The requirement to replace the PNP switch is usually prompted by the up arrow on your instrument cluster flashing, maybe the mode select switch flashing between modes and possibly the turning on of the check engine light. You might also notice that your car is stuck in 3rd gear. The first thing to do for a 313 code recovered from the A-1 diagnostic socket is to clear the code and then do what I call a ratchet cleaning. Move the shift lever from "P" to "L" rapidly 15-20 times, this can clean up the copper contacts on the inside of the PNP switch. Some shops will do the ratchet of the shifter without mention when doing a service, (I do). The changing of the weather from fall to winter also causes the fault to show up a lot. If you are doing the work yourself you will need to get the Volvo part from a dealer or other source. To start allow yourself at least half of a day if this is your first PNP switch replacement. The photos are using a non-turbo as an example, but it will be close enough to figure out the differences. You need to have your radio code handy because you are going to remove the battery. Understand there are many ways to accomplish the replacement, I may have you remove items that later you would decide didn't need removing, these instructions are intended to make it as easy as possible.
Start by putting the car in neutral and pull up on the Emergency brake. In the above picture start by removing the air intake pipe, it has the pink sticker and red arrow on it. Hold where it connects to the front of the car and push and wiggle the plastic in the direction of the red arrow. Once the tube is free from the front, pull towards the front of the car and twist to free it from the bottom of the air box.
Next remove the battery by disconnecting the positive and negative cables, a 10mm small wrench will be needed. Some times there is a black plastic hold down that keeps the battery in place to the cars left. The hold down is on the tray, in the picture look down the left side of the battery it is attached to the front of the tray, just lift up and it will come off. Slide the battery in board and lift up, more so on the front to clear the lip it sits in on the back of the battery tray
Remove the black plastic cover/protector over the throttle linkage. The red dot is a 25mm torx screw. Unscrew the 25mm torx and then lift up on the back and towards the front of the car so the cover clears the two slots that are on the front bottom. Disconnect the intake hose from the air box at the yellow (dot) 7mm clamp. The clamp is 7mm but is also set up for a flat tipped screw driver. I always use a 7mm inch drive that way I don't strip out the head of the clamp.
To remove the air box, start by disconnecting the mass air flow connector, MAF (light blue). If you look down and to the rear of where the MAF is, there may be a solenoid that has an electrical connector and two vacuum lines (attached to the air box), I disconnect the electrical connector and then shove the solenoid aft out of the rubber holder, leaving the vacuum lines connected. You may not have that solenoid. You are just trying to ensure everything connected to the air box is free. This car has a silver pre-heater hose on the back inboard section of the air box, it must be wiggled off as well. Grab the inboard part of the air box and give a good yank up, about 1 inch and the two plastic fasteners at the bottom should release the air box, next move the air box inboard to clear the 1 inch plastic guide that slides into a rubber bushing . Maneuver the box out of the car.
With the battery and air box out of the way there is one more layer of obstructions to remove. Start with the battery tray on the left. First take off the 10mm hold down screw for the positive battery cable, the yellow arrow points to it. Now Remove the 12mm hold down screws on the battery tray outlined in green. I use a 3/8 drive for this. Maneuver the tray inboard to free it from where it seats into the inner fender. Below the battery tray is the vacuum pump for the cruise control. In the area of the white arrow is a vacuum line attached to the vacuum motor, take it off, and then work the battery tray out and turn it over enough to disconnect the electrical connector to the vacuum pump on the right under side. With the battery tray out of the way, we want to take out the hold down for the air box. Cut the tie wrap at the blue arrow, and then disconnect the vacuum line to the brake booster at the pink arrow. The connection is tight and very hard to work out because of the teeth on the white connector, I some times put a small screw driver in to loosen it up and help break it free. You will have to pull very hard to get it apart. Next remove the 12mm bolts holding the bracket in place and remove it from the car. As you are removing items remember where they were and how to get them back to where they belong. You also want to move things out of the way so your work area stays free of the connectors and hoses that have been disconnected.
Most everything that needs to be taken out of the way is now removed. The two yellow arrows are pointing to the electrical connection for the cruise control on the left and the vacuum line to the brake booster on the right. At this point the next step is to remove the 13mm nuts out lined in yellow. Later in the picture sequence you will note the two 13mm on the right holding down the shift cable are still connected, take yours off it will make it easier to get the PNP switch in and out. I have done many of these and am able to maneuver the switch under the shift cable. The top 13mm nut is holding the wiring harness and the transmission dip stick tube in place via a stand off stud, the 13mm on top of the PNP switch holds the shift cable to the PNP switch, after you remove the nut a screw driver or small pry bar will help to work the shift cable up and off the PNP switch. The two 13mm nuts holding the shift cable secure should be put back in the same place to avoid having to adjust the cable. You might want to score around the nuts to ensure you get them back in the correct position. Lift the cable up and back out of the way. Now the PNP connector, first push down where the green arrow is on the black section of the switch at the same time lift up on the silver handle, it will come up and move towards the front of the car lifting the connector off the connection.
Now to get the connector out of the holder. First cut off the two tie wraps (red arrows), and then with a pair of needle nose pliers pull the rubber boot off and out of the way. Below the boot are two clips that you need to break off with a small screw driver. I spray the inside edges of the switch with WD 40 to loosen it up for sliding up and off, it helps a little. The spot marked with yellow is where I normally hook up a pair of needle nose vice grips to help pull the inside of the connector up. Before pulling up you need a small screw driver or pick to stick down in the connector where I have the blue line drawn to push the blue connector inside the switch towards the front of the car just enough so that it releases and allows you to pull the inside of the switch up and out of the holder.
The above picture gives you an idea of the little blue tab that you are trying to push forward to release enough to pull the insides of the switch up. Notice the bottom of the picture with the needle nose vice grips holding the switch. Once the switch is up and out it comes apart in three sections, you need to disconnect the back section so your new switch can be hooked in.
With the connector up and out of the holder you are now ready for the final steps on removing the switch. Start with the green arrow, it is a hold down for the wire run from the PNP switch over to the connector, just bend it up. Next lift the wiring harness and dip stick tube off the stud. (red arrows) The dip stick tube can be followed down to where it seats into the transmission, when pulling up to get it off the stand off you will un-seat the orange "O" ring down at the bottom, no problem, pull it clear and it will help to get it out of the way up top. When going back together make sure you get the tube and the "O" ring back into the transmission, it can be tricky as you are trying to get the top on the stand off and at the same time get the "O" ring and bottom into the transmission. The center nut on the PNP is 22 or 24mm (can't remember) but it's not on that tight. Bend down the tabs that help to lock it into place (4 yellow arrows) and then unscrew the center nut. The two outer yellow bolts/stand offs are 17mm, I use a deep socket 3/8 to make it easier for the one on the left.
The above picture shows all the bolts and stand offs off and the switch ready to be helped up and off the center shaft with a small pry bar or screw driver. The yellow arrows are pointing to where you should have broken off two tabs on the side prior to trying to lift the switch up and out of the holder. Notice also that the switch is disconnected. The red arrow is pointing to one of the transmission lines that may be in the way when you put the alignment tool on the center shaft of the PNP switch, just pry it a little forward so you can slip the tool on the shaft. More than likely you have move or clicked the transmission into different gears in the process of removing the various nuts and bolts, not to worry, once you have worked the new switch back down the shaft and into place, grab hold of the shaft with a healthy pair of vice grips and turn it all the way to the right, that would be "Park" now to the left two clicks, one click "R", tow clicks "N".
This is what the alignment tool looks like, you can get them from VOLVO. Place the tool on the center shaft set in neutral . Put the right 17mm bolt in hand tight and then move the switch until the line marking on the PNP switch is centered on the alignment tool, now tighten the right bolt, check to ensure it is still aligned now put in the rest of the bolts.
The boot that goes around the bottom of the switch can be tricky getting back on. Run your tie wrap like shown in the picture and then work the tie wrap under the wires and push the boot into place, bring the tie wrap through the loops on the right side and tighten, the back tie wrap doesn't have any loops just work it under the wire and secure it. Assemble in reverse order, don't over tighten the 13mm on the PNP switch, if it breaks the transmission would have to be replaced. (Snug, not over tight, a little lock tight might make you feel better) If you still have codes set, go in and clear them out.