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What Cylinder Head To Use For Best Performance With 2.3L Block?


lookforjoe

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I know at least the 2000 v70r uses 7mm valve stems instead of the smaller 6mm on the early.

both are sodium filled to my knowledge.

the later solid lifter head flows more stock then my hydraulic lifter head with full gasket match and port and polish. I always hesitate to say flow numbers in CFM because there is so much variance in between flow benches.

on the same flow bench though our solid lifter heads at least in static flow is comparable to your honda k20a2 head, where our head lacks vs the honda is in the cam profiles.

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Yes but i just used a piggy back system with an additional tuning map for the vvt. So didn't use the 555/tip120/boost sensor method.

I may not be as familiar with the VVT on these heads (including dual VVT), but I was under the impression that the VVT was only load dependent once past a certain rpm (generally, where the horsepower and torque curves intersect, the lower range giving the equivalent of running 'NA cam' timing and the higher range 'turbo cam' timing?

Once you do get to dual variable, that does mess things up a hair, so do you focus on just one variable (load), or do you base it on engine speed? Can you (easily) 'tune' the timing based on both?

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As was said, the switch to 6mm stems came on later motors with solid lifters.

Solid lifter cams have a 2mm larger base circle, but solid lifters are a different height. It would be cool to know if they are 2mm shorter and therefore the length of the 6mm and 7mm valves is the same and it therefore would all interchange.

Also the post seemed to suggest that 7mm stems was some sort of upgrade. That's also backwards. You want 6mm stems if you can.

Cam timing needs to be load and RPM dependent. Using only one or the other, I'd use RPM before I used load, but really you need to use both for it to work well.

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Cam timing needs to be load and RPM dependent. Using only one or the other, I'd use RPM before I used load, but really you need to use both for it to work well.

which is why we say fuck it and ditch the cvvt :lol:

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Timely subject, I've been kicking around the option to buy an '01 2.3-T5 engine w/ turbo and manifolds. Obviously I'd swap the intake if stuffing it into an 850. What exactly do I do to the exhaust cam/VVT to get it to use a typical cam sensor style pickup? Ditto the intake cam for a rotor/cap. Engine is coil on plug so not sure what the distributor end looks like.

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Timely subject, I've been kicking around the option to buy an '01 2.3-T5 engine w/ turbo and manifolds. Obviously I'd swap the intake if stuffing it into an 850. What exactly do I do to the exhaust cam/VVT to get it to use a typical cam sensor style pickup? Ditto the intake cam for a rotor/cap. Engine is coil on plug so not sure what the distributor end looks like.

Mounting points still exist since it's still the original white block casting, the only thing you really need to do is drill the cam shaft for the rotor, it's easy enough to do. I just left the VVT unplugged and alone, it doesn't do anything.

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Turbo tuner is coming out with coil on plug support soon too :D

wondering when that was going to happen, thats going to be a real selling point for ALOT of people.

Kenny, what did you block off the solenoids with?

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I wonder how the coil on plug will work - I guess it will use some spare outputs on the Me4 ECU and you'll have to wire them to ignitors or something. Doesn't seem like it would be straightforward to me...

I just made a plate that bolted on where the solenoid used to be.

o ok, wasnt sure if you had some pretty milled piece :P

Using the regular cvvt hub without the use of cvvt wont cause any problems in the long run in theory would it?

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