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  1. Today
  2. ThatCanadianCarGuy
    Finally all back together. The car itself is far from pretty but I’m happy with how it’s going under the hood.
  3. Yesterday
  4. Tanel

    S90 lowering

    Tanel posted a topic in RWD

    Hi Guys. I just bought S90 98. and it has broken front spring. I know rear is not so easy to lower but hows front springs? Does 940 front springs useble or i need 960/S/V90 front springs and cut them? Thanks
  5. Elian Elian joined the community
  6. 300KV70AWD
    Bought a pretty beat up black 850 R. The interior, was grungy, has a broken door panel, couple of broken vents and a few other issues that need attention. The exterior had some of the worst paint I've ever seen on a Volvo. I used my quarantine time to wrap it in a color shift gloss metallic blue/green vinyl from Vvivid. First time ever attempting to wrap a car, so I'm pretty damn happy with the results.
  7. Last week
  8. RBoy8

    How Your Car Sits

    RBoy8 replied to beasters's topic in Show Room

    Damn dude! Sorry to hear about the red but I'm glad you've found a suitable replacement. I think I'm going to enjoy my setup on the track and autox. I've been enjoying them so far driving around the city so I think you'll like it, especially since you've got yellows.
  9. jstrat85
    WOW! Love the color! I wanted to do the same with the my brakes. What did you do to make the BBks work??
  10. jstrat85 jstrat85 joined the community
  11. jenksta
    No worries, hopefully someone can make use of it someday haha. The XRAM vars I did do with a script, however everything else was done manually (sounds really tedious but I'm used to it so wasn't too bad). For the ROM variables I mostly just referenced vars I'd found in a function or something and go around that address double checking the byte patterns to ensure it was the same and nothing was added/removed in the different versions, then naming them (could have been scripted but just easier for me to carry on manually). When i started with the ROM vars I was putting descs in from the damos, but got tedious so in the end I decided to just name them, and have since managed to mostly figure out the DAMOS text file format, so will write a script to insert all the translated descriptions, data types and sizes from there then duplicate any to the upper bank if needed. The offsets in the code were admittedly all done manually by searching for hex offsets in the mov DPTR instruction , figuring out what its referencing (ROM, SCL, XRAM, e.t.c.) then using ALT+R (set base for offset) to set it as a ROM/RAM/XRAM/SCL offset (again probably could have been done with a script but meh haha), makes it so much easier to understand the code with them set though. One of the other things too was creating a seperate code segment for the upper bank so that any references in instructions point correctly to the upper bank and not the lower bank (also helps when IDA does the automatic disassembly as it can understand them properly so does alot more for you). Would have been relatively easy to do it on the blank file but chose to do it after I'd already done alot of work so the only way was to use IDC/Python to manipulate the segments slightly as otherwise it would destroy everything I'd already done. Bit late to the party as I know you guys have worked on this for years, but as only recently got an 850/4.4 and never touched 8051 stuff before I've learnt alot and also picked up some IDA tricks on the way, but worth it in the end
  12. Volvorine_finland Volvorine_finland joined the community
  13. V850R
    Hey guys thanks for getting back to me I am in good ol California. I know that on a 97 bmw 328is I had they let me have one monitor not ready and it would still pass.
  14. Tightmopedman9
    I have seen a bad VVT hub let go and allow the cam to fall out of time, bending all the valves. I would recommend replacing it. You can use the hub from the 2002.
  15. erikv11
    Unfortunately I don't have a useful answer but what state are you in? In most states these cars are old enough exempt from readiness monitors. EDIT: oops looks like i opened this topic 15 hours ago, gdog is way ahead of me
  16. ThatCanadianCarGuy started following Back with more Volvo content
  17. ThatCanadianCarGuy
    Still a big time work in progress but this has been my on going project during all the time at home lately. Stripping down the stock intake manifold, shaving and polishing it. An absolute pile of work especially since the previous owner had the manifold powder coated and getting that off has been incredibly hard but I think it will be worth while when it’s finally done.
  18. tighe
    That's a good method, thanks for sharing. I replaced the negative cable with a brand new one a month about a month or so, and have not had any problems since. So I'm tentatively hoping/assuming that was the problem. I bought a new positive cable too; I'll install it when time permits or if the problem resumes. Or if a few more months go by without any issue maybe I'll send it back to FCP. Thanks to all for the troubleshooting suggestions!
  19. Tightmopedman9
    Thanks very much for that! I've spent a lot of time in IDA and I tried for a little while to import RAM variable names, but couldn't figure out an automated way to do it so I gave up on it. Did you write a script, or is there some easy way I'm totally missing?
  20. NB-V70R
    This Fiat has come so far. Looks amazing! Always inspiring to see your work
  21. gmsgltr
    I read some about the dallara - the wing they had was wild! Also noticed they had an additional bertone 'b' in the vinyl on the B pillar - will you do that as well?
  22. gdog started following 1996 Volvo 850r Will Monitoring System Will Not Stay Set and Battery cable clamps -cause of no start?
  23. gdog
    Did you ever resolve this? Fairly simple to test for bad cables; do a voltage drop test across the suspect cable when under max load (during engine cranking). If voltage drop from one end of the cable to other approaches 12v, you found the problem. Should be closer to 0v. https://www.aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm
  24. gdog
    What state are you in? It's pretty well known that early OBD2 volvo cars in the '96 to '98 MY range monitors don't work correctly. Folks that do smog tests should be aware of this. Every two years I have to get smog test; it fails OBD2 test, then they do a tailpipe sniff test, and it passes. There's an old post around here that goes into more detail. Will see if I can find it..
  25. lookforjoe
    Thank you - I liked it just red, but.... it needs the accents - this completes the body design. redid the nose decal, made it narrower to keep the pin stripe spacing even added xpel film under the rear ducts - those areas are already getting stone chipped
  26. V850R V850R joined the community
  27. V850R
    I am able to get all the monitors to say complete/ready but when I turn the car off the car forget 6 of the 8 monitors. When I turn the car back on I would have to complete the cycle again. The car runs well and if it wasn't for smog I would not worry about it. But unfortunately I have to get a smog asap. I was thinking the could just leave the car running but I called and they said the have to turn the car off before the test. Any help would be Awesome Thanks!
  28. Mattgsellstuff Mattgsellstuff joined the community
  29. sonofsoren sonofsoren joined the community
  30. gmsgltr
    I liked it plain red, but I commend you again, like all of your work, well documented and thought out/executed!
  31. lookforjoe
    I finally decided to make the Dallara stripe templates. I used a couple old pics for reference, as opposed to some of the other repro Dallara. Tagboard to make the templates. The duct area is going to be a nightmare to fit. Some panels are close enough that reversing the template will work, some not so much. Got all the decals cut from the 3M 1080 film. It's one of the new wrap films that are actually porous, so they claim it doesn't bubble when installed. I don't have a great track record with conventional decal material, so we'll see how this goes. Panels are 5.125" deep. They need to ride just over the door crease, not within it, I've seen ones like that & it just looks wrong. Hard to tell if the line is really right - it's not actually straight from front ot back. The front fender forward section has to drop to the headlamp area, but on the actual Dallara it has a bulge in it that tapers in a way I don't like , so I had to make adjustments to the line. I used painters tape to add a slightly bow to the upper line where it comes forward of the wheel arch, then it drops. Hopefully it will look right in the decal. I can always make new ones if not. Deliberated on whether to try & either get the door sections manufactured with the ICSUNONOVE, or try & do it myself. In the end, I decided to not bother. May change my mind down the road, however I'm not racing this thing. Having the type on the sides is kinda like those "MAZDA" or "FORD" banners that ppl put across the windshield, etc., when it's already obvious what the car is. That may not be so true for X1/9's these days, but I still don't think it needs it. Completed the stripes around the car. Still need to redo the left duct area. Had to jack the car up to get a decent working height. Too hard to see what's what at ground level pass duct done. Turned the car around & did the pass front fender sections. The rear section took two attempts. Every decal has some imperfection. Took it out to photo in the sunlight. Looks fine from several feet, can't see the creases .
  32. T5power T5power changed their profile photo
  33. Ihatespeedbumps
    I have seen people drive with a leaking check valve for years. You will still experience the hard start unless you fix it. I have not personally done this, but I know you can splice a check valve into the fuel line. Might be worth looking into.
  34. jenksta started following Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!
  35. jenksta
    Been lurking here for a while, but would like to say a big thanks to everyone who has contributed/helped with this as I wouldn't got so interested in it otherwise Just thought i'd share my IDA database that I've been working on for the past couple of weeks (pretty new to all of this) in case it can be of use to anyone (based on custom/wiki 607 rev 5b). It isn't the best but has the upper/lower bank disassembled/segmented and sorted (mostly) so that the disassembly makes sense (as well as sorting alot of the duplicated upper/lower bank funcs) (upper bank stuff mostly has _UB suffix). Also using the DAMOS and some other sources traced and labelled most of the ROM (v_ prefix) vars (mostly lower bank for now, will duplicate to upper bank later), RAM (r_ prefix), XRAM (xr_ prefix) and SCL (scl_ prefix) addresses. For the disassembly constants I linked them to the applicable CODE/ROM, XRAM or SCL segment for ease of disassembly/cross referencing (using virtual segments for XRAM and SCL offsets). The function naming is mostly vague and poor but can give a rough idea to some of the disassembly (although some may be incorrect based on earlier guesses before I started looking at the functions properly). As it's based on the custom/wiki rev 5b I've also labelled the custom functions/vars that are part of that too (mostly labelled with CUSTOM_ prefix). As I say alot of it has been compiled from multiple sources/references scoured from pretty much everywhere so lost track of who and what, but not claiming as mine - just couldn't keep track of everything. Download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1cUPIOqOU0KckyA52apXzQq5ZVJ_LkT4s/view?usp=drivesdk
  36. jenksta jenksta joined the community
  37. kklepack
    I can still drive it and I will experience hard start and may need to prime the pump before starting. Correct??
  38. Ihatespeedbumps
    The car should maintain 3 bar for at least 20 minutes after engine shut off. The one way check valve in your fuel pump has failed.
  39. Ihatespeedbumps
    The non spring loaded hubs can also develop the same excessive play. I'm unsure if the hubs can be swapped, never tried it. As long as it isn't leaking oil I would let it ride. When they develop too much play the hubs will rotate out of the cam seal and make an intermittent oil leak.
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