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Rica Tune = Huge Boost Leak And Low Power


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#21 EricF

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 08:13 PM

View PostL8 APEKS, on 16 November 2009 - 05:34 PM, said:

Thanks for the ideas guys.

I think I found my leak...the hose clamp on the turbo's outlet (turbo to upper IC pipe) wasn't even tightened down. The PO must have been driving this way for some time. Some things had been replaced in that area of the car; I guess they forgot to tighten that clamp.

My question is...how the heck do you get down there to tighten that thing?! I now see why redblock guys don't like the FWD cars - the turbo is impossible to access. I also see that it's damn near impossible to remove the CBV as well.

Stubby screwdriver, carpal tunnel syndrome, and some choice curse words? Am I missing anything? I don't know how I'm gonna reach that POS. lol.

Oh...also...I'm probably running lean under boost. The vac line to the bottom of the FPR blows out; this would mean I'm not getting the step-up in fuel pressure with boost (it would stay at the static pressure...are these 3.0 bar or so?).

I gotta get that sorted out too. Looks like a trip to the Stealership for some decent vac line and an 8V intake mani gasket for my grandma's 740.

That is so hilarious. The loss of metered air (which usually causes fuel to get dumped unnecessarily) through the boost leak, and the loss of pressure signal to the FPR (which normally causes drastic leanness) sound like they are cancelling each other out :lol: I have never seen anything like that before.


Back on topic, you may want to reset the ECU to let it re-learn the long term fuel trims and see if you can get rid of your pinging.

Also, you do not have a boost gauge correct? I would check to ensure that the signal line to the wastegate is intact if in fact you are getting ping. It's possible you're seeing much more boost than 18. I know that an off the shelf tune will not generally produce any audible ping with 93 octane... I don't know that 91 would be that much worse.
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#22 brad850

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 08:13 PM

For the CBV try going under the car Posted Image... still a little tough to get to.
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#23 EricF

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 08:16 PM

View Postbrad850, on 16 November 2009 - 08:13 PM, said:

For the CBV try going under the car Posted Image... still a little tough to get to.


The two key components to working on 850s with as little headache as possible are:
- Be prepared to remove something out of the engine bay that is in the way of what you want to reach
- Be prepared to be under the car

850s have great accessibility to just about everything. It's not a tiny engine in a giant bay like a 240 or 740, but everything is placed very logically and is pretty damn accessible.
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#24 L8 APEKS

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 08:22 PM

Thanks guys.

WG actuator line is OK. Can I un-plug the ECU to reset it? I don't want to unhook the battery and lose the INFO stuff, as that's what I use for my ODO at the moment!

#25 ryan850-t5

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 09:32 PM

I'm pretty sure to reset the ecu you touch the positive and neg cables together for like a minute (make sure not to touch the neg cable to the pos terminal :o :lol: ).

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#26 7 VII 7

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 09:40 PM

View Postryan850-t5, on 16 November 2009 - 09:32 PM, said:

I'm pretty sure to reset the ecu you touch the positive and neg cables together for like a minute (make sure not to touch the neg cable to the pos terminal :o :lol: ).
dont tell him that!

pull the ecu for 10 to 15mins and put it back in.

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#27 Jaxx

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 09:45 PM

View Post7 VII 7, on 16 November 2009 - 09:40 PM, said:

dont tell him that!

pull the ecu for 10 to 15mins and put it back in.

I've heard 3 hours. Do it overnight to be sure. 15min battery pull clears codes.

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#28 7 VII 7

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 09:47 PM

View PostJaxx, on 16 November 2009 - 09:45 PM, said:

I've heard 3 hours. Do it overnight to be sure. 15min battery pull clears codes.
hmmmm... Lucky told me 10 to 15mins to reset

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