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Hard Starting


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#1 brick8

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Posted 10 October 2005 - 04:24 AM

I have noticed that lately I need to crank the starter longer than in the past. I have changed the plugs, rotor, cap, air filter and gas filter in the last eight months, but not the wires. I tested the wire that runs between the coil and the distributor cap today and it showed 2.2 k ohms. Should I replace the wires?
2005 V70 2.4t
2000 V70XC (converted to fwd)
1988 Schwinn Traveler

#2 the underlørd

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Posted 10 October 2005 - 08:44 AM

K, which car is this on?

2007.5 Chevy Duramax. Built Tranny. EfiLive. Twin Turbo. 600whp / 1000 ft lbs.


#3 brick8

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Posted 10 October 2005 - 01:27 PM

The vehicle is a 1997 850 T5 wagon with about 162,000 miles.

QUOTE(VS Underlord @ Oct 10 2005, 03:44 AM) View Post
K, which car is this on?

2005 V70 2.4t
2000 V70XC (converted to fwd)
1988 Schwinn Traveler

#4 brick8

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 02:11 PM

Any suggestions? I would appreciate your input before I replace something that isn't broken.
thanks.


QUOTE(brick8 @ Oct 10 2005, 08:27 AM) View Post
The vehicle is a 1997 850 T5 wagon with about 162,000 miles.

2005 V70 2.4t
2000 V70XC (converted to fwd)
1988 Schwinn Traveler

#5 T5BRICK

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Posted 12 October 2005 - 11:49 PM

my car takes longer to start when it is cold out. i'd check your battery and your alternator.
'06 Mazda3

#6 ed850

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Posted 13 October 2005 - 12:37 AM

You can check the age of the wires because Volvo prints the date they were manufactured on the wires.Also the resistance of the wires is not the only indicator of how well the insulation of the wires is holding up.One of the thing that causes wire problems is when the insulation starts to short out due to heat or moisture.
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#7 brick8

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Posted 07 November 2005 - 04:25 AM

QUOTE(ed850 @ Oct 12 2005, 06:37 PM) View Post
You can check the age of the wires because Volvo prints the date they were manufactured on the wires.Also the resistance of the wires is not the only indicator of how well the insulation of the wires is holding up.One of the thing that causes wire problems is when the insulation starts to short out due to heat or moisture.


The wires were original (thanks for the tip, dated 1996) so I bought a new set from fcpgroton and installed them this weekend. Also did the Seafoam in the intake thing. It was fun doing the work, but I haven't seen any difference yet. Still must crank a bit (5-10 seconds) before it catches. In the last year I have replaced the plugs, rotor, distributor cap, ignition wires, gas filter and air filter.
2005 V70 2.4t
2000 V70XC (converted to fwd)
1988 Schwinn Traveler

#8 Figawi

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Posted 07 November 2005 - 04:29 AM

my HPT does the same thing. it drives me nuts. could it be the battery if you've already replaced all those toher parts?
Andrew
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T Titanium Edition

#9 Figawi

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Posted 06 December 2005 - 12:59 AM

any resolution to this problem? my car is taking longer and longer to startup the colder it gets out. i had the battery tested and its fine.
Andrew
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T Titanium Edition

#10 Gilhuly

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Posted 06 December 2005 - 03:39 AM

I've been meaning to post on this. I've always cranked a little more than I would think is normal for start up(wa wa wa wa wa catch), but my experience w/ volvos is limited to my present ride (6 mos) so I don't know if its normal. My car is in a virtually perfect state of stage 0 and runs very well, though it does idle a bit high (950rpm), but smooth as buttah. My only element of stage 0 not done that I can think of is the fuel filter. OEM plugs gapped to .028, magnecores, MSD, new rotor,cap, clean throttle body, K&N. Turns over easier when warm. Philosophically, what would cause the extended revolutions before catching, fuel? It's gotta be, right? It's probably not spark or air. No other issues - never stumbles or anything.

FWIW, I just noticed these are all 96-97 T5 HPTs
1997 854 R White 191k, Upsolute, MSD Coil, EST 3" down pipe, 2.5" cat back, IPD rear sway bar, QBM endlinks, OMP Strut Tower Bar

#11 Figawi

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Posted 19 December 2005 - 01:05 AM

anyone figure this out yet?
Andrew
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T Titanium Edition

#12 starfish

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Posted 19 December 2005 - 02:52 AM

Long crank times are usually related to fuel pressure, mainly lack there of. Weak pumps or leaking fuel pressure regulators are often to blame.
<insert witty comment here>

#13 Figawi

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Posted 19 December 2005 - 02:54 AM

how can i test my pump and or regulator?
Andrew
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T Titanium Edition

#14 typhoon0003

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Posted 19 December 2005 - 03:02 AM

when i got my 850 it was very hard starting and had a brand new battery, tested the battery and had a bad cell, replaced it and was good for about a week and has long crank time now. im a gm mechanic and when i see cars with this problem it is usually the fuel pump leaking off pressure while sitting and it takes a while for the pump to build pressure back up. has anyone left a fuel pressure gauge on ovenight to see if pressure bleeds off?

#15 rp850

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Posted 19 December 2005 - 05:38 AM

Leaking fuel injector?


QUOTE(brick8 @ Oct 9 2005, 10:24 PM) View Post
I have noticed that lately I need to crank the starter longer than in the past. I have changed the plugs, rotor, cap, air filter and gas filter in the last eight months, but not the wires. I tested the wire that runs between the coil and the distributor cap today and it showed 2.2 k ohms. Should I replace the wires?

1995 855T
172,000 miles

#16 KS_R

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Posted 19 December 2005 - 05:46 AM

maybe the amount of cca (cold cranking amps), i remember talking about it in my auto tech class soph. year. i recall them talking about how if you had either to few (or many, not sure) you would have a lot of trouble starting in extreme cold conditions. don't hold me to it, but just do a little research on it and see what you come up with. good luck and i hope this helped you out.

#17 Figawi

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Posted 19 December 2005 - 07:44 AM

QUOTE(rp850 @ Dec 19 2005, 12:38 AM) View Post
Leaking fuel injector?


thats my guess but i dont smell fuel in the morning. should I?

my battery has also been tested and is working fine. car will always start so i dont think the fuel pump is going. what is the easiest and best way to check the fuel injectors?
Andrew
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T Titanium Edition

#18 Matts 850 GLT

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Posted 19 December 2005 - 02:32 PM

Hi

Your battery might be losing it in the cold weather. Try cleaning the connectors and the earth wire under the battery tray. If its not ignition it is a fuel problem.

On a cold morning, turn key to II and wait 3 seconds (fuel pressure builds up) then crank, any difference? This will let you know if it is related to fuel supply. To test pressure hook up a guage to the end of the fuel rail and take a reading. I am not sure what pressure it should show I am sure someone will know.

It might also be just poor fuel or moisture in the tank.

Hope this helps
Matt
1997 855 T5 auto

#19 rp850

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Posted 19 December 2005 - 05:49 PM

I don't think you'll necessarily smell fuel. What might happen is just enough fuel drips into the cylinder over night or whatever to cause the engine to not catch right away. I think the easiest way to check for it is to pull the plugs and see if you can tell if a particular plug is wet or very black (signs of running rich).


QUOTE(emerysmith @ Dec 19 2005, 01:44 AM) View Post
thats my guess but i dont smell fuel in the morning. should I?

my battery has also been tested and is working fine. car will always start so i dont think the fuel pump is going. what is the easiest and best way to check the fuel injectors?

Edited by rp850, 19 December 2005 - 05:50 PM.

1995 855T
172,000 miles

#20 deeruck

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Posted 19 December 2005 - 10:39 PM

QUOTE(rp850 @ Dec 20 2005, 04:49 AM) View Post
What might happen is just enough fuel drips into the cylinder over night or whatever to cause the engine to not catch right away. I think the easiest way to check for it is to pull the plugs and see if you can tell if a particular plug is wet or very black (signs of running rich).


Yeah, what happens is you lose pressure overnight, and it takes a few cranks to get the pressure back up.





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