New To The Volvo Scene....

[Midnightee5]

Hey my name is Tom and I'm glad to be a new part of the community. I'm 20 years old and decided a few months ago to purchase a clean black 95' 850 Turbo off a school teacher for my first "nice" car, everything else I've owned being beat but faithful hondas. So the car has treated me great and I've come to really love it... up until recently. It started out like this...

Flashing orange arrow>check engine light (incorrect gear ratio)>Hard shifts

V

Did a full flush via ATF cooler method>harder shifting>clunking>rumbling

V

Just generally getting worse>Bad slipping>Free revving in gear>Reverse only working occasionally

V

Sitting in my driveway unable to shift into anything other than 1st and 2nd gear.

Now to make matters worse I still owe money on the car and therefore am stuck paying $220/month insurance. I figured it wouldn't hurt to get a loan on it and build my credit a little so instead I blew all the money I had saved up on other stuff, I know I messed up don't shove it in my face.

Good news is I found a local 93' 850 GLT with a 5spd f/s dirt cheap I might try and use to convert mine to a manual, OR I can buy one of two 50-42LE's real great local guy who contacted me thru swedespeed. I've learned a good amount about these cars in the short time I've owned mine and really want this to be a long lasting interest if I can just get past this problem right now, I'm at the point where I just wanna push the car off a cliff so many things have gone bad.

Pics to come shortly, for now here's a dynograph with no mods at all. Oh and I just wanna add that my volvo farts shortly after I leave my driveway so if yours does too, your not alone.

[JBVolvo]

Hey my name is Tom and I'm glad to be a new part of the community. I'm 20 years old and decided a few months ago to purchase a clean black 95' 850 Turbo off a school teacher for my first "nice" car, everything else I've owned being beat but faithful hondas. So the car has treated me great and I've come to really love it... up until recently. It started out like this...

Flashing orange arrow>check engine light (incorrect gear ratio)>Hard shifts

V

Did a full flush via ATF cooler method>harder shifting>clunking>rumbling

V

Just generally getting worse>Bad slipping>Free revving in gear>Reverse only working occasionally

V

Sitting in my driveway unable to shift into anything other than 1st and 2nd gear.

Now to make matters worse I still owe money on the car and therefore am stuck paying $220/month insurance. I figured it wouldn't hurt to get a loan on it and build my credit a little so instead I blew all the money I had saved up on other stuff, I know I messed up don't shove it in my face.

Good news is I found a local 93' 850 GLT with a 5spd f/s dirt cheap I might try and use to convert mine to a manual, OR I can buy one of two 50-42LE's real great local guy who contacted me thru swedespeed. I've learned a good amount about these cars in the short time I've owned mine and really want this to be a long lasting interest if I can just get past this problem right now, I'm at the point where I just wanna push the car off a cliff so many things have gone bad.

Pics to come shortly, for now here's a dynograph with no mods at all. Oh and I just wanna add that my volvo farts shortly after I leave my driveway so if yours does too, your not alone.

My .02....

Find a used or rebuilt transmission like yours and replace it.

[Mike_P]

Have you done any work on the PNP switch? May be worth a shot before you get elbows deep in the transmission...

[Ihatespeedbumps]

Any particles in the old fluid when you changed it? Is the trans fluid level correct? Do you know how to properly check the auto trans fluid?

I say do the 5spd swap just because it's the win.

Edit: You must have one hell of a driving record to pay $220 a month for insurance. I pay $45 for full coverage on my 850 turbo and I am only 22.

[AlvinL]

You have a 95, the last year that Volvo provided a method of self diagnosing trouble codes. Look for codes out of A1 and A2. A1 is for the transmission, A2 is for engine and curious to see if the TCU/ECU is storing type of transmission fault codes. Links below for more info.

[Midnightee5]

Have you done any work on the PNP switch? May be worth a shot before you get elbows deep in the transmission...

I haven't yet because I figure that switch can't possibly be causing it to rumble my cell phone off the center console...idk probably wouldn't be a bad idea since I intend on replacing it anyway.

Any particles in the old fluid when you changed it? Is the trans fluid level correct? Do you know how to properly check the auto trans fluid?

I say do the 5spd swap just because it's the win.

Edit: You must have one hell of a driving record to pay $220 a month for insurance. I pay $45 for full coverage on my 850 turbo and I am only 22.

Not really just very dark and thick. I believe it is correct yes, I let it warm up then I put it in PNRD3L (5secs each) then after leaving it running in park for a minute or two check to make sure the level is in between the hot lines, though one side of the stick is always soaked (I figure from the tube) it appears to give me a proper reading on the other side.

I really wanna do the 5spd swap but I feel like I might be biting off more than I can chew if I go ahead an get that GLT nearby ($1300 obo) for the conversion, plus that will leave me broke so I'll have to part out what I don't need asap.

I do have a slight of a record... 83 in a 55, one at fault accident (person in front of me slammed on their brakes in the rain and had abs...I didn't). Also don't forget we may only be two years apart but when I turn 21 I get a nice drop in my premium.

AlvinL-

You have a 95, the last year that Volvo provided a method of self diagnosing trouble codes. Look for codes out of A1 and A2. A1 is for the transmission, A2 is for engine and curious to see if the TCU/ECU is storing type of transmission fault codes. Links below for more info.

Thanks, thats very helpful.

My hands are frozen now but here's what I got:

A1(Trans)

1-1-4 Open/Short circuit to supply for program selector

3-2-2 Wrong gear value

3-2-3 Slipping lock up

After reseting I heard click click noise somewhere near the trans

A2(Fuel system)

5-1-4 Low speed engine fan faulty

After reseting I heard a long hiss noise followed by a click near front of motor

B1(Climate control)

4-1-4 Driver's side interior temperature sensor inlet fan seized

A5(TCU)

Theres nothing to plug into...

[Midnightee5]

Pnp switch FTW?

[AlvinL]

DTC 114: MODE SELECTOR SWITCH CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION

1) Ensure ignition is off. Using a screwdriver, carefully pry off selector switch from console. Check wires at back of switch for poor terminal contact. Repair as necessary. If terminal contact is okay, check Black ground wire for good terminal contact. Repair as necessary. If Black ground wire is okay, go to next step.

2) Turn ignition on. Connect voltmeter between selector switch Brown/Green and Black wires. If about 11 volts are present, go to step 4). If zero voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is present, check Brown/Green wire for a short circuit to voltage.

3) Check TCM connector for poor terminal contact. Repair as necessary. If TCM connector is okay, check for an open circuit in Brown/Green wire.

4) Connect voltmeter between selector switch Green/Orange and Black wires. If about 11 volts are present, go to step 6). If zero voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is present, check Green/Orange wire for a short circuit to voltage.

5) Check TCM connector for poor terminal contact. Repair as necessary. If TCM connector is okay, check for an open circuit in Green/Orange wire.

6) Turn ignition off. Switch selector to position "S". Connect ohmmeter between Brown/Green and Black wires. Switch selector to position "E". Connect ohmmeter between Green/Orange and Black wires. If ohmmeter does not read zero ohms in both cases, replace driving mode selector module. If ohmmeter reads zero ohms, DTC was set because of poor terminal contact in mode selector connector.

DTC 322/P0730: GEAR RATIO INFORMATION INCORRECT

1) Check transmission oil level. If oil level is low, top off as necessary and check for leaks. Repair as necessary. If oil level is okay, turn ignition on and check DTCs. Test drive vehicle while observing automatic transmission warning light. If light begins to flash note any unusual symptoms in transmission operation or function. If transmission does not show any mechanical fault or malfunction, go to next step. If transmission has a mechanical malfunction and DTC 322 is not reset, repair or replace transmission as necessary.

2) Turn ignition off. Connect measuring unit to TCM. Raise and support front of vehicle. Turn A/C off. Idle engine. Set gear selector to position "D" so front wheels begin to rotate. Increase and keep engine speed at 2000 RPM. Set DVOM to Hz scale, then connect DVOM between measuring unit terminals No. 1 and 2. If DVOM gives a stable Hz reading when engine speed is constant and transmission is not shifting, go to step 5). If Hz frequency reading shows wide

fluctuations, go to next step.

3) Ensure ignition is off. Disconnect TCM. Connect ohmmeter between measuring unit terminals No. 1 and 2. If ohmmeter does not read 300-600 ohms, go to next step. If ohmmeter reads 300-600 ohms, ensure RPM sensor wiring is not located near sources of interference such as electric motors or spark plugs.

4) Disconnect transaxle connector. Check TCM connector for poor terminal contact. Repair as necessary. Reconnect transaxle connector. Connect ohmmeter between measuring unit terminals No. 1 and 2. If ohmmeter reads about 300-600 ohms, DTC was set because of poor contact in transaxle connector. If ohmmeter does not read about 300-600 ohms, replace RPM sensor.

5) Connect DVOM between measuring unit terminals No. 20 and 48. Shift transmission to "D" so front wheels begin to rotate. Increase engine speed to 1800-2000 RPM. If DVOM displays a stable Hz reading when engine speed is constant, go to step 8). If DVOM does not display a stable Hz reading when engine speed is constant, go to next step.

6) Replace VSS. Connect DVOM between measuring unit terminals No. 20 and 48. Shift transmission to "D" so front wheels begin to rotate. Increase engine speed to 1800-2000 RPM. If DVOM displays a stable Hz reading when engine speed is constant, system is okay. If DVOM does not display a stable Hz reading when engine speed is constant, go to next step.

7) Ensure ignition is off. Ensure wiring between VSS and instrument cluster is not located near sources of interference such as electric motors or spark plugs. If wiring is okay, replace instrument cluster. See appropriate INSTRUMENT PANELS article in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT.

8) Ensure ignition is off. Disconnect TCM. Connect ohmmeter between measuring unit terminals No. 20 and 27 (solenoid S1), then between measuring unit terminals No. 20 and 28 (solenoid S2). If ohmmeter reads 10-15 ohms, go to next step. If ohmmeter does not read 10-15 ohms, check transaxle connector for poor terminal contact. Repair as necessary.

9) Ensure ignition is off. Reconnect TCM. Turn ignition on. Set gearshift selector to "D" position. Connect voltmeter between measuring unit terminals No. 5 and 20. If voltmeter reads 0-.5 volt, twist gear position sensor lever/shaft up, down, and to side. If voltage reading remains constant, system is okay. If voltage reading does not remain constant, go to next step.

10) Turn ignition off. Check gear position sensor adjustment. Repair as necessary. See DTC 313: GEAR POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL INCORRECT. If adjustment is okay, replace gear position sensor.

DTC 323: LOCK-UP SLIPS OR IS NOT ENGAGED

1) Turn ignition on. Clear DTCs. Test drive vehicle. If transmission does not show any malfunction, go to next step. If transmission has a mechanical malfunction and DTC 323 is not reset, diagnose mechanical malfunction. If transmission has a mechanical malfunction and DTC 323 is reset, replace transmission.

2) Ensure ignition is on. Connect measuring unit to TCM connector. Connect ohmmeter between measuring unit terminals No. 9 and 20. If ohmmeter reads 10-15 ohms, transmission is probably okay. However, if problem persists, replace transmission. If ohmmeter does not read 10-15 ohms, check TCM connector for poor terminal contact. Repair as necessary.

PNP problem is usually 313 but that is not the case. Good luck troubleshooting.

For A2-514, the two speed engine cooling fan relay is bad.

For B1-514, try blowing out the temperature sensor that's located at the driver's side grab handle. There's a little fan inside that seems to be seized or stuck. Maybe it's just dirt blocking it. You can pop that open to take a look. Be careful you don't damage the sensor poking at it.

[WhiteT5]

3-2-2 is a very very bad code, as is 3-2-3. I would say there's little doubt that it's completely new tranny time.

I take it you're fairly confident in your mechanical skills and have a sufficient number of tools and a place to work on the car. In that case, pull the auto tranny yourself, and have it rebuilt at a transmission shop. It can't cost more than $800 in most cases for a decent build since you're pulling it yourself. Cheaper than buying that GLT for the swap, and much less of a headache.

[D s50r]

i can do that job for you in about 4.5 hours and about 200 $ :)

[Midnightee5]

Ya... I think I'm just gonna go ahead and buy that trans off a swedespeed.com member and get it over with, thanks again for the help. Any thoughts on the dyno results?

[Guest Guest_Midnightee5_*]

Ok so I picked up the local trans and plan on installing it next weekend, hopefully all goes well. On a side note the car still drives around in what feels to be 3rd gear slipping BAD and it is PERMANENTLY STUCK IN DRIVE yep I can drive around town in Neutral OR Reverse whatever I please, just gotta compensate for the fact that it will not roll backwards anymore.

[info2x]

Ok so I picked up the local trans and plan on installing it next weekend, hopefully all goes well. On a side note the car still drives around in what feels to be 3rd gear slipping BAD and it is PERMANENTLY STUCK IN DRIVE yep I can drive around town in Neutral OR Reverse whatever I please, just gotta compensate for the fact that it will not roll backwards anymore.

Align the PNP switch correctly