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Martynj's Profile User Rating: -----

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179 (0.39 per day)
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FWD/AWD 1998 and Prior (57 posts)
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10-December 08
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User is offline Mar 02 2010 03:29 AM
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Location:
Califon, NJ
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Posts I've Made

  1. In Topic: Replacing Oil Cooler Lines

    Posted 29 Jan 2010

    View Postholler1, on 29 January 2010 - 09:03 AM, said:

    The engine oil cooler lines connect from the passenger's side of the rad, under the engine, into a small oil thermostat located right under the crankshaft pulley. Take a look at these pictures. http://picasaweb.goo...COyrqtbYvfHYIA#
    Best way to get to it is to jack up and remove the driver's side front wheel and fold back the bottom of the flexible cover. You will have to remove and replace some rivets. I think only a small amount of oil (not ATF-that is another set of lines on the driver's side of the rad) will come out since the thermostat is located near the top of the oil sump.

    There are two problem areas in this job. One is getting the lines out and putting them back in the thermostat. The other is the bolt that holds the bracket on the middle of the lines to the engine. You can take off the clamp that holds the lines into the thermostat, using a Torx socket, but I found it easier to remove the thermostat itself first, in order to get the lines back in without damaging the O rings. I damaged an O ring the first time I did it and had to repeat. The bolt that holds the lines to the engine is hard to reach and I had to use a long extension. The bolt is around 10-12 mm, not sure. It isn't hard to get out but I found it hard to get back in. As cn90 indicated, get new O rings. Be careful removing the clamps to the radiator- open them slightly and pull the whole line away from the rad.


    Excellent info and the pictures in your link really shed some like on the oil thermostat side. Will I need more rivets to reinstall the fender lining or are they a reusable type? Otherwise it seems pretty straight forward.

    Thanks
  2. In Topic: Need To Replace The Front Pads On My S70. What Is Comparable To Oem?

    Posted 29 Jan 2010

    +1 on the Akebonos. Not zero dust but wayyyyy better than OEM pads and they stop the car the same or better.
  3. In Topic: Vibration

    Posted 20 Jan 2010

    I was getting some vibration before but the hub was so bad I wasn't sure if maybe some of it was coming from that. It does seem worse now though. The new hub was really hard to get on the axle but seemed like it went on correctly. Would a vibration from that be intermittent though? There does seem to be something happening at slower speeds too, just much less to barely noticeable.

    Is there a way to check if the axle is seated in the hub correctly w/o complete dissassembly?
  4. In Topic: Please Help! Does The 92 940Turbo Have Stock Amplifier

    Posted 5 Jan 2010

    check this link on BB. Looks like it has everything laid out for you.

    http://www.brickboar...s_included.html
  5. In Topic: Strange Metallic Woodpecker Like Sound

    Posted 29 Dec 2009

    Wheel Bearing/hub would be my vote. I'm about to do one of those myself.

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Member Title:
Level 1 Member
Age:
38 years old
Birthday:
February 19, 1972
Gender:
Interests:
Skateboarding, Fishing, Volvoing (not necessarily in that order)

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