so last night i discovered how hard it is to replace vacuum lines on a moderately worn set of hoses or dirty engine. 1st, remember this, if you order svt lines from hosetechniques.com the universal starter kit will be more than enough to do the job.
in some cases such as your windsheild washer fluid lines (4 mm diameter) you need to zip tie your new hose to the end of the old hose when feeding it through the passanger side, front panel the oem ones go through. use all the same securing points the factory lines use. take out the two way splitter and attach the bottom of the new hose to that. the two lines coming from that point to the washers can be replaced also but watch out for for fluids coming out of the old hose. you do not need to zip tie these lines into place but they are a good way to start your hoses because they are simple unclamped hoses. never precut, you will find stuff gets in the way when you try that. so next remember this, the 8 mm line from your coolant to engine will spew due to presure so take off the coolant resovoir side of the hose and put that metal clamp around the end of your new hose. when you yank off the other end of the hose be ready comes coolant will spew up about and inch and then drop onto engine components/ floor! connect the already clamped end of the new hose on and pull of the clamp from the old hose and place it on the coolant resovoir tank with the other end of your new hose. that job is done. now remove your throttle body cover and you will see a tree with 5 ports and some harder lines coming out of those ports with vacuum elbows, ignore that and look below the the two large hoses, the top one is 8mm, and the bottom is 4 mm. pull off the top hose and save the clamps but leave it off. you only need to pull off the first section of that hose. then reach to the port underneath with the 4mm hose and use some pliers to get off the clamp and pull the wire out. beware though many of the next 4 mm and 6 mm diameter hoses will break at the end of the port and you must use a razor blade to cut through the middle and peel it off around the sides. follow that line back to the turbo on the right drivers side of the engine compartment and detach it from the turbo.pull out that hose you do not need those clamps they dont fit the 4 mm hoses. clamp the new hose on after you have cut it comparing it to the old hose and use the zip ties around the point were the hose is on the port. try to keep these hoses strait so they do not pinch or expand. next on your manufactory airbox their will be a set of three hoses clamped onto a little module on the engine side of the airbox. remove the screws and pull the module up. to do the bottom hose you will need to remove your airbox-turbo tubing because that line disappears under the turbo heat sheild. these lines were all clamped and brittle so beware of removing them from the nipples or ports they are on. follow the top hose to the wastegate actuator and remove it replacing it and all these hoses with 6 mm tubing. the middle nipple will go to the oem airbox-turbo line and will go right after the mass air flow sensor. zip tie each of these to their nipple replace all the components needed to take off and carry on. http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?s...ilicone++vacuum for each hose with picute!!!
Vacuum Lines
Started by a_place_08, Mar 25 2005 03:24 PM
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#1
Posted 25 March 2005 - 03:24 PM
1995 volvo 850 turbo
--vacuum lines redone--hosetechniques.com universal kit
--open air filter intake--k&n flowcharger filter-custom hosing to ram air port
--optima red top remounted at 90degrees from origional position
--dist/rotor/spark plug& wires --ipd.com kit and bosch perfo. wires

PAC NW REPRESENTIN!!!!
Adam place
Blaine, WA 98230
--vacuum lines redone--hosetechniques.com universal kit
--open air filter intake--k&n flowcharger filter-custom hosing to ram air port
--optima red top remounted at 90degrees from origional position
--dist/rotor/spark plug& wires --ipd.com kit and bosch perfo. wires

PAC NW REPRESENTIN!!!!
Adam place
Blaine, WA 98230
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