
Creaky Dash No More!
#1
Posted 23 October 2009 - 06:23 PM
But it was. I took some black hardware store foam weatherstripping and stuffed it into that gap. It pushes out on the dashboard just like my fingertips were. NO MORE CREAKING!
Cheap, low-tech and effective, at least for my creaky dashboard.
#2
Posted 23 October 2009 - 07:05 PM
foxtrapper, on 23 October 2009 - 06:23 PM, said:
But it was. I took some black hardware store foam weatherstripping and stuffed it into that gap. It pushes out on the dashboard just like my fingertips were. NO MORE CREAKING!
Cheap, low-tech and effective, at least for my creaky dashboard.
Wow,
I have the same noise and will try this trick!
Thanks!
#5
Posted 23 October 2009 - 09:31 PM
#6
Posted 23 October 2009 - 10:32 PM
This is the right fix.... Yes, it is a chore, but it LASTS
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/68951-dash-removal-writeup/
1998 S70 N/A196K - stock; 1996 850R - ARD M4.4Green tune, R exhuast manifold, NA TB w/960 plate, Bilstein HD's, C70'vert subframe, RIP kit, custom HD TCV, SNABB Intake pipe, Kilen springs, lots more...
#7 Guest_t5er_*
Posted 23 October 2009 - 11:34 PM
#8
Posted 24 October 2009 - 06:05 AM
If it's loose, jamming something in there will only make it get worse.
#9
Posted 24 October 2009 - 06:20 AM

Nadine | ME7 S70 T5 601
Amalthea | TME | Bilstein | iPd | Xpel | PowerSlot | Stylin' | Snabb
Maria Fumaça | 855 T5 418 - dead
#10
Posted 24 October 2009 - 12:53 PM
dongle, on 23 October 2009 - 09:31 PM, said:
JordanW, on 23 October 2009 - 10:32 PM, said:
This is the right fix.... Yes, it is a chore, but it LASTS
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/68951-dash-removal-writeup/
You can try to tighten the 4 dash bolts under the wiper panel, be gentle cause it sounds like the plastic retainers are already getting weak. No matter, soon there won't be enough foam or paper to wedge in the seams to stop the dash from bouncing around. Check out the link JordanW posted so you can be prepared
Lowered IPD front springs & Intrax rear springs w/ Koni yellow adjustables x4,, 18" Motegi Racing wheels, Federal SS595 tires
HKS BOV, Boosted!! R Exhaust manifold, Custom Cat-back Magnaflow exhaust Etc :)
#11
Posted 24 October 2009 - 02:22 PM
smokin' T5M, on 24 October 2009 - 12:53 PM, said:
yeah if you tighten the bolts too tight the next bump you hit you're going to hear a big POP!!! that's when you have to take out the whole lower dash to repair and re-install those crappy originally designed retaining tabs, and reinforce them with metal. and then manage to re-install the whole lower dash. ask me how i know
S70 T-5R
FMIC | Koni Sport & Kilen | LOLtune | 302JV Brake Kit | OBX(TBA)Magnaflow Catback | Gold Canistos | 6K Projector lows, 4.3k Fogs | T-5R Two-Tone interior | Red LED swap
LED's for X70's
#12
Posted 24 October 2009 - 10:01 PM
1998 S70 N/A196K - stock; 1996 850R - ARD M4.4Green tune, R exhuast manifold, NA TB w/960 plate, Bilstein HD's, C70'vert subframe, RIP kit, custom HD TCV, SNABB Intake pipe, Kilen springs, lots more...
#13
Posted 25 October 2009 - 01:51 AM
Pull the cowl and snug the bolts as stated numerous times...just snug not 1/2" breaker bar tight
#14
Posted 25 October 2009 - 02:49 AM
#15
Posted 25 October 2009 - 04:45 AM
Black Betty, on 25 October 2009 - 02:49 AM, said:
yeah but how long did it take the first time? I can swap a blower in about 20 minutes now, but it took an hour the first time.
Nothing makes you feel as stupid as reinstalling a bad part you just removed...
#16
Posted 25 October 2009 - 04:55 AM
MyCarIsRed, on 25 October 2009 - 04:45 AM, said:
Nothing makes you feel as stupid as reinstalling a bad part you just removed...
Basically all you do is remove the dash pad then remove 6 bolts. Two in the cabin 4 in the engine, opps forgot you need to remove the cowl cover to get to the last 4 bolts, still its like 14 bolts. The first time i took out the two bolts in the cabin and tried to remove it. Then I reconsulted the haynes manual and removed the 4 under the hood
For example removing the heater core today I had removed all but one bolt and could not get it out (obviously) reconsulted the haynes manual and found the last hidden bolt. I got mine for 10 on ebay and I always use it. Once you work on these cars for a little you tend to pick up on how everything works and even if you haven't removed something before you generally can figure it out.
#17
Posted 27 October 2009 - 11:10 PM
I shut up my creaking dash with a bit of foam weatherstripping. Nothing more.
#18
Posted 29 October 2009 - 12:34 AM
Jaxx, on 24 October 2009 - 06:20 AM, said:
Yep, 4 screws that hold the dash to the firewall. Tightening them helps get rid of A LOT of noise. Be careful not to over-tighten as you may break the attachment points on the actual dash, fixing it is no fun.
I also tried the wedge method before, and it works VERY well, but it puts unnecessary stress on the windshield and dash itself. Other parts will begin to make noise eventually. My dash developed a nasty new sound that I am having to remove the dash for the 3rd time to remedy. Very annoying.
Best of luck in your dash noise reduction endeavors!
Black Betty, on 25 October 2009 - 02:49 AM, said:
Use the torx that's included in the stock tool kit, It's long and narrow, you can then use a pair of pliers to grab onto the little wings that the handle sits on.
Serge - 95 850 T5
• Koni Yellows • ST ECU @ 17psi • Orange LED Dash • Custom Dimmer • LED Brake Lights • TSX HID Projector Retro • R-bumper • Carpc • Hella Raintronic •

#19
Posted 29 October 2009 - 11:41 AM
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