16 replies to this topic

[cn90]

This is not new to you guys but I just want to share some tips/tricks on Front Suspension that should make the job much easier for newbies.

The Story: I learned the Front Suspension hard way, I first replaced the Outer Tierods 12 months ago, Sway Bar End Links 6 months ago, Control Arms 4 months ago, then CV Rubber Boots 2 months ago. Today, I just replaced my Front Strut! So this was my 5th time poking my head in that area!
So if you have more than 90-100K miles and if you plan to keep your car for another 80-100K, then consider doing ALL of the items I mentioned at the same time, on the long run, you save money/labor/alignment costs.

The Facts about Front Strut
At 92K, my passenger side Front Strut Seat is broken (the way to diagnose it is to turn the Strut NUT in the Susp Tower, if it spins freely, then the Strut Seat is broken.
- The OEM Volvo Sachs Struts are overdue, it does not bounce back once I took it out to examine. I guess if you are tight on budget, you can push the strut another 20-30K miles or so.
- The Strut Seat is broken on passenger’s side. I replaced with XC90 Spring Seat (more solid).
- The Strut Guide (with Bearing) shows slight-to-moderate play, so at 92K, it is on its wa out.
- The Rubber Stop (aka Spring Helper”)”and Rubber Boots are OK but also on its way ot. They are cheap so replace them after 10y/90K anyway. Note how they are assembled together and do the same with new parts.
- The Strut Replacement options are:
1) OEM Volvo
2) Bilstein TC (Touring): I really like the Bilstein TC, it is just a bit firmer than OEM, and it rides very well through the road imperfections and bumps.
3) Bilstein HD: I have no experience with it
4) Koni is another brand, do some search on it.

Things to do. Read the excellent DIY write-up’s in
a- Haynes Manual and on the Internet.
b- http://members.shaw.ca/heeeeee/strut/
c- DIY section of this forum

These are my additional Tips/Tricks:

1. During removal, observe how things are put together so you can re-install the same way.

2. You absolutely need 2 Jackstands, this will make removing the End Link much easier!

3. You can re-use the 3 nuts (Strut Guide to Susp Tower).

4. The new Bilstein Strut comes with a new large 22-mm NUT (self-locking type).
You need 2 new bolts and nuts for the Steering Knuckle.

5. Observe Torque Values:
- Strut to Steering Knuckle: 65 Nm, then another 90 degrees.
- Strut Guide to Susp Tower (the three 13-mm nuts): 25 Nm.
- Swaybar Endlink 17-mm nut: 50 Nm
- Strut 22-mm Large Nut: 70 Nm.

6. The Swaybar Endlink: I have Meyle type so use 5-mm Allen key to hold it while removing the 17-mm Nut. If you use want to use a wrench to hold it from the other side, be VERY CAREFUL not to damage the rubber boot.

7. Place a rag over the Outer CV Rubber Boots to protect it. Someone in this forum has nicked the CV rubber boot during Strut Job!

8. Loosen the Stock 21-mm Strut NUT a bit before removing it from the car. Do NOT ever remove this NUT completely while in the car!

9. During re-install, use Red Locktite on the new Bilstein 22-mm NUT. Probably not needed b/c the Bilstein 22-mm NUT is the self-locking type anyway. But better to overkill here.

10. The Bilstein uses 6-mm Allen wrench to hold while tightening the 22-mm Nut (Stock Strut uses 9-mm flat part). During install, slightly tighten it on the ground. Do the FINAL tightening to proper torque after installed in the car. Probably easier with impact gun b/c you will find out that the 6-mm Allen wrench barely holds the strut for you to apply 70 Nm torque on the 22-mm Nut!

11. I have 2 pairs of compressors (Autozone $35/pair, Harbor Frieght cheaper pair $13.00/pair). I work in healthcare and have seen people faced blown off by failed compressor springs. So I use 4 Spring Compressors.
I know some people here may call me a whimp (which I don’t care). The Autozone Spring Compressors are very good. The Harbor Freight Compressors are cheaper but I use them as “double insurance” just in case. For $13.00 more, it is peace of mind!
I like to overkill when it comes compressing the Strut Spring. It has enough energy to kill you ---> So I used 4 Spring Compressors. It feels VERY SOLID and SAFE, especially when you struggle with the stupid cross-shape NUT!

12. If the Strut Seat is broken, the cross-shape NUT may be pushed down making removal very difficult. Get a pair of pliers and pull the cross-shape NUT upward out of the recess, then use a Pipe Wrench to undo it (of course ONLY after you have the Springs compressed!).

13. Use WD-40 as needed.

14. During install, watch the Spring Ends (both Upper and Lower Ends) to be sure they seat correctly on Both the Spring Seat and the Strut itself as you slowly remove the Spring Compressors.

15. I put 2 lug bolts back on the rotor to help hold it in place while resting the rotors on some lumber while the Strut is removed.

16. The Bilstein Strut has an extra flange that can potentially rub against the ABS sensor wiring, Protect this section of ABS wiring with Fuel Hose (get a short section of Fuel Hose and cut it along its length, wrap it with zip ties.

17. Lastly, Note how the parts come together, see pic.

18. Don’t forget to go for alignment job.

Hope this helps you select the right Strut and DIY!

Attached Files

•  Strut03.jpg   36.1K   390 downloads
•  98VolovoV70Strut.JPG   112.89K   474 downloads
•  98V70FrontSusp.jpg   38.27K   350 downloads
•  98VolvoV70Strut02.JPG   124.28K   321 downloads

[AlvinL]

Good job and thanks for sharing your tips and tricks. My only concern is with using the red loctite. I wouldn't have used any. As you said, there's already a locknut. Using red loctite will make it very difficult for the next time it has to come apart. May have to split the nut because the allen key will probably break first!

[--Aaron--]

Are you happy with the TC's.....I take it you are judging from the little bit of good feedback you left regarding them.

I ask because I plan on running them all the way around come suspension time.

[cn90]

Aaron,

I am 45 years old and I also have a BMW so I like BMW ride (a bit firmer than many Volvo's I have owned).
But I am not 18 years old and stay away from Bilstein HD (from what I gather it is spine jarring pain but I have no experience with it).

After extensive research in this forum, I selected Bilstein TC Strut. Amazing Strut. Very happy with the ride.
The Volvo now has the same ride as my 98 MW 528i. Very solid yet not bad for my spine.

OEM is a bit soft for me.

In order from Soft to Hard Strut:

Volvo OEM ---> Bilstein TC ---> Bilstein HD.

So far I am very happy with Bilstein TC Strut. The ride is controlled, yet not bad for the back.
The highway ride is also amazing.

Re: Online Sellers.
- FCP Groton has the best prices for Bilstein TC Strut ($110/each).
- Other items come from Waltrip Volvo in Franklin TN (highly recommend them):
1. Support Guide (Bearing) OEM Volvo----------------> $95/each (I guess you can use Sachs-Boge as well. Online is about $75/each).
2. Strut Seat: per advice from this forum, I use XC Spring Seat: PN 30683637 ---------------> $29/each.
3. Rubber Stipped (Spring Helper) ------------> $13.50
4. Rubber Boot --------> $6.75

Contact Info for Volvo OEM is below. Best is to do a bit of homework and PN, then email Don for a quote.
Then finalize it on the phone.

Don Snyder
Don.Snyder@HendrickAuto.com
Darrell Waltrip Volvo
1450 Murfreesboro Rd
Franklin, TN 37067
615-599-6294 direct
1-800-679-6124 toll free
615-599-6253 fax

[--Aaron--]

Good to hear man, can't wait for suspension time. I'm not much for harsh bouncing either and I'm 24 and have never lowered a car or altered a previous cars' suspension. Oh but this one's gonna get it.....somewhat at least the TC's should be a good match with the springs I choose.

[erikv11]

this is great, thanks for documenting and posting it up. nice to have info all in one place every now and then. good job.

When you post that much, someone will have a comment here is mine: it is totally fine to take off the 22 mm top nut when the strut is in the car. I wouldn't drive it that way but otherwise it is fine.

I have done it several times before (to visually inspect the spring seats), there is zero danger. The spring would have to bust the cross shape nut *and* burst the whole strut mount through the top of the strut tower to hurt you - it ain't gonna happen. *BUT* as far as doing a a strut job I agree, it would be a very bad idea, to take the top nut off and then remove the strut!!! Safer to have both the cross-shape nut and the top nut protecting your face.

I have put 80k on the TC struts, they are a good compromise between sport and OEM. They are holding up well.

[jnderr]

Aaron I went with TC's when I changed my shock/struts and springs. I've got the H&R sport springs, give a nice drop and definitely firms up the handling as well as the ride. The only time I find it unpleasant is on particularly bad roads this time of year especially since my city sucks at clearing roads and their all iced over.

[raven_850]

I have TCs on my 850 and have been very happy with them.

[--Aaron--]

Excellent feedback on the TC's guys.....makes me more comfortable setting my eyes on them for future plans!

[96R]

Do any of you noticed a significant rise in front wheel clearance (with factory springs) after installing the TC?

Excellent feedback on the TC's guys.....makes me more comfortable setting my eyes on them for future plans!

[jdlc]

Do any of you noticed a significant rise in front wheel clearance (with factory springs) after installing the TC?

Not really. I did hear that HD do that in front.
If that is at all a concern, an alternative would be Boge Turbo Automatic - it's gas and has about the same mid-firm characteristic as TC. Not sure if warranty is lifetime like Bilstein though.


BTW, my set-up for the V70 NA is Bilstein TC in front and HD rears.

[cn90]

Do any of you noticed a significant rise in front wheel clearance (with factory springs) after installing the TC?

Absolutely not. Front wheel clearance the same, alignment is fine.

The Bilstein TC works great with factory Spring.
If the factory ride is "normal", then Bilstein TC is about 1.05 to 1.10 stiffer. In other words, about 5-10% stiffer.
I am 45 years old (if that means anything) and I like the slightly stiffer ride from Bilstein TC.

[3-D]

question for anyone: i have read some documentation on this job that says you should NOT disconnect the ABS sensor lead to facilitate easier removal of the strut, is this true? any guesses as to why?

whoops, that was me

[ozzimark]

Probably because there isn't a reason to disconnect it. It doesn't get in the way unless you drop the strut when you unbolt it.

[3-D]

Probably because there isn't a reason to disconnect it. It doesn't get in the way unless you drop the strut when you unbolt it.

it did end up in my way so i unplugged it, i just wanted to make sure my car wasn't going to blow up because of it


i did this job over the weekend, having done a couple struts on my old VW in the past, i found it to be pretty straight forward on this car as well. my biggest challenge was breaking the aluminum rims free from the hubs. also this car doesn't have progressive rate springs like my old car which made placement of the spring compressors far more critical working on the volvo as the last free coil still had plenty of travel in it.

[specialk]

Very, very nice guide. I think this is going to be the first project for me. At the same time I think I will grab a set of the IPD springs going on in that group buy, would these go nicely with the TC's?

I figure this is probably better to do BEFORE I get new wheels. Since the springs will lower and I have to take into account what size wheels I can fit?

Ive got almost 95k and I think this would be a nice place to start.

EDIT: Well I just noticed this was in the 1998 and prior and is V70, would this guide work for S70? even though im assuming some parts may be different?