Endlinks
#1
Posted 28 September 2009 - 01:33 AM
#3
Posted 28 September 2009 - 01:37 AM
http://www.ipdusa.co...51-693-655-856/
Same part #'s so yep should work just fine.
96' 850R
#6
Posted 02 October 2009 - 11:57 AM
fenwick253, on 02 October 2009 - 02:30 AM, said:
afcoracing.com for rods
midwestcontrol.com for rod ends
built mine on the cheap
Pictures of how you did it possibly? Would you consider building them for sale?
Big Will:your car is the most raw, awesome Volvo I've ever driven....mine is just shinier
matt b: :rolleyes: ....Like he said, you can take the boy out of TB but you can't take TB out of the boy... :P
Wingnut: Of course jewfro vs. gingerbreadman wrestling is mandatory entertainment.

#7
Posted 02 October 2009 - 01:05 PM
Click here to go to the FCP Groton Official Website
Get 10% off orders over $99, today! Use this code: VSS60RWB
#8
Posted 03 October 2009 - 02:02 AM
Mine are 12" rods (5/8" thread), 5/8"x5/8" rod ends, and 5/8" to 1/2" reducing misalign spacers.
oops... 10" rods
not 12"
#9
Posted 04 October 2009 - 02:20 AM
B Mac, on 02 October 2009 - 07:57 AM, said:


It's nice because I was able to make longer links for my lowered car to keep the swaybar in the right spot... but the joints don't last that long unless you find a good way to seal them up, which I didn't.
#11
Posted 04 October 2009 - 01:47 PM
http://www.midwestco...hort.php?pg=561
So I guess the next set I make will have a threaded rod and female rod ends
There is also this though..
http://www.midwestco...hort.php?pg=230
But I'm not sure how well it'll really hold up compared to the full boot, since the back of the rod end won't be sealed properly.
#12
Posted 05 October 2009 - 04:21 AM
Big Will:your car is the most raw, awesome Volvo I've ever driven....mine is just shinier
matt b: :rolleyes: ....Like he said, you can take the boy out of TB but you can't take TB out of the boy... :P
Wingnut: Of course jewfro vs. gingerbreadman wrestling is mandatory entertainment.

#13
Posted 05 October 2009 - 05:47 AM
B Mac, on 05 October 2009 - 05:21 AM, said:
I can tell you everything that you need. I would not be "building" or "fabricating" anything at all. You would be paying me to order the parts and assembling the endlinks (ie. threading the rod ends into the rod). I don't feel like I should charge anybody for that. If you need to know exactly what you need, let me know. I'm sure others can add on their input.
#14
Posted 05 October 2009 - 01:30 PM
B Mac, on 05 October 2009 - 12:21 AM, said:
Really you just buy the parts and assemble, install. Here are mine minus the jam nuts installed, make sure to order some left hand thread jam nuts.
00' V70 NA 116K Miles
#15
Posted 05 October 2009 - 04:33 PM
fenwick253, on 05 October 2009 - 01:47 AM, said:
Yup, it took me all of 5 minutes to go from the first picture I posted to the second picture
The hard part is figuring out which endlinks you want and how to seal them
#16
Posted 06 October 2009 - 05:34 AM
fenwick253, on 05 October 2009 - 05:47 AM, said:
If you could make a parts list that would be great. I have the qbm's version 1, but would love some aluminum ones like what you have. Also if you ever find a way to seal them pleas let us know. Maybe you can build something very similar to what you have now, but use the female ends so that you can use the rubber boots on that site. Then use a threaded stud for between the spherical ends and aluminum rod with two locking nuts.
If what I said above works, and you can make a parts list I know myself and others on this site would be very thankful.
I just put on qbm's gen one end links and I know they wont last long since I can't find a way to seal them. I will either keep buying new spherical ends every few years or find a way to seal them. I also don't like that they are heavy.
Something else to think about. Aluminum is more rigid so it is not only lighter, but better for this application.
-pinky
105,000 miles
strut brace
Daily driver
#17
#18
Posted 06 October 2009 - 04:53 PM
ozzimark, on 06 October 2009 - 10:34 AM, said:
true, not wanting to argue, but will say. The link posted by you shows a cost of rods rather cheap in comparison to other alternatives I have looked at. Also we are talking about performance in the performance section, so using materials that will give you better performance but wear out quicker is a norm, i.e. running more boost on motor. Also lighter so you can even go as far to argue that while being stiffer and harder on suspension it is also lighter and therefore slightly less stress on suspension components. One other thing, the failure rate is not not drastically high in my opinion. Again a trade off for higher performance.
Big picture, cheap relative to qbm's or other alternatives I have been looking at. Not to mention better performance.
I might have time this week to try to put together a parts list and post it here so you guys can look it over to make sure I have it all right.
-pinky
105,000 miles
strut brace
Daily driver
#20
Posted 06 November 2009 - 04:10 AM
ozzimark, on 03 October 2009 - 09:20 PM, said:


It's nice because I was able to make longer links for my lowered car to keep the swaybar in the right spot... but the joints don't last that long unless you find a good way to seal them up, which I didn't.
How did these hold up? You made them early in the year, right?
I'd still like the parts list if you don't mind sharing; I have IPD links now, but homemade suits me better

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