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850 A/c Clutch Gap Fix fix for a/c that stops blowing cold

#1 User is offline   Rower Icon

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Posted 16 July 2007 - 01:18 AM

Over a year ago I fixed my a/c using plastic bread bag clips and since my write up dissapeared with the server crash, I'll redo it.

Symptoms:
Your air conditioner runs fine for a little while then all of a sudden it blows warm air. The clutch actually dissengages and you have to turn off the a/c, wait a while then turn it back on and it will again work for a while. Mine would turn off whenever I accelerated hard and then would not come back on.

How to determine if the clutch gap is the culprit:
Next time the compressor clicks off (starts blowing warm air): leave the a/c on and take a wooden broomstick and push the clutch in with it. If the clutch engages with the push of the broomstick, you know thats the problem.

If the compressor is clicking on and off constantly every couple seconds, then thats a different problem, probably low freon.

Complicated fix:
Requires taking the clutch apart and putting some shims in somewhere.. I don't even know.

Easy fix:
Take 3 plastic bread bag clips and insert them on the outside of the clutch to push the clutch closer to where its supposed to be so it can engage automatically.

You'll need to cut the clips the way they look in the picture so they fit (it will all make sense when you try sliding them in place). I used a flat head screwdriver to spread the clutch apart while I slid the clip in. I also put crazy glue on the clips just to be certain they are not going to fly out with the centrifugal force. Make sure you work quickly once the glue is on because it will soften the clip. Once they are all in just break off the end of the clips. The bread clips were just the right size for my compressor but yours might be different. My brother's S60 is having the same problem but the clutch is different. The gap is smaller and a bit harder to get to, I'll probably cut up some copper sheet metal or maybe some old razors and slide them in.

It took me about 15 minutes when I did it about a year ago and it's still working.

Attached is the photo.

Good luck and let me know if it works for you too.


Attached File(s)


98 S70 T5
95 854 Turbo (wrecked, to be parted out soon)
South Florida
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#2 User is offline   dick Icon

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Posted 16 July 2007 - 03:12 AM

Cool fix. Too bad I just did the shim job successfully.
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#3 User is offline   bagodoosh Icon

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Posted 16 July 2007 - 03:53 AM

that's excellent.
i'll have to see if this will work on the 98 V70.
98 V70 T5M
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#4 User is offline   xallenx Icon

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Posted 16 July 2007 - 11:19 AM

This is perfect!! I was planning on doing it the other way...the hard way this weekend. But damn!!! this one is a whole lot easier. I'll give it a try. THANKS!
95 850 GLT
253K+ miles, got it for $500 bucks!!! Now w 6k HIDs/17" Canistos..
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#5 User is offline   Figawi Icon

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Posted 16 July 2007 - 12:35 PM

Great write-up. I just added it to the Pinned Repairs topic.
Andrew
2004 Volvo V70 2.5T Titanium Edition
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#6 User is offline   n8-50 Icon

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Posted 16 July 2007 - 08:03 PM

Ghetto-tastic. Why not pin the right way to fix it while you're pinning stuff.

Shim Removal writeup post.
Nathan
Las Vegas, NV

96 850 Turbo Wagon
111,000 miles
Ebay Ford o2 sensors, Nakamichi cd40 head unit (speakers to follow stage 0 aka fixing broke stuff).

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#7 User is offline   Rower Icon

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Posted 19 July 2007 - 02:48 AM

UPDATE

Today I fixed my brother's 2001 S60, same idea as the 850 but used copper sheet metal instead.. the bread clips were too thick (that will depend on your clutch though). Also, on the S60, it's much easier to access the clutch from the passenger wheel well.

Method:

1. Remove the passenger front wheel
2. Remove 2 - 10mm nuts holding plastic cover, peel back and tie in place.
3. Use a big clip or vise grip to squeeze the clutch in to make room for the clip.
4. You will be pushing the bumper/rivet by making a spacer/washer.
5. Make your clips/spacer like in the photo, cut the slot small and widen it untill it fits snug. It's a good idea to make them square so they can't rotate and fall out.
6. And since no job is complete w/o a bit of Krazy glue, drop some in there with the clip/vise still on and then let it go.

Attached is the photo.



Attached File(s)


98 S70 T5
95 854 Turbo (wrecked, to be parted out soon)
South Florida
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#8 User is offline   xallenx Icon

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Posted 19 July 2007 - 11:13 AM

I just did this fix..but instead of bread clips I just used of course a piece of zip tie. Ghettorific!!!!
95 850 GLT
253K+ miles, got it for $500 bucks!!! Now w 6k HIDs/17" Canistos..
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#9 User is offline   Rower Icon

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Posted 20 July 2007 - 01:36 AM

QUOTE(xallenx @ Jul 19 2007, 07:13 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
I just did this fix..but instead of bread clips I just used of course a piece of zip tie. Ghettorific!!!!


Come on man, you gotta post a pic!
98 S70 T5
95 854 Turbo (wrecked, to be parted out soon)
South Florida
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#10 User is offline   flybear Icon

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Posted 24 July 2007 - 12:18 AM

So, if I took this in to a dealership, what would this type of repair usually run?

Just curious.
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#11 User is offline   redsouther Icon

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 08:40 PM

I just performed this repair on my 2000 v70, and it worked like a charm! The gap measured out at 0.8mm, so I went to the grocery store for my parts (the bread clips). My clutch plate was a little different from the one in your photos - I wasn't able to get the shims in the same locations, and I had to cut them into much smaller pieces. They were also a bit too thick, so I beat them down with a hammer...it took several tries but I managed to get 3 shims in at the correct thickness to give me a gap of 0.35mm all around the interface.

It's now been a week, and the a/c has been perfect under some very heavy use! I'll try to post some pics when I get a chance.

Thanks for the great advice!!
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#12 User is offline   KlausC Icon

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Posted 02 August 2007 - 11:55 PM

QUOTE(Rower @ Jul 19 2007, 08:36 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Come on man, you gotta post a pic!

I have to thank you for a great solution to a $300 problem! I hope you don't mind, but I also posted your solutionn on the Brickboard.com
This fix, even if I have to do it every spring, is great. What a novel idea smile.gif

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#13 User is offline   Gilhuly Icon

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Posted 03 August 2007 - 12:37 PM

Couldn't have said it better myself. Ghetto-tastic.

See, there, that wasn't better.

I have this issue so I'm as giddy as a schoolgirl over the hope for a cheap fix. I have plenty of freon.



QUOTE(n8-50 @ Jul 16 2007, 04:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
Ghetto-tastic. Why not pin the right way to fix it while you're pinning stuff.

Shim Removal writeup post.

1997 854 R White, Upsolute, MSD Coil, EST 3" down pipe, 2.5" cat back, IPD rear sway bar, QBM endlinks, OMP Strut Tower Bar
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#14 User is offline   Gilhuly Icon

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Posted 03 August 2007 - 09:44 PM

What is the factory clutch gap? Mine's over .85mm right now.
1997 854 R White, Upsolute, MSD Coil, EST 3" down pipe, 2.5" cat back, IPD rear sway bar, QBM endlinks, OMP Strut Tower Bar
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#15 User is offline   pfeener Icon

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Posted 04 August 2007 - 12:21 AM

It should be in the .3-.4 MM range or around .012 - .015 thousands

On a different note, I did the bread clip fix on my 98 S70 which had about .040 thousands of clearance and it worked like a champ. It was in the high 90's here today and it worked without a hitch. I usually don't like doing anything as "rube" as the bread clip fix, but I figured I had nothing to loose. If the clips fall out at least I know what the fix is and I'll pull the clutch and do it the right way.
'98 S70 GLT
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#16 User is offline   bagodoosh Icon

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Posted 06 August 2007 - 09:02 PM

i attempted this over the weekend.
a few things that i noticed:

1) gap can not be evenly measured until all 3 spacer are inserted.

2) be careful taking them out. they can be easily pushed farther down.

3) adhesive is required. i did not use any adhesive. at idle it seemed ok, but once the car hit higher RPMs, all 3 spacers flew out. laugh.gif

4) the way i would approach is again is to insert all 3, measure the gap. if the gap measures ok, take them out, and reinsert with adhesive. it seemed like with the original gap of .85mm the plastic clip brought it down nicely to .33mm.
98 V70 T5M
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#17 User is offline   powersct Icon

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Posted 06 August 2007 - 11:15 PM

Well I'll be damned...worked like a charm. YOU DA MAN! laugh.gif
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#18 User is offline   93 850 GLT Icon

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Posted 07 August 2007 - 03:22 AM

QUOTE(flybear @ Jul 23 2007, 08:18 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
So, if I took this in to a dealership, what would this type of repair usually run?

Just curious.



I just had a quote of $600 from a dealership to remove the shims.

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#19 User is offline   pfeener Icon

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Posted 07 August 2007 - 01:19 PM

Should take a couple of hours tops (around $200 or less). Maybe they quoted you a new clutch assembly and the removal of the compressor to install it which would mean draining and refilling the system as well.

P.S. for $600 you can get a new compressor installed (not from the dealer though).
'98 S70 GLT
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#20 User is offline   Yellow95 Icon

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Posted 07 August 2007 - 02:28 PM

Awesome post. Dont need it but I will keep it for later. Thanks

Gary
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