If you miss 1 or 2 teeth nothing will happen other than the car running like crap, but you should be able to see whether or not you have everything lined up before trying to start.
Be sure the crank and the cam gears are where they belong per their marks before proceeding and then cut the TB off and don't disturb those gears while replacing tensioners etc.. Follow the Bay 13 order for the belt replacement. I did and it worked fine. I also found that backing the crank gear off about a half a tooth makes the crank gear to cam part go very easily. The teeny bit of slack alows you to get the belt on without disturbing the cam gear. The slack is taken up when you have everything on and hand rotate the crank 2 revs. This made the process very smooth for me and it was perfect the first time.
Read the procedures until you can visualize the whole process. If it takes 15 times, it takes 15 times. Understand before you start and follow the proceedure.
And, yes, if you're doing the waterpump be very anal about getting light in there and making sure that all the old gasket is gone. I could see this being a problem if one assumes they've got it without a thorough inspection.
Does anybody have a good technique for getting the new water pump and gasket on? I did find that to actually be the biggest PITA and I'm sure there is a bettertechnique than I used.
lcc014, on 01 July 2009 - 08:37 PM, said:
I have never done any TB job before, so this is very challenge to me. If I miss 1 or 2 teeth, then the whole engine will be toasted !!!
Ching-Ho Cheng
1997 854 R White 191k, Upsolute, MSD Coil, EST 3" down pipe, 2.5" cat back, IPD rear sway bar, QBM endlinks, OMP Strut Tower Bar