crc1021 Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 I hit 50 miles today and popped the code again. I disconnected that purple vacuum line and capped it. I disconntected the pump at the clip next to the battery tray. If all of this is correct I am going to pull out the ECU and verify the position of the diode. My pump was turning on prior to doing this which tells me that the relay above the fan was working. Is there a chance that the solenoid is bad. How can I check this? The code that I am throwing is P0410 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted December 7, 2010 Report Share Posted December 7, 2010 I would check the diode, also make sure that the relay works and the solenoid works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crc1021 Posted December 8, 2010 Report Share Posted December 8, 2010 Ok, here is where I am at. I tested the air pump relay by switching it with the main relay, car still started. I have the ECU in front of me right now and I did the diode off of another post that had it running from A32 to B38. I have the direction correct, but should I switch it to the way it is done in this post. The only thing that I do not know how to test is the solenoid. I read a post under the repair section and the instructions are not to clear for me. From what I can see, once these areas are covered I should be in the clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted December 8, 2010 Report Share Posted December 8, 2010 (edited) The A32 to B38 doesnt work, that is activated when the pump signal is set. You want it on the A32 to A37 where is activates when the vacuum solenoid is set. That's your issue, the diode is installed on the wrong pins. So reread this topic... idono how you got it on the B38... Edited December 8, 2010 by binglax09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crc1021 Posted December 10, 2010 Report Share Posted December 10, 2010 I am up to a 100 miles and all is good. I have an sas ok on my reader and no check engine. This was an awsome post. Thank you for all of the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
URO_S60 Posted December 18, 2010 Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 What model/year cars can this mod be done on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted December 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 '96-'98 850's and S/V70's with Motronic 4.4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
O_0 Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 YAYYYYY!!!!! Thank you ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yangotang Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 in california, during smog checks, the smog person checks the sticker under the hood and makes sure that evertyhing is there.... this sticker helped me pass smog: part # 9430401 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
O_0 Posted December 20, 2010 Report Share Posted December 20, 2010 What did that sucker set you back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yangotang Posted December 22, 2010 Report Share Posted December 22, 2010 What did that sucker set you back? maybe $10 my cost? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HtownTurboBrick Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 I threw away my SAS parts like 3 years ago, can someone post pics or a VADIS diagram of the relay and solenoid? I already soldered the diode and reread the thread and realized I need to have those parts connected for this to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted January 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 The solenoid is #18 in the picture PN 1270389. The relay is PN 9442933 and is located in the relay box under the hood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Dastardly Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 This works awesome...did it last week and fully passed emissions today..NO codes and almost Zero emissions at the tailpipe..car runs great...Takes like 5 minutes..most of that time is for the soldering iron to warm up...everyone should do this. I am going to physically remove all the non needed parts next week when i do my turbo back system...Thanks for the great info!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted January 21, 2011 Report Share Posted January 21, 2011 I would so love to delete my SAS system but I fail at soldering. :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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