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What To Know About A Manual Swap


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#1 matt b

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Posted 13 June 2007 - 08:47 PM

I've seen a lot of threads about the manual swap process, where to source parts, how much, how hard, etc. Most of the info is already on the site and basically needs to be pieced together. That's the whole point of this thread.

I'll add some eye candy tonight when I get home and post some pics of the car. My 97 wagon was finally converted to a manual. I don't know about too many LPT's that were swapped over, who knows, I may be first. I had the center console off earlier and had easy access to the wires (the wiring links below leave room for improvement.) but I forgot to take pics. Sorry. monkey.gif

I'm piecing together a complete manual swap kit, with all the parts listed below as well as some miscellaneous stuff that might make someone's life easier if they do it. Mine was pieced together painfully, mostly through the links below then some last minute oh, shit moments. I don't have an exact price yet, looking in the $1,500-$1,700 range, max. Do the math on the parts needed and I promise you'll hit $2,000 before you know it.

This is a compilation of some of the threads that are floating around on manual swaps:
How to source the parts
A breakdown of the wiring work
The actual trans swap
The add-ons and the misc. little things that can make your swap a nightmare.

Mechanical Parts:
VolvoSaabParts was where most people got their stuff (http://www.vandsautodismantlers.com/). I used EAP Auto Parts in Colorado. (303) 922-8397, there are plenty of junkyards around. My M56 was bought from LKQ (www.lkqcorp.com), it changed my mind about that company. It came with enough parts (cables, clips and bolts) that I ended up sending $250 worth of parts to the dealer and FCP Groton.

There are numerous little parts needed to complete the swap. If you're lucky, you'll get some of them when you order the trans. If you're not lucky, you'll have to work with a dealer or another source on getting these. I personally had a bad experience with the dealer (due to many other reasons), and decided to use FCP Groton for the parts. Call with part numbers and they'll have them shipped to you in no time.

Here is the link of the Parts Bible thread:

Parts Bible Thread

Some items were not included in that thread, they are mostly clips and other small things to make your life easier. You can probably re-use some of the stuff from the autotragic if you get creative, but for less than a $100, I didn't feel like messing with it.
From re-reading it: the cables are not included in that $100 figure. Cables alone are upwards of $250 at the dealer. There are cheaper options out there. wink.gif
Shifter cables: 9176272
Shifter cable clip and washer: 942915 and 973968
Shifter bracket, retainer and bushing: 3520134, 3520135 and 3520136
Clips for shifter bracket: 3502507

Slave Cylinder replacement
Click me for part numbers and prices

ECU:
ECU info

Basically: your auto ECU works fine, there is some minor wiring to do, but there is no need to track down a manual ECU. I am running an auto ECU and I like that having my RPM's drop quicker during shifts.

Wiring:
Wiring info

PM me if you can't read the thread above, I have it as a MS Word document as well. It's missing parts on how to disable some of the wiring under the center console, but I'll update the thread as I get that info.

Pretty pictures of a swap:
Part One

Part Two


Misc:

Short thrwo shifters:
Short throw info

More of the same

Parking Brake Repair:

You'll already have the car off the road, so this is a good time to repair some damaged parking brakes components. Below are the part numbers from Trent, (854TGA+), pulled from his recent repairs, along with comments on sourcing the parts.
QUOTE
9209756-7 x 2 Park brake cables
274270-8 x 1 Shoe set
3546028-6 x 2 Return spring
1273836-5 x 2 Return spring

I shopped around for prices, Cables could be found cheaper but I didn't want to mess around with wrong cables. The shoe set was way way way cheaper at the dealer! Return springs dealer only item.


Random shifting issues:
Hard shifting


I'll add to this as I can over the next few days.

Matt
MY97 855 Manual swap, Porsche Brakes, 16T on LPT block and plenty of IPD parts

MY05 XC90 2.5T AWD. Bone stock and staying that way.


#2 Gioseppe

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Posted 14 June 2007 - 01:38 AM

yeah, lets talk more about what fluids to use in an m56.
Volvo, of course, reccomends their synthetic manual transmission fluid, but at over $20/L eff that. I've heard from a couple people that Mobil1 0-40w synthetic motor oil is the way to go but after actually using the stuff it's waaaay too thin for californias climate.

Very shortly i'm gonna swap to royal purples synchromax mt fluid and see how it performs. my dad is currently running it in his bmw (s52 swapped e30 with the e36m3 tranny) and its the best performer of all the other fluids he's tried.

anyhow, fluids!
Joe - 95 854 turbo manual - Ask me.

#3 matt b

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Posted 14 June 2007 - 01:44 AM

Thanks guys, I just remember hitting that search button like a madman and I figured I'd save someone a few clicks.

Here's a little eye candy:

This is the clip that has screwed some of us over. Easy to forget, and you can only re-use one from the autotragic, if you're brave enough. Cheap as they are, it's better to buy them both new.


This is the top view of the bracket, it shows only a small section of the bracket, the bushing and the clip. But you should get the idea with that.


Your automatic trans brake fluid reservoir will have a small nipple, towards the passenger side, against the firewall. It can be cut , to allow the brake fluid from that reservoir to also work for the clutch master cylinder. I re-used a used line, but I would suggest buying a slightly longer than stock line. The kit I'm putting together will have a longer than stock line to avoid kinks.

And the money shot: ohmy.gif



Don't kid yourself, you'll shake a little at the knees when you drive it around the block the first time.

And to get the discussion going again:

Night and day from the auto trans. Every gear shift, that thing gets heard. I haven't even tried to hit full boost yet (15 lbs on this car) and it's already loud enough to get noticed by just about everyone around the car.

Matt
MY97 855 Manual swap, Porsche Brakes, 16T on LPT block and plenty of IPD parts

MY05 XC90 2.5T AWD. Bone stock and staying that way.


#4 matt b

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Posted 15 June 2007 - 05:34 PM

Did anyone else get code P1618 ? It's coming back on even after being cleared. We unplugged some wires underneath the console (cluster that plugs into the black plug underneath the ashtray) and it is still coming back.

I'd like to get it worked out.

Matt
MY97 855 Manual swap, Porsche Brakes, 16T on LPT block and plenty of IPD parts

MY05 XC90 2.5T AWD. Bone stock and staying that way.


#5 Gioseppe

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Posted 20 June 2007 - 01:56 AM

just an update on my end.... swapped to royal purple synchromax and it's 10000x better than mobil1 0-40w. Yang also swapped to Redline MTL and his is much better aswell.
Joe - 95 854 turbo manual - Ask me.

#6 matt b

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Posted 21 June 2007 - 02:33 PM

And I figured out that my CEL is only triggered when I put it in reverse. I can disable it as pending (no light), but as soon as I hit reverse, it comes back on.

I'll figure it out eventually, this thing's coming off w/o a manual map.

Matt
MY97 855 Manual swap, Porsche Brakes, 16T on LPT block and plenty of IPD parts

MY05 XC90 2.5T AWD. Bone stock and staying that way.


#7 matt b

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Posted 21 August 2007 - 02:41 PM

I added some part numbers to the first post, some were sent to me by Trent (854GTA+) for the parking brake repairs.

I've received some emails and PM's about sourcing M56's. I'm taking a step back from doing that since work is getting crazy again. I can help to some extent, but I no longer have manual transmissions or spare parts for sale. Sorry guys.

I'll have a solution to post for the P1618 code soon, we are still trying to track down a way to trick the ECU into thinking the TCU is acting fine, without having to run the TCU.

If your wiring is done right, the P1618, missing auxiliary input/output code will be the only one that pops up after the swap.

Matt
MY97 855 Manual swap, Porsche Brakes, 16T on LPT block and plenty of IPD parts

MY05 XC90 2.5T AWD. Bone stock and staying that way.


#8 prasamin

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Posted 21 August 2007 - 04:44 PM

QUOTE(matt b @ Aug 21 2007, 07:41 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I added some part numbers to the first post, some were sent to me by Trent (854GTA+) for the parking brake repairs.

I've received some emails and PM's about sourcing M56's. I'm taking a step back from doing that since work is getting crazy again. I can help to some extent, but I no longer have manual transmissions or spare parts for sale. Sorry guys.

I'll have a solution to post for the P1618 code soon, we are still trying to track down a way to trick the ECU into thinking the TCU is acting fine, without having to run the TCU.

If your wiring is done right, the P1618, missing auxiliary input/output code will be the only one that pops up after the swap.




that code never popped up on mine.....i just got a code for missing TCU, which was fixed with the manual map. you've got something mixed up in the wiring on the trans harness....you sure you have the pins jumpered correctly for the reverse lights?

or wait, is the P1618 code for the TCU missing? a manual map fixes that, and fixes the fuel cut issue between shifts....

#9 matt b

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Posted 21 August 2007 - 05:21 PM

QUOTE(prasamin @ Aug 21 2007, 12:44 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
that code never popped up on mine.....i just got a code for missing TCU, which was fixed with the manual map. you've got something mixed up in the wiring on the trans harness....you sure you have the pins jumpered correctly for the reverse lights?

or wait, is the P1618 code for the TCU missing? a manual map fixes that, and fixes the fuel cut issue between shifts....

The code for the missing TCU is P1618, which a manual map would fix, yes. I like the quick drops between gear changes, and since my ECU was already chipped (auto only) by ST USA, I'm not spending $675 on a RICA tune anytime soon. I'll keep running my chipped auto ECU until I land a 98 AWD 850 manual ECU. I had one lined up until the seller got stupid with his asking price.

I thought that the fuel cuts between gear changes were the source of my system too lean code, P0171, but they were not, it was from an intake leak. I'm just more gentle with the clutch and the gas, no whiplash so far. The car is a little harder to drive with the auto ECU, but even my wife likes it this way.

Back up lights and all wiring is mint, the shop did it and it's golden. A dealer in SC even made a comment about how clean the wiring was. You're correct when you say that P1618 is the TCU input/output issue.

Matt
MY97 855 Manual swap, Porsche Brakes, 16T on LPT block and plenty of IPD parts

MY05 XC90 2.5T AWD. Bone stock and staying that way.


#10 matt b

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Posted 22 August 2007 - 11:27 AM

QUOTE (Boomin850 @ Aug 22 2007, 01:50 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Get a better pic of the reverse light wiring colors. I thought it was the solid blue and blue/grey but iono. (thicker ones). I know Raf has the same question and Doug's write up wasn't uber clear on that one


I replied to Raf's emails last night and said this: blue/grey and blue. They were the thinner ones, not the thicker ones. I remember this well, I had my CAI off the car this past weekend and checked those two wires to make sure they were still snug. But then again, my swap goes back almost 3 months now and memory fades quick.

I'll pull it off again this weekend and check back.

Another thread with B-Mac's manual swap issues, questions, etc...

Click me

Matt
MY97 855 Manual swap, Porsche Brakes, 16T on LPT block and plenty of IPD parts

MY05 XC90 2.5T AWD. Bone stock and staying that way.


#11 Oreo931

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Posted 04 January 2010 - 04:39 AM

I am adding my input here to help anyone who is interested in doing a manual swap. Before I type, I would like to thank Danny (dmelvi007), Matt (matt B ), Alex (yangotang), Justin (chilled man), and ALL of Volvospeed, for the help I have been given with this project. If I didn't have access to these resources I would not have attempted the swap. Thank you for answering all of my dumb questions and not facepalming yourselves to death.

I wanted to add in this thread a couple hints/tips for any future swappers, and every topic I found that helped me with my swap.

HINTS/TIPS
Doing a manual swap is pretty straight forward. Hopefully you have someone with you that has done one before, but if not, make sure you have access to a Haynes manual or something similar, and if possible, "sidav." There are a few things in there that are very helpful, such as the order of installing parts, torque values, bolt tightening patterns, things that need to be cleaned or lubed, etc.

My experience was pretty good. I pulled the motor and trans out the top of the car and did my work that way. I only experienced problems with two things: 1. installing the M/T pedal assembly, and 2. installing the clutch master cylinder.

Pedal Assembly
First and foremost, it is 100% possible to install the pedals without removing the steering linkage (connection from steering wheel to steering rack). It takes a lot of clever maneuvering, but it is absolutely do-able, and it is how I did it. I heard from several people that removing the steering linkage is annoying, and you can also screw a lot of things up if you don't know what you're doing. Since I fit into that category, I didn't mess with it. FWIW, if you are struggling on this part of the swap, take comfort in the fact that it took me well over 2 hours to get the automatic pedal assembly out and the manual pedal assembly in. If you don't think you can do it, take a break and come back later. You'll get it eventually. This will be a million times easier in an x70 series car btw, as the pedal assembly is different and much easier to work with.

Clutch master cylinder
-Just a note before I get to the installation part... There is a metal plate covering the hole for the clutch master cylinder. Pull back the carpeting, and use something to bang the plate out. It's very easy.
..........
I struggled with this part for... :embarrassed: over 3 hours :embarrassed: ... Even worse, I had a friend helping me. I tried shoving the clutch master cylinder in its hole in any and all directions, it wouldn't fit. I tried loosening the brake booster bolts (what a royal pain in the ass), that didn't help. Finally thanks to Danny (Dmelvi007) on here, I learned that a pry bar works wonders in this situation. I used a large crowbar and pried the brake booster back (don't worry you wont damage it), and had the clutch master cylinder in within 3 minutes. I wish I had that help earlier. :facepalm:
You might not find it as difficult as I did. I heard from some that it slipped right in, I heard from others it took them hours. In any case, if you're having trouble, take out a pry bar. It will work.

Bleeding the clutch
I used a power bleeder first, two times, and then manually bled the clutch once after that. Use DOT4 brake fluid or greater. It took me driving the car a couple miles before the clutch felt right. So if you are using a new clutch (which you probably are), after you bleed it a couple times, drive the car before re-bleeding if the clutch doesn't feel right.

Things to remember
-Use the CORRECT MANUAL TRANSMISSION BOLTS for the flywheel, and USE THREADSEALANTon the flywheel bolts. Make sure you tighten them in the correct order and use the appropriate torque value.
-Use RED THREADLOCKER on the pressure plate torx bolts. Also pay attention to the correct tightening pattern and torque value.
-Use high temperature black grease (I used brake pad grease) on the shaft that the throwout/release bearing sits on. Make sure you CLEAN IT THOROUGHLY before putting on the grease.
-Automatic axles WILL WORK with manual transmissions, just make sure you use MANUAL transmission axle seals in the trans.


Some pricing/part number info

Posted Image


HELPFUL TOPICS FOR DOING A MANUAL SWAP

http://volvospeed.co...or-manual-swap/

http://volvospeed.co...-swap-underway/

http://volvospeed.co...or-manual-swap/

http://volvospeed.co...or-manual-swap/

http://volvospeed.co...ap-parts-bible/

http://www.v70r.com/...d=article&id=54

http://forums.turbob...0&postcount=237

http://socaleuro.com...read.php?t=9269

http://volvospeed.co...-swap-problems/

http://volvospeed.co...topped-working/

http://volvospeed.co...l-swappers-850/

http://forums.swedes...d=107895&page=2

http://volvospeed.co...-short-shifter/

http://volvospeed.co...-r/page__st__80

http://volvospeed.co...ge__hl__shifter

http://volvospeed.co...-parts-details/

http://volvospeed.co...ap-wiring-help/

http://volvospeed.co...er-manual-swap/

http://volvospeed.co...-swap-question/

http://volvospeed.co...talling-pedals/

http://volvospeed.co...-pics-included/

http://volvospeed.co...drain-and-fill/

http://volvospeed.co...reconditioning/

http://volvospeed.co...iring-question/

http://volvospeed.co...put-shaft-seal/

Posted Image

'95 854 Yellow T5-R Manual - garage queen (CarDomain)

'97 854 Black N/A Manual - winter beater


#12 matt b

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Posted 26 February 2010 - 08:25 PM

Manual throttle cable vs auto:

click me

Matt
MY97 855 Manual swap, Porsche Brakes, 16T on LPT block and plenty of IPD parts

MY05 XC90 2.5T AWD. Bone stock and staying that way.


#13 onscar

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Posted 19 May 2010 - 10:28 AM

Hello im new just wanna say thanks for the info on this ...i have a manual that i want to swap too..this will help!

#14 matt b

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Posted 20 May 2010 - 07:01 PM

You're welcome, glad it'll help someone else.

Matt
MY97 855 Manual swap, Porsche Brakes, 16T on LPT block and plenty of IPD parts

MY05 XC90 2.5T AWD. Bone stock and staying that way.


#15 faultywarrior

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Posted 22 May 2010 - 02:12 AM

I came across this and thought that it had GREAT pictures, and was a good guide. It's for Right-Hand-Drive, but it looks as if it applies to left-hand-drive's too.

http://www.volvoforu...ead.php?t=71697
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#16 aloaaron

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Posted 14 June 2010 - 03:13 AM

anyone want to do this job on my car for me? how much?

#17 mattyr51

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Posted 07 July 2010 - 10:04 PM

Alright guys have an issue pretty much done with my m56h swap but i am getting no start... The neutral safety switch is jumped out ( Green {which goes to starter} and Green/ Red) .... Put the the test light on the green and red to see if we get power which i am... Connected the two wires go to start car i get nothing!... so i replaced the green wire with another, and connected it to the starter... still i get nothing... checked all the wires and connections at the starter ... kinda baffled ... people may say started but the started was excellent a week ago. Any help ?

Thanks matt

#18 Specter86

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Posted 20 September 2010 - 07:35 PM

does anyone know if the 6 speeds are pretty much the same? or completely different transmission?

#19 matt b

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Posted 22 September 2010 - 05:30 PM

View PostSpecter86, on 20 September 2010 - 07:35 PM, said:

does anyone know if the 6 speeds are pretty much the same? or completely different transmission?

M66 ? Look at some of the build threads in the Showroom, they detail the issues. They are not identical, no but they can be used on our engines, yes.

Matt
MY97 855 Manual swap, Porsche Brakes, 16T on LPT block and plenty of IPD parts

MY05 XC90 2.5T AWD. Bone stock and staying that way.


#20 sfotsy

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Posted 07 January 2011 - 06:03 AM

Hi I am from Malaysia and i am using a 1996 Volvo 850 T5 ( Right hand drive ). I am thinking of changing my auto transmission into manual. I saw your this topic here regarding manual swap. I am wondering does it ok to follow your description here?





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