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Haha. Perfect. 🤌🏻 I looked at 850s. And I’m assuming this is the case everywhere but probably worse in the Midwest: finding clean, “lower” mileage p80s and p2s is getting really really hard. Here’s my problem with p80s: I can’t do a p80 and not have everything work exactly like it should. It’s not old enough to have quirks and me be like “oh haha it’s just an old car how silly”. My e30 it’s part of the patina/charm. Another p80 would have to be bought as a resto type project.

Nice. What color do you think your next P80 is going to be?

Eating my own words here - back in a Volvo. Don’t act surprised. You know you’re not. I also don’t care if you’re rolling your eyes right now, either. Ultimately I wanted the money that was in the X5 other places. Mostly paying off any outstanding debt we had. So I sold it to my brother. Picked up this 2013 R Design. It’s a car that’s always been on my list of cars I want, so it worked out. My first reaction is I can tell the difference between a BMW and a similar year Volvo; how the door closes, steering feel, interior finish, etc. But there are also more important things than that. Car has 150k miles. But drives straight. No leaks. Needs some attention - first on the list is new front rotors and pads to get rid of the stupid drilled and slotted rotors, transmission torque mount to get rid of the stupid poly torque mount, PCV box, and spark plugs. The issues I’ve discovered is a rear O2 CEL came on after I got it, P2098. I’d love anyone’s input on that one. And there’s some noises from the front DS wheel area.

Haven't posted in a long time... here goes... I have a 1998 V70R which I've fitted a S60R 2.5 engine into. Engine came out of my S60R with 80k and ran good. Have kept the M56 box. Fitted most of the V70R components over (22T turbo, VXR injectors, 3" intake with new PCV system, 3" downpipe (new cat or exhaust fitted atm), Do88 intercooler, V70R throttle body, standard TCV. M4.4 ECU, MAF is 3.5" from a BMW, most of the pipework has been upgraded. All vac lines are silicone, new clutch, flywheel etc). Engine has been converted to Coil over plug using S60R bits and a custom map/ecu wiring. Have completed a VVT delete on both cams. Belts replaced and timing set 2.3' exh anticlockwise and the inlet 6.2' clockwise. O2 is being measured by a AEM AFR wideband. FPR is currently a 3bar unit, was originally 3.4bar to try different things. I'm seeing 3bar at the rail with no massive drop over time. New battery and have confirmed injectors, ICV, CAM, Crank, MAF are all working fine. The car is a pig to start. Running real rich and only real way of starting is to keep blipping the throttle to WOT. Vacuum is only -9psi negative at idle. Glove test inflates massively when idling. Trying to tune the car I'm jumping between 12AFR Rich and 20 AFR Idle. The radiator fan is making the car run real rich and then lean, often stalling the car. Car battery is brand new with healthy voltage / alternator working. at @~14.1volts RPM is around 700-800rpm. My cold compression tests are Cylinder 1 2 3 4 5 Cold 102 99 82 100 109 with oil 175 208 185 200 200 (I might of been a bit keen with oil in some of the cylinders!) I haven't tried a compression check hot yet. It's hard enough to start although once running and warm it does fine and tries to hunt for ~14AFR. Short term fuel is jumping -/+ 25.00. Will easily restart warm. Checking the new plugs (volvo genuine, correct long size) they're wet. Spark to all is strong and injectors are pulsing good with good flow with cup test. The only thing left in my mind is the timing is out. I can't believe its rings as the engine ran good power and had no issues before it was moved into car. I've cross checked all the normal bits above with a friend's car that is running fine and the same setup (although he has a K turbo). Installing vice versa and my parts run fine on his inc coils, rail, injectors, maf, etc. I've tried running my friends ECU and loaded his turbotuner map - still won't run good. We're not even out of the garage yet - so no on-road driving! Anything else I'm missing or not thinking about? So hacked with it now!

Apparently Moates has stopped selling Ostrich. Does anyone have alternative suggestions for Ostrich?

01 xc, no fuel pressure sensor on end of the rail, I see it has the damper attached to the underside. Seems to be mixed info out there, would it be the one near the PS rack? I'd look myself but don't have the ability Part number would be helpful when I look on FCP it only suggests the sensor on the end of the rail No CEL but just recently after driving for a bit the car would have a rough start and die, not every time, inconsistent at best. I can keep it running with the pedal and once you get going it stays running. Also noticed some slight hesitation around 3k rpm 1/2 throttle or so, not so bad that it jerks but with the radio off it can be heard. Of course the fuel pressure sensor came up in searching

Hey Guys! I wanted to give back a bit by updating the XDF that we have been working with for a while. This XDF should be easier for beginners as it has a bunch of the values renamed to be more human understandable. I also updated some descriptions and added more known maps by scouring this thread and adding them. I also implemented a patch system! So now you are able to change values like MAF Size, Injector Type, ECC Type (850 or X70), Transmission (Man or Auto) all within the software with just a single click! All values are confirmed to work on a 608 BIN file TAKE A LOOK! Feel free to give feedback and suggestions and i'll update it as needed! https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13DU5MhBg2spxgmEk5yc5CTo_E3d-881t?usp=share_link

What different years and models could I find a matching motor.

Hello, I have a Volvo XC70 (2012) D3 FWD 120kw eDrive (6-speed manual gearbox). I bought it with a gearbox defect - something rattled. My gearbox code is CGR9 7002 HB (1285037). I could not find a gearbox with this code. Masters replaced with this CG9R 7002 JB (1285035). Everything is fine, but when driving in 4th gear, it shows that it is 4th or usually that it is 5th gear, when driving in 5th gear, it shows that it is 6th gear. All other gears show correctly. Where is the problem? Different gear ratio for these gears? Can this be fixed without replacing the gearbox? If it is still necessary to change a different gearbox, then what codes would be suitable for it?

It sounds like the no crank can be a problem with the neutral safety switch since you used the automatic harness. There was 2 wires I had to connect together if I can find the wiring diagram I used I'll link it And also the 95 car has a completely different abs system then a 96. The 95 uses the transmission for the speedometer, in 96 they stated using wheelspeed. I'm not sure if that'll help ya but figured I'd share what I know

Here's a thread on the topic that I recall (was thinking about doing this project for awhile, but I eventually found a good turbo wagon): Unfortunately, not a lot of detail in there from what I saw. I'd still like to do this because N/A are the only cars you can get in the states w/o sunroofs. I'd love to lose mine..

Hey guys, I'm new to the Volvo stuff but not to the discontinued spare parts topic as I come from the old Audi scene. Long story short: the drinkerside driveaxle on my xc70 has some play in the middle joint and I rather have a spare part right now then just wait until something brakes. I already searched the whole internet, called dealers around here in Germany and even contacted Volvo Germany - all with the se result : part is discontinued, was a one year only option and I should just buy a new car. Volvo is a 06 xc70 with the 185hp d5 and a m66awd transmission Driveaxle is 28 spline with a 30mm diameter on transmission side and a 36teeth pattern for the hub Can I make a axle of a xc90 fit and does that one work without having a lift kit on the car? Is anyone here who ran into the same problem and found a solution for it or has the knowledge what is interchangeable and what not? Cause I don't want to keep ordering and returning parts till I find something that will match or fit Cheers Armin

I did go with the manual. I worked under the assumption that the wiring for the manual was already correct because the car it was going into was already a manual. Didn't even cross my mind that I would still have to jump pins because the doner car was auto. ill do some looking into the "manual" swap on this and report back. Much appreciated!

You swapped in the ECU from the T5 correct? Also, I am guessing you went with the manual transmission. What did you do with the connector for the auto transmission? I believe you have to jump two pins in order to fool the ECU into believing the auto is still there. You should be able to find threads on here about manual swapping and what you needs to do with the wiring.

Hey all, To preface: everything I've read till now was that one should never do said swap, however, I was given a manual 850 GLT wagon and a crashed automatic T5-R sedan for free. I've proceeded to ignore everything the forums have said and go ahead on the swap. my username is apt as this is the first time I've done anything Volvo. I'm a BMW guy. I've done a few OBDI and OBDII engine swaps on BMWs, been around the block with manual swaps a few times as well. The wagon is a 95 OBDII car. The T5 was a 96 OBDII car. I grabbed the motor, all the engine wiring harnesses's, cluster, steering column, motor, radiator and bunch of smaller things off the crashed T5. I've swapped the motor into the wagon with all the wiring harnesses, I pulled the dash out and put the turbo dash harness and cluster in. Basically the front half of the wagon is all turbo parts and the back half of the wagon is all original parts. I pretty much tossed the turbo stuff in and crossed my fingers that it would all just happily work out. Shockingly......it didn't. The issues I'm running into: I'm getting a no crank condition on the motor and none of the headlights, signals, horn etc are working (but everything on the back half of the car is). I'm getting all the dash lights on the cluster illuminating. If I pull the stalk for high beams, the light on the dash illuminates but the lights don't actually turn on. When I pull the wiper stalk, the wipers do turn on. Something has gone funky somewhere with all the swapping of harnesses. Right now, I'm trying to chase down the no crank issue, I'll deal with the accessories later. I haven't managed to find a "successful" swap thread on this swap. Everything is "DONT DO IT, IDIOT" and the thread dies out after that. Is there any repining of DME or modules for this swap. Do any of you have the wiring diagrams from both cars that I could compare to each other. Any other advice or things in general for this swap? Is there any other modifications for this swap needed? In conclusion: No, it's not cheaper to sell my wagon and buy an 850 turbo wagon because I got it for free and I can't sell a paperweight for anything close to the cost of an 850 turbo. I am already past the point of no return on this swap. The NA motor and T5-R shell are gone. I have shop space and time to do this swap. In this case, I don't care about my time that I put into it. I have other cars to drive. This is a passion project so all logic is out the window. I hope that quells a majority of the "DON'T DO IT, IDIOT" concerns. Fingers crossed for a productive thread on this. Thanks in advance!

You say "fairly expensive" OBD reader -- which one? The 4.3/4.4 cars are pretty simple, all told, from a scanning perspective, and I've always gotten by with bare-bones $30-40 scanner.

Yes. I have it installed currently in my 850R and have found it to be far too sensitive to light across the entire range of the sensitivity setting. Sometimes when the sensor ends up having modern headlights shine onto it (like lifted trucks that are oncoming, or vehicles turning into the oncoming lane from sloping side streets) it will completely shut off the headlights momentarily. I need to either modify the electronics or tint the window that the sensor is behind to make it useful. If it actually worked well it would be cool.

According to this old post this old post, a '96 854R would be running 21/20 out of the factory, up from the T5's 20/19.5. So if this front off the donor S70 is 20mm as it should be, looks like I'll be running square 20/20. Will be interested to see how it handles.

Actually, I was wrong. I am running 25/28. I used to run 25/25. At one point iPd used to sell a race setup that was 25/25, along with their current 25/22 upgrade. I am running coil overs with adjustable dampening. Stiffer in the front than the rear. I adjust dampening when I race the car, but that is my normal setup for the street. I don't run any chassis bracing, but I do have some very beefy end links. My wheel offset is higher to clear my brakes, so the track is wider front and rear. Similar to running spacers with stock wheels. You will definitely feel the difference between a 25 front vs a 20, even at low speed turns. A 25/22 will be similar in handling to what you are used to except it will be flatter in cornering as expected. The Delrin bushings are way easier to install with the frame out than with it in the car. I did it the hard way.

Those of you running square, how stiff is the rest of your setup? What shocks/springs, and any chassis stiffening? Assuming that if I find a front/rear ratio that I like, I can up the stiffness as desired? like, if I find 20/19 to my liking, I can expect reasonably the same out of, say, 25/23?

same^ the rear of my wagon steps out on mine in the rain too haha

I run 25mm front and rear. You have to be more careful in the snow as the rear will step out on you.

I was extremely tempted, but in the end went with XC90 bushings. The car was hit right in the driver's side front wheel while parked on the street, and that buckled the subframe with enough force to pierce the transmission. I figure no small part of why the car is still straight is the old subframe bushings deformed. Will that one in a million hit ever happen again? no. Will I angrily take it apart again in a few years to put in the derlin bushings? ha, yeah probably. For kicks, here's what the old subframe looked like: That makes sense -- I thought square was odd. Thank you. I figure once I get it on the road again and sort out the body work, I'll probably get a 22 rear off of IPD and see how that suits me.

You might as well install Delrin SF bushings if you have it all apart.

I don't believe you have a 21mm rear as stock. Volvo never made them square for safety reasons as they wanted it to tend to understeer. You most likely have a 19mm rear. You won't notice much difference between the 21 and 20 front, if at all.