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Dry Sump Kits For The 5Cyl Finally Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   cr854r Icon

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Posted 16 November 2009 - 10:17 PM

heres a guy whos selling a few.... dont forget to sign in:rolleyes:

http://forums.turbob...d=1#post2775316
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Posted 16 November 2009 - 10:38 PM

Why is the top side of the new pan not shown? <_< :ph34r:
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#3 User is offline   lookforjoe Icon

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 02:37 AM

Yeah, I saw that some time ago... I think the remote oil pump required will be more than the pan...

not sure if it's really worth the $$$$, but it would solve my crankcase pressure issues :rolleyes:
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#4 User is offline   ozzimark Icon

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 02:59 AM

View Postlookforjoe, on 16 November 2009 - 09:37 PM, said:

but it would solve my crankcase pressure issues :rolleyes:

Now that you mention that, it certainly would. And you could plumb the vent from the head down into the drain for the catch can, since there will be vacuum on that, and it will remove any positive pressure up top without having to deal with a catch can, no?

Hm, I guess that wouldn't really work, since anything leaking past the rings or valve seals has to go somewhere, and the sump pump isn't going to magically make it go away :lol:
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#5 User is offline   Che'_Moderator Icon

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 03:10 AM

LOL. You can dry sump the OEM pan. The parts that are a PITA are the, pump, accumulator, all the lines, and the brackets and block offs.

Figure ON THE CHEAP, 300 for the oil tank, 300 for a manifold and 3-4 stage pump, 200 in lines and fittings, and another 200 in misc hardware.
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#6 User is offline   Black Betty Icon

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 03:54 AM

View PostChe, on 16 November 2009 - 10:10 PM, said:

LOL. You can dry sump the OEM pan. The parts that are a PITA are the, pump, accumulator, all the lines, and the brackets and block offs.

Figure ON THE CHEAP, 300 for the oil tank, 300 for a manifold and 3-4 stage pump, 200 in lines and fittings, and another 200 in misc hardware.


If I could find one for that price I would consider it but for 1200 and a pump and tank needed no thanks.
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#7 User is offline   dongle Icon

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 08:18 PM

There is no reason it should cost that much to make that pan anyway. He's got maybe $150 in materials. It wouldn't even be that hard to cad that plate anyway. Oem pan + photocopyer. Done.
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#8 User is offline   Che'_Moderator Icon

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 08:22 PM

View Postdongle, on 17 November 2009 - 02:18 PM, said:

There is no reason it should cost that much to make that pan anyway. He's got maybe $150 in materials. It wouldn't even be that hard to cad that plate anyway. Oem pan + photocopyer. Done.


500-700 is not a bad price persay, but pan is only like 1/4 the total price of dry-sumping an engine.
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#9 User is offline   Black Betty Icon

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 08:52 PM

View PostChe, on 17 November 2009 - 03:22 PM, said:

500-700 is not a bad price persay, but pan is only like 1/4 the total price of dry-sumping an engine.


the price listed was 750 euros so about 1100 us
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#10 User is offline   Che'_Moderator Icon

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 09:13 PM

View PostBlack Betty, on 17 November 2009 - 02:52 PM, said:

the price listed was 750 euros so about 1100 us


OK thats retarded. Weld up the stock pad for ~200 + maybe 50 for a core.
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#11 User is offline   Black Betty Icon

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 09:52 PM

View PostChe, on 17 November 2009 - 04:13 PM, said:

OK thats retarded. Weld up the stock pad for ~200 + maybe 50 for a core.


yeah at first I was like Posted ImagePosted Image then Posted ImagePosted ImagePosted Image

In your opinion for the basic build most people on here do, ported manifolds, ported head and gt35r is this even necessary? Eventually I'd like to go with a similar build and I'm not tracking the car. So I dont believe i'd ever see a high enough g force to cause oil starvation. But I haven't investigated much either. I dont suppose baffles could be used like in gas tanks?
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Posted 17 November 2009 - 10:17 PM

Its not needed at all unless you are doing it for:

1. Ground Clearance
2. More HP
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#13 User is offline   ozzimark Icon

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Posted 17 November 2009 - 10:25 PM

View PostChe, on 17 November 2009 - 05:17 PM, said:

Its not needed at all unless you are doing it for:

1. Ground Clearance
2. More HP

And would be best suited for those who can get their hands on a custom transmission that allows them to drop the engine a few inches without making a retarded angle on the CV joints, and don't mind much longer oil warm-up times. Daily drivers need not apply here :lol: <_<

How much does it take to starve the stock oil pump in a properly filled FWD whiteblock anyway?
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#14 User is offline   Cal3thousand Icon

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 12:37 AM

View Postozzimark, on 17 November 2009 - 02:25 PM, said:

And would be best suited for those who can get their hands on a custom transmission that allows them to drop the engine a few inches without making a retarded angle on the CV joints, and don't mind much longer oil warm-up times. Daily drivers need not apply here :lol: <_<

How much does it take to starve the stock oil pump in a properly filled FWD whiteblock anyway?



More Gs than your tires will handle :lol: :lol:
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#15 User is offline   Che'_Moderator Icon

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 12:44 AM

View PostCal3thousand, on 17 November 2009 - 06:37 PM, said:

More Gs than your tires will handle :lol: :lol:


And about 3gs more than a 200 dollar oil accumulator can handle.
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#16 User is online   Hanks Icon

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Posted 18 November 2009 - 12:58 AM

if your looking for ground clearance. get a 960 pan, cut and weld it back together (-1 cylinder worth) and you instantly have ~2" more ground clearance.

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well kinda :P


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