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  2. I picked myself up a 2000 C70 T5 the other week as a second/project car, and I am really inclined of the idea of doing it up a little bit, nothing excessive, but I would like it to be an overall better, higher performance, better handling car at the end of it. Currently it's in the garage for new coilovers and spark plugs to deal with a misfire. The roof was done in 2014, it has been regularly serviced with a pretty spotless MOT record over the 79000 miles and 20 years it has been owned. In terms of things to fix that are not cosmetic I believe it could use a new steering rack, and it has the stopping distance of a 747 jumbo despite new pads so I am forseeing a seized calliper and definitely new discs. Any recommendations on some discs or calipers that will not break my bank? Other than that my intentions are to tune it to a stage 1, potentially look at upgrading the wheels to 18" alloys from a newer volvo model, and maybe a new intake underneath. I am entirely open to suggestions as to what the best/most noticeable/cost efficient upgrades on these cars are, and if anybody has done something similar with a T5 of this era and can help that would be much appreciated. Thanking you all kindly
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  5. My OEM intercooler plastic bottom end exploded off, i think to replace it with this --> https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Performance-all-aluminum-Volvo-Turbo-Intercooler-for-Volvo-850-S70-V70-C70/124245644809?hash=item1ced9e1609:g:rIEAAOSwIBBUZtyu&frcectupt=true Is it good choise?
  6. Nvm I'm a fool and had base caming timing off... Works well now..
  7. The mirror I got was not the oem mirror for the c70. The ad said it had manual dimming but its just a plain rear view mirror. I'll prob just keep it and install it. I found some time to get my fuel filter replaced. It Was fun. The scariest part for me is raising the car onto jack stands. I feel like the car will fall off the hydraulic jack and it freaks me out a bit. Being some what under the car is not as anxiety inducing for me. Once on jack stands you can push and nudge the car and see if it will fall. If you can rock the car and nothing happens you are prob fine. Found a WIX fuel filter at Auto Zone recommended by RobertDIY on Youtube. The bolt that is wet from WD40 is the bolt that holds the fuel filter in place. The bolt just connected to a bracket so you do not need to hold two wrenches to tighten it. The fuel filter on these cars are very easy to replace. I don't think this fuel filter has been replaced in years. How many years I'm not sure. It says VOLVO on it so my guess is after the dealer warranty ran out they never replaced it. I could not find the rear jacking point and I'm disappointed in myself for not waiting to do it safely. I was running out of time before work. Making sure I was safe took three times as long as the job its self. I did however rock the crap out of the car on two wheels and one jack stand. I felt safe after trying to make the jack fail. No failure so I just did the job and got out of there. The beast was dirty because it's raining now over here until winter snow arrives. I noticed gas was pouring out of the old filter when I took it off the connection points. I had the idea of draining the fuel into a water bottle. You can see a bit of debris in the gas when it settled. My coolant was leaking when I had the car up on one side. Dripping onto the ground slowly, I have my eye on it. My window on the driver hand side is not out of place. My whole door needs to be adjusted and raised up about a quarter inch so the windows don't hit each other when I shut the door. I have a few fails to speak of that I'm not proud of. I found out I was putting the wrong octane level gasoline into the old beast for months. I took some time to really read the owners manual and found it needs 91 octane or higher. I now run full premium only and the beast is happier. I have a bad habit of Thinking the car is fixed when it isn't fixed after I brag on the forum. But THIS time I'm pretty sure. I had a bit of a rough idle before some of the work got done on the c70 and I haven't seen another rough idle since changing to premium gas. I have been researching ways to diagnose major problems using signs from your car and how it runs. A good example is the rubber glove PCV test seen above. So far all signs point to "yes" The car is just fine. No smoke out the tail pipe, no gas leaking out the tail pipe, no smoke in the dip stick hole.
  8. Will that work? My trans lost reverse. I can source one locally from 2000 S70 AWD AW50-42le with 129k. Looking ror suggestions.
  9. Last week
  10. Sent a pm. I'll take them. I'm in the north bay also which is convenient.
  11. The processor sends a command which enables pin A16 on the eeprom (see 28f010 eeprom datasheet). This enables the upper 4 sectors (0x10000 to 0x1FFFF) of the eeprom to be read by the processor. It constantly switches between the two blocks, some of the code is duplicated. Please read the six text files here: https://www.piese-volvo.ro/droid/volvo/rev5/ They contain all the info on how the map switching and logging works
  12. Ostrich completely replaces the ROM chip and is just a ROM emulator afaik, and has capability of live tuning. That would suggest that M4.4 constantly uses flash-rom to get values.
  13. as i said before i want to make something like ostrich on modern mcu, to get ability to flash, thats why i am trying to collect information about ecu memory map and so on. where is memory map selector? its just byte or switch or what? ecu retrive data from memory once on power up or it uses flash rom constantly to get values?
  14. Just a heads-up for everyone, the FCP Euro Customer Appreciation Sale ends tonight at midnight, don't miss out on this opportunity to save some money on your next Volvo parts purchase!
  15. The are extra maps added to the 608 binary which can be selected before the engine is started. This is why you have found the extra map at 0x8088. The ecu only uses one map at a time. You can select each map by fully depressing the throttle pedal, then the MIL will flash multiple times depending on which map is selected. The checksums are different because the data in Block 0 is different to Block 1. You really don't need to worry about the checksums though as the tunerpro plugin calculates it for you.
  16. Hellooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
  17. not too many Amazon people here. Might want to try Turbobricks.
  18. Hey Guys, Question on rotors, Old Car Alert here. So Marge, my '68 122 wagon, is getting the drum brakes swapped out for a new rear axle with neat disc brakes. Donation from a '71 P1800, nice setup. Buddy of mine will plug-weld the axle stud holes which are 4.25" center (newer) and machine drill for the older 4.5" bolt circle on the earlier Volvo wheels, 122 and 544. So, what to do about fitting the new rotors? Has anyone welded them up and redrilled? Is there a rotor that was fitted to the 4.5" axles? 140, 240 ? Anyone done this conversion? Cheers Jim
  19. Does anyone know something about memory table 1 and 2 is the data doubled and must be the same at region 1 and region 2? when i choose for example tcv duty cycle 4200 rpm and 40(?throttle?) i get 0x8088 adress in textbox below so should i change it in both memory blocks if i edit values manually? also ive found this words about checksum our M4.4 file has two checksums (one for block 0 - file offset 0x0 - 0xFEFF, and another for block 1 - file offset 0x10000 - 0x1FEFF). After you made corrections in those regions (like lambda disabling) - checksums must be recalculated. Checksum for block 0 is stored at file offset 0xFF00, and for block 1 at file offset 0x1FF00. Ok, checksum procedure is exactly the same for both blocks, its just incrementally adding bytes to 16-bit word. so there is 2 checksums adresses 0xFF00 and 0x1FF00 in 608_rev5bLaunchControlAL.bin from m4.4 wikia there is 0x2368 in 0xFF00 adress and 0xD4FB in 0x1FF00 so there is different data in 2 checksums so wth?
  20. Thanks! Yes I added a crush washer to the coolant sensor as well as thread sealant and torqued to 25nm as per the Bosch datasheet. The oil pump and senor array have about 1" clearance to the rack. I made some changes to make some more room. All 6 engine mounts are Polyeurethane. The engine is basically solidly mounted so Im not too concerned about it moving 3/4-1" and causing contact with the pump. Well see though, this is enough to get me driving for now. Shockproof is only going on rear diff and angle gear. Trans fluid is going to be a special concoction.
  21. Much cleanup work. Nice mileage pic! I also enjoy the Milwaukee M12 equipment - I got one of those stubby impacts a couple years back - really glad I did!
  22. Congrats! Must feel good to have got beyond the first run That coolant sensor (blue tip) is supposed to have a crush washer - did you add one? Also the oil pump & sender looks really close to the PS rack - I would think under hard launch you may get contact from the torque movement. Did you use a rigid mount under the crank? I had to wire my Volvo mount - back with 500AWHP it just ripped them apart otherwise. Make sure you never use that shockproof HD in the transaxle - it will absolutely fuck up your shifts
  23. My driver's side tweeter blew in my C30. The part number is 30752766 I'm having soooo much trouble finding one of these anywhere! Hopefully someone here has one Or two. I don't need the panel just the tweeter. I was also informed that the C70 and S40 Dynaudio tweeters are interchangeable, so if that is true, maybe somebody has those instead? Thanks!
  24. One pair of Eibach wheel spacers for sale $45 shipped PayPal, Venmo, or Zelle accepted Eibach part number 90.1.05.020.5 Specifications: 5mm Spacers Bolt Pattern 5x108 Hub Center 65 Includes extended wheel bolts Applications: 97-00 Volvo V70 Wagon Exc. AWD & Diesel 92-96 Volvo 850 GLT, Sedan & Wagon Incl. Turbo 92-96 Volvo 850 T5R Exc. S/Lev.
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