pliers.
Now clean the old grease out of the joint as best as possible and take your bag or tube of grease. Cut off the end and stuff it down inside the hole in the center as shown above. Squeeze your grease into the joint until it starts to push out past the balls in the cage (as shown) basically packing the joint full,it probably won't take all the grease in the bag/tube. Don't throw away the left over grease in the bag/tube. You want to squeeze the rest of that into the boot later.
Now take your little clamp and the boot and slide them onto the shaft.
Next take your newly greased joint install your 36mm nut on the end "flush with the end" and slide it onto the shaft. Rotate it slightly back and forth, you should be able to feel the splines interlock. Once there, slightly tap the end of the joint and make sure it is sliding down the shaft. DO NOT BEAT THE JOINT ON. If it doesn't seem like it's going tap a little harder but don't force it or cross the splines. Don't worry about the snap ring as it should spread open once you slide the joint onto the shaft.
Tap the joint down until the snap ring is seated in the groove. I paint marked mine for a bit easier viewing here, but the ring ends should be almost touching each other if it is down far enough and locked on the groove in the shaft.
Now take your extra grease and squeeze it into the boot. Slide the boot over the joint, place/position your new clamps and pinch them down. I have a special tool for this but a medium to large pair of side cutters(dikes) will work fine as shown above.
Now it's time to re-assemble, basically it is reverse procedure. I do like to add anti seize to the carrier bearing,the balljont spindle socket & pinch bolt and the inside of the wheel bearing splines as shown below.
This makes for ease of disassembly the next time around if you ever need to replace something else in the future.
The below picture shows the finished job. Oh yes, the picture doesn't show it but put some grease on your steering stops while your there and clean up all the residual grease that was slung around by the torn boot.