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that's awesome, pal
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that looks nice
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VS and the 850 T-5R featured on Second Daily today
2005V70R replied to 2005V70R's topic in FWD/AWD 1998 and Prior
We'll be featuring at auction a very sweet 240 GL in about a week. https://seconddaily.com/1984-volvo-240-gl/ -
Turbo not working post manual Swap
Calvin Sonnik replied to hcaznacnud's topic in Performance Modifications
Let the ECU control it. Tell the ECU how to control it. Use a stock controller. The ECU has many parameters that are tuned to the way the regular controller works and would be a pain in the butt to spend hours and hours on a dyno to get it just right, instead of using what volvo programed the computer to do. The stock controller is fine, use it, change TCV pilot map and LDR map to make the boost you want and not bend rods in the process. Also if everything was working right especially with the better intercooler, you should be getting less boost NOT more. Boost is just the resistance to flow, you made the system flow better and cool better, so to make the load the same the ECU lowers boost. -
Change Orange to Green injectors - doesn´t work
Calvin Sonnik replied to ady123's topic in Performance Modifications
First, GET AN AFR GAUGE Then set the TCV Pilot map and LDR map back to stock. then change the following values... Injector Calibration: 0.7188 Injector Opening Time by Voltage : 5.00 5.8177 5.99 5.1556 6.97 3.6624 8.03 2.1693 9.02 1.7676 10.00 1.3659 10.99 1.1322 11.48 1.0412 11.97 0.9502 12.47 0.8815 13.03 0.8127 13.52 0.7528 14.02 0.6928 14.51 0.6437 15.00 0.5946 15.99 0.5224 after everything is confirmed good and AFRs look good change the TCV pilot and LDR map back to what you want. Make sure to scale the maps to a higher load if you want to go over the stock load limit of 8ms. It really helps to tune it right. Next time go to the M44 Wikia. It has all the info you could want on tuning M4.4 - Yesterday
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TorqueDVM changed their profile photo
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Looking for used set of four Pegasus wheels to mount a set of snow tires on for my 2006 S60R. They can have wear/scuffs/scrapes just nothing that compromises integrity/tire mounting. May consider other 16 or 17 in wheels as long as they will directly apply. Thanks!
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Painted the grille black, detailed the car, somehow lost my right side headlight wiper arm? 🤔 Bumper is getting replaced next
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Hi All, First post. Am one (of probably many) that has looked at a Volvo seat and thought "that looks damned comfy, perhaps that'll feel better in my landcruiser!". The Landcruiser is 1993 and doesn't have any electrics in the seating, or any electrics in general passed the absolute minimum. So after hunting in some scrap yards, I found two good looking 2002 S60 Leather seats. They look good, feel good. The left is manual and works just fine. The right is powered, and doesn't work quite so well. I cannot for the life of me get it going. I have the wiring diagrams, I've talked nicely to it, I've yelled at it, and then I've apologised to it about all those nasty things I called it's mother. I've got nothing. I have tested 12V straight on the motors and they move smoothly along with the seat. So there is clearly something wrong in between where I'm applying power, the switches, and it is going to the motors. I'll try a continuity test but my feeling is that, because the whole thing looks in good condition with no rust, ripped wires, corrosion etc, that I'm missing something glaringly obvious. If any of you have any knowledge to help me out that would be terrific - some pics attached. Thank you in advance!
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Raced it. It was a good day to race.
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Our Volvo barfed all it's fluid out of the transmission. Guessing from the pattern of corrosion in the paint on the transmission pan I am guessing that the leak is coming from the pan gasket on the higher side. Problem is, there seems to be a frame rail keeping me from getting to the transmission pan. I really don't want to have to drop the sub frame in order to change a measly gasket. Is there some other way to go about it?
- Last week
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Some people pay good money for such a thing
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Turbo not working post manual Swap
troyhyde replied to hcaznacnud's topic in Performance Modifications
Oh lordy, next post will be "I blew up my engine". Why don't you put the ECM in control of the boost and put a stock boost controller in the mix until you have things figured out. Has worked for a lot of people for a long time. -
G'day. My wife and I have picked up a rather used and abused 96 850GLT wagon to use in a charity rally raising funds for Cancer Research. The rally runs from Brisbane to Darwin in Australis, across mainly dirt and gravel roads including the possibility of river crossing. Now you must be thinking why not a 4wd / AWD SUV, well the rally bans these as thats just too easy. So I am after advice on the easiest / cheapest way to increase the ride height and gain some ground clearance. I will be installing a sump guard, but still would like to gain an inch or 2 or more if able. Any advice welcome. Below is the link to our FB page https://www.facebook.com/sbrnfi/ and a Map of the rally route. We will be doing this with 230 other teams, plus support, medical and media in May 2018. Cheers, Steve
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You sure you're not just missing the electrical TCV signal? Haven't researched that valve, but if you're getting more boost than before, maybe the WG is always closed? Which will have disastrous results in short order..
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Turbo not working post manual Swap
hcaznacnud replied to hcaznacnud's topic in Performance Modifications
Found the solution. The turbo tcv should be hooked up in this fashion: 1 - intake 2 - wastegate 3 - compressor NOTE: not sure if the wiring polarity matters. but i got boost with the wiring based off the ipd boost gauge and the above vaccum setup I did this through trial and error until I got boost, and boy did I, my boost actually went over the white gauge. This could be due to the manual swap, with the addition of silicone hoses, and the snabb all metal intercooler. But thanks to anyone who took the time to read the post. -
Ever consider user error?
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Hello, I have just swapped my 96 Volvo 850 with an automatic transmission into a manual with a M56H transmission. The problem im having is that my turbo is not working. I will note that I did make my own TCV valve based off this link, https://www.___.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=63047 , here a MAC solenoid is used. I believe this to be the problem. I have hooked it up two different ways currently 1: this was based off the ipd solenoid 1 - compressor cover 2 - wastegate 3 - intake 2: based off the recommendation of the guy in the link provided 1 - wastegate 2 - compressor cover 3 - intake Neither of these appeared to make a performance difference. When in 3rd gear at about 3500 rpms for both cases the car appeared to have no boost. I will say that the turbo boost gauge on the dash read a very very small amount of boost and I mean only a tiny tiny slither of white on the gauge was visible. I know this is not a very accurate boost gauge but with the automatic my stock boost gauge would go almost to the end of the gauge. Also is it possible that the connector for solenoid be in a specific way, or does it just need power to operate not caring if it has the correct polarity? Other than this the car has a better idle compared to the automatic and the car feels overall in good condition. If anyone could give me insight it would be appreciated.
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Motorcycle Picture Thread
Ol' Dirty Noodle replied to OptimusGlen's topic in Off-topic/Deleted Posts
Yea the superduke is a 1290, I know someone who will sell it to me cheap that's the only reason I'm considering it, while I haven't owned a bike in 10 years I have been riding a decent amount since then, most recently a bobbed out Shadow and a friends old Kawasaki 900, also rode a '17 Busa this past summer 😗 -
Superduke... 10 years off... not trying to go crazy. There's also the 390 Duke, which if it's gonna spend most of it's time in the city might be nice to have such a light nimble bike. FZ1 arguably isn't a true liter bike, despite being 1L. That term is usually for the supersports. FZ1 is more mannered because that's the goal of a bike like that. Still plenty of power but doesn't need to break magazine records at the expense of day to day usage.
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I'm assuming you mean the 690 Duke then, the SuperDuke is a 1290. Surprisingly, for being a liter bike, the FZ1 is extremely refined and manageable.
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Definitely not on and the button indicates "off" but the compressor will not stop until I pull the fuse in the relay box.
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Also, make sure you don't have the front windshield defrost on - or auto switch directed to windshield, it will force the a/c to come on.
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its a 98
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The first step of prepping the body was to actually clean it. 20 years and 240k of grime under here. I used purple power at 100% strength and a few different shapes of scrub brushes, then rinsed with fresh water in a spray bottle. By the end of last night I was dirty, wet, sore, and tired, but it's clean. The left side has been cleaned compared to the right side and very top of the picture which are untouched. And all clean! The dark spots are either surface rust that will get the POR15 treatment, or some residual undercoating. You can also see the gussets I added between the frame rail and subframe mounts I'm not sure why the PO decided to use hot pink spray paint over the area where they cut the floor to access the fuel pump. Probably going to seam seal that area and call it good.
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My first and worst build
Wesdunns70t5m replied to Wesdunns70t5m's topic in Performance Modifications
Thank you for the concern! We hardly got hit here where I'm at, just a days worth of some pretty bad rain is all. The build is still intact, with the motor not being intact haha. There was actually a 1990 760 turbo for sale by me for 700$. It's sitting on a full set of hydra rims with some new tires. I decided to pick that up instead of taking the s70's motor to the machine shop. I plan on getting a solid stage 0 done to it, and once thats done my focus will be back on the whiteblock.
