[scandalo]

Hussien with the thread revive!

I looked this over for a good 30 minutes. This link will explain alot especially to a guy like you. He used

2 10inch rods 5/8 holes,
4 5/8 endlinks with 1/2connecting stud.


Im guessing you could just run a bolt through an endlink without a stud but with the possibility of reduced integrity.


To expand with a little more info on install/adjustment...

People should try this. Rigid endlinks really straighten the front out.

I always say suspension is a "first mod" with these cars. And with a price like this and SO many options on how to make a set... This is just ridiculous. You can make a set twice as good as the set I bought for the same price. Or pay 1/3 to 1/2 for a set just as good.

Great thread. Thanks for thread jacking fenwick.

[billr99]

For what its worth, I built my own endlinks when I had my 850R. All aluminum using aluminum rod ends and 10in sprint car radius rods (these are swaged and stronger than just aluminum tubing). Ran them til I got rid of the car so probably put 15K kms on them. Only problem I had was that the rod ends squeaked being non-greasable. If I ever do it again I'll still use the aluminum rods for stiffness and weight, but use greasable steel rod ends and boots.

From a performance standpoint, these links were even better than the QBM links I tried that didn't last a single Canadian winter. Turn in was vastly improved and overall cornering a whole lot flatter than using stock links.

Cheers,

Bill

[ozzimark]

lookforjoe, on 05 November 2009 - 11:10 PM, said:

How did these hold up? You made them early in the year, right?

I'd still like the parts list if you don't mind sharing; I have IPD links now, but homemade suits me better

Yeah, they were on the car for the last.. third or so of the winter, and have been on since then. They're still there, and don't have any noticeable play when I try to wiggle them around. There is a squeaking coming from the front end of the car, but I'm not sure if it's the endlinks or something else. Not having good hearing really doesn't help that

I'll post up a list of all the parts I used from midwest when I get back tonight, hopefully... plus some changes I would make if I did it again

[pinky]

Thank you. I know my qbm's will go out after a winter or two in KS.

[lookforjoe]

ozzimark, on 06 November 2009 - 06:35 PM, said:

Yeah, they were on the car for the last.. third or so of the winter, and have been on since then. They're still there, and don't have any noticeable play when I try to wiggle them around. There is a squeaking coming from the front end of the car, but I'm not sure if it's the endlinks or something else. Not having good hearing really doesn't help that

I'll post up a list of all the parts I used from midwest when I get back tonight, hopefully... plus some changes I would make if I did it again

Thanks~

[ozzimark]

Note the bulk quantity discounts. Best choice would be to get a few people in on it and purchase enough stuff for >10 sets at once.

This is exactly what my endlinks are made of:

right and left hand thread heim joints, 3/8-24 threaded stud pre-installed
http://midwestcontro...uy.php?item=614
http://midwestcontro...uy.php?item=615

10" long hex bar. Use 11 if you have a lowered car and want to keep the swaybar closer to the angle it was originally at before you lowered it.
http://midwestcontro...y.php?item=1703

RH nuts, need 8 per set (2 for locking the RH joints in place, 6 for bolting to strut and swaybar. The connection to the strut needs a spacer of some sort to prevent the two from hitting, the nut works well, and is cheap)
http://midwestcontro...y.php?item=1859

LH nuts, need 2 per set
http://midwestcontro...y.php?item=1863

You'll want washers too. Alternately, M10 threaded stuff will work great as well, while having a smidge more material for extra strength.



The next set I buy will use female heim joints instead of male, perhaps these (for whatever reason, the LH threaded version is listed, but with no ordering link, gotta figure that out )
http://midwestcontro...uy.php?item=314

along with these for protection:
http://midwestcontro...hort.php?pg=561

I will say this now: 1/2-20 threaded studs are TOO BIG to fit into the strut or swaybar hole without modification. I found out the hard way

[pinky]

In your pic you have nuts that have no head that slid into your spherical ends very nicely. Also it looks like they have a built in spacer or did you buy the spacer separately?

[ozzimark]

Are you referring to the studs on the heim joints? The joints I purchased came with studs pre-installed, pressed in. That stud has a hex on it to give you something to wrench on when tightening the nut. The nuts on the stud and the spherical joint housing were put there by me.

[TaskMule]

ozzimark, on 06 November 2009 - 11:10 PM, said:

Note the bulk quantity discounts. Best choice would be to get a few people in on it and purchase enough stuff for >10 sets at once.

This is exactly what my endlinks are made of:

Outstanding. Thanks very much.

[magnum46]

Awesome, I was just looking to do this. Thanks for reviving this thread. Now, is the a similar thread where I can get parts like these for a CAI with heatshield?

[B Mac]

The boots are going to be the 3/8 nominal size?? I'm not sure how they're doing their measurements here

[ozzimark]

Yup, the RFS-6 would be the one that fits the studded 3/8 female heim joints

[ozzimark]

Woo double post. Here's what my links look like now, after about 10 months of use. At least the spherical bearing is still nice and shiny. I twisted them around, and the movement is still smooth, so I guess the noise is coming from somewhere else

I still want to put a rubber boot on them though

[7 VII 7]

did you notice a difference with these?

performance wise I mean

[rodrigo]

I had the QBM's and they rattled after one winter. The boots are needed for any long term use, I feel.

7 VII 7, on 15 November 2009 - 11:07 PM, said:

did you notice a difference with these?

performance wise I mean

The steering response was improved. (+34.3 ft-lbs of torque)

[ozzimark]

7 VII 7, on 15 November 2009 - 11:07 PM, said:

did you notice a difference with these?

performance wise I mean

No, though the stock links are fine for the stock bars, which is what I have on the car still. Stiffer swaybars might cause deflection in the stock links, which is when the stronger links become handy

[Colbert]

Very nice ! I'm really tempted to fab the same.

Thanks for the infos.

ozzimark, on 07 November 2009 - 04:54 PM, said:

I still want to put a rubber boot on them though

Why don't you use this item ? http://midwestcontro...hort.php?pg=230

[dongle]

ozzimark, on 07 November 2009 - 10:54 AM, said:

Woo double post. Here's what my links look like now, after about 10 months of use. At least the spherical bearing is still nice and shiny. I twisted them around, and the movement is still smooth, so I guess the noise is coming from somewhere else

I still want to put a rubber boot on them though

Those look super short. Any particular reason you have the sways buried up in there like that?