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  2. Rough clutch pedal

    I've checked out Geevs' car and my pedal feels exactly the same once warmed up. Smooth when it's cold, then has this kind of bumpiness when depressing the pedal once everything is warmed up. My pedal didn't feel like this until a week or two after I finished my manual swap. I don't find it noticeable while driving the car
  3. Today
  4. Thanks, i will give it a try
  5. Brake Light bulb out Warning on dash....

    Thanks Mr. Humpty for your response. That circuit board could be a bear to get to. I had some fun just getting my fingers in the open hole in the back of the red plastic lens portion.
  6. Dip in RPMs only when in stop and go traffic

    They can both be tested for resistance, but that doesn't exactly mean it's good. I would recommend just grabbing one of each from the junkyard and swapping them. Here's a video for the crank sensor.
  7. Thanks, i will take a look there. Is there any way to test them or you just have to replace them?
  8. Brake Light bulb out Warning on dash....

    Sometimes poor quality bulbs will give you a false warning like that. I'd say if you rule out the bulb have a close look at the metal circuit board on the taillight itself and see if it's broken or if the plastic is melted and deformed.
  9. Hello guys. This should be a simple fix but it is not looking that way. Just purchased a used 2002 V70 (Base) last week and the 1156 bulb says it is out. I replaced the bulb the other night and shortly thereafter the warning is back. Is this perhaps the receptacle that the bulb is housed in? No clue here.
  10. 242 -> 252

    Dig it
  11. a wmi install..

    Just an update: Don't think this issue was AFR related after all, but actually something commonly known as "spark blowout"; essentially the stock ignition system starts to break down under the loads I can now pull with WMI. I.e. need COP conversion to keep going.. Talked about in this thread:
  12. Yesterday
  13. Timing belt

    Not at all, it's a simple job. Just make sure you preload the VVT properly. Both of those cars should have dual VVT. +1, it's an easy job.
  14. How Your Car Sits

    Very nice! Looks great!
  15. Timing belt

    If you're in doubt, change it. They are cheap and it's not a complicated process to do it.
  16. How Your Car Sits

    Out for a rip
  17. Last week
  18. Timing belt

    Thanks for the advice. I'm from NC too. Wilmington. I've never done a timing belt change on a whiteblock but it couldn't be too much different than any other DOHC inline motor.
  19. Timing belt

  20. Sventastic's 850R Daily Driver Project

    I think I know what you're experiencing with the low-speed clacking noise while in gear. I went from a dual-mass flywheel to single-mass (like you have) several years ago and started experiencing that. All mounts and bushings were/are fresh and tight, but could not eliminate it. Kind of like a "trailer-hitch" effect, is I believe how lookforjoe described it, with a metallic clink. I finally discovered that there is just a small amount of rotational slack in the axle itself. Not sure if it's where the splines meet the gearbox, or if it's internal in the m56h itself. Either way, it's not going away. My m56h was already rebuilt two years ago, so it's just a part of life. I believe in my case the dual-mass flywheel was absorbing that slack; it only became noticeable when I converted to a SMFW.
  21. Dip in RPMs only when in stop and go traffic

    That is strange. I've dealt with a similar issue on my GLT for the past 2-3 years, where I'll be stopped at a light and the RPMs will dip and the car will shudder. I've replaced just about everything ignition/fuel related except for the MAF and O2 sensors. Might be worth changing the crank/cam sensors. At one point where the stumble on my car was REALLY bad and it threw a few codes, the crank sensor solved that.
  22. Timing belt

    If the belt looks to be in decent shape, you SHOULD be okay for now, but if there is no record of it being changed you want to take care of it ASAP. There can be multiple modes of failure, from the belt snapping to the tensioner failing to the bearings seizing up in one of the pulleys. All will almost certainly result in bent valves. It's about a $200 job to do it yourself. I'd definitely save for that as soon as you're able. It's not worth pushing it out if you're unsure of the timing components' condition.
  23. Provent Style catch can

    google is your friend
  24. Timing belt

    That is my fear. I understand that this is not a B230 where I could change the timing belt on the side of the road. Honestly I don't have the cash to do the timing belt job until February this coming. Cars run fine and the XC has BFGS and pulls my flatsboat, not looking to get stranded. Believe it or not the XC drives better with load. (Like a boat with trailer). I just want to know if there is anyway of telling that the timing belt needs changed. Sound, appearance?
  25. Timing belt

    Would you drive on a 14 year old tire? Same with a 14 year old RUBBER timing belt, it may "look" fine, but it'll snap and then you'll be looking for a new engine. Timing belt interval is in the owner's manual, free to download. Look them up. https://www.volvocars.com/us/own/owner-info/owners-manuals
  26. Timing belt

    I have 2 Volvo 1 a 2012 C70T5 with 116k. The other an 04 XC70 with 114k. Both cars run fine no problems, but I'm aware that my cars are at the mileage when the belt needs to be changed. I inherited these cars and I don't know if the belts have been replaced. There seems to be no markings of a belt change date anywhere near the cam gear cover. Is there anyway to tell if they are old and about to pop? Or is it kind of like playing Russian roulette?
  27. Yes I believe so. I chose to purchase adaptors rather than splicing wires.
  28. Sventastic's 850R Daily Driver Project

    Yeah it wasn't too bad looking back, but in the moment it felt like a long time (of course)... I just wanted to start driving it, hence why I skipped the reverse lights and throttle cable for now... Including the turbo swap, seals, mounts, everything else I replaced, and everything I did two or three times like installing the shifter and pedals, it was roughly 75 hours of work. The 4 speed is pretty bulletproof and good for highway cruising, but I just hated first and second gear ratios so so much. Made it impossible to have fun around town. My 850R with the automatic was also a complete dog compared to my S70 T5 - stomping second gear was noticeably slower. That may have been down to boost leaks which I've now inadvertently fixed! I haven't noticed too much difference in rpm on the highway, maybe 200rpm? An rpm calculator says the AW42 should be at 2150rpm at 100km/h, and the M56 at 2350rpm I'm not sure I know what you mean by gear rattle so I'd have to say no, I haven't noticed any rattles? I do notice a clacking noise when slowly going over big speedbumps in first gear, must be pressure plate/clutch/flywheel because it doesn't make the noise when the clutch pedal is depressed
  29. Sventastic's 850R Daily Driver Project

    Which ratios do you not agree with as much now? I think I'll be in the honeymoon phase for awhile with it... Man those Porsche brakes must be amazing. That seems like a pretty epic upgrade. I love the look of your car, it's too nice and not fair haha. What suspension and intercooler are you running? Front-mount looks so mean. Yeah it's great! 10km each way and it's just as fast as driving due to traffic. This job is only for the summer though, back to school in the fall.
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