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Engine temp gauge not working ... new ECT/thermostat already
gdog replied to 98t5M's topic in FWD/AWD 1998 and Prior
Sounds like an issue with either the ECT connector and/or the wiring to it. Disconnect the ECT sensor and ohm the brown wire (on harness side) to ground; should be zero ohms. Open or significantly higher than 0 ohms is an issue. If that's fine you can check to see if you have 5v with key in run on the other wire. Could also try shorting the ground and sensor wires on the harness side with a jumper wire. Then when key in run, gauge should go all the way up, but may take a few seconds. If it doesn't, you got an issue with either the ground or sense wire. If it works as expected, then maybe you have poor connection at the connector. Here's a link that helps explain: https://www.freeasestudyguides.com/diagram-ect-a8.html - Yesterday
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Engine temp gauge not working ... new ECT/thermostat already
98t5M posted a topic in FWD/AWD 1998 and Prior
98 s70 t5 Soo early last week my engine temp gauge was fine, got in the car Thursday and noticed the needle was not moving past the bottom line on the gauge. It does however fall below the bottom line when the key is off and immediately jumps to the bottom line when I turn the key. I checked the coolant temp with my scanner and it was reading around 196F once the car had warmed up, which is normal. Today I threw a coolant temp sensor at it and still have the same problem. Any ideas? Thanks -
Loud Noise When Driving between 45-55mph
MrWinkey replied to Estey_T5M's topic in FWD/AWD 1998 and Prior
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Federals have always seemed to run a size a wide. A 215/40-17 is more like a 225/40-17.
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FIGHT FIGHT FIGHT!!!
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That's a big reason why I'm taking a look at other options too. I just want something to have fun with........ and I'm still new to the scene, so I'm not super competitive at this point either. lol Have you noticed issues with their sizing? I was reading a few posts online about them and some were saying that they're larger in size than other tires in the same size.
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please link me to your 2nd qtr stats there please. F your tax credits. I'm losing all my home office right offs, lots of expenses i used to right off.
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What Did You Do To Your Car Today.
bmdubya1198 replied to scout01's topic in Off-topic/Deleted Posts
Got most of my manual swap done this past weekend. M56 is installed and I buttoned up the interior yesterday. I've been busy the past two days with my brother's '92 Miata that we're manual/1.8 swapping after the 1.6 had a couple failed valve stem seals (because who fixes bad valve stem seals, pfff....) Anyway, I just need to finish assembling everything in the engine bay and it's good to go! I also need a new timing belt and some other engine parts, but the swap itself is just about done. -
Is anyone running the ard spool control wheel with the 19t? Anyone happy with it as far as power output? I'm running alot slow in the 1/4 mile than my 16t with minimal mod changes not including the 19t
- Last week
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Love it! A Whiteblock swap into my '80 264 is high on my want list.
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a little pic update. IMG_2307.mp4
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Loud Noise When Driving between 45-55mph
gdog replied to Estey_T5M's topic in FWD/AWD 1998 and Prior
@OP: you really didn't give enough info to determine what the issue is. But for methods on checking the wheel bearings: -
One psi?! This is @Piet's algo (as implemented by @venderbroeck) so it switches on the wmi based on load. I was switching at 5.25 ms (which corresponds to about 6.5 to 7 psi boost) but recently bumped that up to 6 ms. Probably use about 2/3 gallon a week I'd say. It's my DD. You're historical!!
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A lot of people say the RSR's or RSRR's get gummy after long stints but we've never had a problem. The RE71Rs are super fun/sticky but they marble up corners. I think everyone just knows its a cheater tire (no where near 200 tread wear). I just like the Federals for the bang for the buck. I'm sure everything similar is better (RE71, AD08, Rivial, RS4, V720) but for like $400 for all four tires. I can't complain at all. I'll take a .1 second hit for saving hundreds of dollars.
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I figured I would document my wrenching adventures as I have been wrenching exclusively on both RWD and FWD Volvo's for several years now to pass the time (and money). I test drove a cheap 1995 Volvo 850 turbo on craigslist and became addicted to boosting in a T5, the car was faster than I thought it would be (honestly). I bought the car, my first 850 turbo, for $900 from this chick who dented the left-front fender, broke the left-front fender, and a loud tick coming from the motor (which later turned out to be a bad A/C compressor.) All was looking alive and well for this car, I even scored an identical matching fender from another Volvohead for $25. I bought another matching mirror from Ebay also. Everything was great until Christmas day when a coworker gave me his gift by nailing it with his 1500 Silverado doing a all sorts of damage worse than what I started out with in the first place. I cut my losses, parted out the car, kept the running motor (I had even installed a Continental timing belt and water pump kit that only saw about 10,000 miles). I began to hunt for another cleaner (and physically unmolested) Volvo 850 but a sedan this time, I had been getting the itch for a cleaner 850 I can start doing some tasteful performance mods to. I was getting desperate in finding a rust-free 850 in my area of New Mexico at a decent price. I got in contact with a seller in Phoenix, Arizona who was selling a clean Volvo 850 sedan who's daughter ended up overheating and killing a week before, so lucky me? Not really. I ended up taking advantage of my California trip and picked up a clean "reliable, low-mile" 850 sedan. The vehicle looked in really good condition, inside and out; this is definitely one of the cleanest Volvo 850's I have seen lately. I test drove it good, everything seemed fine so I ended up coughing up $1350 for it considering its condition. I tested the car around the LA area before taking the plunge and attempting to drive it back to my hometown of Albuquerque 10 hours away. Everything seemed to check out.....until I started to get close to the CA-AZ border and the car started to overheat. Big whoop, I was crying about the cost of getting the car back home than the actual condition of the car itself. I don't think the owner knew but the motor had been opened up before considering the sloppy black goop sandwiched between the sections of the engine block. The spark plugs were also numbered from 1 to 5 so I could tell no genius was not under the hood any time recently. I didn't want anybodies sloppy seconds on this motor anyways so I began to swapping the motor right away. The old motor will get salvaged. The donor motor was leaky so I changed as many seals as I could on the block including the front main seals, front camshaft seals, oil thermostat seals, and rear main seal. I also had purchased a 15G turbo from another 850T a while back and rebuilt it with a 15G rebuild kit from Amazon which I swapped into this donor motor. The engine is now dropped in, everything is connected. The car now has a crank-no-start condition. Fuel pressure is present but I have yet to check for spark. If spark is present, I will re-check the timing. The engine was spun by hand after redoing the timing on the motor so I might be off by a tooth. I hope to report back to the blog with some success.
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Oh sweet! I'll take a look at both of those and see how much they are compared to the RE71R up here. I have an extra set of Volans and was thinking of using them as a dedicated set of wheels for autocross. Would the RSR or RSRR be okay for track use too? I've heard the RE71Rs don't hold up well to extended heat and will pretty much melt away after a few hot laps.
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Because you said, " I thought compression was in the coolant but no coolant missing,no overheating,no coolant in the oil." That indicated everything is working fine. The coolant system works under pressure, by opening the cap while engine is HOT , you release that pressure and coolant/water comes out immediately. When you put water back in and close the cap, there is air in the system which will self bleed if you don't constantly opening a hot coolant system. Did you use 50% coolant/50% water? Sounds there is nothing to be concern.
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Another $169 BILLION repatriated in the 2nd quarter. Now $464 BILLION in the first half of 2018 alone! this represents 25% of overseas cash that our companies have had sitting idle during the Obama years. Companies FINALLY paying tax on that cash because rates are low enough. Finally makes sense to bring it home, and put it to work...invested in American ventures. Trump waving his "magic wand". Jobs coming back. Every policy of Barack's is getting unwound, and massive prosperity and investment is the result. Socialism is being repudiated by actual RESULTS every single day. Media tells us that Americans hate record high GDP, record high Tax collections, record high wages, and record high measured optimism. Media tells us that Americans hate record low unemployment for minorities, youth, and those without a high school diploma. Media tells us that America is about to vote in a massive BLUE WAVE to RESIST all this prosperity. EVERY SINGLE DEM IN CONGRESS voted against the tax rate cuts. Let that sink in.
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If this is the 2.4L 5 cylinder turbo engine, it is virtually identical to whatever is done on an S60 of the same year. Look at the posts on this forum, you'll see a wealth of information. Be aware, that you have an ME7 ECU, and that does NOT take kindly to a BOV. Better to get a proper tune. The ECU will try very hard to control the engine, and will likely defeat the purpose of the BOV. This will not do anything to improve reliability.
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Loud Noise When Driving between 45-55mph
BlackBrick replied to Estey_T5M's topic in FWD/AWD 1998 and Prior
When my bearings went, it wasn't more or less pronounced on turns. It was just all the time, especially at lower speeds (30-40) I could hear it slightly when turned wheel by hand. Replaced both bearings (F.A.G. only (which is Volvo OEM)) and noise is gone. -
2000 C70 vacuum leak... I am pretty sure
JA VOLVO replied to JA VOLVO's topic in FWD/AWD 1999 - 2010
Still no bad behavior to report. I did check everything vacuum related I could find and replaced that last hose with silicone. though it "fixed" itself before I did anything. I will report back if this occurs again. Thanks for the help. -
Pioneer AVIC-F900BT Head Unit with Bezel and Volvo Harness. $300 Shipped Con US
andyb5 replied to MattyXXL's topic in Group Buys And For Sale Feed
This is a great deal, I love the F700BT in my R. Good luck with the sale Matty! -
Post A Picture Of Your Latest Purchase
gmsgltr replied to BlackT5's topic in Off-topic/Deleted Posts
DAT WALL DOE^ Here is me racing my 855R, "Wait, I have to connect my battery. Wait, I need a jump. Ok, wait, my throttle plate gets stuck sometimes, ok wait im not finished tuning." -
Loud Noise When Driving between 45-55mph
Volvo5.0 replied to Estey_T5M's topic in FWD/AWD 1998 and Prior
You can usually confirm a wheel bearing noise and identify which side on a road test on an open road with no cars around. Get the car up to speed and when you hear the noise, gently swerve left and then right. Depending on which bearing is bad, you should hear the noise quiet down some when you take the load off of it when swerving. For example, when you swerve right you are taking the load off the right side and increasing the load on the left side.
