8 replies to this topic

[AJU]

So today I'm going home from work and the car stalls, basically typical fuel starvation symptoms, and it won't restart. I managed to coast downhill and off of the highway. The fuel pump fuse was blown. I replaced the fuse with another 15A fuse and started the car. It ran for about 30 seconds but got rougher and rougher until the fuse blew again and it died. After looking for some source of a short and speaking with a nearby old school mechanic I decided to try a heavier fuse. I popped a 25A fuse in there and I was able to drive a couple miles without it blowing. The pump has always hummed a decent amount, but never really whined or sounded like the bearings were grinding. After restarting the car this time the pump sounded a little gruffer than usual, but seemed to steadily do its job with the 25A fuse.

Any chance the fuel pump is not toast? Anything else I should look for? Any chance the relay is the cause of the fuses blowing?

Any thoughts?

[MrWinkey]

That's odd never really seen that with a fuel pump but I bet it's the pump..I would replace both the pump and relay

[jens94850]

So today I'm going home from work and the car stalls, basically typical fuel starvation symptoms, and it won't restart.  I managed to coast downhill and off of the highway.  The fuel pump fuse was blown.  I replaced the fuse with another 15A fuse and started the car.  It ran for about 30 seconds but got rougher and rougher until the fuse blew again and it died.  After looking for some source of a short and speaking with a nearby old school mechanic I decided to try a heavier fuse.  I popped a 25A fuse in there and I was able to drive a couple miles without it blowing.  The pump has always hummed a decent amount, but never really whined or sounded like the bearings were grinding.  After restarting the car this time the pump sounded a little gruffer than usual, but seemed to steadily do its job with the 25A fuse.

Any chance the fuel pump is not toast?  Anything else I should look for?  Any chance the relay is the cause of the fuses blowing?

Any thoughts?

Unless you have the beginnings of a short, your pump is toast. As with any motor, as it begins to wear out, it'll draw more and more current. Relay (though not a bad idea to repalce) is probably fine.

[Bay13]

Check in the back where the connectors are and see if your connector for the fuel pump has melted connections. Just something else to consider.

[AJU]

Check in the back where the connectors are and see if your connector for the fuel pump has melted connections.  Just something else to consider.

Where exactly should I look? I removed the access plate (I have a wagon) and didn't see anything out of the norm (except some old sunflower seed shells - I think some mice were living in the car before I got it!) but I didn't really see any connectors, just a whole bunch of wires.

If there is a short though, wouldn't the heavier fuse blow just as easily?

Oh yeah, I remember seeing a write up with pictures on changing the pump, but couldn't find it in the maintenance section. Could you point me in the right direction?

FCP sells an insert and a complete pump for about $100 more. How much more work is involved replacing the insert vs. the whole assembly?

Thanks for all your tips.

[Bay13]

Follow the wires over to the right side of the car, they are hidden behind the gray covering. The pink wire is for the fuel pump.

[jens94850]

FCP sells an insert and a complete pump for about $100 more.  How much more work is involved replacing the insert vs. the whole assembly?

Just replacing the pump unit itself isn't too much more work (like 15 minutes at most.) However, you have to be really careful to get the wires connected in the right order (ie not reversed or the pump will go backward) and to make sure everything is clamped together, or you'll end up doing the job twice.

[AJU]

Just replacing the pump unit itself isn't too much more work (like 15 minutes at most.) 

Yeah OK - I did the job tonight and while theoretically a simple procedure, when the fumes get to your head even the simplest of jobs gets fouled up. It took me the better part of 3 hours start to finish. The hard parts were getting the plastic nut off (ended up using a hammer and a screwdriver) and crimping the quick connects properly (I destroyed the ones that came with the pump from crimping and then taking them off and trying to use them again - ended up going to Radio Shack and getting new ones).

I replaced the fuse with the correct 15A fuse and turned the key to the on position and I thought something was wrong. There was no growl, but rather a quiet hum. I guess my pump was worse off than I thought. Car started and ran without blowing the fuse. Guess it's good to go until next time.

Thanks all for your input.

[jens94850]

Just replacing the pump unit itself isn't too much more work (like 15 minutes at most.) 

when the fumes get to your head even the simplest of jobs gets fouled up. It took me the better part of 3 hours start to finish. The hard parts were getting the plastic nut off (ended up using a hammer and a screwdriver) and crimping the quick connects properly

Glad you made it through.
The plastic nut can be a pain (I always have used a hammer and a 3/8 extension for fear that I'll hit a screwdriver through the plastic.
Getting the nut tight enough can also be a problem. If you notice gas fumes in the next week or so---you know what to tighten. Congrats.