Martynj's Profile
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- Group:
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- Active Posts:
- 181 (0.39 per day)
- Most Active In:
- FWD/AWD 1998 and Prior (57 posts)
- Joined:
- 10-December 08
- Profile Views:
- 1,104
- Last Active:
Mar 16 2010 02:40 AM- Currently:
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Previous Fields
- Location:
- Califon, NJ
- Crew:
- ___
Latest Visitors
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jdlc 
29 Dec 2009 - 13:16 -
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TyConn_S70 
07 Oct 2009 - 02:21
Posts I've Made
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In Topic: Powdercoating
Posted 15 Mar 2010
OrEo931, on 15 March 2010 - 10:12 AM, said:depends on the condition of the wheels. if they dont need any repair, you can usually find places that will do it for 60-70 bucks a wheel. there are a couple places in philly that do good work for 65 a wheel, but they dont remove or mount tires, so you'd have to get that done separately.
Yeah, I anticipate having to have the tires removed prior to dropping them off. Very minor curb scuffs I wouldn't go crazy reapiring but anything significant I would. I might be picking up a set of Canistos and was considering doing them up in Black. Do I need to find a shop that works specifically w/ wheels or can any metal shop that powdercoats handle the process?
Thanks for the info! -
In Topic: Replacing Oil Cooler Lines
Posted 29 Jan 2010
holler1, on 29 January 2010 - 09:03 AM, said:The engine oil cooler lines connect from the passenger's side of the rad, under the engine, into a small oil thermostat located right under the crankshaft pulley. Take a look at these pictures. http://picasaweb.goo...COyrqtbYvfHYIA#
Best way to get to it is to jack up and remove the driver's side front wheel and fold back the bottom of the flexible cover. You will have to remove and replace some rivets. I think only a small amount of oil (not ATF-that is another set of lines on the driver's side of the rad) will come out since the thermostat is located near the top of the oil sump.
There are two problem areas in this job. One is getting the lines out and putting them back in the thermostat. The other is the bolt that holds the bracket on the middle of the lines to the engine. You can take off the clamp that holds the lines into the thermostat, using a Torx socket, but I found it easier to remove the thermostat itself first, in order to get the lines back in without damaging the O rings. I damaged an O ring the first time I did it and had to repeat. The bolt that holds the lines to the engine is hard to reach and I had to use a long extension. The bolt is around 10-12 mm, not sure. It isn't hard to get out but I found it hard to get back in. As cn90 indicated, get new O rings. Be careful removing the clamps to the radiator- open them slightly and pull the whole line away from the rad.
Excellent info and the pictures in your link really shed some like on the oil thermostat side. Will I need more rivets to reinstall the fender lining or are they a reusable type? Otherwise it seems pretty straight forward.
Thanks -
In Topic: Need To Replace The Front Pads On My S70. What Is Comparable To Oem?
Posted 29 Jan 2010
+1 on the Akebonos. Not zero dust but wayyyyy better than OEM pads and they stop the car the same or better. -
In Topic: Vibration
Posted 20 Jan 2010
I was getting some vibration before but the hub was so bad I wasn't sure if maybe some of it was coming from that. It does seem worse now though. The new hub was really hard to get on the axle but seemed like it went on correctly. Would a vibration from that be intermittent though? There does seem to be something happening at slower speeds too, just much less to barely noticeable.
Is there a way to check if the axle is seated in the hub correctly w/o complete dissassembly? -
In Topic: Please Help! Does The 92 940Turbo Have Stock Amplifier
Posted 5 Jan 2010
check this link on BB. Looks like it has everything laid out for you.
http://www.brickboar...s_included.html
My Information
- Member Title:
- Level 1 Member
- Age:
- 38 years old
- Birthday:
- February 19, 1972
- Gender:
- Interests:
- Skateboarding, Fishing, Volvoing (not necessarily in that order)
Contact Information
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- Click here to e-mail me
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