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  1. Today
  2. Volvo 850 t5 conversion

    It is, changed that over from the T5 just to be on the safe side
  3. WTB: S/V70 steering wheel

    In case you want to keep the alcantara, it might be salvageable. Take diluted cleaner and a toothbrush to it. The fibers absorb the oils & dirt from our hands and become matted.
  4. Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!

    F1C2 and F1C3 are incorrect (my bad) It's F12C and F12D have to do with F814 and F815 resp., but only as a part of a complicated lookup ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I seems to me that the logic for the PID control is (maybe partially) in the subroutine startung at BAF7 @ BAF9 : mov DPSEL, #1 mov DPTR, #0xF12C: F12C is put into DTPR #1 @ BAFF : mov DPSEL, #2 mov DPTR, #0xF13B F13B is put into DTPR #2 @2B01 In routine_2AEF (wich is lcalled several times in the subroutine starting at BAF7): F12C, F12D, F12E or F12F are read dependant of the value of R2 (since DTPR#1 is selected at 2ACF which points to F12C) In routine_BAF7 R2 is set to 0,1,2 or 3 before calling 2AEF. (mov R2, #0 @BB52; mov R2, #1 @BB5B; mov R2, #3 @BB9B) Rather complicated lookups and calculations are made in routine_2AEF which contains several lcalls to rouitine_2B5B The result of these calculation are put into: F814 (Reglersteigung) in case of R2 is #0 (F12C is read in routine_2AEF) F815 ( Reglersprunghoehe) in case of R2 is #1 (F12D is read in routine_2AEF) F81C ( ?? ) in case of R2 is #3 (F12F is read in routine_2AE)
  5. Volvo 850 t5 conversion

    Is the injector relay plugged in? It's near the radiator fan relay.
  6. WTB: S/V70 steering wheel

    That looks pretty good, I'll send you a PM!
  7. One OEM Propus C 17" x 7.5"

    I've sent $ thru PayPal , have you shipped the wheel?
  8. Hello people, I'm after someone that's successful converted a n/a 850 to a T5. Before you say get a T5, sentimental value. Anyhow after thinking £900 will do it, £1600 later, I've finally got the T5 engine in. Problem is, injectors won't fire. It'll start with fuel put into the cylinders for a couple of seconds, also will start for a couple of seconds with n/a ecu, confuddled? Car originally 95 850 2.5 10v manual Engine 97 v70 t5 Harness 94/95 850 t5 auto/ already wire/pnp Swapped relays Have 94/95 T5 auto and manual ecu Any ideas if the wiring from the ecu to fuse box is different? Ta people
  9. For the sake of keeping my R bumper safe in the winter, I have been swapping over to a spare black C70 bumper that I had laying around. It's ugly, but it works for the snow and ice. It is old, faded, has holes in it, Zip ties, etc. I would like to start using a XC70 bumper in the winter instead because it would fit the lines of the car better and I want to build a bash bar/ light bar for it as well. I want to trade my ugly C70 bumper for your similar condition XC70 bumper color doesn't matter and condition hardly does. Hopefully within a short distance from the South Bend Indiana area. I know this is a crap shoot, but figured I would give it a shot.
  10. WTB: S/V70 steering wheel

    I've got an old charcoal wheel from a 1998 V70R. It's leather wrapped with the suede inserts, not sure if that will work for you or not. The suede is worn off and the leather is not great, kind of sticky and wearing off. $20 plus whatever shipping is to Canada I can get better pictures if you want.
  11. Off Topic: The Thread

    Scab life
  12. Tuner4life's 1998 Saffron V70R

    I had more of a chance to mess with this over the weekend. I was pretty sure that the fittings were leaking because the bowls on top of each pump assembly were filling with fuel. Originally I dropped the front of the tank as much as I could by itself but it was still hard to see the smoking gun. As a quick test, I pulled the crossover tube that runs between the 2 pumps and replaced the fittings with the original style. I could pull that tube off and swap them on the bench. Was hoping to get lucky. Put some more gas in and had the same results. This was after about an hour with gas in the tanks: After sleeping on it I decided to go ahead and drop the whole subframe again. I left some things hooked up, but was able to drop it straight down under the car to gain enough clearance to get to the top of the tank if I needed to, as well as see the fuel pump buckets straight on. This time I was smarter about it and made a jig out of 2x4s that fastens to my transmission jack. This allowed me to drop the subframe, tank, and rear section of the exhaust all at the same time. This made things much more efficient and it only took about 2 hours to have the whole thing back out. Finally being able to get a good look at the pumps. I filled the tank back up and crawled back under to watch. Wouldn't you know... The lock rings are actually the culprit. I figured that since the cups were filling, that it was an issue with the lines, but the lock rings were not just leaking on the outside, they were leaking between the senders and rings as well which was filling up the cups. As seen here: I feel kind of dumb about the whole thing. I should have replaced the tank seals and lock rings the first time around, but they looked fine and I've never had an issue with this type of thing before. Also I should have just used the original fuel fittings like others had recommended. I figured that new > old, and maybe they still do, but I don't trust anything down there anymore.. The good news is that with my jig, I'll be able to replace the parts and fill the tank up before re-installing everything. I'll be able to see right away if there is an issue. So.. I've ordered the tank seals and lock rings. They should be here early next week die to Thanksgiving. I'm going to go ahead and swap the outer quick connect fittings to the originals too just to rule out the plastic fittings and also because I don't want to have to notch the new lock rings. This is only a 3 day week and there is no snow scheduled so I'll continue to drive the C70 for now. I had some vacation left over that I'm required to burn before the end of the year, so I'm taking all of next week off. Parts should arrive early in the week so there is absolutely no reason why this shouldn't be fixed and back on the road during that time. I cannot describe how ready I am to be done with this project and move on to other things lol.
  13. How Your Car Sits

    Nebulas come in 18" only. If those wheels are 17" then they are replicas.
  14. Tuners Rejoice! Free Tuning For M4.4!

    I've been trying to figure out the map lookup and logic for the PID control of lambda regulation, but haven't been having much luck. I've tried to find where the maps are referenced in code, but I can't find them addressed in any manner which I'm familiar. I thought about looking at other maps of similar 7x6 size for the way they're referenced, but the 3 P, I, TV maps are the only ones this size. I've cross referenced every .bin and can find no MOV DPTR to a location even close to the location of the maps, even in the 570 .bin. I've also tried looking at where the other lambda regulation parameters are referenced, but that didn't help. Also, Piet and Venderbroeck, where did you find any reference to F1C2 and F1C3? If I cross reference them to the 449.bin I see the same parameters are located at F114/F115, and are referred to in the DAMOS as FTEADMN - 'Minimalwert der Beladung des AKF's' and FTEADMX - 'Maximalwert der Beladung des AKF's' and they are under the category 'Tankentlüftung beladungsabhängig'. I can't find any references to them in the actual code. The reason for the curiosity is that I think the wideband lambda regulation routine could greatly benefit from a dynamic I factor. AFRs could become much more stable if the I factor was a dynamic variable related to the absolute deviation between the target and current AFR, vs a static map based on RPM and load.
  15. WTB: S/V70 steering wheel

    Does yours happen to look like this? I forgot that some tan Volvo interiors had the same charcoal airbag and base on the steering wheel
  16. I should mention the ECU is plugged in, no luck with it like that. Photo was taken a couple weeks ago
  17. How Your Car Sits

    Got the Nebs on the T5 SE yesterday. Looks sick. I think my dad has a cooler car than me now. Not sure what I am going to do about this yet lol. Getting the Öhlins and M66D swap happening in my R seems to be the best solution, though. Washed and waxed all the turbo cars today and then did a photoshoot. The R is done for the year, gonna try to get the T-5R out a couple more times but the weather will have to be perfect since it's tucked away in its building and I'm not washing it again until the spring, so it might be done, too. We'll keep the T5 SE out until the salt hits the streets. Not sure what we are going to do if I still have a job I have to drive to at that point though. Oh had some friends crash the photoshoot too.
  18. Pretty sure I have a very minor leak coming from my rack. Nothing serious but I have done so much to the car already and I need to put in the front track spec sway bar from IPD so I thought I would kill two birds with one stone. Like title says anyone have any good recommendations? I have not really found any thread about such a topic. Open to thoughts and opinions. Trying to find out if there is a definitive one to purchase due to quality or price. BTW; it's a 95 T-5R
  19. N/A Cams in LPT?

    450 whp sounds great for a P80! I'd definitely like to see the dyno numbers when you get the tune done! Sounds like a solid setup on the XC too. Similar to what I'd like to do as far as the cams, blue injectors, a 16t, and an HD CBV. Current plan is once I sell my other Swede (Saab 9-5 Aero...yes, it's pretty fast) I am going to get everything I need to do the cams, spark plug tube seals, and a complete timing job since the car is due. I'll post back with the results on the cams once I get everything done. Like I said before, I don't plan on getting a tune done quite yet.
  20. No ecu is most likely your problem
  21. For sale is a pair of rear window sunshades that came out of my 2000 V70 R. Both are in decent condition, and function as expected. Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr As is common on these, both shades have broken hooks/clips at the top, and the previous owner of my wagon fashioned the replacement clips that have been riveted on. Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Part numbers are pictured below, however, these are no longer available and have become hard to find. As such, I'm asking $125 plus shipping but am open to reasonable offers (via PM only) Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Thanks for looking!
  22. Yesterday
  23. N/A Cams in LPT?

    Ok so putting everything back to where it would be during a typical cam swap the base timing for the NA cams is -4° on the exhaust cam and -1° on the intake cam. Now she'll smoke tge front tires again
  24. https://www.superbrightleds.com/vehicle
  25. Andy's 2000 V70 R

    Thanks gdog! Yeah that's the same process here. My car was valued at ~$3,500, and after deducting a scrap value of ~$100, I got a check for around $3,400. I need to review it the work with the shop I'm taking it to, but fingers crossed it'll be enough to get my car fixed. I trimmed the fender liners to fit up onto the folded lip. It's not a perfect solution, as they're hard to remove for maintenance, but for now it's functional. I'll try to share some photos of what I did next time I'm working on the car. Thanks! I'm going to see about getting some other paint work done while I'm in there, but I don't think I'll be repainting the whole car. Thanks, hopefully I can get it fixed. Any money left over from the insurance will be spent on paint/body work, it just makes sense to do as much of that as I can while it's already at the paint shop. Nope. The total loss doesn't really affect my ownership of the car. While there are some cosmetics that need to be addressed, this car is so clean underneath due to it having never seen road salt before that I really don't want to move onto another one. Put the Satellites and studded Altimax Arctics back on for winter Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr Here's where you can really see the front fenders have been pulled - the front wheels sit about 2 inches inside of the fender Untitled by Andy Buresh, on Flickr
  26. Does anyone know where i can find red ones that fit my 850? All i can find is blue LED diodes for it. I already have the blue ones, but they are going out one by one and looks a little ricey.
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