21 replies to this topic

[Matty Moo]

98 s70 glt, 13g. 238k Compression is about 170ish across all 5 cylinders. Engine is relatively quiet also.

Lots of black smoke. LOTS of oil in the intercooler hoses. Plugs are black. Does not want to run when it warms up, will just sit and sputter. I drove it for 2 blocks and really didn't feel any boost or hear it spool up.

I took the tube off and felt for some shaft play. There's definite play. Can't really say how much since I had to use my left hand to feel for it (my right is casted). A millimeter or two? I need to find somebody with a good right hand to get in there.

Pulled codes. Got 7. Five were for misfires (fouled plugs), an o2 sensor, and the air pump, of course.

Prior owner said it was blowing oil out of the dipstick also, probably a pcv issue, but not sure if that would tie in to the turbo being possibly trashed.

Thanks guys. Spent awhile searching but didn't come up with much.

[GltGreco]

I would start with putting in new plugs and wires and distributor and rotor, that should solve ur misfires. Then do the pcv, and any other basic problems before you worry about a little bit of play in ur turbo, performance is great but make sure the car runs nice before you get to that

[Matty Moo]

gltgreco, on 22 March 2010 - 04:09 AM, said:

I would start with putting in new plugs and wires and distributor and rotor, that should solve ur misfires. Then do the pcv, and any other basic problems before you worry about a little bit of play in ur turbo, performance is great but make sure the car runs nice before you get to that

Go back and re-read the first post please. I wasn't asking for stage zero advice.

Edited by Matty Moo, 22 March 2010 - 04:28 AM.

[GltGreco]

I know that im just saying you asked if these other issues could be signs or results or turbo problems and the best way to go around that is fix the things you know need to be ie plugs pcv etc... and see what issues are still around and work from there.

[Bah]

Curious..

If the turbo was bad, when it heats up and actually starts using live data, why would anything change? or does the SAS provide enough air and when it turns off after the heatup period, you have the issue?
Makes me think electrical, until the mention of shaft play..

[rsmigel]

Matty Moo, on 22 March 2010 - 04:23 AM, said:

Go back and re-read the first post please. I wasn't asking for stage zero advice.

I read your post again and see that you asked no questions. It appears you have everything handled then...

[Matty Moo]

rsmigel, on 22 March 2010 - 02:40 PM, said:

I read your post again and see that you asked no questions. It appears you have everything handled then...

In your case, go back and read the title and subtitle.

Thank you.

[Spanky]

Matty Moo, on 22 March 2010 - 04:04 AM, said:

98 s70 glt, 13g. 238k Compression is about 170ish across all 5 cylinders. Engine is relatively quiet also.

Lots of black smoke. LOTS of oil in the intercooler hoses. Plugs are black. Does not want to run when it warms up, will just sit and sputter. I drove it for 2 blocks and really didn't feel any boost or hear it spool up.

I took the tube off and felt for some shaft play. There's definite play. Can't really say how much since I had to use my left hand to feel for it (my right is casted). A millimeter or two? I need to find somebody with a good right hand to get in there.

Pulled codes. Got 7. Five were for misfires (fouled plugs), an o2 sensor, and the air pump, of course.

Prior owner said it was blowing oil out of the dipstick also, probably a pcv issue, but not sure if that would tie in to the turbo being possibly trashed.

Thanks guys. Spent awhile searching but didn't come up with much.

Put your hand in either the hot or cold side and turn either wheel. You should be able to turn either wheel with one finger and less then a lb of force. Its going to be rather hard to determine if the seals are gone with the turbo on the car.

[Matty Moo]

SPANKY, on 22 March 2010 - 02:57 PM, said:

Put your hand in either the hot or cold side and turn either wheel. You should be able to turn either wheel with one finger and less then a lb of force. Its going to be rather hard to determine if the seals are gone with the turbo on the car.

Thanks Spanky.

I can't stick my right hand down there, since it's in a cast. I really couldn't figure much out with my left hand other than there was some play. It was too awkward stretching over from the other side of the car. I'll have somebody stick their hand down there later today.

I'm also going to see if it makes any noise. I couldn't really do it last night with the family sleeping.

[rsmigel]

gltgreco, on 22 March 2010 - 04:09 AM, said:

I would start with putting in new plugs and wires and distributor and rotor, that should solve ur misfires. Then do the pcv, and any other basic problems before you worry about a little bit of play in ur turbo, performance is great but make sure the car runs nice before you get to that

This is good advice... start from stage zero and work up. I just re-did my PCV and it fixed all oil burning / spark plug fouling / oil leaking problems in one swoop.

[matt b]

No mention of the O2 sensor in other posts, I would replace that first.

I just changed out my turbo, it had shaft play, nothing too drastic but the shop agreed that it was time to replace it. I never got the crazy smoke (which makes me thing your car is running pig rich, as would happen with a bad O2 sensor), never had the sputter, I just had low boost and was losing some oil.

You seem dead set on having people tell you to change out your turbo Do the other stuff first, I've driven cars with blown turbos (the kind where the turbo whines so much, even passengers complain about it) and they still ran fine, they were just slower. I doubt all your issues could be tied back solely to your turbo.

But if you want to replace it for peace of mind, contact Jason (Spanky), he built and sold me my current 16T and it's perfect.

[rsmigel]

... and remove and clean the PTC!

[Matty Moo]

PTC is clean, recent cap, rotor, wires, plugs. Dipstick is not smoking at idle and actually has negative pressure while idling.

[ozzimark]

Black smoke is fuel. Blue smoke is oil. You're running rich, it has nothing to do with the turbo. Replace the ECT and thermostat, if problems persist, O2 sensors.

[Matty Moo]

Just got in from replacing the plugs and front o2 sensor.

No more black smoke, it's blue now and not terrible, but noticeable. No more sputtering.

Right when it's about to boost, it falls flat on it's face. I could drive around no problem just putting around. It doesnt seem to be spooling at all. I'll check all the vac lines, etc. when I have time.

I didn't really have any intentions of ever driving the car, but it's too pretty to tear apart, and the engine seems so quiet. We'll see.

Edited by Matty Moo, 22 March 2010 - 06:01 PM.

[Bah]

Matty Moo, on 22 March 2010 - 05:56 PM, said:

Just got in from replacing the plugs and front o2 sensor.

No more black smoke, it's blue now and not terrible, but noticeable. No more sputtering.

Right when it's about to boost, it falls flat on it's face. I could drive around no problem just putting around. It doesnt seem to be spooling at all. I'll check all the vac lines, etc. when I have time.

I didn't really have any intentions of ever driving the car, but it's too pretty to tear apart, and the engine seems so quiet. We'll see.

=0 How hard was the front O2 sensor one handed?

I've had black smoke from the O2 sensor just being so crummed up, but it depended on the temperature outside. I've noticed the longer you sit on it and let the O2 go, the worst it gets (which makes no sense cause when it throws the code, it ignores the O2 readings right?)

If i had to guess i'd say massive leak (checked plug gap right?) and just leaky valve stems on top of it all? orrr just turbo death time

[Matty Moo]

Bah, on 22 March 2010 - 09:57 PM, said:

=0 How hard was the front O2 sensor one handed?

I've had black smoke from the O2 sensor just being so crummed up, but it depended on the temperature outside. I've noticed the longer you sit on it and let the O2 go, the worst it gets (which makes no sense cause when it throws the code, it ignores the O2 readings right?)

If i had to guess i'd say massive leak (checked plug gap right?) and just leaky valve stems on top of it all? orrr just turbo death time

Not only one handed, but left handed at that. Not the most fun, but I've learned to adapt.

New plugs, gapped to perfection.

As for the turbo, my platinum wagon makes that nice whirring noise when the turbo spools up. This one does nothing but smoke, not spool up and almost make a sound like extreme spark knock. After checking it out in the garage, that noise is coming from the turbo. Not what I wanted, but more or less what I was expecting. The car was bought in non-running condition, so no big deal.

Now, I face an issue. I'm dealing with a car that has 238k on it. I can get a used 13g and toss it on. Then I may have a turbo that works, but what if the valve seals are leaky too. I still have a car that blows oil, is 12 years old with a ton of miles on it. Then the time=money equation, etc.

[rsmigel]

Matty Moo, on 23 March 2010 - 02:44 AM, said:

Now, I face an issue. I'm dealing with a car that has 238k on it. I can get a used 13g and toss it on. Then I may have a turbo that works, but what if the valve seals are leaky too. I still have a car that blows oil, is 12 years old with a ton of miles on it. Then the time=money equation, etc.

Since your compression is OK, your valve seals can't be that bad. Maybe a little smoke at start-up but I could live with that. I'd check the two vacuum lines going to the turbo and the line going to the bottom of the intake pipe. Also check the two vacuum lines going to the front/driver's side of the intake manifold. And check the connection of the pressurized turbo line going to the top of the intercooler. When that big pipe is loose, the car drives exactly like you mentioned (I've experienced it!)

[matt b]

Crazy noise! Sounds like with that many miles it may be dying anyway!

You can find used turbos for as little as $75 on Ebay, 13G's aren't worth much. Toss it in and see what happens. Props to you for doing that much to the car, with one hand! Not sure I could do 1/3 of what you've done and I'be worn casts on my right hand a few times before.

[rsmigel]

I can't find a complete turbo for $75 but you should be able to find a tight, non-rebuilt 13G for $175-$200 on the various Volvo forums. A clean rebuilt Ebay unit runs $400 and up. If you're handy, pick up a loose one for $125-$150 and add $75 to rebuild it yourself.