[steve s]

1998: s/v70, 2.4L normally aspirated engine (168 hp, 162 lb-ft)
----- s/v70 glt, v70 xc, v70 awd, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
----- s/v70 t-5, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 243 lb-ft, bigger turbo)
----- v70 R awd, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 228 lb-ft, s70r not in u.s.; euro-spec R manuals had a mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-18T)
----- *factory introduced option ohlins 8-way adjustable shocks with remote resevior, $1600
----- c70 coupe, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 243 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
1999: s/v70, same as 1998
----- s/v70 glt, s/v70 awd, v70 xc, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
----- s/v70 t-5, same as 1998
----- v70 R awd, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-18T (247 hp, 243 lb-ft)
----- c70 coupe, lpt, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
----- c70 coupe, hpt, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 243 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
2000: s/v70, 2.4L n/a engine (168hp, torque up from 162 to 170 lb-ft)
----- s/v70 glt, s/v70 awd, v70 xc, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
----- s70 t-5, same as 1998 (no v70 t5 for model year 2000)
----- v70 R awd, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-19T (261 hp, 258 lb-ft)
----- c70 coupe, lpt, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
----- c70 coupe, hpt, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 243 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, lpt, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, hpt, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 243 lb-ft)
2001: c70 coupe, hpt, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 243 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, lpt, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, hpt, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 243 lb-ft)
2002: c70 coupe, hpt, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 244 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, lpt, 2.4L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-13G (190 hp, 199 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, hpt, 2.3L inline-5, mitsubishi turbocharger TD04HL-16T (236 hp, 243 lb-ft)
2003, 2004, 2005: c70 convertible, lpt, 2.4L inline-5, ? turbocharger ??????-??? (197 hp, 210 lb-ft)
----- c70 convertible, hpt, 2.3L inline-5, ? turbocharger ??????-??? (242 hp, 243 lb-ft)

[steve s]

1993 854 20 mm front, 19.5 rear
1994 854 20 mm front, 19.5 rear
---- optional sports package 21 mm front, 20 mm rear, extra firm shock absorbers
1994 855 20 mm front, none rear
---- optional sports package 21 mm front, 20 mm rear, novimat shock absorbers
1995 854 20 mm front, 19.5 rear
---- optional sports package 21 mm front, 20 mm rear, extra firm shock absorbers
1995 854 t5-r 21 mm front, 20 mm rear
1995 855 20 mm front, none rear
---- optional sports package 21 mm front, 20.8 mm rear, extra firm shock absorbers
1995 855 t5-r 21 mm front, 20.8 mm rear
1996 854 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear
---- optional sports package 21 mm front, 20 mm rear, extra firm shock absorbers
1996 854 r 21 mm front, 20 mm rear
1996 855 20 mm front, none rear
1996 855 r 21 mm front, 20.8 mm rear
1997 850 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear (including r)

update from VADIS:
front sway bar part #s:
9173982 O.Dia 20 mm (early-1996 marked X, 1997 marked 1)
9173983 O.Dia 21 mm (early-1996 marked Y, 1997 marked 2)
9151441 O.Dia 21.5 mm (marked Z)
9173471 O.Dia 21.5 mm (marked A)
somewhere along the line of 850, there were 21.5mm front sway bars.
rear sway bar part #s, don't have diameter:
9191459 (marked M)
9191461 (marked P)
9191462 (marked N)
9191494 (marked V)

1998 s70 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear
---- option on all models: 21 mm front, 20 mm rear, extra firm shock absorbers
1998 v70 fwd 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear
1998 v70 awd 20 mm front, none? mm rear
1998 c70 20 mm front, 20 mm rear
1999 s70 fwd 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear
1999 s70 awd 20 mm front, none? rear
1999 v70 fwd 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear
1999 v70 awd 20 mm front, none? rear
1999 c70 20 mm front, 20 mm rear
2000 s70 fwd 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear
2000 s70 awd 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear
2000 v70 fwd 20 mm front, 19.5 mm rear
2000 v70 awd 20 mm front, none? rear
2000 c70 20 mm front, 20 mm rear
2001 c70 20 mm front, 20 mm rear
2002 c70 coupe 23.5 mm front, 21 mm rear
2002 c70 convertible 20 mm front, 20 mm rear
2003 c70 convertible 20 mm front, 20 mm rear

update from VADIS 8/2005:
front sway bar part #s:
9173982 O.Dia 20 mm (marked red)
9173983 O.Dia 21 mm (marked yellow)
9173471 O.Dia 21.5 mm (marked yellow/blue)
rear sway bar part #s, don't have diameter:
9191459 (marked green)
9191461 (marked yellow)
9191462 (marked blue)
9191494 (marked black)

This post has been edited by steve s: 25 August 2005 - 10:24 AM

[erikbergum]

Long ago (before the VS crashes) the part number for the 302mm (11-7/8") brake conversion bracket was listed. I dug through my list of receipts and found the part number for you guys.


Volvo P/N: 8602456-9

List Price: $86.00 each, its listed by Volvo as a "Brace"


Have fun and stop faster.

[steve s]

just something i put together earlier.. my list

[steve s]

thread for my list was closed...so here's some changes

Bilstein HD Part Numbers for 850

front strut (both same spec for rebound/compression)
V36-4015: 91-93, can be modified to work with 94+, specifically abs brake line mounting points different.
VN3-4358: 94-97
compression/rebound
2925N/845N

rear shock
B36-1640
compression/rebound
1530N/770N

[steve s]

oem brakes

front caliper: ate single sliding
rear caliper: ate opposing double fixed

front pad: textar, 32f-1010f working temp, 0.40 coeff of friction
rear pad: roulund, 32f-1010f working temp, 0.38 coeff of friction

front rotor: 280mm (some are 302mm)
rear rotor: 295mm

[steve s]

some part numbers..

850 Wagon, V70 94-00
Ohlin 8-way adjustable shock absorbers. excludes AWD
Front: 9204201
Rear: 9204202
sedan i think may have different numbers listed
(gdogg or larry can probably give u awd numbers)

Volvo oem strut tower bar
9204176

Wagon Roof Spoiler
9184639 (+"347 98"), eurostyle roof spoiler with lights
9134941 without lights.

This post has been edited by steve s: 21 October 2004 - 10:37 AM

[volflo]

model year, engine number, capacity
CLICK

[JESSEXC]

By Johann

The projected numbers are for your own good to see how your car develops over time.
Just to bad you never arranged a baseline of your car before the changes. It would have been nice to monitor the progress.
Which dyno totally depends on the system you will be using and how to translate the numbers.
My Volvo's have always been dyno'd at RICA in the Netherlands on a MAHA chassis dyno.
This system can measure the performance of the car by creating a rolling resistance and in a way emulating road situations. This is a so called static dyno system.
There are several ways of testing the car this way. One is to search for maximum output under load at a fixed RPM. The other way is to pick multiple RPM points in a row where the car needs to keep it's RPM point while the load is increasing until power collapses, nice for searching the detonation/ignition retarding limits. Every time the test is completed you move to the next RPM point. At the end the computer can produce a nice graph with the corresponding numbers.
Downside of this test is the enormous amount of heat going in to the car...
A nearly identical test is to increase RPM at the edge of the power delivery of the car. The dyno system can see where the power doesn't develop anymore so it increases RPM and starts measuring again. The amount of load can be set by the operator. This test is really killing for the engine. As a bystander you can see the RPM rise slowly but very smooth, like the car is accelerating in slowmotion. By reducing the load this process takes less time. At RICA they call this a so called quick run and it is a bit comparable to an inertia/dynamic type dyno system.
After performing the measuring of power the car needs to be rolled out until the wheels come to a stop and at this point the dyno can measure the energy going in to the drive train, the so called negative power, which represent the drivetrain losses. When finished the cumputer will calculate the numbers the results are plotted in corrected BHP, uncorrected BHP, torque and loss.
To use these numbers in the correct way you need to look at the corrected/uncorrected BHP numbers, not the wheel numbers because they will be lower compared to a inertia/dynamic dyno result. The cause for these differences can be found in the setup of both systems. Because of the load and the tires being "strangled" between two rollers instead of a big drum the overall resistance is higher.
RICA is using two fan's for different setups. One can produce 100 mph of air stream and the other near 50 mph.

When using a dynamic dyno system basically all you should do is to look at the wheel power results and nothing more. Unless the dyno system attempts to measure the negative power all calculations/conversions to engine power are useless, purely for indication.
Some people use loss figures of 12.5%, others 15% for manuals and between 18-25% for AT's...
Make sure you get the correct wheel numbers with a Dynojet type chassis dyno. Don't let the operator talk you in to a fictive loss numbers which needs to be entered in to the dyno computer.
Loss in non linear. You can't pick an X% loss and calculate through the rev band.
Loss at 1000 RPM is minimal, and AWD will show extreme losses at redline which will be as high 30-40%!. Power at the engine will develop while power at the wheels will drop after a certain point. Peak wheel HP is never in the same spot as peak engine HP.

For me the basic rule of thump, if the dyno is static and can measure losses use BHP.
If the dyno is dynamic use wheel HP which will always be relatively high.
Since US folks mostly use WHP as a base of power output your best choice would be to look for a Dynojet type or dynamic type dyno system and use these numbers to communicate on a forum like this. Using a static system and the results on a forum like this will only bring a lot of unfounded blah and confusion because a majority of the people simply do not understand how to look at these numbers. (No offence)
I did the same, I dyno'd my SwedeDemon at a Dynojet type dyno last year and asked for WHP only results. The results at the time were 284 WHP, the computer calculated 311 EHP, using the rule of thump guess losses the EHP numbers should be between 325 and 335... (Where did that 24 HP go?? )
In a way the results are only good for your car on your dyno system of choice on that time during the ambient circumstances of that day...


Static dyno is the way to go for you because you want your car to perform under constant load on the ring and with a static dyno you will come closest to the real situation. It is the only way to set the car up along the fine line of correct ignition timing. You don't want a high peaking HP dyno queen..


--------------------

This post has been edited by jesse850GLT: 27 October 2004 - 11:57 PM

[volflo]

HOW TO READ COMPRESSOR MAPS:

( sidenote:
got it from here.
couple of more basic knowledge about turbo theory, intercooler thoery, water injection theory. )

"Combustion requires two things: air and fuel. Well, technically, oxygen, fuel and a little heat, but the real chemistry behind combustion is not in the scope of this tutorial. For gasoline engines, the stoichiometric ratio of air to fuel is 14.7:1. For maximum power, a ratio closer to 12:1 is ideal. But no matter how much fuel you feed an engine, if there isn't sufficient air, you cannot increase the power. Of course, the converse is also true - if you have more air, you also need more fuel.

All engines have a fixed volume which can be occupied by air and fuel - this is what we measure when we speak of the size of an engine in CID (cubic inch displacement) or Liters. Now, the effective displacement of a given engine can change based on several factors, including cam duration, engine speed, exhaust flow, etc. This is why changing these things can create more power - by allowing more air (and thus, more fuel) into the engine per revolution. The percentage of the engine which is able to be filled with combustibles is referred to as volumetric efficiency (VE). Most modern, stock engines have a volumetric efficiency between 75-90%. The goal of most engine modifications is to increase this number.

Turbocharging an engine, on the other hand, affords us an opportunity to increase the amount of air in an engine without these expensive modifications. Turbochargers (and superchargers) force air into an engine, and they do this by compressing the air. That means, per unit volume, there is more air. How can this be? Because PV = nRT. If you hold V and T constant (R is already constant), as you increase P, so must n (or the number of air molecules) increase. But, I promised this wouldn't be a chemistry lesson.

Allow me to digress a little more and make a note about the cost effectiveness of turbocharging. All the other performance modifications I mentioned earlier are very costly - especially when you consider how little good they do. Consider this - if your engine has a volumetric efficiency of 80%, realistically, you're not going to get your volumetric efficiency above 100% (it's possible, but that would take a physics lesson to explain). So, we're talking about a 25% gain in power - and at an incredible expense. Turbocharge the same engine, and depending on its compression ratio, you can often get a 60% gain in power on pump gas. Add an intercooler and we're talking about doubling your power with very little sacrifice in reliability or driveability. A turbocharger is an incredible machine!

The Problem
So, let's get some piping and a turbo and slap it on. Check out TurboCalculator's list of free compressor maps (or get the real version and see the rest), and you'll see that the T100 flows the most air. Well, more air means more power, so lets put that monster on our engine. But our engine wouldn't be able produce enough air to turn the turbine. And even if it could, the relatively small amount of air our engine would need would cause the turbo to surge, which could damage it. So, you're telling me that I can't use just any turbocharger?

Yes, there is a science to turbocharging, and each turbocharger has an amount of air that it's able to supply efficiently and consistently. The problem is to select the correct turbo.

Turbo Selection
So, I've got to select the right turbo. The T3 I saw in Don's Turbo Emporium with the polished housing looked pretty nice, and it's not too big. Let's slow it down just a little and think this one through ok?

Every turbocharger compressor has what's called a compressor map. You probably already knew that or you wouldn't be here. The compressor map tells the efficiency at which a turbo operates given a pressure ratio and air flow requirements of the engine to which it is attached. This is where the islands come from. Each of these marks an equal compression efficiency. Anything inside a given island represents points of higher efficiency.

What on earth does it mean to compress air inefficiently? The less efficient the compression, the hotter the air. Compression Efficiency essentially tells what portion of the energy used is going to compression rather than heating up the air that's being compressed. The general rule of thumb is to keep efficiency above or near 65%, but this will obviously depend on the application.

So, why do we want cooler air? For two main reasons. First, hot air is more prone to pre-ignition (also known as pre-detonation) or auto-detonation, which can damage your engine. Second, colder air is denser. Let's look again at PV = nRT. If all is constant but n and T, as T decreases, n must increase. In other words, given a pressure (boost level) and volume (the size of your engine), as temperature increases, the number of air molecules decreases. Bottom line: hot air supports less power.

The process of turbo selection is plotting the air requirements of your engine on each compressor map to determine which turbo is best for your application. Beside the pain in the butt of plotting several points on every map for every engine configuration, proper turbo selection requires you to calculate the air requirements of your engine at each of the points of interest. Air requirements? How do we come up with those? With a lot of math.


The Math
For a detailed discussion of the math involved, have a look at this link.

More Problems
There are a few problems that anyone wishing to select a turbocharger for their engine is going to run into. First, turbo shop employees and owners either lack the time, knowledge, or experience to suggest the bet turbo for your application - especially if it's not a common project. Second, turbo charger compressor maps are very difficult to come by. For some reason, most manufacturers are very protective of most of the compressor maps. Fortunately, at TurboCalculator, we have been able to locate 84 public domain maps, many of which are very hard to come by. Feel free to have a look at the Garrett Maps which are available on our website. Last, it truly is a pain in the butt to do all of these calculations and plot the data by hand.

The Solution
TurboCalculator was born out of a desire to make the whole process much easier. TurboCalculator is an expert at selecting turbos. It's had plenty of practice and it knows the correct formulas. With TurboCalculator, you have 84 compressor maps at your disposal. And there's no reason to be timid about breaking free from the mold and working on a truly interesting project. TurboCalculator is useful for selecting turbos for nearly any application. We've had customers wanting to turbocharger rotary engines for aviation, bike engines, big block gas engines, smaller engines, diesels - you name it! So let TurboCalculator help you with your project.
"

This post has been edited by volflo: 14 December 2004 - 12:18 PM

[Ghost Shadow]

add this to your wheels info http://volvospeed.co...howtopic=19320# here is all the info you need to install wheels.

[theunderlord]

definitive answers to what injectors came on what, and how many CC's they are

[AnthonyR]

!!!FAQ under construction!!! please bear with me as I repost and re-create the table of contents

Realized I still had a copy of the FAQ I had started pre-crash (couple years back) so here it is, back in action

Between this and Jesse's FAQ I think we have a pretty good base going.

Any comments/corrections/additions please go here
http://volvospeed.co...showtopic=21018

How to move your battery sideways http://volvospeed.co...showtopic=41820

Table of Contents

How can I find the answer to almost every concievable question?
What is the function of a CBV/BOV?
How do I learn how basic car principles work?
What are the stock boost levels for the 850 T5 and R models?
What is the benefit of relocating the horns?
Should I get the Tornado Air?
Where can I view the different types of Volvo factory wheels?
How do I install a boost gauge?
How do I install my sub and amp?
How can I get RCA preouts from an SC811 or similar factory radio?
Commonly Used Acronyms
What do the different member groups mean?
Should I remove my MAF (Mass AirFlow) sensor screen?
How do I perform a compression test?
Usefull HP/Torque formulas and definitions.
What are the approx. boost and vac numbers on the factory boost gauge?
Nice Upgrades between $20-$350
Vendors

This post has been edited by jesse850GLT: 05 February 2006 - 06:58 PM

[AnthonyR]

How can I find the answer to almost every concievable question

USE THE SEARCH BUTTON!!!

Seriously, most questions can be answered by doing a simple search, so try it out before posting

[AnthonyR]

What is the function of a cbv/bov?

First, some definitions.

CBV - Compressor Bypass Valve. When the throttle is closed suddenly, the CBV vents the excess boost pressure back into the intake after the MAF (mass airflow sensor)

BOV - Blow-Off Valve. When the throttle is closed suddenly, the BOV vents excess boost pressure into the atmosphere resulting in that familiar "whoosh" sound.

These devices prevent what is known as a "compressor surge" which would happen if the throttle plate was closed and the pressure had no where to go, but back into the turbo, causing it to slow rapidly.

[AnthonyR]

How do I learn how basic car principles work?

Go to HowStuffWorks.com automotive section and learn in detail how turbos, automatic/manual transmissions, camshafts, etc work.

This post has been edited by AnthonyR: 19 April 2005 - 06:59 PM

[AnthonyR]

What are the stock boost levels for the 850 T5 and R models

Stock boost for an 850 T5 is 9.6psi or approximatly 2/3 bar.
Stock boost for an 850R is 10.6psi or approximatly 3/4 bar.

These are approximate figures, but depending on atmospheric conditions (humidity, ambient temp, altitude, etc) they may be lower or higher. And due to how the BCS (Boost Control Selenoid) works also, which is explained here.

[AnthonyR]

What is the benefit of relocating the horns?

Performance gain is very minimal (if any). It is mostly for looks, as it looks much better with nothing clinging to the intercooler. In theory it should help more air flow past the intercooler, but the gains are still negligable.

As for where to mount them, there are a few options. A: there is an empty braket underneath wear the battery is all the way down under the car. Another option is mount it to the battery tray itself, although the horns will be harder to hear. And if you mount it to the bottom braket, make sure the horns are facing down so any water/snow/dirt/sand is able to escape freely and not get trapped in there and ruin the horns.

[AnthonyR]

Should I get the Tornado Air?

NO!!

They may have some use on older carburated cars, but they will only take power away on a fuel injected car.

This post has been edited by AnthonyR: 19 April 2005 - 07:04 PM

[AnthonyR]

Where can I view the different types of Volvo factory wheels?

Gallery Of Wheels

They have pictures, part numbers, sizes, etc for almost all Volvo factory alloy rims.

Note: Not as complete as it once was, but still a good resource non-the-less.

This post has been edited by '98S70R: 19 April 2005 - 07:35 PM