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  1. Yesterday
  2. super lit dude. so lit. getting turnt over here
  3. Carlisle 2018

    Ive been busting my butt with the white car to get it ready. Art: Are you bringing the 240??
  4. Help a noob out?

    The wire feeds back into the same place the excitor wire is coming out of. I’ll have to hunt down some schematics
  5. Help a noob out?

    Dangling wires are never good. Can you see what the other end is connected to?
  6. Oil Thermostat Housing Gasket trick

    Unfortunately I'm going to have to take mine off soon to replace it. The moaning on every cold start is driving me absolutely insane. As a side note, has anyone figured out why they do that? Thanks for sharing this tip!
  7. Oil Thermostat Housing Gasket trick

    The trick I used was to not remove the thermostat at all! I've never seen an untouched one leak so I wanted to keep mine that way. It took a little work getting the lines in place with it on the engine, but not having to futz with that gasket made it totally worth it! Definitely filing this in the memory bank though, in case I need it. Thanks for sharing.
  8. 1998 Volvo S70 Bumper Cover Removal Help

    Ehh, just break those tabs. It'll be fine. It may sound harsh, but certainly try your best to keep them intact. Spend 20, 30, 45 or more minutes trying. How much patience do you have? If you can get them undone without breaking them, that's great! I wish I could have. But I couldn't. So I broke 'em and pulled the cover off in 2 seconds. I'd say there are no ill effects on my car.
  9. Carlisle 2018

    All of this makes me happy.
  10. 1998 Volvo S70 Bumper Cover Removal Help

    Yes to above, and the tabs are brittle after many years, I broke several on removal. If you need to get the cover off plan to replace that nylon strip.
  11. Carlisle 2018

  12. Help a noob out?

    Anybody know what this loose wire is for? It’s like a flat grey or possibly a faded green. It’s right next to the alternator by the excitor wire. Any help is appreciated, I stayed up all night and never got lucky. Thanks 1995 Volvo 850 T5
  13. Politics On Politics.

    Bombs away Bolton getting tapped watch the Iran nuclear deal go boom watch the N K deal go tits up
  14. Carlisle 2018

    I know but then New Orleans came out of nowhere! Promise I'm going this year.
  15. Finally replacing engine S70 T5

    The lifters may be salvageable, if you can still compress them and they aren't seized up, you should be alright. Soak them in oil for a while and make sure they fill back up. Being that you're dealing with a non-VVT motor, you should be okay without the cam locking tools. They are definitely helpful, but they aren't 100% necessary. As long as the cams are lined up properly from the rear of the engine and you align timing marks on the front (if you removed the cogs) they shouldn't move. The tranny and oil cooler o-rings on the radiator are the same. If the timing belt tensioner is OEM (INA) you should be okay reusing it. They tend to last a long time. You mentioned the tensioner on your parts list... do you mean the tensioner or the pulley? Since the engine is out and you'll be dropping the oil pan anyway, you might as well inspect the bearings. They're probably fine as long as the engine didn't run out of oil. I would recommend going with Corteco crank and cam seals based on threads I've read on other Volvo forums. I used SKF rear cam seals in my V70 and I haven't had any issues. Otherwise if you can spare the money for OE Volvo seals (they are a bit expensive compared to other brands), it would not be a bad idea. I wouldn't worry too much about the PCV if it was the turbo that was leaking. They don't have anything to do with each other. If it's old, replace it while you have easy access. Otherwise, leave it. I can't speak much for turbo rebuild kits, but I know ARD sells them. They are reputable parts retailers, and I'd trust them over eBay. I'll also mention that it would be a better idea to use an Aisin water pump over the Hepu. I have heard about Hepu pumps leaking prematurely.
  16. Last week
  17. Carlisle 2018

    pfffffffff thats what You said last year ;)
  18. Hi Everyone, Hope you are well and looking forward to the 10th Annual EuroTech Tech Session, Lunch, & Planning Meeting this Saturday, March 24th! Coffee and Donut Volunteers have been found for the EuroTech Event! Please be sure to thank them on Saturday! Shout out to our event volunteers: Daniel! Thank you for your generous donut donations! Michal! Thank you for your generous coffee donations! Google Map (will open in new tab/window): Event Flyer (Google Doc at Google Drive): SacVCOAFlyerEuroTech_March18: Facebook event / discussion: See you at EuroTech on the 24th starting at 10:00A! Take care, volvie!
  19. 2018 Best Choices: Tires (P80)

    Among amateur tarmac circuit race teams here in N Europe there is a recent consensus of direct group order of either AD08 or KU36 considered as best price/performance racing tires that are affordable and road legal. V70A, R888 and similar street semislics are banned, and I think they are overkill for street use, because of warmup and unsafe for 95% Volvo owners
  20. 18t turbo

    I'd also be interested if anyone had a good used 18T straight flange for sale as well. Matt
  21. 2018 Best Choices: Tires (P80)

    Maybe give the Yokohama Advan sport V105 a look/try as well. I've had great succes with them in terms of dry and wet grip, comfort and noiselevels. Admittedly, I run them in a 205/55R16, which ofcourse is kind of different to what most run on here :p (I like my meaty fitment ;) ) They also perform great on my dads C70 convertible; less harsh of a ride, less tramlining and better grip than the Michelin Primacy HP's he had been running on there before.
  22. Roll Center Adjusters For P80?

    First of all a quick fyi: this doesn't correct your rollcenter. Spacing out your controlarm away from the balljoint corrects the LCA angle, but rollcenter is determined by a line drawn through the joint of the arm. So, spacing away your arm doesn't correct the RC. Second: from an engineering standpoint I would be quite weary of the balljoint extenders that have been shown earlier. The design isn't great and there is an increased change of failure (the shank breaking away from the extender for example), which means I would most certainly NEVER run on public roads. The rewelding of the LCA mountpoints on the chassis however could be considered. But: also correct the position of your steeringarms or rack, because otherwise a great amount of bumpsteer or other unwanted geometry changes can be introduced. My 0.02$ ;)
  23. Roll Center Adjusters For P80?

    Please correct me if Im wrong but the 93 control arms are simply too old to be modified under lowered car needs - I mean the metal fatigue, and you only can get used with unknown history of collisions and deformations. Besides aluminum doesnt handle multiple time re-pressing of the subframe bushings. I know people around here with the good old Soviet era attitude of "economy" take the OEM cast control arms and mill the ball joint area to match the aforementioned 850 replaceable ball joint also re-pressing the bushings to cheap aftermarket replacements. I believe the best option would be fabrication of some kind of steel spacer-insert between the pre-milled cast iron control arm and 850 replaceable ball joint in order to: 1) raise the ball joint height 2) move the ball joint position more forward and outward in order to increase the caster and king pin's inclination I considered the Kalphenke's adjustable strut mounts in order to incline the king pin inwards and backwards, but they doesnt mate with OEM rubber spring seat (so one must spend another couple hundreds for their CNC'd perches) and the OEM style spring diameter (as well as IPD, TME etc) allows only minor movement around inside the strut tower.
  24. 18t turbo

    I have a good 18t. I dont have an r manifold tho.
  25. B5254T4 into my 01 XC. A few last minute ?'s

    Oh, no, not at all. I'm sorry if it came across that way :)
  26. Us Assault Weapon Ban **read First**

    Aaand he’s dead
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