13 replies to this topic

[Oreo931]

Just wanted to post this "tutorial" here, and some pics/info from my experience. This will hopefully save people time and money (particularly with the damn ball seat).

Shout out to Yangotang for his direction/help.





Now my pics/info from the reconditioning.

These are the parts you will need:



Volvo Grease - 1161236 (~$5)
Shifter ball seat - 3502504 - ($29.15)
Shifter O-ring - 977579 ($2.85)


Start here:



Pry off the first outer clip - It sits in a divot as seen in the poor picture below:





Remove washer:



Remove white piece:



All pieces removed (do not lose these)



Remove the T shaped shifter piece. It should pop right out. If you have the shifter cables connected, you will need to remove the bottom one. You can do this by prying it off (or like I did, yanking up on the T shaped piece till it popped out of the shift cable).






What you are left with: (o-ring sits in the bottom of this circular groove)



Clean ALL pieces very well and make sure you remove all signs of grease.

Now, BEFORE PUTTING EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER, GREASE EVERY MOVING PART VERY WELL, AND THEN PUT THE PLASTIC BALL SEAT ONTO THE BLACK BALL. If you do this BEFORE putting the black ball inside of the shifter assembly it will be 100000X easier to put on. The ball seat just slides right on to the black ball piece when it is removed from the assembly. If you still dont get what I am saying, put the ball seat on when the black ball T piece is removed and looks like this:



The last step will be snapping the ball seat on to the shifter assembly.

Use a C clamp like so, and clamp each side down until it clicks into the shifter assembly:





You should end up with this!






Now, assemble the rest of shifter assembly...Install is the reverse of removal. Install all the clips/clamps in reverse order, and make sure to reconnect the shifter cables.




And just because....Money shot

[yangotang]

nice boot.

[mkc70]

Good write up with plenty of pics. What was the condition of the old o-ring that you removed?

[Oreo931]

 mkc70, on 19 December 2009 - 02:42 AM, said:

Good write up with plenty of pics. What was the condition of the old o-ring that you removed?

It was a little smushed/wider compared to the new one, but not too bad. It only had 120k on it. Definitely not dried out or anything. But I notice a difference with the new parts compared to the old one. Could be the new grease, new o-ring, or new ball seat. Or all three!

Here is a pic of the old o-ring, doesnt look too bad.

[jnderr]

You sprung for the T-5R suede/walnut boot and knob, nice touch.

[yangotang]

 jnderr, on 19 December 2009 - 05:02 AM, said:

You sprung for the T-5R suede/walnut boot and knob, nice touch.

he bought it from me I still have an extra knob + boot too!

[Oreo931]

 jnderr, on 19 December 2009 - 05:02 AM, said:

You sprung for the T-5R suede/walnut boot and knob, nice touch.

Thanks!! Can't wait to install everything

I figured if I was going to do the swap I might as well go all out

[B Mac]

Adam you can't polish a turd...might as well stop while you're ahead buddy!

[Chilled Man]

 B Mac, on 20 December 2009 - 12:07 AM, said:

Adam you can't polish a turd...might as well stop while you're ahead buddy!

you of anyone has no room to speak

[Che'_Moderator]

If Adam ever deletes his photobucket this can be found here:

http://volvospeed.co...r_assembly.html

I even added an easter egg

[lulumike]

Oreo931, your recommendation to use the C clamp press method rather than the Volvo method of tapping the ball seat back in with those drift tools (999-2412) and spacer makes much more sense. Especially since I gave up trying to put the ball seat back in to the assembly and had to take it to volvo. The specialist mechanic at Volvo cracked the ball seat putting the ball seat back in, so they now have to reorder another and redo it. I wonder if they even know about your C clamp press method? Maybe he didn't put the ball seat onto the shifter shaft ball while it was outside the assembly but tried to put it in while the shifter and ball were still in the assembly--which is the way I cracked it using their recommended tool. My advice is: if you want to take out the ball seat--even if it's cracked but is in securely--don't! It'll never come out from just shifting the gears.

[Oreo931]

 lulumike, on 20 October 2011 - 08:36 AM, said:

Oreo931, your recommendation to use the C clamp press method rather than the Volvo method of tapping the ball seat back in with those drift tools (999-2412) and spacer makes much more sense. Especially since I gave up trying to put the ball seat back in to the assembly and had to take it to volvo. The specialist mechanic at Volvo cracked the ball seat putting the ball seat back in, so they now have to reorder another and redo it. I wonder if they even know about your C clamp press method? Maybe he didn't put the ball seat onto the shifter shaft ball while it was outside the assembly but tried to put it in while the shifter and ball were still in the assembly--which is the way I cracked it using their recommended tool. My advice is: if you want to take out the ball seat--even if it's cracked but is in securely--don't! It'll never come out from just shifting the gears.

I cracked a brand new ball seat originally, which is why I went with the c-clamp method the second time around. Each ball seat is like $35, so I wouldn't recommend trying to tap it in unless you're ok with having to pay another $35

I tried everything the first time around too...boiling the piece, lube, hammers, wood, etc. Still ended up with a broken ball seat. C-clamps for the win!

[scumcity14]

 Oreo931, on 21 October 2011 - 05:16 PM, said:

I cracked a brand new ball seat originally, which is why I went with the c-clamp method the second time around. Each ball seat is like $35, so I wouldn't recommend trying to tap it in unless you're ok with having to pay another $35

I tried everything the first time around too...boiling the piece, lube, hammers, wood, etc. Still ended up with a broken ball seat. C-clamps for the win!

Since this has been resurrected...I am wondering, when you did this did it get rid of that "rattling" play that the shifter has and tighten it up a bit? I am going to do this soon and have done everything else (bushings from Kris etc...)..if that sloppy rattling goes away I will be happy as hell..

[Ihatespeedbumps]

 Oreo931, on 21 October 2011 - 05:16 PM, said:

I cracked a brand new ball seat originally, which is why I went with the c-clamp method the second time around. Each ball seat is like $35, so I wouldn't recommend trying to tap it in unless you're ok with having to pay another $35

I tried everything the first time around too...boiling the piece, lube, hammers, wood, etc. Still ended up with a broken ball seat. C-clamps for the win!

I too cracked a ball seat a few months ago after I whacked it with a drift and hammer C-clamp or hydraulic press is the only way to go.