Volvospeed Forums: Pics Of Upper Engine Torque - Rear Bushing - Volvospeed Forums

Jump to content

Page 1 of 1

Pics Of Upper Engine Torque - Rear Bushing

#1 User is offline   NateB Icon

  • Level 1 Member
  • Pip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 475
  • Joined: 15-February 03

Posted 18 July 2005 - 03:10 AM

OK- Learned how to post pictures.

My original 10 year old part was
clearly shot.

This is for a 1995 Volvo 850 Turbo.

Replacement involved removing the windshield wiper arms and the cowl. The Aluminum body of the part is attaced by two 14MM bolts that can be reached once the cowl is removed. It's a fairly straightforward job - check yours, it may be shot as well. The Volvo part is #8631159 and cost about $32.


Here is a pic of my 850's worn upper engine mount rear bushing #8631159 ( kindly note the 2 bolts that face up- the 14 mm nuts that secure these bolt are accessable by removing the windshield wiper arms and plastic cowling)




Here's a pic of the new bushing # 8631159 installed( note the new aluminum part is shaped a bit differently from the original) Al note- at the firewall there is no access to the upward facing bolts - you must remove the cowl to get access to them:




And here's my engine bay:




PS - Thanks to all that assisted in getting me "on-board" as far as posting pics and sizing them correctly ! Think I am getting the hang of it.

This post has been edited by NateB: 20 July 2005 - 12:20 AM

NateB

1995 Volvo 850 T-5 Sedan
Houston, Tx.
Original Owner- 102,500 miles
Upsolute ECU (Adrenaline Racing)
Custom 2.5" Cat Back w/Magnaflow
SAMCO Turbo Hose Kit
Hosetechniques Silicone Vacuum Lines
Koni Sport Adjustable Struts /Bilstein HD Rear Shocks
Pretty Good Backyard Mechanic - Thanks To Rich and this Forum!
0

#2 User is offline   Mesoam Icon

  • Mr. Sarcastic Jackass
  • Icon
  • View blog
  • Group: Supporting Member
  • Posts: 13,955
  • Joined: 12-March 04
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:CT
  • Crew:CFL

Posted 18 July 2005 - 03:41 AM

unfortunately you didn't learn how to resize pics, laugh.gif
Tango Romeo Alpha Victor India Sierra - yes that is my name,
96 854 R, CLICK ME
The Jeep
Posted Image
0

#3 User is offline   NateB Icon

  • Level 1 Member
  • Pip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 475
  • Joined: 15-February 03

Posted 18 July 2005 - 03:43 AM

QUOTE(Mesoam @ Jul 17 2005, 09:41 PM)
unfortunately you didn't learn how to resize pics, laugh.gif
View Post



Yeah, they do shout out at you tongue.gif

That will be lesson # 2 for tomorrow.

At least the huge pics clearly show the worn bushing..


So- How do you re-size the pics? Hmm... maybe I'll re-set my camera to lower resolution like 600 by 800..Hey, at least I finally got the pics posted.

This post has been edited by NateB: 18 July 2005 - 04:15 AM

NateB

1995 Volvo 850 T-5 Sedan
Houston, Tx.
Original Owner- 102,500 miles
Upsolute ECU (Adrenaline Racing)
Custom 2.5" Cat Back w/Magnaflow
SAMCO Turbo Hose Kit
Hosetechniques Silicone Vacuum Lines
Koni Sport Adjustable Struts /Bilstein HD Rear Shocks
Pretty Good Backyard Mechanic - Thanks To Rich and this Forum!
0

#4 User is offline   deeruck Icon

  • Level 1 Member
  • Pip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 272
  • Joined: 24-April 03

Posted 18 July 2005 - 05:06 AM

QUOTE(NateB @ Jul 18 2005, 02:43 PM)
Yeah, they do shout out at you  tongue.gif

That will be lesson # 2 for tomorrow.

At least the huge pics clearly show the worn bushing..
So- How do you re-size the pics?  Hmm... maybe I'll re-set my camera to lower resolution like 600 by 800..Hey, at least I finally got the pics posted.
View Post


Open them in some image editing program, and look for something like resize the canvas or the image size or something. Happens because your super-dooper digital camera takes the images at a resolution that contains more pixes per inch than your screen shows. If you set your camera to 800x600, most people will still get full screen pictures. Better to take full resolution pictures then cut them down with an editing program.
1994 850 T-5 (Australian Version!)
0

#5 User is offline   NateB Icon

  • Level 1 Member
  • Pip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 475
  • Joined: 15-February 03

Posted 18 July 2005 - 06:12 AM

QUOTE(deeruck @ Jul 17 2005, 11:06 PM)
Open them in some image editing program, and look for something like resize the canvas or the image size or something.  Happens because your super-dooper digital camera takes the images at a resolution that contains more pixes per inch than your screen shows.  If you set your camera to 800x600, most people will still get full screen pictures.  Better to take full resolution pictures then cut them down with an editing program.
View Post



Thanks all on the help with the pics ! Check my original post- it's fixed!
NateB

1995 Volvo 850 T-5 Sedan
Houston, Tx.
Original Owner- 102,500 miles
Upsolute ECU (Adrenaline Racing)
Custom 2.5" Cat Back w/Magnaflow
SAMCO Turbo Hose Kit
Hosetechniques Silicone Vacuum Lines
Koni Sport Adjustable Struts /Bilstein HD Rear Shocks
Pretty Good Backyard Mechanic - Thanks To Rich and this Forum!
0

#6 Guest_#guest#_*

  • Group: Guests

Posted 18 July 2005 - 08:38 AM

Nice....has it resolved any vibrations??

By the way, does that original part say 'France'?? I thought these things were made in Sweden.

T
0

#7 Guest_Guest_*

  • Group: Guests

Posted 19 July 2005 - 12:57 AM

QUOTE(#guest# @ Jul 18 2005, 08:38 AM)
Nice....has it resolved any vibrations??

By the way, does that original part say 'France'??  I thought these things were made in Sweden.

T
View Post



Yepper - the original part does say FRANCE.

Kinda like a Mexican Ford I guess laugh.gif

The new bushing has helped some of the noise & vibration.
0

#8 User is offline   thelostartof Icon

  • Level 3 Member
  • Icon
  • Group: Vendor
  • Posts: 1,848
  • Joined: 28-March 04
  • Location:Apache Junction, AZ

Posted 19 July 2005 - 03:52 AM

i posted a thread about replacing this bushing a week or so ago .. just we made our own poly bushings ... total cost was like free since i had some extra sway bar bushings and spacers laying around


anyways you do NOT need to remove the cowel you just need to fit your hands in ther eso remove all the screws and its easy enough to do it.
Posted Image
0

#9 Guest_Guest_NateB_*_*

  • Group: Guests

Posted 19 July 2005 - 06:42 AM

QUOTE(thelostartof @ Jul 19 2005, 03:52 AM)
i posted a thread about replacing this bushing a week or so ago .. just we made our own poly bushings ... total cost was like free since i had some extra sway bar bushings and spacers laying around
anyways you do NOT need to remove the cowel you just need to fit your hands in ther eso remove all the screws and its easy enough to do it.
View Post



That's a negative- for the rear bushing you must certainly remove the plastic cowling. Ain't no way around it- trust me.

I believe you have the part confused with the more common bushing failure that is over the engine.
0

#10 User is offline   NateB Icon

  • Level 1 Member
  • Pip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 475
  • Joined: 15-February 03

Posted 19 July 2005 - 06:47 AM

QUOTE(Guest_NateB_* @ Jul 19 2005, 12:42 AM)
That's a negative- for the rear bushing you must certainly remove the plastic cowling. Ain't no way around it- trust me.

I believe you have the part confused with the more common bushing failure that is over the engine.
View Post


That was me- reconfiguring my PC and lost the sign-on.

Anyhow- on the forward torque mount bushing you are right, the cowl stays on.

Look closely at the pics - there is no way to get to the two 14mm nuts without pulling the cowl. Heck, you can't even see them without removing the cowl.
NateB

1995 Volvo 850 T-5 Sedan
Houston, Tx.
Original Owner- 102,500 miles
Upsolute ECU (Adrenaline Racing)
Custom 2.5" Cat Back w/Magnaflow
SAMCO Turbo Hose Kit
Hosetechniques Silicone Vacuum Lines
Koni Sport Adjustable Struts /Bilstein HD Rear Shocks
Pretty Good Backyard Mechanic - Thanks To Rich and this Forum!
0

#11 User is offline   thelostartof Icon

  • Level 3 Member
  • Icon
  • Group: Vendor
  • Posts: 1,848
  • Joined: 28-March 04
  • Location:Apache Junction, AZ

Posted 19 July 2005 - 11:44 AM

lol who cares if you can see them ... if you want next time i have an 850 here i can get pics and video of me removing them w/ the cowel ON ... as i DID this and left it on. ... you just remove the screws that hold it down and push it up when loosening those 14mm bolts


good for you on replacing it as most peoples are toast and the never thing to replace it

http://volvospeed.co...6474&hl=bushing


but yea it does NOT need to be removed just loosened and pushed upward which does save a good amount of time
Posted Image
0

#12 Guest_Guest_*

  • Group: Guests

Posted 20 July 2005 - 12:04 AM

QUOTE(thelostartof @ Jul 19 2005, 11:44 AM)
lol who cares if you can see them ... if you want next time i have an 850 here i can get pics and video of me removing them w/ the cowel ON ... as i DID this and left it on. ... you just remove the screws that hold it down and push it up when loosening those 14mm bolts
good for you on replacing it as most peoples are toast and the never thing to replace it

http://volvospeed.co...6474&hl=bushing
but yea it does NOT need to be removed just loosened and pushed upward which does save a good amount of time
View Post



With all due respect - believe we are talking about 2 separate issues. Certainly, I agree that just replacing the hard rubber bushing by itself does not require removal of the cowl.

However, Volvo part # 8631159 is the aluminum mount with bushing installed.

I don't know how your car was built - but I assure 100 percent that on my 1995 850 you can no way reach the two 14mm nuts without removing the upper cowl (big deal - a 5 minute job). It will not move- repeat will not move with the nuts bolted down.

I still believe you may be thinking about the bushing over the engine and not the bushing in the rear bolted into the firewall ( bolts facing upward) accesssable only by removing cowl.

Please check my pics again.

Peace brother- just trying to get the correct information out there wink.gif
0

#13 User is offline   NateB Icon

  • Level 1 Member
  • Pip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 475
  • Joined: 15-February 03

Posted 20 July 2005 - 12:09 AM

That was me above- somehow got logged off..

Incidently - there aren't any screws involved in the process, not a single one. Leading me again to believe we are both correct , just talking about 2 separate repair processes.

Post your pics and then I will know what part you are talking about - it's not the same one that I initially posted this thread on.

Oftentimes people argue and argue- only to later figure out they were both correct. Just talking about totally different issues.

This post has been edited by NateB: 20 July 2005 - 12:10 AM

NateB

1995 Volvo 850 T-5 Sedan
Houston, Tx.
Original Owner- 102,500 miles
Upsolute ECU (Adrenaline Racing)
Custom 2.5" Cat Back w/Magnaflow
SAMCO Turbo Hose Kit
Hosetechniques Silicone Vacuum Lines
Koni Sport Adjustable Struts /Bilstein HD Rear Shocks
Pretty Good Backyard Mechanic - Thanks To Rich and this Forum!
0

#14 User is offline   thelostartof Icon

  • Level 3 Member
  • Icon
  • Group: Vendor
  • Posts: 1,848
  • Joined: 28-March 04
  • Location:Apache Junction, AZ

Posted 20 July 2005 - 12:46 AM

did you even see that link i posted



i replaced that .. and removed it form the car w/o Removing the cowel .. you remove the little screws(torx) that hold the cowel ON and then just pull it up out of the way(no need to remove teh windshield wiper arms) .. and reach iun there with your hand and use a 1/4 drive rachet and 2-3 inch extension and a 14mm stocket ... and there are a washer on each stud under the nuts

trust me its the same f'ing thing you just put more time(and $) into R & Ring it


and on that note i'll send you $5 if you send me your old bad mount so i can just throw in another new bushings since i have lots of extras here

This post has been edited by thelostartof: 20 July 2005 - 01:07 AM

Posted Image
0

#15 User is offline   NateB Icon

  • Level 1 Member
  • Pip
  • Group: Members
  • Posts: 475
  • Joined: 15-February 03

Posted 20 July 2005 - 01:52 AM

QUOTE(thelostartof @ Jul 19 2005, 06:46 PM)
did you even see that link i posted



i replaced that .. and removed it form the car w/o Removing the cowel .. you remove the little screws(torx) that hold the cowel ON and then just pull it up out of the way(no need to remove teh windshield wiper arms) .. and reach iun there with your hand and use a 1/4 drive rachet and 2-3 inch extension and a 14mm stocket ... and there are a washer on each stud under the nuts

trust me its the same f'ing thing you just put more time(and $) into R & Ring it
and on that note i'll send you $5 if you send me your old bad mount so i can just throw in another new bushings since i have lots of extras here
View Post



OK- I gotcha- if you could pull your cowl back far enough to get to the nuts. You effective pulled the cowl for that area.

Course - Theres only a few more torx screws and the winshield wiper arms to do it the way I did it. Incidently, that is the recommended procedure by my long time expert Volvo only tech and shop owner. The cowl only took me bout 5 minutes to get off including the wiper arms.

I have to bend the cowl back for concern of breaking it.

Oh well - 2 rights make a right wink.gif
NateB

1995 Volvo 850 T-5 Sedan
Houston, Tx.
Original Owner- 102,500 miles
Upsolute ECU (Adrenaline Racing)
Custom 2.5" Cat Back w/Magnaflow
SAMCO Turbo Hose Kit
Hosetechniques Silicone Vacuum Lines
Koni Sport Adjustable Struts /Bilstein HD Rear Shocks
Pretty Good Backyard Mechanic - Thanks To Rich and this Forum!
0

Page 1 of 1

1 User(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 1 guests, 0 anonymous users