64 replies to this topic

[laird]

Laird, you have some serious issues going on with the running state of your car, and I really can't begin to think of where to look other than cam timing and your tune. It looks like your ignition timing is all over the place, and there is no reason you should have boost fall-off with a 19T like that.. Both the torque curve and the power curve are very wrong, and the choppiness is almost worrying. Your peak torque should be about 1000 RPM higher, and your horsepower should be about 40-50 whp higher, both curves should look more organic by quite a huge margin and your power should continue to rise until maybe 5500 or so before it starts to plateau and then taper off. Hopefully RICA will get your dyno chart back along with your ECU and say "whoops, didn't mean to solder *that* chip in there" and then you'll get it back with the right tune and be delighted. From what I can see that's about the only possibility in my mind.

This is obviously where I need the help. I assume that the tune needs help and I hope that a correct tune will fix it. I hope George knows what he is doing (and decides to get back to me). I also want to know if there are any sensors that may be affecting the timing. I really don't have any more ideas as to how to get it straightend out.
Thanks for all the intelligent replies....Really all of you.

[Fudge_Brownie]

new knock sensors just to play safe?
I'm assuming you have no current CEL's

newbie question: that dyno graph looked like someone with parkinsons drew it. is that the timing being retarded and then given back? is he just on the verge of knock, so that it detects a knock, pulls timing, senses no knock, advances timing, knocks and repeats?

[Boost_Junky]

I won't say no, but I think it's unlikely.

The knock sensors will usually send a signal that will be a consistant change during a pull. I may be wrong, but that is my experience. When I had a loose connection it would retard timing. It wouldn't go back and forth tho. The minute it lost the signal it would retard, if it regained the signal during the pull it would not re-adjust. I would have to restart the engine to get the timing to change back.

The knock sensors don't usually go bad from what I understand too.

[laird]

Ok, now I have been reading some injector threads and I am confused about what I have. The part number on the Blues that I have spec out as 350cc injectors. The Whites spec out as 404cc. I was under the impression that the Blues and Whites were essentially the same. Do I have odd Blues? Did George set up my ECU for 400cc injectors and that accounts for my lean AFR's?
If I throw in a set of Whites on the current tune, will it improve the AFR's or will the ECU compensate to get to a preset level?

[Ipd]

I won't say no, but I think it's unlikely.

The knock sensors will usually send a signal that will be a consistant change during a pull. I may be wrong, but that is my experience. When I had a loose connection it would retard timing. It wouldn't go back and forth tho. The minute it lost the signal it would retard, if it regained the signal during the pull it would not re-adjust. I would have to restart the engine to get the timing to change back.

The knock sensors don't usually go bad from what I understand too.

850 knock sensor used to fail all the time, back when I was at the dealer there was a bulletin that went out and a new designed sensor.
However they always showed up with a CEL...