Bah

So...as if things didn't suck enough for me already, my heater core decided to blow last night.
After not being able to find anyone to do it for me today or get the core for me quick with o-rings etc, i said poke it, unplugged the hoses from the radiator, trying my best not to break anything. Top one was so reluctant to come out, but with two screwdrivers it'll come. Hopefully i didn't break any of the actual coupler, as i am trying to avoid replacing that lol...
Bought pre-molded U-pipe and clamps, and i honestly don't see how it could pop off. Everyone gives warnings about it, and says go at the engine side and cap there. Unfortunately i have a bunch of crap to remove, and while yes it probably would have taken 30 minutes, i don't want to take the risk of breaking something while i only have 1 car running. Regardless, the U-pipe fits cozily after i trimmed it some, and i took the collars off the hose lines and clamped the hell out of it. Fits snug, took it for a ride, ragged on the car some, and no leaks at all. Alot more pressure then i apparently had before for cooling, since the fan didn't even come on like it normally used to? Unless the fan broke and that's why the heater core popped...but lets hope that is not the case, since the temp gauge hasn't gone shooting up

Enough backstory:

9186847/ Heater Hose (lower/outlet)
9186849/ Heater Hose (upper/inlet)

Tasca wants ~100$ for these hoses!!!! Ridiculous! I redid most of the cars coolant lines 2 years ago, with stylins beefy ALL GLORY TO THE HYPNOTOAD uppers and lowers. Held great! I would have replaced these as well at the time, but i think i was too lazy.
For now i'm running bypass till i get the new core and o-rings etc, but, does anyone sell this in silicone? Can i make it silicone? Or if someone sells SS braided?

http://volvospeed.co...ter-core-hoses/


Courtesy of JDLC.

Is this a safe method as to what he did? I would probably double clamp if possible.

Where can i order silicone hoses appropriate for this job? I can buy URO hoses for this at ~$40, but i have yet to hear good about URO, and my own experience showed their other hoses to be cheaply made. If anyone thinks i should just go with URO, let me know and i'll hop on that. Otherwise, i'd like to upgrade/improve these if possible. Trying to build reliability with performance

If someone sells premade silicone of these hoses, i would be interested as well. Also is dealer the best place to get O-rings for the heatercore + the collars + O-rings ?

Thanks!

P.S. i recommend everyone gets a piece of this heater core hose and keeps it with some clamps in their trunk. Luckily i was close to home, but if i was on the side of the road, there's no way i could get under the engine or remove all that crap to bypass, and other then tieing a loop or something with vices, which you wont have on the side of the road, you can do this . Pull the hoses out on the side of the road, check. Put hose on, check. Clamp, check. If your not gonna use it as a longer temp bypass like i am, you could use it to get home and do it all in ~10 minutes. Just a thought, since i used stop leak in the 93 and refuse to use it in this car to fix the heater core lol..

So...this is gonna suck but here is the deal:

93 volvo 850, broke timing belt.
Bent Valves.
Got a 98 s70 head with one broken spring.
Replaced broken spring.
Resurfaced Head.
Put Head on.
Put non-VVIS intake manifold on.
Removed EGR (currently isn't plugged on exhaust manifold)
Got new hard fuel lines in the front of the car, new fuel rail and fuel regulator.
New timing belt components etc..
Timing is off ~1 tooth(not sure if i retarded or advanced. I hope i advanced since i have on the exhaust) and lets say ~1 tooth on the intake(it's probably dead on, but benefit of the doubt).
Car has 2.5inch cat+back exhaust.
No interference felt when hand cranked after timing belt install.
Serpentine belt is NOT on.
Wiring on the car is corroded on alot of connectors. Knock sensor pin fell out, but pretty sure i put it back in fine.
ECT sensor wiring on the harness side is pretty much crap. The ECT itself wiring was a bit frayed, but i did electrical tape to prevent shorts then taped it all up.
I did not mark the camshaft or distributor on the cam's, so i put those back on in what manner felt right. The distributor piece on the cam feels like it can only go one way, while the cam side i could see putting it on in 2 different manners.
the car RAN (it didn't stall etc, just a rough idle) before the belt broke. Car has been sitting since November. Before belt broke every component worked.
Plugs looked a bit fouled since i re-used them, they are plat +4's but the car ran with them before. I did not clean them before reinstalling, and the old head was thrown around for sure.


Which brings us to last night:
I finally got everything together. Went to start the car with the serpentine off, and the charger on the battery. Didn't have the ground tightened down, but it wasn't going anywhere (it had a good connection). Went to start the first time...starts chugging..then omfg loud (the cat is not 100% back on). It was *RUNNING* with my foot to the floor on the gas. The second i left off it lost all power and died. It got up in RPMs clearly, although i didn't see if the tach moved or not. The lights on the dash stayed on the entire time, but if i remember right that is due to not having the serpentine on? I poured some oil on the cams and tried again, knowing it probably isn't getting any oil to the top. If i just start it like normal it catches then dies immediately. If i keep foot to the floor, its loud and it will catch itself but i don't want to do this for an extended period of time due to the noise and potential damage to the engine. The second i try to feather it down the car just dies. It seems like it tries to keep alive but just doesn't get it.

At one point when i did it for an extended period at the high rpms, smoke/carbon/exhaust was coming out the non-bolted up cat, and the manifold was getting hot. This leads me to believe there is definitely spark and fuel?

I checked fuel at the rail after trying to start and the fuel squirts out.
This new fuel rail had these rubber spacers in the injector holes, so i left them there and put my injectors in with their respective O-rings on top as well. I don't see fuel squirting anywhere so i assume this is ok.
I put a new distributor on, but re-used the old cap. Like i said, the car ran before all this happened, so the wires and cap are hard for me to suspect.
Would the car act like this if the plugs were dirty?
Is it possible i have the cam 180 degrees out of time? Or would the car not even get up in RPMs if this was the case?
Will the car not start without the serpentine on? (i don't see why especially with the charger on the battery.)
Does this sound like low compression? Did i royally poke up and just waste hundreds of dollars on this car?
Does this sound like i just need to put oil in the cylinders? I don't understand how the car could build up RPMs if it had no compression, right? Or am i wrong to think this.
There was some corrosion on the cam and crank sensor connectors, are they potential suspects to this?
Would a bad ECT do this? Or would it not do anything with a bad ECT?

The IAC makes sounds, but i can pull the hose off and see if it is blowing air or not. If the IAC was dirty, wouldn't it idle with my foot on the gas somewhat and not just die?

With the timing off by that little bit, i figure the car should still be able to start right? or does this sound exactly like the timing needs to be fixed. I checked the back holes and tried to line up as best as possible, but on the exhaust i tried to go by the PO marks since i couldn't see the exhaust side head halves that clearly.

Thanks guys...i've got 2 weeks before i go back home. The car sounded strong as i tried to get it started. I haven't changed the oil yet in it since i wanted to see it run first. Does it sound like i somehow put the intake manifold on wrong? lol, not likely but i'm open to any suggestions.

I'm trying to complete my conversion to remove VVIS on this car since i pretty much had to, and i need the fuel lines (Both of them. They shouldnt be that long, but, this is what i need:

Regulator on the rail
Lines to the rail and the return line
Fuel Rail from 95+


it should have the regulator there (i need the regulator)

I need these two lines! They should connect right below the engine, not too hard to remove i don't think....

And of course, the rail itself with everything to attach it to the intake manifold.


let me know ASAP

So, anyone who has owned an 850, has more then likely had their overhead dome light console break at some point. All of mine have broken eventually, either the switches break, or the covers shatter or something happens...the x70 versions seem to last longer, but that's aside the point.
The X70 versions have the 3 buttons with LED back-lighting. Of course, there is the mod of using pin 8 and running a wire from this pin to the headlight switch, or really anywhere that does 12V instrument lighting (dash switches etc...). That's my understanding, and most people run the wire and hide it up under the headliner or stuff it and run it down the side.
That's easy enough, you just need an old harness, take the pin with a remaining slice of wire, and put it in pin 8, and add wire and mate it to your destination. Since the 850's aren't prewired for this, getting the wire where you want it is what turns me off. I don't plan on dropping the headliner anytime soon, and i don't know how easy it is to find an ignition wire source up in the sunroof.

So, the end result is there is no ignition wire you can use readily in the dome light harness. Poo.

I had an old broken console i just wanted to play with, and had a 9V nearby and just wanted to see what it looked like. Cool stuff. Did a quick check, was using ~7.5mA at 9V, so i'll check the draw at 12V but i imagine its not much more.

How about a solar diode/solar transistor? If its light outside, the lights will be off. Regardless of the car being on or anything else. If its dark outside, lights on, Regardless if the car is off or on.
Problems i see:
1. constant current draw. even if its 10mA, do you really want the extra draw on the battery? Not gonna kill the battery overnight or even in a month probably, since the car itself uses ~40mA for the alarm and everything? And if it only turns on at night, car location could affect this greatly. But assume you park your car in a dark garage all the time. Even if the car is in direct sunlight, there will be some draw i believe, but i hate analog and i slept through my amplifier design class. woops. it would be probably closer to ~1mA, but this is based on design.
2. If someone breaks into your car, they can now see where the dome lights are that much easier. Woops.

Advantages:
1. If you sit in your car with the lights off, and need to turn them on, they will be there for you to see. I never have had the problem of not knowing where the dome light switches are, hence why this is just for giggles, but i guess some people have and do. Even if you leave your car unlocked and have to close your door, you'll know where the switches are with no key in the ignition. Woah keanu reeves!
2. No wires hanging above your headliner, which has never been a problem for anyone before. But hey, wheres the fun in that.

Thoughts?

Keep in mind this mod would cost ~$3 tops, unless photodiodes are expensive. no need to get crazy and mill something etc, i'm thinking along the lines of 5-6 components max.

Hey guys,

So i recently just bought a passenger side wide angle mirror (as i'm sure a bunch of you just did ). Haven't got a chance to look at it, but i want to install it soon. Any tips/comments on installing it? How exactly do i pull the old one out? I seem to recall a thread on this, but no dice finding it, so if you can link to it i'd appreciate it. I seem to recall you literally pop this out and push the other one in, but something about the plastic clips are brittle and can break? Pretty much if anyone has a writeup on doing them i'd appreciate it.irro

Now to the other note, while goofing around on vardis looking for part numbers, i stumbled upon this:

part number: 9171308

Which lists as Glass, L.H. Wide Angle.

Tasca has them listed for a reasonable price, and since i have to make an order to them next week i might throw this in too.

http://www.skandix.d...r-side/1004446/ - they sell them as well.

So does anyone know if this mirror is heated? I'm assuming it fits into the motor for our cars as well? And the pictures show no bacon symbol on vardis on that webpage, so for those of us who don't want bacon ( i know i know lol)

Not to hurt peoples sales on these, but i seem to have trouble finding the drivers side on the for sale, there is always tons of passenger.

Thanks guys