[Ivanfbi]

well, my dad does it, I am just as a helper, but usually he changes everything that can be changed first time, especially seals...

[pete0r]

Prices are different all over the country, and around town as well.  Depends on the hourly labor rate, and what work is going to be done.  For instance, when I do the rear main seal I also replace the torque converter seal.  I put new sub frame bolts in, new flex plate bolts.  Some shops just yank the trans replace the seals and re-use the old bolts.  Re-using angle torqued bolts is not a good idea.

I would like to know what mechanic charges $30 to $40 an hour!.

Bay13 you should jump ship and move to Oregon, we need moe Volvo repair men here.

However, I love my mechanic.....he rocks and is reasonably priced

nono, he needs to move north a bit

This post has been edited by pete0r: 18 March 2005 - 04:25 AM

[Ivanfbi]

north from oregon, means in seattle?

[pete0r]

north from oregon, means in seattle?

says bay13 is from VA

[Ivanfbi]

its not a problem, we need more members in NW, because we don't have enough

[Bay13]

I would like to know what mechanic charges $30 to $40 an hour!.

Usually dealer techs that are doing side work. Anyone who is making a living fixing cars today is not charging 30-40.

[Plan_B]

I would like to know what mechanic charges $30 to $40 an hour!.

Usually dealer techs that are doing side work. Anyone who is making a living fixing cars today is not charging 30-40.

Seattle sucks, Portland is better

My mechanic was a dealership tech for many years and finally opened his own shop, he and most others charge $75.00 an hour.

[Plan_B]

I would like to know what mechanic charges $30 to $40 an hour!.

Usually dealer techs that are doing side work. Anyone who is making a living fixing cars today is not charging 30-40.

Bay13, god its like midnight over there, aren't you tired......crap, I go to bed like at 9pm, pacific time! ...in fact it's almost time to hit the hay!......

[Bay13]

You are right, it's time to sign off. I have a dash to take out tomorrow and new stand offs to fabricate so the thing can be secured.

[Plan_B]

You are right, it's time to sign off.  I have a dash to take out tomorrow and new stand offs to fabricate so the thing can be secured.

Peace out!

[a_place_08]

yes let me tell you something good freind.
i am aprox. at 183 THOUSAND miles, and have had oil changes/ regular maintanence and when i took it into the local dealer today a car of the milage has never been seen so clean by any ANY of the techs. its a 1995 850 turbo. i mean comon it only needs a new o2 sensor in the front and its the 30,000 mile check up. amazing i know, but worth the money if you can find a clean well maintained one.

[James A Sousa]

Most decisions boil down to Risk (or cost) vs. Benefit.

Your father is correct in his thinking, but like most brick owners, I think that the benefit of having a turbo is more than worth the cost.

Over 100,000 miles of our Volvo driving has been in turbo models, and we have had NO turbo related repairs except for an intake hose with a hole in it. One of our NA 740s had a similar repair.

I offer you a few thoughts -

There are a lot of nice used cars on the market.

You should not overextend your finances on any car if you can help it.

If you can get your father on board with the car you buy, you are more likely to get his help if you need it.

A fine, expensive car is made from fine, expensive parts and this shows up in some of your repair bills.

Nine years ago, I brought our first Volvo to the indie mechanic that I had used for years. When he saw our brick, he said "No more Chevies for the Sousas" He was correct!

Good luck