Okay, so I had a mechanic replace my wheel bearing hub when he did the cv axle replacement (was leaking severely). After I got the car home, I looked under the car and saw that the original bearing hub bolts were still on there. He apparently reused the old bolts instead of buying new ones.
1. I this a major problem? Is it a big deal if the bolts are reused?
2. If it is a problem, could I just jack the car up, remove the wheel, loosen each hub bolt a bit, and replace them one by one without taking the rotor and caliper off? I know I could take it back to the mechanic and make a stink, but if the above method is feasible I'd rather just do it myself.
What do you guys think? Trying to find the easiest way to replace the bolts, if it's even necessary.

Mechanic Reused Wheel Bearing Bolts When Replacing Bearing
Started by bob850, Oct 23 2009 08:50 PM
5 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 23 October 2009 - 08:50 PM
1996 850 Turbo Wagon - approx 110K miles, IPD Stage 1 ECU, Koni FSD, IPD sways, Snabb intake pipe, IPD HD TCV, IPD HD CBV
1997 850 GLT Wagon (LPT) - approx 160K miles, Koni FSD, IPD sways & endlinks
1997 850 GLT Wagon (LPT) - approx 160K miles, Koni FSD, IPD sways & endlinks
#2
Posted 23 October 2009 - 10:54 PM
bob850, on 23 October 2009 - 08:50 PM, said:
Okay, so I had a mechanic replace my wheel bearing hub when he did the cv axle replacement (was leaking severely). After I got the car home, I looked under the car and saw that the original bearing hub bolts were still on there. He apparently reused the old bolts instead of buying new ones.
1. I this a major problem? Is it a big deal if the bolts are reused?
2. If it is a problem, could I just jack the car up, remove the wheel, loosen each hub bolt a bit, and replace them one by one without taking the rotor and caliper off? I know I could take it back to the mechanic and make a stink, but if the above method is feasible I'd rather just do it myself.
What do you guys think? Trying to find the easiest way to replace the bolts, if it's even necessary.
1. I this a major problem? Is it a big deal if the bolts are reused?
2. If it is a problem, could I just jack the car up, remove the wheel, loosen each hub bolt a bit, and replace them one by one without taking the rotor and caliper off? I know I could take it back to the mechanic and make a stink, but if the above method is feasible I'd rather just do it myself.
What do you guys think? Trying to find the easiest way to replace the bolts, if it's even necessary.
If it bothers you, then by all means take it back to your mech and have him replace them.
Unfortunetaly, you cant take those reversed torx bolts out without removing the axles, which would mean removing one end of the sway bar links, the arms in one end (bj or the subframe fasteners). Caliper and rotors too.
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#3
Posted 24 October 2009 - 12:42 AM
Don't worry about the bolts, maybe about your mechanic, but the bolts will be fine.
1997 850 R, 1998 S70 GLT, 1998 S70 NA (parts car), 1999 S70 NA, 1998 V70 NA, 1969 MGC.
#4
Posted 24 October 2009 - 12:47 AM
I definitely wouldn't worry about the bolts. If he used an aftermarket wheel bearing, some dont come with newer bolts. they're a pretty big bolt (dont know the exact M size) and aren't stretch to yield so reusing them doesn't hurt any.
1998 S70 Automagik - M56 Swap - RSI Rods - OS2 Pistons - 440cc injectors - 19T Hybrid - 21psi after engine break in
FOR SALE: Automatic Transmission 94-98 850/X70 - 260000km 3 synthetic flushes
98 T5 Engine - 265000km 155psi across board
FOR SALE: Automatic Transmission 94-98 850/X70 - 260000km 3 synthetic flushes
98 T5 Engine - 265000km 155psi across board
#5
Posted 24 October 2009 - 02:16 AM
PsychoWagon, on 24 October 2009 - 12:47 AM, said:
I definitely wouldn't worry about the bolts. If he used an aftermarket wheel bearing, some dont come with newer bolts. they're a pretty big bolt (dont know the exact M size) and aren't stretch to yield so reusing them doesn't hurt any.
+1 and I know from experience, it's not worth the savings to use after market wheel bearings. OEM's are SKF units and will last a lot longer.
'98 S70 NA Silver Stock 220K
Toronto CAN A DA.
Toronto CAN A DA.
#6
Posted 24 October 2009 - 12:26 PM
Ronny, on 24 October 2009 - 02:16 AM, said:
+1 and I know from experience, it's not worth the savings to use after market wheel bearings. OEM's are SKF units and will last a lot longer.
The bearing he used is an SKF. I guess I won't worry about the bolts.
1996 850 Turbo Wagon - approx 110K miles, IPD Stage 1 ECU, Koni FSD, IPD sways, Snabb intake pipe, IPD HD TCV, IPD HD CBV
1997 850 GLT Wagon (LPT) - approx 160K miles, Koni FSD, IPD sways & endlinks
1997 850 GLT Wagon (LPT) - approx 160K miles, Koni FSD, IPD sways & endlinks
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