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  1. Yesterday
  2. Interesting. I'm going to try pulling it all the way back and see what happens. Going to have the misses stand behind the car while I move it back to see if anything happens.
  3. Hmm... im manual swapped too... My reverse lights only work if I hold the shifter as far into R as possible if I dont, reverse still works fine but the lights wont stay on. im guess for me its a contact on the switch.
  4. Put it on jack stands and pulled shit apart thinking I had front suspension issues when really it was likely the 40+mph wind gusts that we had Friday on my way home from work lmao.
  5. Vehicle - 1998 S70 T5 Manual Swapped. Main Issue - Reverse lights never got wired up when swap was done years ago. Current Issue - Reverse lights still not working once wired up over the weekend. Items checked / Things done - I've wired the reverse light switch from the switch to the blue/grey and blue wires. (There are 2 solid blue wires, I've tried both) Brand new reverse light switch. While in reverse, lights do not come on. Fuse (27?) is good. Things on the list to check. If Bulbs are good (I looked at them and they seem good but ill go buy 2 new ones just because, unless someone can recommend an LED upgrade.) Resistance at switch (planning on checking during the week) Resistance / Voltage on the blue/grey - blue wires. Possibly tossing the old switch back in to try that. Looking for help on the issue, what else should I be looking for or at to try and remedy the issue.
  6. I parted out a 1996 850 Wagon NA Auto for spares for my own 850, but there are a number of parts I won't need. The car itself has gone to the crusher. Parts available(I can send pictures upon request). All prices are OBO + shipping. Pickup available in Northern Virginia: Interior: Front door speakers $12/pair Rear door speakers $12/pair Speaker grilles(all 4 doors and dash) $12/ea Steering column covers with hardware $15 Passenger sun visor $20 Driver's seat outer trim with power seat switch $18 Front seat track covers(plastic) $8/ea Interior grab handles(set of 4) $15 Ashtray $8 Rear seat center armrest with child booster seat $25 (heavy - will be expensive to ship) Exterior: Wiper arms (front left/right) $10/ea Wiper motor/transmission $25 Fuel door with hinge & actuator $20 Exterior power mirrors Left & right $18/ea Left side door moldings (fender, front door, rear door) $25 Exterior door handles (left front, left rear, right rear available) $5/ea Lights: Wagon 3rd brake lamp $15 Wagon upper taillights(orange turn signal) $20/ea Wagon lower taillights $15/ea Door parts: Door latches (all 4 available) $15/ea Window regulators w/motors & inside door handle mechanism (all 4 available) $20/ea Tailgate parts: Tailgate side trim $8/pair Tailgate handle/molding $15 Tailgate wiper motor/transmission $25 Tailgate wiper arm $15 Tailgate wiring harness $20 Misc: Jack & tool set $20 Please send a PM with your parts request & offer. 🍺
  7. Can't tell if that's the right cable or not. I always look for some reference to Triumph motorcycles, like this: But assuming you do have the right cable, you need to make sure you have hooked up all the ecu power and ground wires, and no loose connections. Just hooking up one or two of them isn't going to do it. Use similar gauge wire that's in the car too.
  8. Last week
  9. Thanks a lot bmdubya1198. Very helpful info.
  10. I’m in the middle of replacing an AW50-42 leg in a 99 S70. I have a lift and all the resources a professional garage offers, but I don’t think anything I’ve done is precluded if you are on a driveway. I thought about lifting the chassis right off the sub-frame/drivetrain, but on thinking through what I needed, I decided that I could could get the engine low enough and get enough stuff out of the way, it should be ok. I did one a couple years ago and it was a sobering 2 days at the end of which I felt drained. This time I decided to go heavy on the prep and to be efficient at the same time. For starters: get rid of the sub-frame completely. Hang the motor with an ability to tip it and drop it significantly. Get the entire front suspension out of the picture This means: hang the motor with bracing or an engine hoist that will allow you to dip the motor down 8-10 inches on the driver’s side and a few inches on the passenger side clear out all the stuff that goes from body to drivetrain including harnesses, Heater core lines, tranny cooler lines, grounds, evap line et cetera. Also, separate the sub-frame from drivetrain. Tranny mounts, harness connections, steering rack, all engine mounts. A word about steering rack. Undo the steering rack bolts from the subframe and the tie rod ends from the knuckle. Also detach the driver’s sway bar link at the sway bar and detach. The sway bar goes with the sub-frame and the steering rack will stay and hang off the steering column and the passenger tie rod/knuckle. Remove the control arms from the sub-frame on both sides. remove both axles. Remove the brake caliper assembly from the rotor, remove the rotor, suspend the brake caliper in the strut tower with a bungee or whatever remove the strut nuts on the top of the driver’s strut tower and remove the entire strut/knuckle/control arm. lower the sub-frame Disassemble the rear 2-piece engine mount and remove. Set up a 30 mm with 2’ of extensions on the crank and rotate the crank and remove the 6 T-40 torque converter bolts visible from the passenger side rear of the motor looking toward the driver’s side Work your way around the tranny to engine bolts. Most are 14 mm. Get your landing pad for the old tranny ready. Find a good place to start with a screwdriver, chisels, whatever. Pry off the transmission with special attention to the dowels at 10 O’clock and 4 O’clock I believe. I recommend a tranny jack on a garage floor, but two guys can do it in the mud if necessary. Anyway, this is from my phone so not very slick, but I think the ideas presented are solid and will save many from wanting to put a gun in their mouth after 3 days of hell.
  11. I don't think so. Take a look at this thread. Good news is that it seems splicing that connector into a wheel speed sensor will fix that, details follow the linked post in that thread.
  12. Hello, I am having troubles flashing my ECU. I am using the following OBD cable: I use 16.2 volts on B8 to go into bootmode, but all I get while trying to flash in Motronic Suite is "Erase failed". I also editet the config file and added my COM port, but nothing works. Do I use the wrong OBD cable or are there any more possible problems I have to check first for? Thanks in advance
  13. Hello, I am having troubles flashing my ECU. I am using the following OBD cable: I use 16.2 volts on B8 to go into bootmode, but all I get while trying to flash in Motronic Suite is "Erase failed". I also editet the config file and added my COM port, but nothing works. Do I use the wrong OBD cable or are there any more possible problems I have to check first for? Thanks in advance
  14. The guy has backed out of selling it. It was $8k well worth it, it seems
  15. Is not the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) on the 98 s70 automatic with the same function?
  16. The issue is that the newer transmission will not have the speed sensor that the older cars use. '96 and newer use the ABS/wheel speed senors for the speedometer signal, so there are no provisions for a speed sensor on the transmission.
  17. Ps have that. They loathe it. Doesn’t get hot enough, takes to long to get hot. with multi showers, get multi units then.
  18. Yes, I dir replace with the one from junkyard and with a jumper cable and same symptoms. I will try to stop by Auto Zone and rent fuel pressure tester and report back.
  19. Thanks. I could probably re-wire the input for the speedometer
  20. With the stalling and hesitation, did you check your fuel pump relay?
  21. Work on PCV completed and vacuum replaced with silicon and same symptoms. Time to reach-out for help to Volvo special shop in Chicago area called Swedish Car Specialists.
  22. Haven't been driving this much over the last year due to kids being hard to put in the back, and some lingering maintenance issues.. Well, I'm hoping to get it back to 100% by mid summer. There was a camshaft seal leak that has compromised the timing belt. I don't anticipate a problem immediately, but that needs to all be replaced in the near future. The suspension and brakes are also in need of some attention. This sill be a slow project like everything I touch, but I did grab a set of Maxpeedingrods coilovers.. Couldn't argue with the price, and I had a chance to try them out on a different P80 in person and I was very impressed. They seem to be getting good reviews from other P80 owners as well, so I'm going to give them a shot.. The biggest complaint I hear is that they rust kind of fast, but since this car never gets driven in the winter anymore, and I don't mind keeping them lubed, they should be fine. More coming in the near future..
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