Bah

So i'm a broken record, but anyways history on the 93;

New head on it from a 98 s70 NA
Removed VVIS. Vacuum lines are all disconnected. Reservoir still below car, but no vac lines to it. Solenoid is capped off.
Removed EGR. Manifold has the old pipe banged shut in it, not sure how well this works but so far it's seemed to be fine. The thermostat is disconnected, vacuum lines capped off.
Newer style hard fuel lines to the front of the car, came with a used FPR. Seems to be fine.

More history; the car has a bad 02 sensor, and since its 93, they only use 1 sensor. I've rigged an old rear sensor from my 93 up to it, but, it gets the code pretty much always. I don't have a resistor in place for the EGR. I dont think i have read codes on the right port, since i always forget the numbers, but i got 1-1-1. I need to recheck, but i imagine it will be EGR and O2 sensor.

Now the issue, At around 1800 RPM, where i believe VVIS vacuum reservoir is supposed to be opened, the car has no power...then i cheese it some and it jumps up to ~2500 and you start getting the power back. It's annoying for the most part, and i'm not a fan of it not being linear on a NA car lmfao...Car has the stock throttle plate, and i know how it drove with VVIS, and it's the same feeling except in this issue. It's fine on the highway, but i feel sometimes it is bucking or not running smooth when cruising from 1500-2100 RPMs.

So my conclusion so far is; VVIS used a different tune for NAs. Now that i don't have VVIS, the car is confused and the fuel map is saying dump/lean the fuel at these rpms. Since i'm sure the O2 code has been set now, it's gone to closed loop, so it's ignoring whatever the MAF/O2 says pretty much? And since that would be the case, it would be using a VVIS tune. This is assuming that VVIS is infact, a different tune then that of non-VVIS NA's. I have read in the past of those making custom VVIS controllers, and I start to wonder now, if there was infact different tunes for VVIS, there method of tuning would have been based upon such. I also have read of people doing VVIS deletes and no mention of swapping ECUs.

So, since there is a solenoid controlled by the ECU for VVIS, is there infact a different tune for VVIS cars? Or was it simply the exact same tunes etc but with a solenoid control? If so, i need to start looking in other places...

Thanks

So, this is on the 93 850, with the new head etc....

It's been having serpentine issues, but i took care of that.
Did my usual night driving tonight, 100 miles worth, and as i pull up to where i need, let the car idle for a little, then turn the car off....POW....????
Coolant gushing out of the car, i start going WTF?

Quickly open the hood, see the upper radiator hose is gushing out (its a blue samco). Try to put back on quick, but, it's pouring steam and whatnot...no fun....

It's been leaking coolant somewhere in that area given by the small puddles i've seen in that area, and the coolant has been very slowly leaking, but its noticeable.

I know i had that hose clamped(i've put the upper hose on many times before with the same clamp, but, perhaps not well enough? Would this explain the leaking on the ground? I had overfilled the coolant resovoir before driving, since in the past the car never held pressure this well and has stop leak etc in it somewhere still after flushing....

Regardless, i imagine there was still coolant in the engine, but, did i do any potential HG or head damage in this instant of car being hot and off and the upper hose just pouring out? I eventually put the hose back on and refilled the reservoir. It took ~4 bottles of water, so not even close to how much the system holds..ive opened the cap before while the car is hot like a dummy, but never coolant loss like this.

So, not clamped properly and it took ~1000 miles to finally fall off? Overfilled reservoir and lose clamp? Or please for the love of god not be , headgasket blew? I can't believe it would be the headgasket since it literally blew once the car was off lol....

It has a green radiator cap, ~5 years old tops.

I'll put the hose back on and reclamp it up and hope to god it was just me being stupid and that i apparently never had the clamp on 100% correct...but why once i turned the car off?...

So I finally got the 93 running some weeks ago and had purchased the new style of belt for it. Getting it on is loads of fun by yourself, but I did it. First I had a squeal that would go away at idle but come on at higher rpms. Intermittent but I chalked that up to the power steering pump. Now the squeal went away and instead I get a popcorn sound. Fearing bent rods or something, I looked at my belt. Its getting chewed into on the top side in sorta the middle of the belt. Take a closer look and see the tensioner pulley has the belt 3/4 on pretty much. So as I run, its I guess biting it on the plastic. The new belt I have is destroyed in this regard but I guess with 3/4 a belt I could still drive.
This is the old style tensioner on this car and im trying now to use the new style belt. Is this happening because im using the old style tensioner with the new belt? Should I try the old style belt and just live with it? Im gonna try back the old routing tommorow and see if it fixes. Otherwise is it the tensioner not providing enough spring for the new belt?
I replaced the tensioner pulley since it was sieging up some but that doesn't seem to have been the fix, as I put the new style fresh belt back on and begun to hear popping.

Im open to all ideas, but its clearly not seating properly on the tensioner pulley. I can't find this issue anywhere. I dont mind upgrading to the new style tensioner if I have to....but why did Volvo change styles anyways?


thanks again and im looking forward to all responses!

So...in a nice turn of events, Walmart sells Mothers products now! I have heard of them, but never experienced any of the goodness they sell. It isn't griots of course, and while i've been using meguiars lately, i have a feeling the volvo interior would like mothers products over meguiars. That's for another time though.

Walmart sells mothers products for cheap. I paid 5$ for the 5 ounce version of this:
http://www.amazon.co..._sim_sbs_auto_1

Good deal to experiment. I recently swapped the head on my 93 to an s70 head(Thank you ErikV11!), so while cleaner then before, it was nasty. And now that i have something worth cleaning, i figured why not.

First off, i have 0 clue whether this is appropriate to use on your head, so USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!! I got the black excrement that the product says i should, but again, i cannot verify. It says certain coatings not to use on. If your like me and just aren't worried with it, then check out the pics and maybe you wanna try the product.










So, these are all before pictures of the same spot. Its a cell phone camera, but the pics are good enough. I took plenty so you can get an idea of what it looked like.



Here is after just a few rubs on it and wiping it


better picture after a little more polish. I was using sparingly on a microfiber cloth from the dollar tree. I am positive a better cleaning tool would provide much better results.



Eww. Now this i have seen really nice and shiny on other cars and it is round and easy to polish. Lets see...



You can see just how much i put on here.



This was right after that 1 rub. WOW! Now, i have a feeling that the 2nd oil cap holder thingy is coated differently or something, as this shine is ridic compared to the other pics on the cam cover. Maybe it's just my cam cover? No clue, but you can see the shine. There is pitting or whatever you want to call that embedded into that thing. But, lets put some more effort in.



Pretty good if you ask me.



Ah your typical looking cover...with that nasty discoloration...lets see what this can do for that.



Not bad, but, i think with a rag and this polish, you won't be able to remove that discoloration. I didn't expect it to, but, it shows some signs of improvement.



Spent some time on the entire top now, and cleaned it up. I have only done where the cam lobes sit, not in the crevaces around the spark plugs. i would want to pull the boots up and stuff paper towels down then go around it all. Overall, compared to how it looked 30 minutes ago, not bad!



You can see i got some in this crevace...oops. But, just showing a comparison of cleaned vs the dirty.







Overall: I used less than 1/4 of the container to accomplish what you see above. I used dollar tree microfiber cloths, AND the engine was still warm. Comments about warm engine; the polish literally melts like butter. As i put it on the car, the heat of the engine and the sunny florida day, made this a bit more challenging. I recommend using after the car is cool, and maybe do it when its a nice temperature outside. It works fine, but, i think a lower temperature will give you more control with this product.

It isn't perfect and you can do much better with a real polishing method like we have under cosmetic by chuck. However, this is a 5$ product, from a reputable brand, that you can buy locally. Very little work involved, and you can clean up the oil stains and oxidation pretty easily.

Mothers sells a billet polish, and if you look through the forums, you can get a VERY VERY vibrant shine with that. However, i could not find this at the walmart, so went with this product. So keep in mind that this is not the best product if your looking for that super shine, but more of a casual clean shine.