Ok so im goin to try to finish my build by the end of next summer, but need to know what else to do to make it the best track car it can be (reasonably) engine performancewys i think im set i dont really want any more power than i have, but should i still build the motor (rods/pistons) to be safer?... i kno i still need to add a bit more to the cage, an get a steering wheel.
but what should i do mostly suspensionwys... I have kw v2 coilovers an qbm endlinks already.. look at my sig to see what is already done with it.... Here we go.
solid motor mounts? (what are the downsides?)
Sway bars? where to get like a 28mm (can it be made?)
tyres (what should i go with?)
Brakes (do i really have to spend 3k on the brembos or will the 800 dollar wilwoods be ok?)
Aerodynamics, with my care fully gutted the a$$ end is really light an josh said i will need a wing (what kind should i go with?)
and what else should i do if i wanted to have this fully built?
thanks so James
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21 replies to this topic
#1
cr854r
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Posted 11 November 2009 - 05:27 PM
Projekt R-Megasquirt, 18t, 3in turbo back, kw v2 coilovers, M56H, fmic, 16 point roll cage, corbeau seat/harness, gutted to hell, *solid bushings, *F/R sways, walbro 255, 450cc injectors, NA cams, willwood brakes, port/polished head, *rsi rods, *R mani, adjustable control arms, adjustable strut top mounts, adjustable sway bar links... etc etc
#2
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Posted 11 November 2009 - 05:31 PM
Do you have a EBC yet?
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#3
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Posted 11 November 2009 - 05:34 PM
cr854r, on 11 November 2009 - 05:27 PM, said:
Brakes (do i really have to spend 3k on the brembos or will the 800 dollar wilwoods be ok?)
I don't think you want willwoods for the track, street yes, track no.
I picked a pretty circuitous route and arguably cheated slightly, but I'm going to get there
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#4
Jaxx
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Posted 11 November 2009 - 05:34 PM
Do you want to run street tires or not?
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#5
cr854r
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Posted 11 November 2009 - 05:37 PM
I dont have an ebc yet, should i get it? (why) controll spikes?
So do i have to go with the brembos probably?
No i dont plan on running street tyres, although i have been doin research on track tyres and am in between Dunlap and Nittos or am i wrong.
So do i have to go with the brembos probably?
No i dont plan on running street tyres, although i have been doin research on track tyres and am in between Dunlap and Nittos or am i wrong.
Projekt R-Megasquirt, 18t, 3in turbo back, kw v2 coilovers, M56H, fmic, 16 point roll cage, corbeau seat/harness, gutted to hell, *solid bushings, *F/R sways, walbro 255, 450cc injectors, NA cams, willwood brakes, port/polished head, *rsi rods, *R mani, adjustable control arms, adjustable strut top mounts, adjustable sway bar links... etc etc
#6
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Posted 11 November 2009 - 05:42 PM
Dont go WW!
My brembo BBK front was 500$ for the calipers 150$ for the adapters, 90$ for the pads 120$ for the rotors
so front was 860$ total
the rears i got the calipers for 300$ the rear adapters are ~140 iirc and you will need pads and rotors... havent finished up the rear yet.
but total is def less than 3k
more like 1500$ for a complete Brembo setup.
PM Gary about china fronts... he may have a connection.
My brembo BBK front was 500$ for the calipers 150$ for the adapters, 90$ for the pads 120$ for the rotors
so front was 860$ total
the rears i got the calipers for 300$ the rear adapters are ~140 iirc and you will need pads and rotors... havent finished up the rear yet.
but total is def less than 3k
more like 1500$ for a complete Brembo setup.PM Gary about china fronts... he may have a connection.
-Kevin-
04' Subaru WRX Wagon
:( 96' White 854, 19t, Quaife M56H, Turbo tuner :(
#7
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Posted 11 November 2009 - 05:45 PM
cr854r, on 11 November 2009 - 05:37 PM, said:
I dont have an ebc yet, should i get it? (why) controll spikes?
So do i have to go with the brembos probably?
No i dont plan on running street tyres, although i have been doin research on track tyres and am in between Dunlap and Nittos or am i wrong.
So do i have to go with the brembos probably?
No i dont plan on running street tyres, although i have been doin research on track tyres and am in between Dunlap and Nittos or am i wrong.
Nadine | ME7 S70 T5 601
Amalthea | TME | Bilstein | iPd | Xpel | PowerSlot | Stylin' | Snabb
Maria Fumaça | 855 T5 418 - dead
#8
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Posted 11 November 2009 - 06:22 PM
You really need to look at the rules for the class you want to run in to make sure they don't have issues with various mods.
Tires - You will probably want to go with an R compound. The R888 is not great and they are bringing back the RA1 so if you have time to wait then I would do that. If you MUST go with street tires then look at the RE-11 as it seems to be the best of the uber streets. Keep in mind, we don't have much room for wide tires so it is pretty easy to overheat streets. Try to put them on the lightest wheel you can find while you are at it.
Brakes - The most important factor is pads. With a stripped out car even a 302 set-up with a legit track pad will do well. In fact, it will be far better than a set of brembos with street pads. Good track pads will be a couple of hundred dollars a set but they will take the heat and last FAR longer than street pads will. As for the Brembo vs. Willwood debate, I would go with the option that has the cheapest track pads available. If you really want the best set-up then look for a 2 piece rotor as that will probably give you a bigger benefit than more expensive callipers.
Other - Look into solid subframe mounts before solid engine mounts. Keep your eyes peeled as some of us are looking into Derlin ones from Europe and keeping our eyes peeled for other options. You should also make sure that the rest of the rubber bits are in great shape (don't forget the rubber in the rear arms).
Tires - You will probably want to go with an R compound. The R888 is not great and they are bringing back the RA1 so if you have time to wait then I would do that. If you MUST go with street tires then look at the RE-11 as it seems to be the best of the uber streets. Keep in mind, we don't have much room for wide tires so it is pretty easy to overheat streets. Try to put them on the lightest wheel you can find while you are at it.
Brakes - The most important factor is pads. With a stripped out car even a 302 set-up with a legit track pad will do well. In fact, it will be far better than a set of brembos with street pads. Good track pads will be a couple of hundred dollars a set but they will take the heat and last FAR longer than street pads will. As for the Brembo vs. Willwood debate, I would go with the option that has the cheapest track pads available. If you really want the best set-up then look for a 2 piece rotor as that will probably give you a bigger benefit than more expensive callipers.
Other - Look into solid subframe mounts before solid engine mounts. Keep your eyes peeled as some of us are looking into Derlin ones from Europe and keeping our eyes peeled for other options. You should also make sure that the rest of the rubber bits are in great shape (don't forget the rubber in the rear arms).
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#9
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Posted 11 November 2009 - 06:28 PM
Hanks, on 11 November 2009 - 05:42 PM, said:
Dont go WW!
My brembo BBK front was 500$ for the calipers 150$ for the adapters, 90$ for the pads 120$ for the rotors
so front was 860$ total
the rears i got the calipers for 300$ the rear adapters are ~140 iirc and you will need pads and rotors... havent finished up the rear yet.
but total is def less than 3k more like 1500$ for a complete Brembo setup.
PM Gary about china fronts... he may have a connection.
My brembo BBK front was 500$ for the calipers 150$ for the adapters, 90$ for the pads 120$ for the rotors
so front was 860$ total
the rears i got the calipers for 300$ the rear adapters are ~140 iirc and you will need pads and rotors... havent finished up the rear yet.
but total is def less than 3k
more like 1500$ for a complete Brembo setup.PM Gary about china fronts... he may have a connection.
Can still use the E-brake with the Brembo rears?
S70 T5M SE. 115K - Cryo treated built Motor - Head worked - M59 Tranny - Cryo'd R Clutch - Precsion FMIC - Precsion 5031E Turbo (AKA 50 trim 63AR) - 93 NA Cams - Sconeman 3" post MAF pipe - Forge DV- 630cc EV14s - UR Pulley - Ported R Mani - NA TB 960 plate - 3"DP racecat & ES catback - MSD 6A & Coil - Injen Filter - CF Strut brace - IPD mounts - AEM gauges - CF engine cover - Porsche TT BBK - Koni Yellows - 25mm IPD Sways F & R - IPD 1.7" springs - TKI endlinks - 18" Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2s - ABM Headlights - 5000K HIDs - R Bumper - XC Grill - Devils Own Meth Injection - 4.4M Turbo Tuner - ect ect... Never sees winter! Other cars - Infiniti35 - Trailblazer SS - 2 GrandPrix GTs
#10
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Posted 11 November 2009 - 07:00 PM
the ebrake is a completely separate system than the actual brakes...it does not use the calipers. fyi, you should not be using the ebrake while driving.
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#11
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Posted 11 November 2009 - 08:33 PM
Poly bushing in the front control arms and subframe will be a major improvement along with upgraded sway bars. As for brakes, a 2 piece rotor and track pads will help the most (as previously stated). This does not mean you won't feel a improvement with better calipers but the pads and rotors will provide more braking then just calipers. For keeping the rear end planted try softer settings for your KW's in the rear. with a rear wing you will probably need to support it with bracing the trunk lid to get the full effect of the downforce. Other then that a serious tire will be the biggest improvement all around
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#12
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Posted 11 November 2009 - 08:43 PM
cr854r, on 11 November 2009 - 05:37 PM, said:
I dont have an ebc yet, should i get it? (why) controll spikes?
1 of 1 - '97 427 854R - 110k
STACK STACK STACK /// - IPD Stage 1 Tune - /// - EST Intake - /// - Bilstein TC - /// - Kilen Springs - /// - ATE Slotted 302mm Front ATE Slotted Rear
#13
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Posted 11 November 2009 - 08:43 PM
Modify an oil pan with better baffling and/or trapdoors and/or more capacity...
Oil level being even a little low can result in oil pressure drops on hard left hand corners.
Oil level being even a little low can result in oil pressure drops on hard left hand corners.
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#14
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Posted 12 November 2009 - 05:25 AM
you ran a 12.9 @ 110mph!?!?!?!?
I must have missed that! Awesome
I must have missed that! Awesome
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FOR SALE: Used 75k Miles OEM 16T Turbo/Angled/Ipd HD CBV - PM ME
FOR SALE: Used 75k Miles OEM 16T Turbo/Angled/Ipd HD CBV - PM ME
#15
OniFactor
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Posted 12 November 2009 - 05:48 AM
when you say track, do you mean drag car, or road course?
#16
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Posted 12 November 2009 - 06:50 AM
OniFactor, on 12 November 2009 - 05:48 AM, said:
when you say track, do you mean drag car, or road course?
turns, of the left and right variety.
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#17
dublin14
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Posted 12 November 2009 - 09:53 AM
Hanks, on 11 November 2009 - 07:00 PM, said:
the ebrake is a completely separate system than the actual brakes...it does not use the calipers. fyi, you should not be using the ebrake while driving.
S70 T5M SE. 115K - Cryo treated built Motor - Head worked - M59 Tranny - Cryo'd R Clutch - Precsion FMIC - Precsion 5031E Turbo (AKA 50 trim 63AR) - 93 NA Cams - Sconeman 3" post MAF pipe - Forge DV- 630cc EV14s - UR Pulley - Ported R Mani - NA TB 960 plate - 3"DP racecat & ES catback - MSD 6A & Coil - Injen Filter - CF Strut brace - IPD mounts - AEM gauges - CF engine cover - Porsche TT BBK - Koni Yellows - 25mm IPD Sways F & R - IPD 1.7" springs - TKI endlinks - 18" Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2s - ABM Headlights - 5000K HIDs - R Bumper - XC Grill - Devils Own Meth Injection - 4.4M Turbo Tuner - ect ect... Never sees winter! Other cars - Infiniti35 - Trailblazer SS - 2 GrandPrix GTs
#18
cr854r
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Posted 12 November 2009 - 01:48 PM
Hanks, on 11 November 2009 - 05:42 PM, said:
Dont go WW!
My brembo BBK front was 500$ for the calipers 150$ for the adapters, 90$ for the pads 120$ for the rotors
so front was 860$ total
the rears i got the calipers for 300$ the rear adapters are ~140 iirc and you will need pads and rotors... havent finished up the rear yet.
but total is def less than 3k more like 1500$ for a complete Brembo setup.
PM Gary about china fronts... he may have a connection.
My brembo BBK front was 500$ for the calipers 150$ for the adapters, 90$ for the pads 120$ for the rotors
so front was 860$ total
the rears i got the calipers for 300$ the rear adapters are ~140 iirc and you will need pads and rotors... havent finished up the rear yet.
but total is def less than 3k
more like 1500$ for a complete Brembo setup.PM Gary about china fronts... he may have a connection.
im sorry... whats garys username?
Projekt R-Megasquirt, 18t, 3in turbo back, kw v2 coilovers, M56H, fmic, 16 point roll cage, corbeau seat/harness, gutted to hell, *solid bushings, *F/R sways, walbro 255, 450cc injectors, NA cams, willwood brakes, port/polished head, *rsi rods, *R mani, adjustable control arms, adjustable strut top mounts, adjustable sway bar links... etc etc
#19
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Posted 12 November 2009 - 01:49 PM
cr854r, on 12 November 2009 - 01:48 PM, said:
im sorry... whats garys username?
1 of 1 - '97 427 854R - 110k
STACK STACK STACK /// - IPD Stage 1 Tune - /// - EST Intake - /// - Bilstein TC - /// - Kilen Springs - /// - ATE Slotted 302mm Front ATE Slotted Rear
#20
gmsgltr
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Posted 12 November 2009 - 06:19 PM
gmsgltr, on 12 November 2009 - 05:25 AM, said:
you ran a 12.9 @ 110mph!?!?!?!?
I must have missed that! Awesome
I must have missed that! Awesome
so......................
- Greg - 96 Red/Tan 855 R 96k miles -
FOR SALE: Used 75k Miles OEM 16T Turbo/Angled/Ipd HD CBV - PM ME
FOR SALE: Used 75k Miles OEM 16T Turbo/Angled/Ipd HD CBV - PM ME
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