Got my oil changed today, and my mech said that i was leaking oil. The real main seal needs to be replaced ;(. He says right now it isn't too serious, but it might get worse, and i have noticed my oil level dropping levels at a time...
looks like a $$$ job (or around there). He's pretty sure its a RMS because he's worked on volvos forever.
So while i'm getting this fixed, any other things i should take care off? Flame Trap?
this sux
0
Rear Main Seal
Started by maiku, Mar 06 2005 04:10 AM
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18 replies to this topic
#1
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#2
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Posted 06 March 2005 - 04:15 AM
at the dealer it is $1000 plus the part costs 33$ or less. its an all weekend job. GOT to do mine next weekend I lost 1 qt today alone 
PS if you do the repair yourself be very careful not to pinch the seal
PS if you do the repair yourself be very careful not to pinch the seal
Edited by merlin390, 06 March 2005 - 04:22 AM.
1996 Volvo 854 2.4L non-turbo 212,xxx miles Forsyth, Ga.
Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
302mm brakes, IPD sway bars front and rear, QBM end links, MSD 6A ignition w/Blaster 2 coil pack, Jet Chip, Bilstein Shocks/Struts, R Springs. Hell I can't remember everything else.
Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
302mm brakes, IPD sway bars front and rear, QBM end links, MSD 6A ignition w/Blaster 2 coil pack, Jet Chip, Bilstein Shocks/Struts, R Springs. Hell I can't remember everything else.
#3
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Posted 06 March 2005 - 04:20 AM
QUOTE(anitanium @ Mar 6 2005, 12:10 AM)
Got my oil changed today, and my mech said that i was leaking oil. The real main seal needs to be replaced ;(. He says right now it isn't too serious, but it might get worse, and i have noticed my oil level dropping levels at a time...
looks like a $$$ job (or around there). He's pretty sure its a RMS because he's worked on volvos forever.
So while i'm getting this fixed, any other things i should take care off? Flame Trap?
this sux
looks like a $$$ job (or around there). He's pretty sure its a RMS because he's worked on volvos forever.
So while i'm getting this fixed, any other things i should take care off? Flame Trap?
this sux
Timing Belt, tensioner, water pump, CV Boots<--------Thats what my mechanic told me I needed when I went in for RMS. So I told him to hold on the pump, and boots but do the rest since I was @207k miles. Got my car back and it was still leaking oil all over the back glass (Wagon). turns out it was a $1.00 part, the O-ring for the Turbo Drain that was causing the Oil spray all over the back window...
So did I really need a RMS?...
1994 855T
Performance mods: None so far
Suspension mods: Not yet
Visual mods: Rear Wing, Blacked out tint in the Rear
-=Fact not fiction=-
The sky is not the limit....The Ground is.
If our legs bent backwards what would racing seats look like?
Performance mods: None so far
Suspension mods: Not yet
Visual mods: Rear Wing, Blacked out tint in the Rear
-=Fact not fiction=-
The sky is not the limit....The Ground is.
If our legs bent backwards what would racing seats look like?
#4
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Posted 06 March 2005 - 04:22 AM
QUOTE(anitanium @ Mar 5 2005, 09:10 PM)
Got my oil changed today, and my mech said that i was leaking oil. The real main seal needs to be replaced ;(. He says right now it isn't too serious, but it might get worse, and i have noticed my oil level dropping levels at a time...
looks like a $$$ job (or around there). He's pretty sure its a RMS because he's worked on volvos forever.
So while i'm getting this fixed, any other things i should take care off? Flame Trap?
this sux
looks like a $$$ job (or around there). He's pretty sure its a RMS because he's worked on volvos forever.
So while i'm getting this fixed, any other things i should take care off? Flame Trap?
this sux
I hate that. I had to do it on my car last year. Mine wasn't leaking too bad when I had it done, but I obviously didn't want it to get worse. You don't want it to get too bad because oil will be everywhere under the car, and start to cover the rear of the car also. Not to mention the stain where ever you park.
They had to keep mine overnight, but they did give me a loaner car for free. Too bad it wasn't a Volvo, but some cheap rental car.
#5
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Posted 06 March 2005 - 04:22 AM
UncleBoost I love the girl in the pic
1996 Volvo 854 2.4L non-turbo 212,xxx miles Forsyth, Ga.
Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
302mm brakes, IPD sway bars front and rear, QBM end links, MSD 6A ignition w/Blaster 2 coil pack, Jet Chip, Bilstein Shocks/Struts, R Springs. Hell I can't remember everything else.
Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
302mm brakes, IPD sway bars front and rear, QBM end links, MSD 6A ignition w/Blaster 2 coil pack, Jet Chip, Bilstein Shocks/Struts, R Springs. Hell I can't remember everything else.
#6
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Posted 06 March 2005 - 04:29 AM
QUOTE(UncleBoost @ Mar 5 2005, 09:20 PM)
Timing Belt, tensioner, water pump, CV Boots<--------Thats what my mechanic told me I needed when I went in for RMS. So I told him to hold on the pump, and boots but do the rest since I was @207k miles. Got my car back and it was still leaking oil all over the back glass (Wagon). turns out it was a $1.00 part, the O-ring for the Turbo Drain that was causing the Oil spray all over the back window...
So did I really need a RMS?...
So did I really need a RMS?...
I specifically checked the turbo drain line to see if it was leaking. Unfortunately, it wasn't and I knew it was the RMS.
Trans fluid change? Is it close to time? They will probably do it anyway when they pull the trans.
#7
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Posted 06 March 2005 - 04:31 AM
Thanks Merlin....I may have to remove it...too much attention may get me in trouble.
Thats Aunt Boost the 2nd half....she finds out I'm toast dude...for real!
I got Hooked on stuff @ x10.com. Don't go there. It will turn you into a pervert.
Thats Aunt Boost the 2nd half....she finds out I'm toast dude...for real!
I got Hooked on stuff @ x10.com. Don't go there. It will turn you into a pervert.
Edited by UncleBoost, 06 March 2005 - 04:33 AM.
1994 855T
Performance mods: None so far
Suspension mods: Not yet
Visual mods: Rear Wing, Blacked out tint in the Rear
-=Fact not fiction=-
The sky is not the limit....The Ground is.
If our legs bent backwards what would racing seats look like?
Performance mods: None so far
Suspension mods: Not yet
Visual mods: Rear Wing, Blacked out tint in the Rear
-=Fact not fiction=-
The sky is not the limit....The Ground is.
If our legs bent backwards what would racing seats look like?
#8 Guest_AlvinL_*
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Posted 06 March 2005 - 04:35 AM
Check your PCV system first. Any smoke out of dipstick tube? For a 95, if your flame trap and vacuum line is fine but your still getting smoke, you might want to consider replacing the whole PCV system. I did mine and I'm very pleased with the results. If you're considering, it's do-able with 3/8 ratchet set with extension and swivel to dismantle the intake manifold. Clean your egr, throttle body at the same time. Don't touch the injectors, just remove one end of the rubber fuel line. Dealer charges like 5 hours to do these. It took me that long my first time.
When doing the RMS, do the driveshaft seals at the same time. I had mine done at a Toronto area dealer for about 6 hrs labour plus parts.
Good luck!
When doing the RMS, do the driveshaft seals at the same time. I had mine done at a Toronto area dealer for about 6 hrs labour plus parts.
Good luck!
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Posted 06 March 2005 - 06:00 AM
so it might NOT be a RMS? 
well, my cars had no other major problems except this unexpected leak..
it burns a little oil, but either than that no problems..
well, my cars had no other major problems except this unexpected leak..
it burns a little oil, but either than that no problems..
#10 Guest_AlvinL_*
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Posted 06 March 2005 - 03:47 PM
No, not saying that. It could very well be but before you replace your RMS only to have it go again, check your PCV system first to see if its plugged or not working efficiently. If your PCV system is plugged, the new RMS will shortly blow out again. You want to rule out the PCV as a cause of your RMS going.
We've all read a lot about the PCV system in these cars. Rich's recommendation to look for smoke out of the dipsick tube is an excellent idea. When my RMS went, I noticed there was smoke so I thoroughly checked the PCV out. Vacuum seem fine, blew into the large tube and didn't seem plugged but there was still smoke out of the dipstick. So I went ahead and spent about $150 in parts and replaced everything, including the PCV box below the manifold. That box has like 3 openings. Smoke out of the dipstick is completely gone.
I then went to have the RMS fixed.
We've all read a lot about the PCV system in these cars. Rich's recommendation to look for smoke out of the dipsick tube is an excellent idea. When my RMS went, I noticed there was smoke so I thoroughly checked the PCV out. Vacuum seem fine, blew into the large tube and didn't seem plugged but there was still smoke out of the dipstick. So I went ahead and spent about $150 in parts and replaced everything, including the PCV box below the manifold. That box has like 3 openings. Smoke out of the dipstick is completely gone.
I then went to have the RMS fixed.
#11
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Posted 06 March 2005 - 03:51 PM
Hey y'all I dont have smoke out of the dipstick but with the engine hot/warm I do have a lot of smoke when I take my oil cap off. After reading about this I have started looking into what it takes to get the intake off so I can clean the hell out of it maybe gasket match it a little while I have it off and clean/polish it too 
who thinks smoke coming out of the oil cap is bad?
who thinks smoke coming out of the oil cap is bad?
1996 Volvo 854 2.4L non-turbo 212,xxx miles Forsyth, Ga.
Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
302mm brakes, IPD sway bars front and rear, QBM end links, MSD 6A ignition w/Blaster 2 coil pack, Jet Chip, Bilstein Shocks/Struts, R Springs. Hell I can't remember everything else.
Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
302mm brakes, IPD sway bars front and rear, QBM end links, MSD 6A ignition w/Blaster 2 coil pack, Jet Chip, Bilstein Shocks/Struts, R Springs. Hell I can't remember everything else.
#12
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Posted 06 March 2005 - 08:31 PM
QUOTE(merlin390 @ Mar 6 2005, 04:22 AM)
UncleBoost I love the girl in the pic
Yeah that looks nice!!
Uncleboost, can you PM me a link for the rest?
------------------------------------------------------1998 C70------------------------------------------------------
SpeedTuning 17PSI - MSD 6A - 3" Back - Sunglasses
SpeedTuning 17PSI - MSD 6A - 3" Back - Sunglasses
#13 Guest_AlvinL_*
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Posted 06 March 2005 - 11:28 PM
QUOTE(merlin390 @ Mar 6 2005, 03:51 PM)
Hey y'all I dont have smoke out of the dipstick but with the engine hot/warm I do have a lot of smoke when I take my oil cap off. After reading about this I have started looking into what it takes to get the intake off so I can clean the hell out of it maybe gasket match it a little while I have it off and clean/polish it too
who thinks smoke coming out of the oil cap is bad?
who thinks smoke coming out of the oil cap is bad?
Not good, I'd say. That PCV box under the manifold vents the crankcase as well as above the cylinder head.
#14
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Posted 06 March 2005 - 11:44 PM
kool, I am going to replace the RMS this coming weekend. and while i am at it I will pull the intake off, gasket match the runners, maybe some porting work. clean the heck out of the PCV system and install my catch can.
start friday after work and hope i am done before monday
start friday after work and hope i am done before monday
1996 Volvo 854 2.4L non-turbo 212,xxx miles Forsyth, Ga.
Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
302mm brakes, IPD sway bars front and rear, QBM end links, MSD 6A ignition w/Blaster 2 coil pack, Jet Chip, Bilstein Shocks/Struts, R Springs. Hell I can't remember everything else.
Works in progress - Conversion to turbo with a NA motor or 260hp no turbo. Say a prayer for me.
302mm brakes, IPD sway bars front and rear, QBM end links, MSD 6A ignition w/Blaster 2 coil pack, Jet Chip, Bilstein Shocks/Struts, R Springs. Hell I can't remember everything else.
#15
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Posted 07 March 2005 - 01:04 AM
alvin,
what year is your car + km ?
I'm planning to replace the pvc box on mine, which is driven mainly in town, as a preventive maint. against future rms blow out (crossing fingers here); just want to establish a timeline/km; its a na engine with 70K km only;
what year is your car + km ?
I'm planning to replace the pvc box on mine, which is driven mainly in town, as a preventive maint. against future rms blow out (crossing fingers here); just want to establish a timeline/km; its a na engine with 70K km only;
Edited by dlugi, 07 March 2005 - 01:07 AM.
'03 V70 NA
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Posted 07 March 2005 - 01:15 AM
Is there a way to check the pcv system (other than the smoke test) so that you don't replace it for nothing?
#17
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Posted 25 March 2005 - 04:46 AM
[quote=anitanium,Mar 5 2005, 08:10 PM]
Got my oil changed today, and my mech said that i was leaking oil. The real main seal needs to be replaced ;(. He says right now it isn't too serious, but it might get worse, and i have noticed my oil level dropping levels at a time...
looks like a $$$ job (or around there). He's pretty sure its a RMS because he's worked on volvos forever.
So while i'm getting this fixed, any other things i should take care off? Flame Trap?
this sux
Breather box
Got my oil changed today, and my mech said that i was leaking oil. The real main seal needs to be replaced ;(. He says right now it isn't too serious, but it might get worse, and i have noticed my oil level dropping levels at a time...
looks like a $$$ job (or around there). He's pretty sure its a RMS because he's worked on volvos forever.
So while i'm getting this fixed, any other things i should take care off? Flame Trap?
this sux
Breather box
GAYTARD
#18
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Posted 25 March 2005 - 05:31 AM
Hi Mike,
In addition to the previous advice given, suggest you try Auto-Rx and read up on the forums over at Auto-rx.com and Bobistheoilguy.com. Auto-Rx is claimed to help recondition the seals. It's only U$22 a bottle and worth a try before going for the $$$ replacement. Shipping is free (and fast) so I suggest you have it shipped to Pt. Roberts and pick it up yourself. Go to www.tsbshipping.com for more info.
Question to all - how can I tell if I have an RMS leak? My garage floor has no sign of oil drops except a few ones right under the oil pan drain bolt. I've been using M1 synth since car was new and flushed tranny oil with M1 synth last year. I hope using synth helps prevent RMS leaks.
Thanks,
Geevs
In addition to the previous advice given, suggest you try Auto-Rx and read up on the forums over at Auto-rx.com and Bobistheoilguy.com. Auto-Rx is claimed to help recondition the seals. It's only U$22 a bottle and worth a try before going for the $$$ replacement. Shipping is free (and fast) so I suggest you have it shipped to Pt. Roberts and pick it up yourself. Go to www.tsbshipping.com for more info.
Question to all - how can I tell if I have an RMS leak? My garage floor has no sign of oil drops except a few ones right under the oil pan drain bolt. I've been using M1 synth since car was new and flushed tranny oil with M1 synth last year. I hope using synth helps prevent RMS leaks.
Thanks,
Geevs
96 854R red/blk (Euro-spec 5-speed)
Conti DWS | Neptunes | H&R springs & spacers | Koni Yellows | OMP Brace | QBM Endlinks | Samco & HTS hoses | EST short shifter & cat-back | OBX DP | K&N filter | Momo Anatomico | Hella E-codes | Brass & Delrin Bushings
96 855T silver/blk (Can-spec Auto)
R bumper & sway bars | Exclaim UHP | Thors | Kilen springs | H&R spacers | Monroe Sensa-tracs | OMP Brace | QBM Endlinks | Samco & HTS hoses | K&N filter
Conti DWS | Neptunes | H&R springs & spacers | Koni Yellows | OMP Brace | QBM Endlinks | Samco & HTS hoses | EST short shifter & cat-back | OBX DP | K&N filter | Momo Anatomico | Hella E-codes | Brass & Delrin Bushings
96 855T silver/blk (Can-spec Auto)
R bumper & sway bars | Exclaim UHP | Thors | Kilen springs | H&R spacers | Monroe Sensa-tracs | OMP Brace | QBM Endlinks | Samco & HTS hoses | K&N filter
#19
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Posted 25 March 2005 - 04:41 PM
monkey up your tranny somehow...or just do a manual swap anyways, and the RMS at the same time. If you can find a reputable shop, with decent labor rates, it should cost about $1500-$2000 USD, and you can always sell your old tranny to try and recoup some of the costs. 
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