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. . Get ready for... Volvos at the Farm Volvo & SAAB meet, people's choice car show, raffle, and fundraiser for the Alzheimer's Association. All vintage and modern Swedish cars including daily drivers are welcome! For those who want to show their car, categories will include Vintage, Performance, and Modern. Always a great time connecting with new and old Swedish car friends. Please help us with your generous support for the Alzheimer's Association. Spectators are welcome! The Farm at Carter Hill is located along Route 66 in a rural country setting. It’s a scenic farm with rustic buildings, beautiful rolling landscape, ice cream, beer garden, and animals for the kids to interact with! * * * SPECIAL FEATURE * * * SPECIAL FEATURE * * * * * * FCP's project Volvo 850 BTCC build reveal! * * * Entry is FREE, however we are collecting contributions to support the Alzheimer's Association! Goody bags while they last! And don't forget to patronize the farm! Date: SUNDAY August 7, 2022 Time: 10:00 am - 2:00 pm Location: (The Farm at Carter Hill) 86 East Hampton Rd, Marlborough, CT Food and drinks: Food, drinks, ice cream, etc. available for purchase. Thank You to ... • FCP Euro for their generous donation of merchandise and gift certificates. • Mitch & Hazel of The Farm at Carter Hill for their ongoing support and providing use of the their farm grounds and facilities. Check out more photos from last year: https://photos.app.goo.gl/kNKRu9HYCTJo3Rg59 Southern New England Chapter | Volvo Club of America https://sites.google.com/site/snevcoa/ . .

The oil leak could be a number of things. Off the top of my head: Crank seal, oil cooler thermostat, oil lines, and cam seals can all present in that area. Best to clean it well and closely monitor for the location. as zappo said, bump stop has fallen. It still works, but can cause an annoying sounds when going over bumpy terrain. Not a big rock on this car, at this age. Watch the oil leak though.

Aside from the heater core recommendation, here's one that goes unmentioned also. If you have a sunroof, makes sure the drains are clear and free of debris. Moisture in the cabin can cause condensation to form on the windows inside of the cabin. Additionally, table note of the position the car is on when you park it, i.e. the front is down or the front is up.

From what i Have seen there isnt too much i can mess up in the job. I'm going to mark the parts as I go and take pictures. Parts just arrived. Thanks for the support.

Hi all, I have looked to see if this is covered but did not see it. I am looking at fitting a bluetooth Grom unit to my 2006 D5 XC90, when fitted the stereo turns on, then turns off. This has to do with the MOST. Without going to the dealer, which is extortionate, is there another way to disable the settings? I have Dice and Vida. Thanks, Clive

I need to find it and make sure it still looks good.

I think it's the shifter itself since I used have to hit it down for it to lock in place. Everything else works as it should. I think in full honesty it's the button on the shifter not catching right. As the car is coming out of a 10 year hibernation I'm just trying to ensure it's all in decent working order.

I think I still have mine, but are you sure it is a shifter issue and not the cables?

Wondered if anyone out there has a good/working auto shifter for an 850. Wouldn't mind a wood one but would settle for a standard gray one. The one on there right now has shifting issues. Thanks!

so are you calling for war?

That looks great! Nice job!

Found some interior parts at the junkyard when I was looking for a heater core (didn't find the core) found two of the solid interior parts. Didn't think to take pictures before swapping the glove box (now I need to figure out how to swap the key hole) Only parts I need now is the steering wheel, shift knob, dome light assembly, instrument cluster (already have it, doing when I replace the core) and passenger foot well cover. The trim around the radio is getting swapped with the new receiver as it needs to be custom XD (also need new speakers... Stock ones for now)

Happy to announce the P2R setup is finally in. Findings are promising. Previous max from 1078 kg/hr with the open filter, to a new peak of 1105 kg/hr! Needless to say, the car is running well... and it's getting closer to the switch to e85! I've already incorporated some QoL changes to the air box snorkel for a v1.1 that will reduce the amount of filament to print it, increase the size of the opening into the air box, and result in a much better overall install and polished product... including addressing the odd mounting bolt location as seen inside of the air box. also upgraded PCV lines to 12an fittings. There's still a restriction (relative) to being true 12an at the catch can - I'm using 10an orb to 12an male fittings. Perhaps, down the road, there's a better breather box in the works.

I'm blown away by the loyal people trump still has. I think people are so entrenched in believing his crap that have to keep riding that horse. He upsets people so much(ME) that people love the distain I have and support him more. The grifting he is doing doesn't seem to matter to anyone.

I'm so sick of it all. I need to move to Iceland.

Volvo 88890300 Vocom Interface highlights: 1. Multi-Languages 2. Support Volvo Renault UD Mack Truck Diagnose 3. OS requires: window7 32bit Volvo 88890300 Volvo vocom adapter description: Volvo 88890300 Vocom Interface is a diagnostics application that covers the whole repair process through the use of plug-ins. With Volvo 88890300 Vocom Interface you can diagnose, test, calibrate, and program a product. A product could be a vehicle, engine, or a machine. Volvo 88890300 Vocom Interface also provide functions for updating the tool, communication with the product, and other external applications. The set of plug-ins, user authorizations, and available languages is adjustable to provide every user with what they need. Volvo 88890300 Vocom Interface Supported Companies and Electrical Systems: Volvo Trucks (Older electrical system, Vehicle electronics '98, V2, V3, V4); Volvo Buses (Conventional, Multiplexed, Multiplexed v2, Multiplexed v3); Volvo Construction Equipment; Volvo Penta (VERSION2); Volvo OEM Component Customer (VERSION2); Mack Trucks (V-MAC I/II/III, ITC, IV, IV+); Renault Trucks (VERSION2); UD Trucks (VERSION2) Volvo 88890300 Vocom Interface Functions: Identify a product. View information history. Diagnose a selected product. Test a selected product. Program a selected product. Calibrate a selected product.

Temp sensor is easy. You can do it at the same time you are doing the PCV system. It may also be the reason you are running rich. Pulling the intake manifold off is the hardest part of the PCV system replacement, but not really that big of a deal.

I hardly know anything about mechanics but I am trying. My pcv system has needed to be done for a long time and I did'nt realize. I was trying to diagnose issues with drivability and stuttering on takeoff or idle. Also wondering where my oil has been going when there are no apparent leaks. Well, I watched more RobertDIY and he talked about how the oil could shoot out of the dipstick to the under hood of the car. I looked and there is indeed oil shot all over the under of my hood. I don't think i blew any seals yet. I ordered a Pcv replacement kit and am going to attempt it. Terrified, New jobs riding on this. I have the RobertDIY video and have studied it. Only job i have done was replace my fuel filter myself and a fender replacement. Dash says TEMP or DISC where the time is displayed. I think it means the temp gauge is disconnected but I cant find it. Popping new codes as well P0116. Coolaint temp sensor Looks doable but has to wait. Priority is PCV P0442 - small leak in evap system Secondary air pump inoperative - smog device misfire - cylinder 1 (i think) Running too rich - due to inoperative secondary air pump i believe. coolaint tank leak somewhere - needs new tank Used cars have gone up in price a lot since i paid $1000 for this car a year or so ago. I have grown to really love my Blue coup and have yet to give up on it. Any advice or help in any way is going to help calm me in my attempts. I don't know much about any of this but have actively learned as im going.

I'm super late on this but Vs didn't let me post for a month lol. From what I recall they were about the same drop as the HR and the eibachs, all three being a little higher than the IPD blue springs. I found this for you https://www.swedespeed.com/threads/fs-1995-850-t5-r-sedan-yellow.585443/

Hi, I have a maxxecu pro and will make a conversion harness to stock ECU connector and trans controller connector. Can anyone provide me with a complete pinout?

An old factory Dakar bike.

Oh awesome! Great to know my research was accurate! Will do at a junkyard run on Sunday and pick up a couple temporary, till I can get a new one delivered and installed. Will definitely have a look at some of Roberts videos on the topic!

Not potential, you need to replace the core ASAP before it lets go completely. The longer you wait, the worse it will get. Luckily, it isn't that difficult to replace. I have done mine twice and there are videos out there on how to do it if you want to tackle it yourself. I'm sure Robert DIY has a video on it.

Hello all, Thank you in advance for your assistance with this! Little bit of contextual prefacing: I drive an S70. Recently replaced the radiator, starter, and had to rebuild the engine, all about two months ago. Has been running reliably and sounding normal since. The last week or so has been much more humid than usual as it's been storming mildly frequently. Because of this, I didn't think much of finding my windows entirely covered in fog upon entry yesterday (standard condensation). The issue arose when I tried to make a 5 minute drive. Normally full heat would remove the condensation, but only seemed to make it worse. this morning is when I really started noticing an issue. Very little weather occurrences overnight, no reason for condensation, but the same fog issue. Driving to work in stop and go traffic prompted a white smoke to come out the cabin air vents, and the continued recondensation of the windows. Vehicle gets incredibly humid after very little time, especially with the air fans on. still sounds normal and operates as it should. Only issue I'm finding is the cabin vents. was looking into it and all I found was a potential need to replace the heater core, buy I'm wondering if anyone else may have some ideas? I've never had this happen before and a bypass isn't an option because winter 😕 thanks again for your help! I hope you have a great rest of your day