This write up should only be followed if you have some idea what you are doing.
Tools needed:
-Socket wrench
-Socket wrench extensions (helpful for hard to reach clamps)
-11mm socket, 12mm socket (depends which t-bolt clamps you use, I had different types so I needed both sizes).
-Hacksaw/reciprocating saw/sawzall for cutting metal piping
-Flash light (helpful)
-Flathead screwdriver (for tightening worm clamps if you are using them)
This is what I ordered:
-CXRacing FMIC kit
-Intercooler size is 27X6X2.5. The core is 21X6X2.5. There is no specific part number.
-Piping size is 2.25". You can go with 2.5" but it will be a TIGHT TIGHT fit, it will most likely take some cutting, and many people who have done this do not want to deal with the trouble.
-The kit comes with 16 t-bolt clamps. I cant remember how many I used, but I do not believe you need any extra, I will have to check when I get home.
This is the specific piping I used, I did have leftover piping from the kit, but the following is what I USED:
-Two (2) straight pipes
-One (1) 90 degree pipe
-One (1) 45 degree pipe
-Three (3) J pipes *NOTE* The intercooler kit only comes with two J pipes, so you will have to order an extra one.
Specific couplers used:
-Two (2) straight couplers
-Two (2) 2.5"->2.25" straight couplers/reducer
-One (1) 45 degree coupler
-Three (3) 90 degree couplers *NOTE* The intercooler kit only comes with two 90 degree couplers, so you will have to order an extra one.
I purchased it on ebay. Since ebay auctions only last so long, I will link you to the CXRacing ebay store. If you cant find the specific kit, you can email them and they will set you up. They are very helpful and fast to communicate in my experience.
Link: http://stores.ebay.com/CXRacing
Before you start, remove all of your stock piping/hoses EXCEPT for the turbo coupler/hose and the throttle body coupler/hose.
Hot side instructions:
-Everything is very straight forward as it is just a matter of routing the piping and clamping everything together.
You will need the following for the hot side:
-One 90 degree pipe
-One 45 degree pipe
-One straight pipe
-One J pipe
-Two straight couplers
-One 45 degree coupler
-One 90 degree coupler
-One reducer coupler
Before you begin, you should cut the J pipe. This is optional, but it is advised for a cleaner install. Doing this allowed me to go around the a/c receiver/drier instead of under it, which allowed for nothing to be hanging down and a better looking final product. The cut should be made right at the middle of the curve at the bottom of the J pipe. To try to explain this better, imagine that the J pipe is really a U shape. You want to cut the U shape directly in half.
You are now ready to bolt everything on.
This is the order that things go, starting with the turbo(you will obviously need two t bolt clamps at every connection):
90 degree pipe ---> straight coupler ---45 degree pipe --->45 degree coupler--->straight pipe.....90 degree coupler--->cut J pipe---> straight coupler--->cut J pipe--->reducer coupler ---> intercooler
Pics:





Cold side instructions:
-Everything is very straight forward as it is just a matter of routing the piping and clamping everything together.
You will need the following for the cold side:
-One straight pipe
-Two J pipes
-Two 90 degree couplers
-One reducer coupler
Before you begin you should cut the J pipe. For the cold side it is necessary. This cut will be different than the cut for the hot side, and you will only be using half the pipe. I don't know of a measurement for where you need to cut the J pipe, you are just going to have to eyeball it, and use my pictures as a reference. The cut should be made at the lower part of the J, but closer to the longer side of the pipe. If the J at the end of the pipe is too long, the hood will hit against the pipe, if it is too short it will not work. So if you are guessing, you should probably start cutting it so there is more J than less J, if that makes any sense
You are now ready to bolt everything on.
This is the order that things go, starting with the throttle body (you will obviously need two t bolt clamps at every connection):
Cut J pipe--->90 degree coupler--->straight pipe--->90 degree coupler---->J pipe---->reducer coupler--->intercooler
*NOTE* In the pictures below you will see that I have a pipe with a blowoff valve on it. This is where your cut J pipe will go. I used my blowoff valve piping instead so I wouldn't have to have it re-welded.
Pics:





Mounting the intercooler:
I did this last. Partly because I wanted to be able to position the piping and the intercooler how I wanted after everything was set, and partly because I didn't really know how I was going to mount it. There is not really a sense in taking pictures of this. I used a combination of long zip ties, and heavy duty metal wire. I wrapped it around the intercooler connections (the metal part) and also around a couple pipes. Basically, anything that was secure under the car is what I wrapped zip ties and wire around. Was it ghetto? Yeah. Could you tell from outside the car? No.
The intercooler was for sure secured tight, I could pull on it very hard and it wouldnt budge. I just don't think it should be a permanent solution. This is where I am hoping others can give their input on how they mounted their intercoolers.
Ending notes.
-If you havent already noticed, you will need to use some of the stock components. The stock components being the coupler/hose on the turbo and the coupler/hose on the throttle body.
-I do not know the torque values on the t bolt clamps. I torqued them to "tight."
Driving impressions:
It definitely pulls harder. I noticed more low end torque and louder turbo. My EBC is set to 17psi, but with the front mount I am hitting and holding 18psi strong. Definitely worth the money, and I cant wait to see how it does this summer. I havent blown a single pipe off yet either, the tbolt clamps are holding really well.
Forgot to add the best part!
Total cost: $188, including shipping
























