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I posted this on MVS but still have persistent problems...maybe someone here can help. I'm including the dialogue there in its entirety. Title says Throttle Position- I meant to say TPS (throttle position sensor). Oh and this is on a '94 non-turbo 850 w/ EGR and 190+ miles..just acquired a few months ago.

Me: I had done a PCV replacement but used an aftermarket intake manifold gasket which leaked and therefore changed it out with an OEM gasket, essentially doing most of the PCV replacement over again. After getting the new intake manifold gasket back on the car and things running much better, initially the check engine light went out on its own- now it's back on with a vengeance. Could be that all of the air leak earlier from a bad gasket caused this, but now I'm getting a 2-1-3 code on socket A-1 (transmission) that translates to Throttle position (TPS) signal too high. Has anyone had this? Is it the Bosch sensor attached to the side of the throttle body that has lost it's stuff and I need a new one or is it possibly something else? I try to clear the code but it won't clear. Any ideas, please. I want that damn CEL off!



Reply: I would try first to reset Ecu with disconnecting negative battery cable for about an hour or left it disconnected over night,and then try to clear the code.
Maybe the ecu has blocked itself,it happens sometime,just like normal(desktop,laptop)computers do.
I think that's worth a try.



Me: Already done that...it was disconnected all last night but no change...

Bought a known good used TPS (throttle position sensor) from a guy on V.S. We'll see how it goes after that's in.



Me: (3 days later) Update: Part came, installed it and reset code...turned off check engine light...started car- Same 2-1-3 code reappears and this time the flashing up arrow on the dash...ughhhhhh file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/DAVIDE%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image001.gif



Reply: Disconnect the TPS and start the car. You should get a code for signal to low. If not, pull the plug on the computer, get the ohm meter out, and start checking the wire harness out. Ground circuits would be what I would be looking at first. My own 97' had a wire harness fault so it's not that uncommon.



Me: Thanks for your reply- maybe pulling on things to get the throttle body out of the way, etc. when I did the PCV system (intake manifold off twice- long story) could have damaged the wires. My son drove the car today and the good news it the flashing arrow is gone- check engine light persists. Another good things is I was able to turn off the the 2-1-3 code on A-1 (TPS signal too high) but still the check engine light is on- now I get 4-1-1 out of both A-2 and A-6. Code decipherer says TPS signal- that's it...so I'm stumped- wouldn't I get a "low" code from this if the TPS wiring is bad?



Reply: Mij, it feels like it is electrical file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/DAVIDE%7E1/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msohtml1/01/clip_image002.gif. I am sure that you have done the wire jiggle, cleaned the connections, checked for frayed wires and loose battery terminal connections and corrosion on the ground lugs. As a last thought, the age of the wires seem to be a problem in my car, the insulation has cracked due to heat and age, it may be that you have a short and this is causing your fault. Look in wire bundles, you alluded to the fact that you may have done some harm when tackling the manifold.
All being said, with your encyclopedic knowledge of Volvos, I know you will accept my humble suggestions in the manner they they have been profered.



Me: Thanks for your reply.. The fact of the matter is, I am a Volvo enthusiast but I still get a bit queezy when I tackle something I've not run up against for the fist time on these things- this is one of them. I became a moderator which forced me to learn more so I'm just learning like so many here- Ozark, Bill and now Vegas I believe know a whole lot more than I do about these cars. I'll check into the wire bundle again- it's just in such a location (the wires going to the connector on the TPS) that it's very hard to get any further along on it without taking a ton of things out of the way including the battery and battery tray, etc. When I get some time and my son isn't driving it, I'll to at it!



Me: (2 days later): upadate: Thought I would tackle this today once and for all...got under the hood and found the restricting valve under the master cylinder leaking so I tackled and hopefully fixed that...went in for the TPS again- hoping that I could figure it out... long story short, I decided to put the old one back in and see what happens. The bolts that tighten it one wouldn't come out- ended up stripping one out and so had to use a dremel tool to slot it...finally came out...old sensor reads 2-1-3 on A-1 as well as 4-1-1 on A2 and A5, so there's a signal Missing- tried to follow the wires from the TPS connector but it disappears into a loom and meets up with other looms, so that's where it stopped. Took all 3 computer out and sprayed the connectors with contact cleaner but this didn't change a thing- Check engine light is still on... I guess I'm going to have to test resistance on the connector itself- anyone know how to do this?

This is the little rectangular sensor w/ connector (I don't need the wire connector end) that is attached to the side of the throttle body marked "Bosh." After my PCV replacement I got the check engine light and can't clear a code for this being "intermittent too high." So, looks like it needs replacing. If anyone has this, I'd appreciate a post or an IM. Thanks!

So I took the intake manifold off of the 850 (non-turbo '94) last weekend and cleaned up the PCV system (that's another long story- there wasn't any oil in it and all lines were clear- weird)....anyway, after I got it all back together, replacing all rubber lines with silicone and doing a good job (I thought) of lining everything up, the car idles horribly. Thought I had turned the air lock on the Evap line that runs to the vacuum tree the wrong way (black of the black/white cylinder faces the tree, right?) and so changed that so air flows to the vacuum tree but not the other way and tried to reset everything but still a CEL comes on...at idle it's horrible....even some engine bucking...once it starts going, there's no problem at all. At idle it's almost like the exhaust is partially clogged. Once on the highway the CEL will go off...back in stop and go traffic the CEL is back on... fuel trim code and sometimes a throttle speed sensor partially working code. I was really stumped until I looked at where the intake manifold bolts onto the engine again and I may have found the problem. I'm seeing that (just barely because most of it is covered up) that the left upper edge of the intake gasket is down further than the rest of the gasket... Could it be that it slid down while I was tightening everything and that the gasket itself is covering part of #1 intake? If this is so, then that cylinder is going to be starved for air- symptoms of bad idle. Probably when the car is at highway speeds, air will push past it and all is okay. Are there any insights here to this issue? I suppose I should have used just a tad of silicone or something to hold that damn gasket up while I was installing it. It is only held on by the lower screws until you get it buttoned up and I can see where that side could have slid down. I really don't want to have to take the intake manifold off again to pull that gasket up or better yet, just replace it with a new one. Anyway- the community's thoughts on this would be appreciated.

Asking $1650 or best offer (special V.S. price) for this '91 240 sedan. I don't need 4 cars on our insurance and since I bought and worked on the 850 my son's been driving it and the 240 has remained parked. This 240 is black with tan interior...new last year Pioneer stereo (with remote...I had thought it was a Sony but it's not) with 1/4 inch jack input for an auxiliary player like an iPod- sounds nice! Tires in great shape- plenty of tread left. A/C was converted to the newer R-134A and blows cold! Recent transmission flush (it's an automatic), new battery last year...new rear lights (all working)... paint is original (and no rust); has a K&N air filter. Oh, and I installed IPD heavy duty anti sway bars last year and replaced the exhaust... everything works flawlessly ...a nice comfortable and safe ride. When I got this car the odometer didn't work- it had been changed out. I got another odometer that functioned better and had to replace the gear in it... so true miles are not known...could be well over 200,000 miles but hey, it's a Volvo! Showing is just under 165,000 miles. Pictures available upon request or you can view them here: http://www.matthewsv...i...=a&start=28
Pictures are when I bought it...since then the hub caps have been replaced with OEM Volvo and the rear door speakers were upgraded. Trim pieces that were missing when I bought it were replaced and the dent in the rear bumper was taken out... She drives real strong! Guess that's about all- Oh, I'm in Knoxville, TN.
If you buy this, you get a few extra's... a spare head light, and full size wheel with tire (not counting the full size spare in the trunk). I also have several sets of rear lights that I went through trying to get a set that worked- ended up just buying them off of eBay. I also have another instrument cluster but it may need a bit of work if you're going to use it. Anyway, all is restored on this car!
MIJ

Just added to Craigslist: http://knoxville.cra...1129537465.html

Don't care of the condition...just need one for the 850 my son is driving now- he's bound to go off road w/ this thing! Don't even care if the hardware is long gone...
Oh, I also have a '93-'95 clockspring, 240 sway bars, P2 V70 front sway bar, or grocery tray to trade...or of course cash... I needs one quick before the kid goes in the ditch w/ the 850...he's just bound to...he drive's too close to the edge...
Who's Gots?