2 replies to this topic

[dooby]

Hi guys,

over in the UK I spent the Easter weekend converting my '97 model year 850R auto to a manual using an M56H from a donor car.

I chose to leave the auto transmission connector in the engine bay, and have jumpered the green and green/red wires (Neutral or Park starter inhibit). I've also extended the blue and blue/grey wires out to the reverse switch.

I spotted from the wiring diagrams (and info on here) I'd need to cut pin 3T on the cruise control relay so I did that. I also fitted the clutch cruise cancel switch air pipe and wired in the electrical portion of the switch in series - that's what the wiring diagram I was following implied was correct.

So, no cruise. From a cold start I get code 1-2-2 (expected) but after a run above whatever MPH I get a clear 1-1-1.

Any pointers on where I should start looking? I had removed the TCU and all was running fine - popped it back in just in case but no luck so it's back out.

Thanks for any tips, Pete

[Gage]

Hi guys,

over in the UK I spent the Easter weekend converting my '97 model year 850R auto to a manual using an M56H from a donor car.

I chose to leave the auto transmission connector in the engine bay, and have jumpered the green and green/red wires (Neutral or Park starter inhibit). I've also extended the blue and blue/grey wires out to the reverse switch.

I spotted from the wiring diagrams (and info on here) I'd need to cut pin 3T on the cruise control relay so I did that. I also fitted the clutch cruise cancel switch air pipe and wired in the electrical portion of the switch in series - that's what the wiring diagram I was following implied was correct.

So, no cruise. From a cold start I get code 1-2-2 (expected) but after a run above whatever MPH I get a clear 1-1-1.

Any pointers on where I should start looking? I had removed the TCU and all was running fine - popped it back in just in case but no luck so it's back out.

Thanks for any tips, Pete

you need to pull out on the brake light switch and it will work trust me i had the same problem with both the 5spd swaps i did just pull a little on the round tab that hits the brake arm i pulled mine all the way till it would not move anymore

[dooby]

Hi,

thanks for the tip - I disconnected both brake and clutch pedals from their connections to the approriate master cylinders, disconnected the vacuum lines and pulled the switches all the way out. I then slowly pulled the pedal back in until it would re-engage with its arm and reconnected the vacuum lines.

Quick drive, no luck. Still no cruise activating. I pulled over and read no fault codes (1-1-1). I also found out how to enter "test function 2" and check for the reason of the last cruise disengage. I pulled 2-1-4 which is voltage feed not connected.

Checked under the battery tray, unplugged and re-inserted the connector. Also checked fuse 28, all good.

Tried again, still no cruise.

Finally took the multimeter to the switches, turns out whilst the clutch switch was good on the bench (push to break action confirmed) the point at which the plunger makes the connection wasn't being hit as the clutch pedal arm was too far from the plunger. So as it thought the clutch was pressed the cruise was never engaging which might explain the lack of code signifying last disengage reason!

A quick bend on the switch housing part of the pedal box and the switch is slightly nearer the clutch pedal arm, enough to have a made connection with the pedal up, and enough to fix my cruise control :-)

Hope this helps someone else who's tearing their hair out ;-) Moral is, check the switches are working electrically *once installed*...

Cheers, Pete