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For Those With The Elusive "boost Leak"


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#1 AnthonyR

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Posted 05 September 2005 - 06:40 AM

Alright guys, I am finding a couple of cars like mine now where the wastegate has misaligned over time. Basically my symptoms were wouldn't boost over 6psi in the summer, and boost would come on slow (4k+)

This is an extremely easy thing to check, so everyone with a boost problem should check it, and if you do have the same problem, let me know. Anyways, with the turbo's heatshield off, look at where the wastegate arm is, if you can see a ridg just above the housing, your wastegate is misaligned. see, very simple check. See pics below to know what to look for. And the fix, almost as easy, just hammer the hell out of it until that ridge is no longer visible, just don't get too carried away tongue.gif Also be careful not to accidentally hit the arm itself and bend it, just hit it square on the weld point where it goes into the turbo.

Here is a nice description burchs1 had (he had the same problem)

OK, well my car drives better than it ever has. The problem was caused by a misaligned wastegate. You may have remembered AnthonyR posted a thread here showing picutres of how his wastegate was misaligned, the gate itself was moved up a bit so it did not seal. I suspected this might be the case with my setup so I called Anthony and he came over here tonight. I will be posting some pictures, etc. and we will pin something here, with Rich's approval of course...so you're probably wondering what was done:

1) When looking at the Turbo with the heat shield off you will notice on the exhaust side of turbine is the waste gate arm that attaches to the compressor cbv valve via the actuator push rod.
2) The arm itself sits on a pin attached to the gate arm.
3) If you looked at my gate arm you would see that there was a gap between the gate arm and the turbine housing. Anthony had this same gap, the gap was causing the the internal gate to sit up to high, thus not making a seal at rest.
4) At rest or with the cbv not in bypass mode the hole in the push rod should basically drop right over the pin connected to the gate arm..this was not the case..I had to pull the rod from the compressor side with quite a bit of force to seat the rod on the gate arm.
5) Using several hammers, etc. we hammered down the gate arm on the outside of the turbine housing to eliminate the visible gap...this causes the gate to move down into proper position and gate arm itself moves over slightly such that the push rod aligns properly.
6) Took the car for a drive and man what a difference, car is boosting as it should now! I am very happy.

Now pounding on your turbo with a hammer is something you want to be very careful with, but there is no other way to fix this, as the arm that the push rod attaches to was not positioned properly, shortening or lengthing the rod would have done nothing to fix the vertical alignment of the gate.

here you can see the ridge I'm talking about.


There is where you hit it with the hammer in that little circle as to not bend the arm. Also the orientation of the rod when fully close should be pointing towards the front of the car ever so slightly to the drivers side.

Anyways, holy long post batman, but I was just trying to be thurough

-Anthony Randall
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2001 BMW 525i
1996 Volvo 850 - Not running and in pieces! Project for my lil sis!



#2 Playboy

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Posted 05 September 2005 - 06:35 PM

so just hammer that thing down? Mine doesn't seem to show too much of a gap, but as in the first pic there is a gap and at the top that rounded bolt is out alittle bit and not flush like shown in pic 2.

-Ryan

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#3 burchs1

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Posted 05 September 2005 - 07:30 PM

Yes,

Hammer it down, it is supposed to be flush with the turbine housing..like picture 2. Mine had a gap just like picture 1. My car drives correctly now...it was like a dog before. Now shifting is very smooth and acceleration is very quick. I would not have known how poorly the Turbo was operating had I not driven zimmy77's car and ridden in Anthony's car.

-Scott

QUOTE(NFGplayboy @ Sep 5 2005, 01:35 PM)
so just hammer that thing down? Mine doesn't seem to show too much of a gap, but as in the first pic there is a gap and at the top that rounded bolt is out alittle bit and not flush like shown in pic 2.

-Ryan
View Post

Edited by burchs1, 05 September 2005 - 07:31 PM.

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#4 AnthonyR

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Posted 06 September 2005 - 02:30 AM

QUOTE(NFGplayboy @ Sep 5 2005, 01:35 PM)
so just hammer that thing down? Mine doesn't seem to show too much of a gap, but as in the first pic there is a gap and at the top that rounded bolt is out alittle bit and not flush like shown in pic 2.

-Ryan
View Post


Yeah, none of that ridge should be visible. just hammer it down man, you'll be amazed at the difference it can make...
-Anthony Randall
OH Moderator
2001 BMW 525i
1996 Volvo 850 - Not running and in pieces! Project for my lil sis!

#5 ziddey

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Posted 06 September 2005 - 03:49 AM

wow
94 855t
dawes mbc @ 12-15psi depending on climate (Darn cutout)
dirty k+n cone + kevin's old ghettorigged heatshield (need to move onto slater's "ghetto" style setup)
bfg trac t/a 205/50/16s (pretty decent for a standard tire but they're no toyo)

QUOTE(jaxx @ Mar 30 2006, 12:54 PM) View Post
if you want to go fast, you want to die, if you want to die, don't buy a volvo ;)

#6 thelostartof

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Posted 02 November 2005 - 09:31 PM

here's another Good pic of what a leaking wastegate should look like



car would spike to 15+psi and only hold 10psi to redline

Edited by thelostartof, 26 April 2007 - 01:56 PM.


#7 Guest_t5rwannabe_*

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Posted 10 November 2005 - 06:19 PM

YES! I've owned a 95 850 turbo wagon and for 8 months and just recently found this problem. After I saw that gap I jumped up and down and ran around the house cuz I knew the car was low on power and it didn't boost till 4 grand ever since I bought the car. And yes, the power difference is orgasmic.

#8 96PlatinumEdition850

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Posted 30 May 2006 - 06:04 AM

This is an old thread but I felt the need to bump this. My elusive boost leak is cause by this for sure. After reading that someones car boosted to 15 and then dropped to 10 and held to redline I knew this was my problem. Today driving home I was testing my new boost gauge and what do you know it hits 15 and drops right to 10 immediately and then holds. Tomorrow that heatshield comes off and I fix this problem. Great piece of information for anyone.
96' 850 Platinum

#9 VS Legend

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Posted 30 May 2006 - 09:00 PM

I was gonna suggest scott check the wastegate but i thought either i was an idiot or someone else would mention it who knew what they were talking about.

Oh wait, both are true.
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#10 Autotechnica

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Posted 17 October 2006 - 03:32 AM

This is the problem I'm having currently. I can't figure out what it is. Could it be related to the wastegate?

I have some problems with boost. First of all, I have an upsolute chip running a constant 14-15psi w/ a 17psi spike limit. I have no boost leaks at all, my boost is dead on and there is no fade at all. Here is the problem. Recently (last few months) after a clean reset of the OBD2 computer and about a month or so of driving, my car would limit my boost to 5-8 psi, seems almost like the stock boost levels. I've had the Upsolute chip for quite some time and it never use to do this. I know the computer is limiting the boost because when I use the OBD2 scan tool to reset the computer, everything would be fine again for a couple months. I would get the full 15psi of boost. After that, I would have the same problem again. There are no check engine / lamda lights or any fault codes to read.
A quick run down of things done to the car. First of all it's an auto, it has a Turbo XS BOV (I know this will make the car run rich everytime it vents), it has no cats, 2.5" ss exhaust, 3" ss downpipe, K&N filter w/ EST heat shield, EST RIP kit, MSD blaster ss coil pack, Magnecore wires, NGK iridium plugs. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Bry

Edited by Autotechnica, 17 October 2006 - 03:33 AM.

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#11 prasamin

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Posted 17 October 2006 - 04:19 AM

QUOTE(Autotechnica @ Oct 16 2006, 08:32 PM) View Post
This is the problem I'm having currently. I can't figure out what it is. Could it be related to the wastegate?

I have some problems with boost. First of all, I have an upsolute chip running a constant 14-15psi w/ a 17psi spike limit. I have no boost leaks at all, my boost is dead on and there is no fade at all. Here is the problem. Recently (last few months) after a clean reset of the OBD2 computer and about a month or so of driving, my car would limit my boost to 5-8 psi, seems almost like the stock boost levels. I've had the Upsolute chip for quite some time and it never use to do this. I know the computer is limiting the boost because when I use the OBD2 scan tool to reset the computer, everything would be fine again for a couple months. I would get the full 15psi of boost. After that, I would have the same problem again. There are no check engine / lamda lights or any fault codes to read.
A quick run down of things done to the car. First of all it's an auto, it has a Turbo XS BOV (I know this will make the car run rich everytime it vents), it has no cats, 2.5" ss exhaust, 3" ss downpipe, K&N filter w/ EST heat shield, EST RIP kit, MSD blaster ss coil pack, Magnecore wires, NGK iridium plugs. Any ideas?

Thanks,

Bry



what do you mean it's the problem you're having? that means you found the problem right? pound on that wastegate!

#12 Autotechnica

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Posted 17 October 2006 - 01:40 PM

QUOTE(prasamin @ Oct 16 2006, 09:19 PM) View Post
what do you mean it's the problem you're having? that means you found the problem right? pound on that wastegate!


Sorry if that was confusing. I meant to say that I wasn't sure if it was the wastegate. Sounds a bit different than what this guy was experiencing, but I'm all out of ideas on what else it could be.

Bry
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2006 SAAB 9-3 Aero 6spd BSR Tuned

#13 JHEIII874T5M

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Posted 17 October 2006 - 01:43 PM

QUOTE(Autotechnica @ Oct 17 2006, 09:40 AM) View Post
Sorry if that was confusing. I meant to say that I wasn't sure if it was the wastegate. Sounds a bit different than what this guy was experiencing, but I'm all out of ideas on what else it could be.

Bry




So pull the heat shield off, grab a 1/2" drive and start banging at it.
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#14 Autotechnica

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Posted 17 October 2006 - 02:03 PM

QUOTE(JHEIII874T5M @ Oct 17 2006, 06:43 AM) View Post
So pull the heat shield off, grab a 1/2" drive and start banging at it.


Sounds good, thanks. I'll let you guys know if it solved the problem.

by the way, not only would the computer limit my boost, the spool would be ridiculously slow. It would get to the 5-8 PSI after 4000rpm. With my current mods, when I reset w/ the scanner tool, it would spool instantly up to 15psi. That post I made was a duplicate of one I made on swedespeed months ago. Since then, I've been having this repeated problem mentioned in my previous post even several times a day. It's becomming really annoying.

Bry
1996 Pewter Silver Volvo 850 19T Turbo (301.2WHP/353.3lbs*ft TRQ @ 18.5PSI, DynaPak) - Dyno'd 7/11/09
2006 SAAB 9-3 Aero 6spd BSR Tuned

#15 JHEIII874T5M

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Posted 17 October 2006 - 02:13 PM

QUOTE(Autotechnica @ Oct 17 2006, 10:03 AM) View Post
Sounds good, thanks. I'll let you guys know if it solved the problem.

by the way, not only would the computer limit my boost, the spool would be ridiculously slow. It would get to the 5-8 PSI after 4000rpm. With my current mods, when I reset w/ the scanner tool, it would spool instantly up to 15psi. That post I made was a duplicate of one I made on swedespeed months ago. Since then, I've been having this repeated problem mentioned in my previous post even several times a day. It's becomming really annoying.

Bry


Whoa... wait so when you reset the ECU the car acts fine?

If that's the case, what check engine codes were you throwing?

Edited by JHEIII874T5M, 17 October 2006 - 02:13 PM.

Joseph H. Essaye III
Dealer for ARP, Samco, Forge, KW Suspension, Aquamist, Quaife Differentials, ATP Turbo, Autometer, MSD, and more!
PM me or email me at jessaye@gmail.com if interested!

#16 Autotechnica

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Posted 17 October 2006 - 02:18 PM

QUOTE(JHEIII874T5M @ Oct 17 2006, 07:13 AM) View Post
Whoa... wait so when you reset the ECU the car acts fine?

If that's the case, what check engine codes were you throwing?


Yeah, that's why I said it's probably not the same problem. It seems to be computer related. I'm wondering if something I've done to the car is making the computer limit boost?

That's another problem, my car isn't throwing any codes at all. No lamda or check engine lights. Would the BOV screw up the computer? I'm wondering if I should recirculate it. I have an auto, not sure if that matters.

Thanks,

Bry
1996 Pewter Silver Volvo 850 19T Turbo (301.2WHP/353.3lbs*ft TRQ @ 18.5PSI, DynaPak) - Dyno'd 7/11/09
2006 SAAB 9-3 Aero 6spd BSR Tuned

#17 prasamin

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Posted 17 October 2006 - 02:19 PM

yeah, i would check codes then, cuz the ECU is sensing an issue and limiting it.

O2 sensors, vac leak, etc.

#18 JHEIII874T5M

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Posted 17 October 2006 - 02:21 PM

QUOTE(Autotechnica @ Oct 17 2006, 10:18 AM) View Post
Yeah, that's why I said it's probably not the same problem. It seems to be computer related. I'm wondering if something I've done to the car is making the computer limit boost?

That's another problem, my car isn't throwing any codes at all. No lamda or check engine lights. Would the BOV screw up the computer? I'm wondering if I should recirculate it. I have an auto, not sure if that matters.

Thanks,

Bry




AH, ok. Definitely NOT the same problem. Bry, I have found (at least on my 96 850 Turbo [rip]) that the BOV did not cause the car to enter limp mode. You say reset the computer, do you mean disconnecting the battery overnight?
Joseph H. Essaye III
Dealer for ARP, Samco, Forge, KW Suspension, Aquamist, Quaife Differentials, ATP Turbo, Autometer, MSD, and more!
PM me or email me at jessaye@gmail.com if interested!

#19 Autotechnica

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Posted 17 October 2006 - 02:21 PM

QUOTE(prasamin @ Oct 17 2006, 07:19 AM) View Post
yeah, i would check codes then, cuz the ECU is sensing an issue and limiting it.

O2 sensors, vac leak, etc.


lol, that's the problem, there aren't any codes to read. I've tried with the scan tool and it shows nothing. Because I've run out of ideas, I was thinking of replacing the accordian style intake tube. If that was leaking would it cause the computer to run in limp mode? Keep in mind I'm getting full boost, so I'm not sure what other lines could leak.

Thanks,

Bry

Edited by Autotechnica, 17 October 2006 - 02:23 PM.

1996 Pewter Silver Volvo 850 19T Turbo (301.2WHP/353.3lbs*ft TRQ @ 18.5PSI, DynaPak) - Dyno'd 7/11/09
2006 SAAB 9-3 Aero 6spd BSR Tuned

#20 Autotechnica

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Posted 17 October 2006 - 02:25 PM

QUOTE(JHEIII874T5M @ Oct 17 2006, 07:21 AM) View Post
AH, ok. Definitely NOT the same problem. Bry, I have found (at least on my 96 850 Turbo [rip]) that the BOV did not cause the car to enter limp mode. You say reset the computer, do you mean disconnecting the battery overnight?


No, just resetting it with the OBD2 scan tool. It would basically wipe any codes clean. The thing I don't understand is that the scan tool isn't picking up any codes, there are no check engine lights, yet when I reset with the scan tool, the car would be fine. It's odd that the car isn't really running in limp mode, but it's limiting boost? Is there a safety feature on the car that doesn't allow over a certain amount of boost? I'm only hitting 14-15 and spiking to 16-17 occasionally.

by the way, is your car auto? I've heard there are issues when using vented BOV's on autos with MAF's. I've also got the RIP kit with my BOV mounted to the charge pipe.

Bry

Edited by Autotechnica, 17 October 2006 - 02:28 PM.

1996 Pewter Silver Volvo 850 19T Turbo (301.2WHP/353.3lbs*ft TRQ @ 18.5PSI, DynaPak) - Dyno'd 7/11/09
2006 SAAB 9-3 Aero 6spd BSR Tuned




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