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- Yesterday
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Gacuro joined the community
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I would guess black wire is a ground? if it goes back together and doesn't work, run that somewhere on the chassis so that it can be grounded and go from there. Weird though!
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71_144S joined the community
- Last week
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I had to replace the fuel pump at 180,000 due to leakage and noise. From experience I purchased a Volvo fuel pump; this pump then failed at 192,000 so I sent it in on warranty (FCP, the Best) and purchased the identical pump which I just installed. However, when hooking up the plugs I find that this pump has one extra connection that I cannot find a mate for anywhere so I am asking if someone can help by letting me know either where the plug goes, or if it is not used on my model. The plug to which I am referring is the WHITE one, a single male connector with a BLACK wire going to it, in the center of the photo between the two black plugs. Many Thanks in advance.
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I had to replace the fuel pump at 180,000 due to leakage and noise. From experience I purchased a Volvo fuel pump; this pump then failed at 192,000 so I sent it in on warranty (FCP, the Best) and purchased the identical pump which I just installed. However, when hooking up the plugs I find that this pump has one extra connection that I cannot find a mate for anywhere so I am asking if someone can help by letting me know either where the plug goes, or if it is not used on my model. The plug to which I am referring is the WHITE one, a single male connector with a BLACK wire going to it, in the center of the photo between the two black plugs. Many Thanks in advance.
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All brand new, never installed. Includes: -VDO Vision Series Analog Gauges 150121 -Lotek Single Gauge Pod (Black) for 850/X70 -ECS TDI Install Kit - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-vdo-parts/tdi-boost-gauge-install-kit/con007/ Price is $70 shipped ConUS OBO. -
hey it's me Mahk WahBehg
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Boston Volvo has pretty good pricing as well and never had an issue with customer service (other than that thick Bahsten accent).
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boblikan joined the community
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Joebox joined the community
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So I just got my first Volvo. 2000 s70. Picked it up for 1000 bucks. Needs thermostat sensor and heater core. I got heater core and sensor. Gonna put them In tomorrow. What to do next. Any advice. Milage is 232xxx with all scheduled maintenance. One owner
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Ok.
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These are reps that came with the car. Good enough for me at this point in my life. Very few if any car parts have come into our current house. Now that I have adequate garage space, it really hasn't been an issue.
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@gilber33Did you disassemble and spit polish those wheels like that set of white and gold with red center cap BBS's you did back in 2010? Did Katherine let them come into the house this time?
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This is why I quit using Tasca. While their prices were generally cheapest the shipping costs often made them just about the same price if not more expensive than FCP and IPD. I also use Volvopartswebstore which is the web catalog for Oak Park, IL Volvo so shipping from them is quick for me (their site is the best resource for me in pulling up parts diagrams and examining the componentry). If I'm heading down into the city I'll go pick up from them or I'll drop by Lisle who also have an extensive parts department.
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If you own a 1998-2000 S/V70 or a 1998-2005 C70 and ever swap out your ECC with another module pulled from a junk car then you need to be aware that the year of the car and year of the new module matter. I'm opening a new thread for a thread I opened back in 2013 (now archived) because I finally found the resolution and it's one of those WTF moments of looking deep into the heart of how complicated the Electronic Climate Control is and where it gets its inputs from to spin up the fan and maintain temperature. See the link below and I've recopied the description of the problem so someone else finds it if they search. Here's the solution copied from @sleddriver over at MVS and linked back to his thread. https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=78577&p=518717#p428897 "The key was programming the ECC using my indy's Autodiagnos Volvo scanner. As previously stated, there are several features that can be adjusted. The one that solved this problem was found here: Speed Signal Note: In order for the new ECC CM to function correctly, the speed signal must be programmed. From and including production week 832, the ECC CM has been updated with a new function for the programming of the speed signal from COMBI. This is because the functionality of the COMBI has been changed. Previously COMBI had two output signals; a 12 pulsed and a 48 pulse signal. The new COMBI will only have a 12 pulsed speed signal. Therefore the ECC CM is connected to the 12 pulsed signal. The new ECC CM replace the older versions and can be installed both new & older cars. To obtain the correct functionality, the new ECC CM must be programmed for the correct type of speed signal. The new COMBI has the text "MAX" instead of a digit at the max. fuel level in the fuel gauge. On older COMBI the ECC CM must be programmed for 48 pulses. On new, they must use 12 pulses. When I entered programming mode, the ECC reported it was set to a speed signal of 12 pulses. I changed it to 48 pulses. After driving off, I noticed that I could now manually set both the air temp and cabin blower speed and the later would remain CONSTANT regardless of vehicle speed." So essentially here's the way it works: Model: 1998 ECC: 1998 (no change necessary) ECC: 1999+ need to change the ECC CM to 48 pulses Model 1999+ ECC: 1998 need to change the ECC CM to 12 pulses ECC: 1999+ (no change necessary) Symptoms if the ECC don't match as described above and the settings are not changed: Blower motor slows down or even cuts off once the car accelerates to 35-40 MPH / ~2000 RPM. Once the car slows to below 1000 RPM the fan starts to spin back up and comes to full speed once the car comes to a complete stop. The fan still blows some air so it's not completely off - usually. I'm fully aware that the AC spins down / cuts off when the car goes into boost / accelerates beyond ~3000 RPM - the AC is not on in this scenario. Settings when this happens: 1. Set the ECC fan switch to full (all the way to the right) or to Auto (all the way to left) - really any setting besides 0 but it's most noticeable when the blower is running full. 2. Set the temp switch for both driver and passenger side to anything above cold (fully turned down to the blue) or full hot (turned to red) 3. Set air circulation to outside air Settings when this doesn't happen: 1. When temp switch is to cold (fully turned down to the blue) or to hot (fully turned up to the red) or 2. When air circulation is set to recirculate internal air or 3. The defrost mode is turned on for the front blower -
The C70 looks incredible, absolutely factory fresh. Where are you finding all these brand-new OEM parts? If you find another black walnut steering wheel, let me know, a piece of the wood on mine sadly cracked off badly earlier this year 😞 It doesn't look too bad glued up (a weird gap appeared somehow), but I'd eventually like to make it mint
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The e30 at Road America. Whole family fits in it (for a few more months at least).
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no, because he didnt make the thread. it would be too easy to use that thread
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Aren't these the same things?
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I have my eye's on you.
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Merge is complete and stats and search index are rebuilding now.
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When are you planning on doing it, or has it already occurred? (posted 20 hours ago)
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I literally just got a free set of LEDs to test in the S70 ABMS, havent installed them yet. Maybe I will tonight and letcha know.
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Art Starter joined the community
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I did a minimal amount of research (youtube reviews) before purchasing Techmax LEDs from Amazon and I'm happy with them. They are in my 1997 Lexus LS400 in Depo Crystal housings. I don't have a picture readily available, but can get one. The low beams and high beams are separate bulbs and the low beams are adequate once adjusted. The beam seems to maybe not extend quite as far as the originals, but the light is more "pure" i guess you could say, way more bright and clear. But the high beams, holy crap. It's like daytime. (I never get flashed using low beams) I also have cheap generic LED sealed beam conversions in my old Chevy van and while I'm not really satisfied with the lows, the high beams are unreal. I don't know what brand those were. I have also been doing research on what LED brands would work best in my 2003 Lexus LX470 which has projectors for the low beams, and in that application, nobody seems to be happy with any LEDs, and instead recommend HID or Halogen. It seems like a crap shoot. Just order whatever you get from Amazon so you can get a refund if they suck lol.
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Year: 2001 Make and Model: Volvo V70 XC Exterior Color: Polar Blue Metallic Interior Color: Oak – Leather Seating & Trim Engine: 2.4L, 5 Cylinder, Intercooled Turbocharged 197HP/210TQ Transmission: 5 Speed Automatic All Wheel Drive Odometer Reading: 173,883 miles Location of Vehicle: Levittown, Pennsylvania, USA Options: Touring Package = Heated 8-Way Power Driver & Passenger Seats, 3 Programmable Memory Side Mirrors and Driver Seat, Trip Computer, HU 613 AM/FM/CD/Cassette, Auto Dimming Rear Mirror and HomeLink Remote Garage Door Opener. Standard Options = Power Sun Roof w/Shade, Dual Climate Control, Built-in (flip up/down) Rear Child Seats 2, Rear Cargo Cover, Carpeted Floor Mats (4) + Carpeted Cargo Area Mat. Extras: CURT Class 2 Trailer Hitch (used for 4 bicycle rack). Various spare parts IMAGE.PNG (17.57 KIB) VIEWED 9 TIMES Additional Information: 2-owner car, 5/2020 PA State Inspection and Emission. Meticulously maintained both mechanically and appearance. Oil and filter changed every 3,000 miles Mobile1 Synthetic & Mahle filters (no oil usage between changes). Fuel Filter Changed @ 95k and at 150k miles. Upgraded front rotors and caliper brackets to XC90 (present wear is 20%). Timing belt, water pump, tensioner & idler pulley (Volvo Parts) changes @ 110k miles. Spark plugs (E3) and coil packs (Volvo-just because) changed @ 120k miles. Throttle Body Cleaned and PCV Breather System Kit @ 130k miles. Cat-Back Exhaust 133k miles. New (Volvo) springs 4, Bilstein struts 4, and Lower Control Arm/Ball Joints @ 135k miles. Continental, TrueContact tires with around 90% tread remaining, rotated every-other oil change, Road-Force wheel balancing, recent all-wheel alignment. Differential and Angle Gear oils changed, recently checked. Power Steering fluid flushed. Windows recently re-tinted. No previous collision, no rust, original paint, no deeply scratched paint, there are however a few little dings and light scratches (parking lot/shopping cart incidents). Runs and drives “tip-top”. This is a real honest car. Asking Price: $4,000.00 US Contact Information: Private Message Reply to this Thread More Pictureshttps://www.volvoxc.com/forums/album.php?albumid=200
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emersons joined the community
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For real, you need to go to Facebook to get flamed now! My cousin has LEDs in his '91 240, and they work well without being too blinding. That may be a good way to go if they will work in my jewels without projectors, because if I can avoid installing projectors, that's the way I'd like to go. I'll have to research that further. Overall I've been happier with HIDs than LEDs, my cousin has used both in his Volvos. He has 55w HIDs in his S70 with jewels and they are absolutely BLINDING to oncoming traffic. Hell, even driving the car the light against the road hurts my eyes!
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What LEDs would you recommend? I've looked at various options. Haven't pulled the trigger yet. Yes, dropping LEDs in is an option I'm seriously considering because I'm the asshole with HIDs in jewels though to be fair it was that way when I bought the coupe and I almost never drive it at night. But I do drive the S70 which has a set of halogens in stock housings and while I found a pair of pristine stock housing earlier this year in my last pick-n-pull run, I'm looking to produce better light.
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Since everything is being ported into PHP7 I decided to make my life easier and merge down a few sites. S40 Concepts, S60R and V70R.com are being merged into VS. If you had a paid membership on any of those forums it will carry over. Members originally on VS may see a few errors if you had accounts on the other forums. If you did post it up here and I will address as I can. Permissions and forums are rebuilding now so there will be errors. We are talking over 5 million cells so this will take a while.
