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Howto: Take Off Top Dash Cover

#1 User is offline   Serge 

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Posted 11 April 2005 - 08:13 PM

In my quest to make the dash quiter, I decided to take the cover off and put anti-squeak tape and cloth tape on any edge that moves. The problems are the result of using the Bay13 instructions to pull out the gauge cluster. Pulling on half of it results in the dash cover not properly fitting back into place. This is a fix that has made my ride a lot quiter.

Step 1: Remove dash speaker grilles. Pull out plastic clips that hold the speakers in and unhook them.

Step 2: Remove the plastic cover on the sides of the dash (right next to the side-mirrors). Pull the circular cap off, unscrew the screw behind it and also the one that goes ino the a-pillar.

Step 3: Under the passenger side speaker grille, there will be a screw. Unscrew it.

Step 4: Remove the three vents around the gauge cluster (only the top ones). There will be screws right above them. Also unscrew the two screws right above the gauge cluster.

Step 5: Take out the glove box. You have to take a small flat head screw driver and put it into the slot next to the arches that hold the glove box to the dash. Make sure they don't fall into the dash.


Step 6: It is recommended to disconnect the negative battery lead before disconnecting any airbags in the car (which is what I did), but you can get away with just not having the car on. Pull the connector straight down, it should unclip.


Step 7: With the glove box out, unbolt the four 10mm bolts holding the airbag in. There are also two more small torx screws right under the cover (at the edge). While you're at it, pull out the heater vent. Just give it a good tug and it'll pop out.



Step 8: With someone helping you on the other side, carefully begin to pry the dash out. Every screw should be out already, so there won't be anything hold it in.


Serge - 95 850 T5
• Koni Yellows • ST ECU @ 17psi • Orange LED Dash • Custom Dimmer • LED Brake Lights • TSX HID •Projector Retro • R-bumper • Carpc • Hella Raintronic •
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#2 User is offline   Serge 

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Posted 11 April 2005 - 08:13 PM

Now that the dash is out, time to stop it from squeaking! I used some wiring harness tape (it's a cloth tape) and put it on the edges that go towards the windshield. As well as any parts that come in contact with the front of the dash.






Carefully slide the dash back in and bolt everything down. Make sure to reconnect the airbag. Finally reconnect the battery lead.

Viola!
Serge - 95 850 T5
• Koni Yellows • ST ECU @ 17psi • Orange LED Dash • Custom Dimmer • LED Brake Lights • TSX HID •Projector Retro • R-bumper • Carpc • Hella Raintronic •
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#3 User is offline   theunderlord 

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Posted 11 April 2005 - 08:16 PM

great work Serge. How'd it turn out?
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#4 User is offline   550 

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Posted 11 April 2005 - 08:16 PM

I would marry you if you were a girl. Anyways... nice write up. I have to do this as well, eventually just no time now.
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#5 User is offline   Serge 

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Posted 11 April 2005 - 08:18 PM

QUOTE('98S70R @ Apr 11 2005, 02:16 PM)
great work Serge.  How'd it turn out?
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Thanks Kev! A heck of a lot better than it was before! There are still some rough spots to work out, but I'll take care of those later. Atleast now I know how to get the dash out!
Serge - 95 850 T5
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#6 User is offline   theunderlord 

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Posted 11 April 2005 - 08:19 PM

QUOTE(LiquidKernel @ Apr 11 2005, 01:18 PM)
Thanks Kev! A heck of a lot better than it was before! There are still some rough spots to work out, but I'll take care of those later.  Atleast now I know how to get the dash out!
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Nice! I bet it's pretty much the same for 70 series. How long did all that take ya?
07.5. 3500HD SRW. LMM. LT. CCLB. 4x4. Pioneer DVD. JL Audio. Rockford Fosgate. Subthump. Katzskin Interior. Fab Fours Front Bumper. Reese Class V. 6K HID. 20% Tint. Bushwacker. Smoked Recon LED Taillights & Third Brake Light. US Speedo Gauge Overlay. Colormatched Vent Visors/AVS Bug Deflector/Door Handles. Black NFab Bars. LineX. 6" Tuff Country Lift. 325/60-20 Nitto Terra Grapplers. KMC XD Black Rockstars. 20"x10" -24 offset 4.56" BS. PCV Re-Route. Banks Boost Tube. AFE PG7. Edge CTS Race. 4" Silverline Downpipe Back Exhaust. 5" MBRP Tip.
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#7 User is offline   550 

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Posted 11 April 2005 - 08:20 PM

Kev, yeah it is basically the same. Almost 100% needed if you want to get the cluster out. I actually think the 70 dash is easier to get out as well.
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#8 User is offline   beachnut 

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Posted 11 April 2005 - 08:21 PM

Good write-up man! Can I have your black dash pad now ? laugh.gif
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#9 User is offline   Serge 

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Posted 11 April 2005 - 08:21 PM

QUOTE('98S70R @ Apr 11 2005, 02:19 PM)
Nice! I bet it's pretty much the same for 70 series.  How long did all that take ya?
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I think it's the same, I'll check VADIS in a minute. I am also thinking of putting some peel-n-seal under the cover... but it'll really smell like asphalt when I crank up the heat, so I don't want to do that smile.gif

I think it took no longer than an hour and a half, from start to finish. I really didn't know how the dash was supposed to come out, so I took my time, but now that I know how to do it I should be able to get it done sooner.
Serge - 95 850 T5
• Koni Yellows • ST ECU @ 17psi • Orange LED Dash • Custom Dimmer • LED Brake Lights • TSX HID •Projector Retro • R-bumper • Carpc • Hella Raintronic •
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#10 User is offline   Serge 

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Posted 11 April 2005 - 08:24 PM

QUOTE(beachnut @ Apr 11 2005, 02:21 PM)
Good write-up man! Can I have your black dash pad now ?  laugh.gif
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Thanks. I like my black dash cover tongue.gif
Serge - 95 850 T5
• Koni Yellows • ST ECU @ 17psi • Orange LED Dash • Custom Dimmer • LED Brake Lights • TSX HID •Projector Retro • R-bumper • Carpc • Hella Raintronic •
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Posted 11 April 2005 - 09:23 PM

Thanks bud, I was planning on doing the same thing when I do my apillar gauges, homelink mirror and hardwire my v1. I figure it'd be just easiest to pull the top of the dash to do all the wiring.

Doug
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#12 User is offline   tomtbone 

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Posted 11 April 2005 - 10:41 PM

Do you guys know if you can drive the car like this, with the air bags out and disconnected? I eventually want to take the whole dash apart and get rid of the creaks and I think it will take a long time.
97 855R - too many mods to mention ;)
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#13 User is offline   theunderlord 

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Posted 11 April 2005 - 10:42 PM

QUOTE(tomtbone @ Apr 11 2005, 03:41 PM)
Do you guys know if you can drive the car like this, with the air bags out and disconnected?  I eventually want to take the whole dash apart and get rid of the creaks and I think it will take a long time.
View Post



sure you can, it's not very safe.. Serge said it only took him about an hour or so...
07.5. 3500HD SRW. LMM. LT. CCLB. 4x4. Pioneer DVD. JL Audio. Rockford Fosgate. Subthump. Katzskin Interior. Fab Fours Front Bumper. Reese Class V. 6K HID. 20% Tint. Bushwacker. Smoked Recon LED Taillights & Third Brake Light. US Speedo Gauge Overlay. Colormatched Vent Visors/AVS Bug Deflector/Door Handles. Black NFab Bars. LineX. 6" Tuff Country Lift. 325/60-20 Nitto Terra Grapplers. KMC XD Black Rockstars. 20"x10" -24 offset 4.56" BS. PCV Re-Route. Banks Boost Tube. AFE PG7. Edge CTS Race. 4" Silverline Downpipe Back Exhaust. 5" MBRP Tip.
To Install/On Order: Banks Intercooler, AirDogII DF-165, Fab Fours Rear Bumper, Diamond Eye Downpipe.
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#14 User is offline   orange850t 

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Posted 11 April 2005 - 10:57 PM

QUOTE(tomtbone @ Apr 11 2005, 06:41 PM)
Do you guys know if you can drive the car like this, with the air bags out and disconnected?  I eventually want to take the whole dash apart and get rid of the creaks and I think it will take a long time.
View Post


I think the real answer is that the srs system will trip a cel that can only be dealer cleared.......(if you leave the bag unhooked) but someone needs to answer that definitively. Same question for the sips seat.
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#15 User is offline   tomtbone 

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Posted 11 April 2005 - 11:54 PM

QUOTE('98S70R @ Apr 11 2005, 05:42 PM)
sure you can, it's not very safe..  Serge said it only took him about an hour or so...
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I am talking about taking the wole dash apart not just the cover. I have creeks in the actual dash.

Tbone
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#16 User is offline   Serge 

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Posted 12 April 2005 - 12:11 AM

QUOTE(tomtbone @ Apr 11 2005, 05:54 PM)
I am talking about taking the wole dash apart not just the cover.  I have creeks in the actual dash.

Tbone
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That's a big project. I suggest just finding the trouble spots and using epoxy to glue the heck out of them so they don't move. That's my plan smile.gif
Serge - 95 850 T5
• Koni Yellows • ST ECU @ 17psi • Orange LED Dash • Custom Dimmer • LED Brake Lights • TSX HID •Projector Retro • R-bumper • Carpc • Hella Raintronic •
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#17 User is offline   tomtbone 

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Posted 12 April 2005 - 12:32 AM

QUOTE(LiquidKernel @ Apr 11 2005, 07:11 PM)
That's a big project.  I suggest just finding the trouble spots and using epoxy to glue the heck out of them so they don't move.  That's my plan smile.gif
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I am getting a lot of noise in the center..by the vents and ACC
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#18 User is offline   Serge 

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Posted 12 April 2005 - 12:34 AM

QUOTE(tomtbone @ Apr 11 2005, 06:32 PM)
I am getting a lot of noise in the center..by the vents and ACC
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Ditto. I think those can be cured by epoxying the seams and whatnot.
Serge - 95 850 T5
• Koni Yellows • ST ECU @ 17psi • Orange LED Dash • Custom Dimmer • LED Brake Lights • TSX HID •Projector Retro • R-bumper • Carpc • Hella Raintronic •
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#19 User is offline   steve s 

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Posted 12 April 2005 - 12:44 AM

cool...gj!

taken the dash apart on the left side a bit, but i could never figure out which wires/harness for the airbag i had to disconnect in behind the glove box.

now, i need to replace the passenger airbag cover, it's all peeled and crap.

thanx!
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#20 User is offline   drPheta 

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Posted 12 April 2005 - 02:12 AM

Wow, that's an awesome write up. I wanted to know this so I could replace that pesky airbag cover one day.

Hmmm, I wonder how much a CF dash would cost? Florian?
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