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Is there some sort of sticker that has the part number and how will that match if I'm looking to swap from a HU-650 to an HU-850 head unit? My understanding was that an HU-850 from a 2007 S60R would swap fine into my 2007 S60R with an HU-650.
- Yesterday
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New-to-Me 850R. Stage 0+ Recommendations?
sventastic replied to superleggera's topic in FWD/AWD 1998 and Prior
The same tune-up parts are $15-20 cheaper on FCP Euro, and you'll have a lifetime warranty on all of it! I think the bigger/better ignition improvement on these cars is switching them to coil-on-plug, but that will require a much larger cost since you'll need a tune to go with it. That said, if you want to max out the 15G you may want to go this route instead of a MBC anyways. If you get the MSD, I think it's about 50% cheaper on sites that aren't IPD... Looking forward to seeing it - you may have noticed Photobucket doesn't work for hosting photos anymore unless you spend a stupid amount of money - the preferred sites now seem to be Imgur and Flickr, so you'll probably want to make an account in order to be able to share photos -
My first and worst build
Wesdunns70t5m replied to Wesdunns70t5m's topic in Performance Modifications
Ok, managed to get my rods and pistons out bout an hour ago. Everything is in tact and looks straight to the eye. Every cylinder looks pretty good to my surprise, except for #2. All of them, except 2, still has the cross hatching on the walls, and no noticeable lip at the top of any cylinder. There is a ring of discoloration, presumably where the pistons where at when I first took the original head off. So far the block looks very usable which I'm happy about. There was some wear on the connecting rod bearings, but nothing extraordinary. More to come -
Finally, my new to me Volvo 850R is en-route from Texas to Augusta, GA. I've long wanted to build one of these cars into a hell-raiser daily driver. Ever since seeing the light of the 5-cylinder in my friends GT40 S60R, I knew I had to have one. I digress, this is my first post on Volvospeed, thank you all for the hospitality. The vehicle should be here in two days, so I'm attempting to scramble together the most preferred parts for a full Stage 0 Tuneup. I've looked at the IPD Major Service Tune-Up kit, it certainly seems to have all the necessary parts to bring the car up. However, in the interest of future performance (MORE BOOST), I did not know if there is an upgrade Distributor Cap/Wire/Coil Setup preferential to the IPD one. Noticed a few people are using the old MSD Blaster coil, and some other different variations of ignition philosphy exist. What, so to speak would be the best set-up to max out a 15G. I will be adding a MBC, tune & full exhaust in very short order. I also noticed the preferred method to flush & fill a transmission is to, let me understand this, flush and fill the 6.7 quart sump 3-4 times with Dexron III H fluid or Dexron 6 fluid, then do a flush with all 10 or so quarts with Mobil 1 or a preferred synthetic, correct? Any and all advice and input appreciated in advance.
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I would have had both machined but it simply wasn't an option. After thinking about it with all the threads on here that show good outcomes despite not following Volvo's recommendations it will be fine. And yes, it requires an MLS gasket. Fingers crossed. Was given some very old chemical with plenty of warning labels on the can. Took most of the haze away after careful swiping with a fine towel and left a smooth surface. Volvo's instructions and new parts are garbage. Some of the replacement bolts I got are literally impossible to fit as they differ significantly from what was installed.
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My first and worst build
Wesdunns70t5m replied to Wesdunns70t5m's topic in Performance Modifications
I got the oil pan off today during my lunch break...the joys of living close to work ahah. I didn't find any shavings, though my pickup filter had a little bit of gunk in it, but not much at all. Almost time to start measuring everything -
Came with Koni Yellows, Eibachs up front and 600# rated in the rear.
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In case this is helpful for other, I found this reference for rubber resistance to chemicals due to their swell. EPDM has excellent resistance to polyethylene glycol (DOT4), and HNBR (fuel injector line) has good resistance. https://www.marcorubber.com/o-ring-chemical-compatibility-chart-11.htm
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dig it
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Volvo Oem angle flange downpipe and converter like new
Scootdiggity replied to Scootdiggity's topic in Group Buys And For Sale Feed
Other buyers went silent 450 plus shipping -
I participated in one mile race recently. As I was allowed to run 270 km/h (168 mph) max (because I don't qualify for faster run) I managed to get 268 km/h. I had to let off the throttle in the end. There are pretty strict rules for local one mile race. I am in A class (up to 2L turbo engines). If I want to go faster than 270 km/h then these are the rules: 1. The competitor must wear a special non-flammable driving suit, socks and balaclava. 2. The competitor must wear footwear that covers the ankle. 3. The competitor must wear gloves made either fully of leather or of leather on the inside and non-flammable 100% wool on the outside. The gloves must partially cover the sleeves. Perforated gloves are forbidden, irrespective of the hole size. 4. Only SNELL or SFI homologated helmets are allowed. Homologation may be expired. 5. The driver must wear a special neck support. FHR neck support is strongly recommended. 6. The driver’s seat must have 5-point seatbelt with 3“ wide belts in compliance with at least SFI 16.1 requirements. 7. The car must have a FIA compliant rollbar (see http://www.fia.com/sites/default/files/regulation/file/2012-DessinsDrag_09.12.11.pdf, „Drawings", drawing 12). 8. The rollbar must be welded or bolted with metal plates to the main structures (frame, subframe) as required by FIA rules. 9. In case of manual transmission, the use of standard flywheel is allowed only in case a flywheel protector in compliance with SFI 6.1, 6.1w, 6.2 or 6.3 requirements is used. If there is no such production flywheel protectors available, the flywheel protector must be made of at least 6.35mm thick steel, be firmly fixed and surround the flywheel 360 degrees. The flywheel protector is not used in case of the use of non-standard flywheel in compliance with SFI 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 or 1.5 requirements. 10. All oil and fuel hoses and lines must be connected with thread joints, the use of clamp joints is prohibited. And if I want to go over 290 km/h: 11. It is strongly recommendable to use FHR neck protection. 12. The driver’s seat must have a firmly fixed backrest, which leans on the horizontal pipe of the rollbar (pipe C, see http://www.fia.com/sites/default/files/regulation/file/2012-DessinsDrag_09.12.11.pdf, Drawings", drawing 16). 13. Homologated (FIA Technical List No 16) fire distinguishing system is mandatory. The gauge on the fire distinguisher must show green and the fire distinguisher must have a valid label of inspection. If an electrically engageable system is used, it must have a separate battery, available to be checked. 14. The car must have a metal external main electricity switch (positioned either on the rear panel of the car or the panel beneath the windscreen), which must cut the battery, alternator, lights, ignition and other circuits and stop the engine. The switch must be marked with a blue triangle with a side length of 80 mm and not more than 200 mm. 15. The car must be equipped with a cardan ring with dimensions 6 mm x 50 mm x 360 degrees placed no further than 152 mm from the front cardan cross. And over 300 km/h: 16. The car must be equipped with a braking chute or chutes in compliance with FIA requirements. The splint of the chute must be removed immediately before the racing attempt at the starting line. Not saying that these rules are too much, but don't think I'll go faster than 270 km/h in near future. For 300+ km/h car should have 650hp or more.
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Curious, what shocks and springs are you using with your Kaplhenkes?
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Cylinder head replacement options for S70
troyhyde replied to ArMiGer's topic in Performance Modifications
You can use any turbo head prior to VVT. (prior to 1999)- 1 reply
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What about the oil pump, was that replaced when the motor was built? If not did you check the rotor wear? Any pics of that?
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I would have to disagree on the coilover/winter statement. I live in WI and I've had kaplhenke's for four years, adjusting them twice a year, without the slightest issue. A good coat of silicon spare when installed and never-seize every time I adjust them.
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My first and worst build
Wesdunns70t5m replied to Wesdunns70t5m's topic in Performance Modifications
So I got the head off today. The piston in the #2 cylinder can be moved back and forth in the cylinder, that a "clunk" can be heard when it hits the cylinder wall. Sounds like I need to find a good machine shop, and order some h beams and wiseco's. -
Well I finally received my wisco pistons today, they sure are nice. Dropped it all off to machine shop for measurements . I really wanted rods checked because I got them from maxspeed, not saying anything bad just want to make sure. If I can figure out how to put pictures on here ill show the new stuff as I go.
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06 R calipers - wheel balance weights rubbing
erikv11 replied to erikv11's topic in FWD/AWD 1999 - 2010
Well that's good news, thanks Andy. - Last week
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Vacuumed both Rs. Black R just crossed 500k kms/310k mi.
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Could be Part Numbers or Phallus Nodules.. you are in San Francisco..
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Is myswedishparts,com a safe and reliable online vendor?
jfox replied to jfox's topic in Aftermarket Vendors
It turns out they are based in Plano, TX, close enough for me to drive over at lunch. I called and confirmed they had the part on hand and when and picked it up. With tax it was less than the shipping cost. I cannot comment on the online experience with them, but the local pickup option was just fine for me. -
What are P/N's?
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As long as you're not using a MLS head gasket, you don't need to machine the block and head. If you are using a MLS gasket, get everything machined or you'll be repeating the job. Shiny isn't critical for a proper seal on the new gasket. Make sure there aren't any pieces of old gasket left behind and the new gasket will seal. I'd use a rubber scraper blade to remove as much as you can, then use a chemical gasket remover. Lastly, I'd spray the surface with brake parts cleaner to remove any residue and leave the aluminum fairly clean.
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thanks I think I'm going to swap in my spare transmission and then change all the bearings in this gearbox to become my spare.
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Good to know! Thank you! I have all of the originals bagged up and labeled where they go so it should be pretty easy to check.
