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Endlinks Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   Prezman26 Icon

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 01:33 AM

will the s70 hd endlinks fit in the 850?
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#2 User is offline   dongle Icon

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 01:36 AM

yup!
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#3 User is offline   Dave 54 Icon

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 01:37 AM

http://www.ipdusa.co...73-691-689-858/
http://www.ipdusa.co...51-693-655-856/

Same part #'s so yep should work just fine.
DAVE
96' 850R
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#4 User is offline   damitzmike Icon

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Posted 28 September 2009 - 04:53 AM

just put hd endlinks from a v70 on yesterday on my 850
96' 854R white 95K miles. ST 17psi. Japan Manifold. 3" dp and exhaust. Msd blaster. Ipd wires. Ipd sr5t. Forge Motorsport bov. Ipd HD TCV. HD endlinks.
1/4mile 14.013 @ 97.96mph
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#5 User is offline   fenwick253 Icon

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Posted 02 October 2009 - 06:30 AM

Make your own...
afcoracing.com for rods
midwestcontrol.com for rod ends

built mine on the cheap
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#6 User is offline   B Mac Icon

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Posted 02 October 2009 - 11:57 AM

View Postfenwick253, on 02 October 2009 - 02:30 AM, said:

Make your own...
afcoracing.com for rods
midwestcontrol.com for rod ends

built mine on the cheap


Pictures of how you did it possibly? Would you consider building them for sale?
BENNNNNN : 213k mile 95 854- m56, 3" turbo->tip exhaust, S60R ex. mani., n/a cams, 16t, Garret 11psi wg, fmic, 350cc inj., oil cooler, Greddy Profec B Spec II, bilstein HD, EST springs, 302mm brakes, IPD strut tower/25mm rear...242whp, 310wtq on a mustang dyno <not for long

Big Will:your car is the most raw, awesome Volvo I've ever driven....mine is just shinier
matt b: :rolleyes: ....Like he said, you can take the boy out of TB but you can't take TB out of the boy... :P
Wingnut: Of course jewfro vs. gingerbreadman wrestling is mandatory entertainment.
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#7 User is offline   FCP Groton Icon

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Posted 02 October 2009 - 01:05 PM

+1, would like to see how you made them and what shape they are in now.
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#8 User is offline   fenwick253 Icon

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Posted 03 October 2009 - 02:02 AM

You pretty much buy the pieces (rods, rod ends, misalign spacers, bolts/nuts/washers) and put them together. Nothing really custom. I need to make a boot for the rod ends to keep water out (maybe try QBM's?) because mine squeak. I'm in seattle, so I'll take a pic when it isn't raining.

Mine are 12" rods (5/8" thread), 5/8"x5/8" rod ends, and 5/8" to 1/2" reducing misalign spacers.

oops... 10" rods

not 12"
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#9 User is offline   ozzimark Icon

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Posted 04 October 2009 - 02:20 AM

View PostB Mac, on 02 October 2009 - 07:57 AM, said:

Pictures of how you did it possibly? Would you consider building them for sale?

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Posted Image

It's nice because I was able to make longer links for my lowered car to keep the swaybar in the right spot... but the joints don't last that long unless you find a good way to seal them up, which I didn't.
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#10 User is offline   fenwick253 Icon

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Posted 04 October 2009 - 02:46 AM

ozzimark and I did the exact same thing. nothing custom, but much cheaper than buying QBMs or something.
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#11 User is offline   ozzimark Icon

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Posted 04 October 2009 - 01:47 PM

Yup, also, midwestcontrol makes rubber boots for the female rod ends too, I contacted them about having them made for the male rod ends, with no luck :(

http://www.midwestco...hort.php?pg=561

So I guess the next set I make will have a threaded rod and female rod ends <_<

There is also this though..

http://www.midwestco...hort.php?pg=230

But I'm not sure how well it'll really hold up compared to the full boot, since the back of the rod end won't be sealed properly.
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#12 User is offline   B Mac Icon

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Posted 05 October 2009 - 04:21 AM

I love making things...but based on only the fact that I don't have the time to do this, would you consider building up a set for me? PM me if you'd like to discuss finances *taps fingers together*
BENNNNNN : 213k mile 95 854- m56, 3" turbo->tip exhaust, S60R ex. mani., n/a cams, 16t, Garret 11psi wg, fmic, 350cc inj., oil cooler, Greddy Profec B Spec II, bilstein HD, EST springs, 302mm brakes, IPD strut tower/25mm rear...242whp, 310wtq on a mustang dyno <not for long

Big Will:your car is the most raw, awesome Volvo I've ever driven....mine is just shinier
matt b: :rolleyes: ....Like he said, you can take the boy out of TB but you can't take TB out of the boy... :P
Wingnut: Of course jewfro vs. gingerbreadman wrestling is mandatory entertainment.
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#13 User is offline   fenwick253 Icon

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Posted 05 October 2009 - 05:47 AM

View PostB Mac, on 05 October 2009 - 05:21 AM, said:

I love making things...but based on only the fact that I don't have the time to do this, would you consider building up a set for me? PM me if you'd like to discuss finances *taps fingers together*

I can tell you everything that you need. I would not be "building" or "fabricating" anything at all. You would be paying me to order the parts and assembling the endlinks (ie. threading the rod ends into the rod). I don't feel like I should charge anybody for that. If you need to know exactly what you need, let me know. I'm sure others can add on their input.
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#14 User is offline   jnderr Icon

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Posted 05 October 2009 - 01:30 PM

View PostB Mac, on 05 October 2009 - 12:21 AM, said:

I love making things...but based on only the fact that I don't have the time to do this, would you consider building up a set for me? PM me if you'd like to discuss finances *taps fingers together*

Really you just buy the parts and assemble, install. Here are mine minus the jam nuts installed, make sure to order some left hand thread jam nuts.

Posted Image
98' S70 T5+M 179k Miles
00' V70 NA 116K Miles
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#15 User is offline   ozzimark Icon

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Posted 05 October 2009 - 04:33 PM

View Postfenwick253, on 05 October 2009 - 01:47 AM, said:

I can tell you everything that you need. I would not be "building" or "fabricating" anything at all. You would be paying me to order the parts and assembling the endlinks (ie. threading the rod ends into the rod).

Yup, it took me all of 5 minutes to go from the first picture I posted to the second picture :lol:

The hard part is figuring out which endlinks you want and how to seal them :ph34r:
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#16 User is offline   pinky Icon

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Posted 06 October 2009 - 05:34 AM

View Postfenwick253, on 05 October 2009 - 05:47 AM, said:

I can tell you everything that you need. I would not be "building" or "fabricating" anything at all. You would be paying me to order the parts and assembling the endlinks (ie. threading the rod ends into the rod). I don't feel like I should charge anybody for that. If you need to know exactly what you need, let me know. I'm sure others can add on their input.



If you could make a parts list that would be great. I have the qbm's version 1, but would love some aluminum ones like what you have. Also if you ever find a way to seal them pleas let us know. Maybe you can build something very similar to what you have now, but use the female ends so that you can use the rubber boots on that site. Then use a threaded stud for between the spherical ends and aluminum rod with two locking nuts.

If what I said above works, and you can make a parts list I know myself and others on this site would be very thankful.

I just put on qbm's gen one end links and I know they wont last long since I can't find a way to seal them. I will either keep buying new spherical ends every few years or find a way to seal them. I also don't like that they are heavy.


Something else to think about. Aluminum is more rigid so it is not only lighter, but better for this application.

-pinky
1997 850
105,000 miles
strut brace
Daily driver
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#17 User is offline   ozzimark Icon

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Posted 06 October 2009 - 10:34 AM

View Postpinky, on 06 October 2009 - 01:34 AM, said:

Something else to think about. Aluminum is more rigid so it is not only lighter, but better for this application.

It also fails under long-term cyclic loading.. :ph34r:
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#18 User is offline   pinky Icon

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Posted 06 October 2009 - 04:53 PM

View Postozzimark, on 06 October 2009 - 10:34 AM, said:

It also fails under long-term cyclic loading.. :ph34r:



true, not wanting to argue, but will say. The link posted by you shows a cost of rods rather cheap in comparison to other alternatives I have looked at. Also we are talking about performance in the performance section, so using materials that will give you better performance but wear out quicker is a norm, i.e. running more boost on motor. Also lighter so you can even go as far to argue that while being stiffer and harder on suspension it is also lighter and therefore slightly less stress on suspension components. One other thing, the failure rate is not not drastically high in my opinion. Again a trade off for higher performance.

Big picture, cheap relative to qbm's or other alternatives I have been looking at. Not to mention better performance.

I might have time this week to try to put together a parts list and post it here so you guys can look it over to make sure I have it all right.

-pinky
1997 850
105,000 miles
strut brace
Daily driver
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#19 User is offline   fenwick253 Icon

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Posted 08 October 2009 - 07:32 PM

give me a bit to find part #s from the respected parts sites. I'll get back soon.
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#20 User is offline   lookforjoe Icon

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Posted 06 November 2009 - 04:10 AM

View Postozzimark, on 03 October 2009 - 09:20 PM, said:

Posted Image

Posted Image

It's nice because I was able to make longer links for my lowered car to keep the swaybar in the right spot... but the joints don't last that long unless you find a good way to seal them up, which I didn't.


How did these hold up? You made them early in the year, right?

I'd still like the parts list if you don't mind sharing; I have IPD links now, but homemade suits me better :D
Posted Image
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