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  1. Yesterday
  2. Still curious as to why none of the whiteblocks after a certain year have it. Any time ive see one its been on a 99-2000 car. Maybe it wasnt needed?
  3. Problem solved. User error. The vacuum hose to the compressor had slid off. That one is very difficult to get on properly!
  4. tighe

    Andy's 2000 V70 R

    When I was first learning to drive my grandpa took me out in his 71 mustang, in which I had a similar oh shit moment. Lost all braking power while at speed. He talked me through quickly downshifting, and while it wasn't a close call it certainly could have been if our luck was worse! Not trying to repeat that! I just ordered braided lines for my V70 from FCP as a result of this post. Thanks for the reminder!
  5. Last week
  6. . . Volvo TSD Road Rally – Fall 2019 *** All Volvos & Saabs welcome! *** Get ready for another spectacular fall drive! If you haven't made it for one of our driving events, you'll be in for a treat... This will be a TSD (Time-Speed-Distance) Road Rally. Each car sets off with obscure route instructions. By following all rules-of-the-road, you will record various way-points, search for landmarks, and answer fun bonus questions. It's like a scavenger hunt in your Volvo! Its fun and easy... no need for prior experience! Don't miss it! Bring along a spouse, friend, or relative to navigate... or pair up with a partner when you arrive. Date: Sun. Nov. 17, 2019 Time: 10:30 am - 3:00 pm Driver / Navigator meeting at: 10:30 am Starting at: Dunkin Donuts, 1015 Farmington Ave., Farmington, CT We will be heading north from Farmington, then east across the CT River, and finally south into Hebron where we congregate for a late lunch. We will cover 105 miles over 3 hours. There is a planned pit stop with restroom and snacks available. Come out and enjoy the Volvo fun, twisty roads, and scenic views before winter sets in! Southern New England Chapter | Volvo Club of America https://sites.google.com/site/snevcoa/ . .
  7. On very slippery surfaces it does not surprise me that you can get no ABS action but lock up the wheels. Design limitations and such. Clearly the easiest course of action would be to read the codes. In lieu of that there are a few more things that can be checked. As the system randomly turns on when turning there might be something wrong with the wiring for the front sensors. While the sensor(s) l/r can be fine, the plug or wires to the plug can fail. Or one of the tone rings has an issue. I have seen them crack from corrosion, miss teeth or not sit properly on the axle(s).
  8. Don't know much about 960 engines, but both my 850 engines started consuming oil after 125,000 miles because their valve stem seals notoriously go hard and leak . I burn 1/2 qt. per month. And I changed oil every 3000 miles/6 months with synthetic over the last 12 years. They are a known issue.
  9. nice work and glad it was a safe and easy fix
  10. The ABS does not engage in a full panic stop situation. Last winter I was able to lock all 4 wheels if I push the pedal hard enough. The only time I get any ABS activity is when I'm on the brakes as well as turning a corner. (Imagine turning at an intersection with a green light.. Not coming to a stop, but just slowing and turning at the same time) Sometimes in that situation, I do feel the ABS pulsing for maybe a second sometimes (definitely not locking any wheels up so not sure why it would run). Not a consistent thing. The speedometer has always worked. I have checked the main plug and it seems to be clean, pins straight, and engaging fully. The 2 wires to the motor look and feel brand new and the plug is intact and fully engaged.. I'll keep checking things. Might just send the module in to rule it out.
  11. Sounds like your engine is fine. Would recommend a high mileage oil like Valvoline Max Life; I'm running 10-40 year round now. That should cut down on consumption a bit.
  12. andyb5

    Andy's 2000 V70 R

    Got a good wash in a couple weeks ago, and gave everything a coat of CarPro Reload to help maintain the protection the CarPro CQuartz ceramic coating offers. Reload is awesome, I can't recommend it enough for a "spray wax" type application once every month or two to keep everything glossy and sealed up. The results are pretty legit Then a few days later on my way to work (while the forum was "frozen") the biggest "oh shit" moment I've ever had with this car happened. I was behind a dump truck heading towards a red light down the hill next to my apartment when the brake pedal went soft and traveled another inch towards the firewall. Realizing this meant something had significantly failed in my brake system, I downshifted and stood on the brake pedal to get the car safely stopped without hitting the truck in front of me. After successfully holding the stop on the hill, I was able to turn and limp up the hill about half a mile home without needing my brakes. A quick walk around the car revealed brake fluid splattered on the frame rail behind my passenger side rear wheel. I stick my phone up behind the wheel and this is what I found: The stock rubber hose (factory original to the best of my knowledge) had failed close to the caliper. It was a matter of time for these hoses - the outer rubber and fabric lining had deteriorated to nearly the point of failure at a couple other points too. Moral of the story - don't trust 20 year old rubber. I had a set of braided lines I was planning to install, so a couple days later, I took advantage of a sunny Saturday to get the braided lines installed. They didn't get delivered in time to install that day, but I have new pads/rotors and ebrake cables/shoes/hardware to install on the rear. The calipers are both in good shape, so no further work needed on those. Hit 219,00 miles on the chassis earlier this week. That makes it 10,000 miles since installing the B5234T9 in January, so a total of 137k on the engine. (I'm mostly typing all that out so I can refer back to it at some point in the future)
  13. The ABS is part of how the braking system was designed so removal would be ill advised. Beside providing ABS functionality the unit also handles the EBD (Electronic Brakeforce Distribution) so you'd worsen the cars braking capabilities. Does the ABS not work at all or does it engage every single time you brake? You have a speedometer output so the system hasn't failed entirely. An age related failure point besides cold solder joints in the control unit is the main connector and related wiring. If any of the pins in the big connector are corroded / misaligned / have insufficient contact it will cause issues. Same of the connector itself does not seat properly - either not locking into position or not enough mounting pressure. Wiring to the pump unit itself can also fail in non obvious ways, for example the wire(s) may look fine but will fall apart once touched.
  14. Last time used thin metal handsaw, before tried red hot kitchen knife, both works well, knife melts that plastic slowly as it has fiberglass
  15. 97 Volvo GLT I replaced air intake from MAF to turbo with the Snabb aluminum tube, replaced the OEM air cleaner with an open air intake, and replaced the MAF from another working 850. I forgot to take notes on how I hooked up TCV vacuum lines. When I hook up TCV the way I think it's supposed to be (yellow dot to wastegate, red dot to turbo compressor). I get overboost and code p0243. When I hook up opposite (yellow dot to compressor, red dot to wastegate) I don't get the code, but I get almost no power and a terrible flutter. I also relocated TCV over by ignition coil, so the vacuum lines are much longer. Car otherwise runs fine, and ran fine before all these changes. ???
  16. thanks ...turned out, the front O2 sensor was bad. It worked temporarily, but then kept throwing the code because that push in switch lever that connects the two came undone. This time, I put a zip tie around it and all is good.
  17. New OE Volvo 850R clutch disc $140 shipped
  18. My dad did the re-soldier. He is some sort of certified professional when it comes to soldiering and micro soldering, so he definitely knows what he's doing. The unit that he repaired in my C70 about 7 years ago is still working just fine. I do have an unopened module from the junkyard. I might eventually send that in to Midwest ABS. I just have a hard time spending money on a feature that I don't really like anyways lol. I guess at this point it probably would have been cheaper/easier.
  19. Well, if anyone ever comes to the same issue I managed to get two probably best bolt-on WGA on my desk. They were identical Forge Motorsports WGA for TD04HL both bent rod. Only difference was the piston type of the one of them and diaphragm type of the other. Forge offers both on its website So long story short: Piston type WGA has 2 rubber orings similar to brake caliper. Even if well greased, it adds some friction, approx 2.5 psi of air pressure just to start moving the piston without the spring. This drawback can be reduced by leaving only one oring, but anyway its a significant problem On the other hand diaphragm type WGA worked much better, it cranked at 100 mmHg (I used a high quality medical grade manometer from my lab) and I was able to adjust the correct backpressure of 4.5 psi as per my 1999 ME7 repair manual. At this backpressure the rod was pushed outwards by approx 2 mm Verdict: piston type WGAs are shittt, same as all "tuner" higher stiffness "20psi" like springs. If you are looking for bolt on WGA for TD04 take one of the forge diaphragm type. Hint - ask for softest green spring, I found it too stiff anyway so modified the spring from OE turbo bypass valve . Yes, the diaphragm type wga has less movement range, but if you have ported hotside and polished wastegate leaf its enough as the wga will have less duty cycle.
  20. justanotherhumanoid online Junior MemberJoin: Aug 2018Posts: 20 about 17 hours ago · #1 R brake upgrade parts list / considerations Hello, I'm researching how to do an upgrade to R brakes on a 2006 2.5T AWD and have one or two questions someone here might be able to help me with... really I just want to make sure I have all the necessary hardware accounted for before I start, so if anyone can back me up and make sure I'm not missing anything, I'd appreciate it. Or if anyone has any tips / recommendations I'd love to hear them too. Also, this might help out anyone else considering the same upgrade: 1. 4x calipers (can't forget those...with spring clips and guide pins) 2. 4x 330mm rotors, pads (probably oem or brembo rotors and akebono pads from forum recommendations) 3. 2x front "impulse limiters" aka steering stop arms (left=30748624, right=30748625) (these appear to be different than those on the 2.5T so I don't think I can reuse mine) 4. Caliper bolts (also different than 2.5T hardware) (front top = 985345, front lower = 985428, rear upper and lower = 985453) 5. 2x Oscillation dampers for the front, (identical for left and right = 9485145) 6. R dust shields (should attach with a single screw which I can reuse off my current shields if I'm correct). 7. 8x rubber bleeder screw caps 8. 8x pad backing plates References: Thread: https://forums.swedespeed.com/showthread.php?152248-S60R-V70R-Caliper-Hub-Breakdown-List&p=1641959&viewfull=1 Diagrams: https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=238041&ukey_product=1186867 https://www.volvopartswebstore.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=1180193&ukey_make=865&ukey_model=12009&modelYear=2006&ukey_category=7855&ukey_driveLine=11324&ukey_trimLevel=24650 Thanks all, rock on. -Jimmy
  21. Agree on re-soldering isnt a lifetime solution. I used Ag3Sn97 and it holded for 5 years, but now its cracked again
  22. I just dismantled both the spring and spring less hubs, must say all the components are identical. One just has a spring in one side, other doesn't. The spring definitely helps keeping the hub in max retarded position. Also it seems obviously that in order to reach some cam angle advancement, the oil pressure in a spring-ed hub must reach higher value due to overcome the spring force. I highly recommend checking the hubs for axial play. All my hubs had various wear, but I was able to interchange the guts until complected one nice hub without any play.
  23. Hello everyone, i have a 1995 Volvo 960 Sedan 4spd auto with 156,000 Orginal Miles ( parents drove it short distances all the time ) and i have question about these particular 960 engines. I was told that at some point all these vehicles will consume Oil. My dad owns a 92 960 wagon which also consumes a little. Mine does about i ll say roughly 1qt per 1,200-1,300 Mi ,with Normal Driving (stop and go /highway ). I got the Logbook from my Dad, who is a big fan of his volvo and all records indicate they did replaced the "oil catch can " or something like that, the spark plugs have yet to be replaced but last time the mechanic checked ( was a volvo certified mechanic) they said they were good. The engine does not leak oil at all, runs perfect, in idle when is at its operating temp is smooth and no rpm fluctuations, in resume it runs perfect, even with a/c on, it does not puff smoke and yes it passed inspections, no black sooth either. I use recommend oil, but the manual specifies a higher grade in case of rough driving habits or "excessive oil consumption" , but i do not know much about if a thick oil would slow oil consumption or not. Any ideas?, is it true these Volvos DO consume oil or is just an indication that i need to rebuild-replace the engine itself?. Thanks in advance Gabriel.
  24. Hello everybody !! IM Gabriel R from South East of USA. Currently own a 1995 Volvo 960 Sedan RWD I inherit this one from parents since they decided to get the newest 2017-18 S90 ( go figure how the got convinced to get one since they NEVER wanted to sell this one) so i rescue this volvo from the trade-in they offered them, now is my project i ve been working for a few years and its finally running good Looking forward to get to know more about these legendary vehicles and keep this one good as new..
  25. Heat soak causes the problem = electronic/electrical part, resistance gets high with increased temperature. I'd throw a TPS at it, too.
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